France Travel Guide

By Train

The world's fastest trains link some 50 French cities, allowing you to get from Paris to just about anywhere else in the country in hours. With 39,000km (24,200 miles) of track and about 3,000 stations, SNCF (French National Railroads) is fabled for its on-time performance. You can travel in first or second class by day and in couchette by night. Many trains have dining facilities.

Information -- If you plan to travel a lot on European railroads, get the latest copy of the Thomas Cook Timetable of European Passenger Railroads. This 500-plus-page book documents all of Europe's main passenger rail services with detail and accuracy. It's available online at www.thomascookpublishing.com.

In the United States: For more information and to purchase rail passes before you leave, contact Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL; www.raileurope.com).

In Canada: Call Rail Europe at tel. 800/361-RAIL.

In London: SNCF has offices at Rail Europe, 179 Piccadilly, London W1V 0BA (tel. 0870/584-8848).

In Paris: For information or reservations, go online (www.sncf.fr). You can also go to any local travel agency. A simpler way to buy tickets is to use the billetterie (ticket machine) in every train station. If you know your PIN, you can use a credit card to buy your ticket.

France Rail Passes -- Working cooperatively with SNCF, Air Inter Europe, and Avis, Rail Europe offers three flexible rail passes to North Americans that can reduce travel costs considerably.

The France Railpass provides unlimited rail transport in France for any 3 days within 1 month, at 198€ ($261) in first class and 169€ ($222) in second. You can purchase up to 6 more days for an extra 29€ ($38) per person per day. Children 4 to 11 travel for half-price.

The France Rail 'n' Drive Pass, available only in North America, combines good value on both rail travel and Avis car rentals. It is best used by arriving at a major rail depot and then striking out to explore the countryside by car. It includes the France Railpass and use of a rental car. A 2-day rail pass (first class) and 2 days' use of the cheapest rental car (with unlimited mileage) is $356 per person. The best deal if you're traveling in France with a friend -- or even 3 or 4 friends -- is the France Saverpass, granting 3 days of unlimited travel in a 1-month period. The cost is $223 per person first class or $191 second class. There's also a France Youthpass for travelers 25 or under, granting 4 days of unlimited train travel within a month. The cost is $194 in first class or $164 in second class. For those over 60, the France Senior Pass offers all the same features as the France Railpass, but with a savings. You get 3 days of unlimited train travel in 1 month for $238, with additional rail days costing only $34. Travel days may be used consecutively or non-consecutively.

A France Rail Day Pass allows you to take day trips from Paris to such cities as Lyon, Reims, Dijon, or Nantes. The cost is $129 in first class or $90 in second class. The pass grants you 1 day of unlimited travel in a 1-month period on the national rail network.

Eurailpass -- The Eurailpass permits unlimited first-class rail travel in any country in western Europe except the British Isles (good in Ireland). Passes are available for purchase online (www.eurail.com) and at various offices/agents around the world. Travel agents and railway agents in such cities as New York, Montreal, and Los Angeles sell Eurailpasses. You can purchase them at the North American offices of CIT Travel Service, the French National Railroads, the German Federal Railroads, and the Swiss Federal Railways. It is strongly recommended that you purchase passes before you leave home as not all passes are available in Europe; also, passes purchased in Europe will cost about 20% more. Numerous options are available for travel in France.

The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 18 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are $635 for 15 days, $829 for 21 days, $1,025 for 1 month, $1,449 for 2 months, and $1,789 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 18 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs $539 for 5 days, $699 for 21 days, $869 for 1 month, $1,229 for 2 months, and $1,519 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs $415 for 15 days, $539 for 21 days, $669 for 1 month, $945 for 2 months, and $1,165 for 3 months.

Eurail Selectpass: The pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: for 5 days in 2 months you pay $405 for three countries.

Have a Seat -- Remember that a train ticket does not guarantee you a seat; it merely gets you from one place to another. On crowded trains and during busy times, you'll have to make a seat reservation (and pay for the privilege) if you want to be sure of sitting somewhere other than on top of your luggage. Seat reservations cost 10€ ($13) per person.

By Car

The most charming châteaux and country hotels always seem to lie away from the main cities and train stations. Renting a car is often the best way to travel around France, especially if you plan to explore it in-depth.

But Europe's rail networks are so well developed and inexpensive that we recommend you rent a car only for exploring areas little serviced by rail, such as Brittany, rural Burgundy, and the Dordogne. Or take trains between cities and rent a car on the days when you want to explore independently.

Driving time in Europe is largely a matter of conjecture, urgency, and how much sightseeing you do along the way. Driving time from Paris to Geneva is 5 1/2 hours minimum. It's 2 1/2 hours from Paris to Rouen, 3 1/2 hours to Nantes, and 4 hours to Lyon. The driving time from Marseille to Paris (771km/479 miles) is a matter of national pride, and tall tales abound about how rapidly the French can do it. Flooring it, you may conceivably get there in 7 hours, but we always make a 2-day journey of it.

