Greece Travel Guide

By Ferry

Ferries are the most common, cheapest, and generally most "authentic" way to visit the islands, though the slow roll of a ferry can be also be stomach-churning. A wide variety of vessels sail Greek waters -- some huge, sleek, and new, with comfortable TV lounges, discos, and good restaurants; some old and ill-kept, but pleasant enough if you stay on deck.

So-called "Flying Catamarans" and hydrofoils dubbed "Flying Dolphins" also serve many of the major islands. (See below.) Undoubtedly faster, they cost almost twice as much as regular ferries, and their schedules are often interrupted by weather conditions. (Never rely on a tight connection between a hydrofoil and, say, an airplane flight.) Ferries, too, often don't hold exactly to their schedules, but they can be fun if you enjoy opportunities to meet people. Drinks and snacks are almost always sold, but the prices and selection are not that good, so you may want to bring along your own.

The map of Greece offered by the Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT), which indicates the common boat routes, is very useful in planning your sea travels. Once you've learned what is possible, you can turn your attention to what is available. Remember that the summer schedule is the fullest, spring and fall bring reduced service, and winter schedules are skeletal.

There are dozens of shipping companies, each with its own schedule -- which are regulated by the government. Your travel agent might have a copy of the monthly schedule, Greek Travel Pages, or you can search online at www.gtp.gr, www.ferries.gr, or www.allgreekferies.com. When in Greece it's best to go straight to an official information office, a travel agency, or the port authority as soon as you arrive at the place that you intend to leave via ferry.

Photos can give you some idea of the ships, but remember that any photo displayed was probably taken when the ship was new, and it is unlikely that anyone will be able (or willing) to tell you its actual age. The bigger ferries offer greater stability during rough weather. Except in summer, you can usually depend on getting aboard a ferry by showing up about an hour before scheduled departure -- inter-island boats sometimes depart before their scheduled times -- and purchasing a ticket from a dockside agent or aboard the ship itself, though this is often more expensive.

Your best bet is to buy a ticket from an agent ahead of time. In Athens, we recommend Galaxy Travel, 35 Voulis, near Syntagma Square (tel. 210/322-5960; www.galaxytravel.gr); and Alkyon Travel, 97 Akademias, near Kanigos Square (tel. 210/383-2545). During the high season, both agencies keep long hours Monday through Saturday.

Note: Different travel agencies sell tickets to different lines -- this is usually the policy of the line itself -- and one agent might not know or bother to find out what else is offered. However, if you press reputable agencies like those above, they will at least tell you the options. The port authority is the most reliable source of information, and the shipping company itself or its agents usually offer better prices and may have tickets when other agents have exhausted their allotment. It often pays to compare vessels and prices.

First class usually means roomy air-conditioned cabins and its own lounge; on some routes it costs almost as much as flying. However, on longer overnight hauls, you're on a comfortable floating hotel and thus save the cost of lodging. Second class means smaller cabins (which you will probably have to share with strangers) and its own lounge. The tourist-class fare entitles you to a seat on the deck or in a lounge. (Tourists usually head for the deck, while Greeks stay inside, watch TV, and smoke copiously.) Hold onto your ticket; crews conduct ticket-control sweeps.

Note: Those taking a ferry to Turkey from one of the Dodecanese islands must submit passport and payment to an agent the day before departure.

To give you some sense of the fares, here are examples for standard accommodations from Piraeus at press time (compare with airfares during this same time): to Crete (Iraklion), 80€-110€($104-$143); Kos, 55€ ($72); Mitilini (Lesvos), 62€ ($81); Mykonos, 60€ ($78); Rhodes, 95€ ($124); Santorini, 60€ ($78). Don't be surprised if small taxes get added on at the last minute.

Early- and Late-Season Ferries -- In the early and late weeks of the tourist season -- from April to early May, and September to November -- boat service can be unpredictable. Boat schedules, at the best of times, are tentative -- but during this time, they are wish lists, nothing more. Our best advice is that you wait until you get to Greece, then go to a major travel agency and ask for help.

By Hydrofoil

Hydrofoils (often referred to by the principal line's trade name, Flying Dolphins, or by Greeks as to flying) are faster than ferries, and have comfortable airline-style seats. Their stops are much shorter, and they are less likely to cause seasickness (but they are noisy!). They cost somewhat more than ferries, are frequently fully booked in summer, can be quite bumpy during rough weather, and give little or no view of the passing scenery. In short, they're the best choice if your time is limited.

There is regular hydrofoil service to many of the major islands; new routes and new schedules appear often. Longer trips over open sea, such as between Santorini and Iraklion, Crete, may make them well worth the extra expense. (A one-way fare from Heraklion to Santorini in high season, for instance, is 35€-50€/$46-$65.) Smoking is prohibited, and actually less likely to be indulged in, possibly because the cabins seem so much like those of an aircraft. The forward compartment offers better views but is also bumpy.

The Flying Dolphins are now operated by Hellenic Seaways Akti Kondyli and 2 Aitolikou, 18545 Piraeus (tel. 210/419-9000; www.hellenicseaways.gr). The service from Zea Marina in Piraeus to the Saronic Gulf islands and throughout the Sporades is recommended for its speed and regularity. There is also service from Rafina, on the east coast of Attika, to several of the Cyclades islands.

By Sailboat & Yacht

Many more tourists are choosing to explore Greece by sailboat or yacht. There are numerous facilities and options for both. Experienced sailors interested in renting a boat in Greece can contact the Hellenic Professional and Bareboat Yacht Owners' Association, A8-A9 Zea Marina, 18536 Piraeus (tel. 210/452-6335). Less experienced sailors should consider signing up for one of the flotillas -- a group of 12 or more boats sailing as a group led by a boat crewed by experienced sailors; the largest of such organizations is Sunsail, 980 Awald Rd., Annapolis, MD 21403 (tel. 888/350-3568; www.sunsail.com). However, travel agencies should be able to put you in touch with other such outfits.

At the other extreme, those who want to charter a yacht with anything from a basic skipper to a full crew should first contact the Hellenic Professional and Bareboat Yacht Owners' Association (listed above), or Ghiolman Yachts, 4 Filellinon, 10557 Athens (tel. 210/323-0330; www.ghiolman.com). If you feel competent enough to make your own arrangements, contact Valef Yachts Ltd., P.O. Box 385, Ambler, PA 19002 (tel. 800/223-3845; www.valefyachts.com). In Greece, you can contact one of these associations or try a private agency such as Alpha Yachting, 67 Leoforos Possidonos, 16674 Glyfada (tel. 210/968-0486; www.alphayachting.com).