Austria Travel Guide

Driving, of course, is the best way to crisscross Austria, going up and down its scenic mountain valleys and along its vast mountain passes. It's one of the greatest countries in the world for scenery. That applies only to the summer months. Driving conditions in Austria can be difficult in winter.

Renting a car is not the most economical way to see the country; by train or bus is cheaper.

Some mountain roads require a toll. The good news is that there is almost no delay at border crossings. Motorists zip casually -- say, between Germany and Austria -- but in the wake of worldwide terrorism, conditions could often change at a moment's notice for reasons you will not be aware of.

All main roads in Austria are hard-surfaced. There's a four-lane Autobahn between Salzburg and Vienna, and between Vienna and Edlitz, the Autobahn has six lanes. Part of the highway system includes mountain roads, and in the alpine region drivers face gradients of 6% to 16%, or even steeper in some places. When driving in Austria, always plot your course carefully. If you have had no experience in mountain driving -- much less alpine mountain driving -- you might want to take a train or a bus to get to some of the loftier mountain alpine retreats.

In summer, driving conditions are good, but in winter, December through March, motorists must reckon with snow on the roads and passes at higher altitudes. Roads at altitudes of up to 1,700m (5,577 ft.) are kept open in winter, although they can be temporarily closed because of heavy snowfall or avalanche danger. If you're planning to drive in Austria in winter, you'll need snow tires or chains.

Don't take chances. Ask about road conditions before you start on a trip. This information is available in English 7 days a week from 6am to 8pm from the Österreichischer Automobil-, Motorrad- und Touringclub (ÖAMTC), Schubertring 1-3, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 0810/120-120; www.oeamtc.at).

Car Rentals -- All drivers in Austria must have been in possession of a valid driver's license for at least 1 year before renting a vehicle. They must also present a valid passport when they sign the rental agreement. Drivers not in possession of a major credit card must pay in advance a minimum deposit, plus the estimated rental cost and the estimated tax. Cars rented from most rental companies can be dropped off in major cities of Germany for no additional charge. Drop-offs in Switzerland or Italy, however, require an extra charge, which can be quite high.

Tax on Car Rentals -- Be aware that car rentals in Austria are taxed at a whopping rate of 21.2%. This is in addition to a 15% municipal airport tax added to the cost of any car rented at an airport. Clarify in advance whether the rates you're quoted include the taxes. You might consider taking a taxi to your hotel upon arrival and then renting your vehicle from an inner-city location to avoid the 15% airport surcharge.

When you reserve a car, be sure to ask if the price includes insurance. The rental outfits offer an optional insurance policy known as a loss-damage waiver (LDW). If you accept it, you'll be charged around 25€ ($33) per day. It allows you to waive all financial responsibility for any damage to your car, even if it's eventually determined that you were the driver at fault. In some instances, certain credit card companies offer free insurance if you use the card to pay for the rental. Check directly with your credit card issuer to see if you are covered.

Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com) is among the least expensive options in Austria. It maintains more than a dozen locations throughout the country, including branches at all the major airports and at downtown locations in most of the provincial capitals.

Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com) maintains offices in about 18 cities throughout Austria. During limited periods, it sometimes publicizes price promotions worth inquiring about, depending on the season, as well as discounts to employees of some large North American corporations.

Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; www.avis.com) operates offices in 19 Austrian cities, at airports and downtown, as well as at some of the country's larger ski resorts. Avis usually offers 10% discounts for members of such organizations as AAA and AARP. Like Budget and Hertz, it offers seasonal price promotions.

Kemwel Drive Europe (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) has offices in about 10 cities throughout Asia.

AutoEurope (tel. 888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com) operates 12 offices in Austrian cities as well as airports.

Road Maps -- Some of the most useful maps for touring the countryside include Michelin's Austria (no. 426) and Freytag & Berndt's Autokarte Austria. Even more detailed is Freytag & Berndt's Grosse Strassen Karten, which covers Austria in three separate breakdowns, with the enlargement of certain regions of Land Salzburg available on a fourth. Some visitors find it more convenient to buy these same four maps in the form of the 12-page atlas, Grosser Auto Atlas Österreich. It includes helpful blowups of the centers of many of the country's large- and medium-size cities.

Freytag & Berndt also publish detailed maps (in either atlas or foldaway form) of Greater Vienna. Maps of Vienna's public transport system are available from the city's tourist offices.