Rentals -- To rent a car, you'll need to present a passport, a driver's license, and a credit card. You also have to meet the company's minimum-age requirement. (For the least expensive cars, this is 21 at Hertz, 23 at Avis, and 25 at Budget. More expensive cars may require that you be at least 25.) It usually isn't obligatory within France, but certain companies have asked for the presentation of an International Driver's License, even though this is becoming increasingly superfluous in western Europe.

Note: The best deal is usually a weekly rental with unlimited mileage. All car-rental bills in France are subject to a 19.6% government tax. Though the rental company won't usually mind if you drive your car into, say, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, or Spain, it's often forbidden to transport your car by ferry, including across the Channel to England.

In France, collision damage waiver (CDW) is usually factored into the overall rate quoted, but you should always verify this, of course, before taking a car on the road. At most companies, the CDW provision won't protect you against theft, so if this is the case, ask about purchasing extra theft protection.

Automatic transmission is a luxury in Europe, so if you want it, you'll pay dearly.

Budget (tel. 800/472-3325 in the U.S., 800/268-8900 in Canada; www.budget.com) has about 30 locations in Paris and at Orly (tel. 01-49-75-56-05) and Charles de Gaulle (tel. 01-48-62-70-22). For rentals of more than 7 days, you can usually pick up a car in one French city and drop it off in another, but there are extra charges. Drop-offs in cities within an easy drive of the French border (including Geneva and Frankfurt) incur no extra charge; you can arrange drop-offs in other non-French cities for a reasonable surcharge.

Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S. and Canada; www.hertz.com) maintains about 15 locations in Paris, including offices at the city's airports. The main office is at 27 place St-Ferdinand, 17e (tel. 01-39-38-38-38; Métro: Argentine). Be sure to ask about promotional discounts.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1084 in the U.S. and Canada; www.avis.com) has offices at both Paris airports and an inner-city headquarters at 5 rue Bixio, 7e (tel. 01-44-18-10-50; Métro: Ecole Militaire), near the Eiffel Tower.

National (tel. 800/CAR-RENT in the U.S. and Canada; www.nationalcar.com) is represented in Paris by Europcar, one office is at 48 rue de Berri, 8e (tel. 01-53-93-73-40; Métro: St. Philippe du Roule). It has offices at both Paris airports and at about a dozen other locations. For the lowest rates, reserve in advance from North America.

Two U.S.-based agencies that don't have Paris offices but act as booking agents for Paris-based agencies are Kemwel Drive Europe (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) and Auto Europe (tel. 800/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com). They can make bookings in the United States only, so call before your trip.

Gasoline -- Known in France as essence, gas is expensive for those accustomed to North American prices. All but the least expensive cars usually require an octane rating that the French classify as essence super, the most expensive variety. Depending on your car, you'll need either leaded (avec plomb) or unleaded (sans plomb).

Beware the mixture of gasoline and oil, called mélange or gasoil, sold in some rural communities; this mixture is for very old two-cycle engines.

Note: Sometimes you can drive for miles in rural France without encountering a gas station; don't let your tank get dangerously low.

Driving Rules -- Everyone in the car, in both the front and the back seats, must wear seat belts. Children under 12 must ride in the back seat. Drivers are supposed to yield to the car on their right, except where signs indicate otherwise, as at traffic circles.

If you violate the speed limit, expect a big fine. Limits are about 130kmph (81 mph) on expressways, about 100kmph (62 mph) on major national highways, and 90kmph (56 mph) on country roads. In towns, don't exceed 60kmph (37 mph).

Note: It's illegal to use a cellphone while you're driving in France; you will be ticketed if you're stopped.

Maps -- For France as a whole, most motorists opt for Michelin map 989. For regions, Michelin publishes a series of yellow maps that are quite good. Big travel-book stores in North America carry these maps, and they're commonly available in France (at lower prices). In this age of congested traffic, one useful feature of the Michelin map is its designations of alternative routes de dégagement, which let you skirt big cities and avoid traffic-clogged highways.

Breakdowns/Assistance -- A breakdown is called une panne in France. Call the police at tel. 17 anywhere in France to be put in touch with the nearest garage. Most local garages offer towing. If the breakdown occurs on an expressway, find the nearest roadside emergency phone box, pick up the phone, and put a call through. You'll be connected to the nearest breakdown service facility.

By Plane

France has few domestic competitors. Air France (tel. 800/237-2747; www.airfrance.com) is the 800-pound gorilla, serving about eight cities in France and eight others in Europe. Air travel time from Paris to almost anywhere in France is about an hour.