Krakow Travel Guide

Getting There

By Plane -- John Paul II International Airport (tel. 012/639-30-00; www.lotnisko-balice.pl) is located in the suburb of Balice, about 10km (6 miles) from town. The airport is easily reachable by bus or taxi. Radtur (tel. 012/423-5499; www.radtur.pl) operates a shuttle in summer between the airport and the bus station for 7 z ($2.30/£1.20) each way. The shuttle runs each way about once an hour between 10am and 8pm. For a taxi, expect to pay about 50 z-60 z ($20/£11) for a ride into town.

By Train -- Kraków's main train station, the Dworzec Gówny (pl. Kolejowy; tel. 012/393-11-11; www.pkp.Kraków.pl) is about 20 minutes' walk from the center of the city. Kraków is well served by rail and departures for Warsaw and other major cities are frequent. The rail distance from Warsaw is about 5 hours. Note that travel to international destinations like Prague often require you to change trains in Katowice.

By Bus -- Kraków's newly opened central bus station (ul. Bosacka) is located just behind the main train station and is an easy walk or relatively cheap taxi ride to the center of town.

By Car -- Kraków lies on the main east-west highway, the A4, running through southern Poland. It's nearly a straight 3-hour shot on mostly four-lane highway from the German border, through the cities of Wrocaw and Katowice. You'll have to pay a toll of 6 z from Katowice, but for the speed and convenience (compared to other roads in Poland) it's a bargain at twice the price. From other directions, including from Warsaw or points south, you'll have to contend with much smaller roads and longer drive times. Once in Kraków, stow the car since it's unlikely to help you navigate the city's small, tram-clogged roads.

City Layout

Kraków's Old Town is relatively compact and comprised of the main square (Rynek Gówny) and the streets that radiate from it in all directions (bordered by what remains of the medieval town walls and the circular park, the Planty). Most of the main tourist sites are situated within a 10- or 15-minute walk from the square.

The Wawel castle district comprises a second major tourist destination and is a 10-minute walk south of the main square, following Grodzka street.

The former Jewish ghetto of Kazimierz lies about a 20-minute walk south of the main square beyond the castle. To save time, it's possible to take a taxi from the Old Town to Kazimierz. Expect to pay about 15 z ($5/£2.60). A number of trams also make the run between the two.

Getting Around

On Foot -- Much of Kraków is closed to traffic, so walking is often the only option. Distances are manageable.

By Tram -- Kraków is well served by a comprehensive tram network, and this is a quick and easy way to reach more far-flung destinations. Try to avoid tram travel at rush hour unless you enjoy getting pressed up against the doors like you're in the Tokyo subway. A ticket costs 2.50 z (80¢/45p) and can be bought at newspaper kiosks around town. Validate your ticket on entering the tram and hold onto it until the end of the ride.

By Bus -- Like trams, buses ply Kraków's streets from early morning until after 11pm or so and are a vital part of the city's transit network. You probably won't need to use the buses unless your hotel is well outside the city center. A ticket costs 2.50 z (80¢/45p) and can be bought at newspaper kiosks around town. Validate your ticket on entering the tram and hold onto it until the end of the ride.

By Taxi -- Taxis are relatively cheap and a dependable means of getting around. You can hail taxis on the street or at special taxi stands around town. The fare for a typical hop, such as from the Old Town to Kazimierz, will average 15 z to 20 z ($5-$6.80/£2.60-£3.60).

By Bike -- Biking is becoming increasingly popular, and there are now bike lanes scattered around town, including a nice run along the Vistula river and through the park, the Planty, that rings the main square. That said, biking is a better bet for an hour or two of sightseeing rather than as a practical means for getting around. Kraków Bike Tours (tel. 0663/731-515) offers fun and instructional 2-hour bike tours in season in the afternoons and evenings.

Visitor Info

The city of Kraków maintains an extensive and helpful network of tourist information offices around town in all of the tourist hot spots, including an office in the former Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. Here you'll find some excellent brochures, including one called the Tourist Information Compendium and another Two Days in Kraków. They also have excellent free maps, a wealth of suggestions, and can help find and book hotel rooms. Note that the Kazimierz office is (inexplicably) closed on weekends. The main offices are located at the following addresses:

Town Hall Tower (Main Square) (tel. 012/433-73-10; daily 9am-7pm)

Sw. Jana 2 (Old Town) (tel. 012/421-77-87; Mon-Sat 10am-6pm)

John Paul II International Airport (tel. 012/285-53-41; daily 10am-6pm)

Szpitalna 25 (Old Town) (tel. 012/432-01-10; Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-5pm)

Józefa 7 (Kazimierz) (tel. 012/422-04-71; Mon-Fri 10am-4pm)