Hill-climbers and trekkers appreciate Freytag & Berndt's detailed topographical maps known as the Wanderkarten (W.K.). The company also publishes canoeing maps of specific regions, including the Carinthian lakes.

Most of the maps mentioned above are available in bookstores throughout Austria and in larger bookstores in the rest of Europe and North America. Freytag & Berndt's shops are at Kohlmarkt 9 in Vienna, and at Wilhelm-Greil-Strasse 15 in Innsbruck.

If you'd like a map before your trip to plan your itinerary, you can obtain one from Rand McNally, Michelin, or AAA. These are sold at bookstores all over America. Rand McNally has retail stores at 595 Market St., San Francisco, CA 94105 (tel. 415/777-3131; www.randmcnally.com), and at many other outlets. The U.S. headquarters of Michelin is at P.O. Box 19008, Greenville, SC 29602 (tel. 800/423-0485).

AAA (the American Automobile Association; tel. 212/757-2000 or 800/222-1134; www.aaa.com) publishes a regional map of Austria that's available free to members at most AAA offices throughout the United States.

Gasoline -- Regular-grade unleaded (blei-frei) motor fuel is generally available in Austria. Gasoline prices vary from place to place but are generally lower at discounted gasoline stations or self-service operations. Austrian service stations don't accept U.S. oil company or general-purpose credit or charge cards.

Driving Rules -- Traffic regulations are similar to those in other European countries where you drive on the right. The speed limit is 50kmph (31 mph) in built-up areas within the city limits unless otherwise specified. Out of town, the limit is 130kmph (80 mph) on motorways and 100kmph (62 mph) on all other roads.

Driving under the influence of alcohol is severely punished. The permissible blood-alcohol level is very low -- two beers or 8 ounces of wine can put you over the mark. The minimum fine is 350€ ($455) and possible loss of a driver's license.

The minimum driving age in Austria is 18. If you're over 18 and have a valid U.S., Canadian, or British license, you're not required to have an International Driver's License. However, you should inquire at your travel agency, an Austrian consulate, or an Austrian National Tourist Office about official validation of your home driver's license for use in Austria.

Use of seat belts is compulsory, and children under 12 may not sit in the front passenger seat unless a child's seat belt or a special seat has been installed. The use of hand-held cellphones is prohibited while driving, and right turn on red is not permitted. Effective in late 2005, headlights must be on at all times day or night.

If you're involved in or witness an accident resulting in bodily injury, you must report it immediately. If only property damage is involved, you may exchange identification with the other person. If you can't find the owner of a vehicle you might have damaged, you must report the incident to the police. Otherwise, you might be considered a hit-and-run driver.

Parking -- A number of Austrian cities and towns have restricted parking zones, where you can park for 90 minutes in specially marked "blue zones," so-called because of blue lines on the road.

In Vienna, Graz, Linz, Klagenfurt, Innsbruck, and other major towns, you must use a parking voucher to stop in limited-parking zones. You must purchase a voucher and then, when you park, write in the time you arrived and display it on the dashboard inside the windshield. You can buy vouchers at banks, gas stations, or tobacconists.

Parked vehicles that are obstructing traffic are quickly towed away at the owner's or driver's expense.

Out at country resorts, parking is not a problem -- except in winter, when you might have to pay extra for indoor or covered parking. However, in Austria's congested cities, such as Vienna, parking is a real problem. If your hotel doesn't have a private garage, the police will usually let you park in front of a hotel long enough to unload your luggage; then someone from the hotel staff will direct you to the nearest garage, often in the same neighborhood.

Automobile Clubs -- The leading auto club of Austria is the ÖAMTC (Österreichischer Automobil-, Motorred- und Touringclub), Schubertring 1-3, A-1010 Vienna (tel. 01/711997; www.oeamtc.at), which works in association with AAA. ARBÖ (tel. 0810/120-120; www.arboe.or.at) is another.

Breakdowns/Assistance -- If your car breaks down, foreign motorists can call the two auto clubs mentioned above. Call ARBÖ (tel. 123) or ÖAMTC (tel. 120) anywhere in Austria. You don't need to use an area code for either number. However, if you're not a member of either of these clubs, you'll pay for emergency road service.

Motorcycles -- The same requirements for operating cars in Austria hold for operating motorcycles. Both drivers and passengers of motorcycles must wear crash helmets. Lights must be kept on when the vehicle is being driven.