Machu Picchu Travel Guide

Getting There

If you were hoping to soar over the Andes to Machu Picchu in a helicopter, you're out of luck: All flights have been suspended indefinitely.

By Train -- The 112km (70-mile) train from Cusco to Machu Picchu is a truly spectacular journey. It zigzags up Huayna Picchu and then through lush valleys hugging the Río Urubamba, with views of snowcapped Andes peaks in the distance. There are three tourist trains from Cusco to Machu Picchu, taking less than 4 hours: the Backpacker, the slowest and least expensive ($68 round-trip; $44 one-way); the Vistadome, the faster first-class service ($105 round-trip; $62 one-way); and the top-of-the-line and very pricey luxury line Hiram Bingham, named after the discoverer of Machu Picchu ($495 round-trip only, including 2 meals, cocktails, and a guided tour at the ruins).

The tourist trains, all of which now belong to Orient-Express/PeruRail, depart from Cusco's Estación San Pedro on Calle Cascaparo; it's open Monday through Friday from 5am to 3pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 5am to 12:30pm. Hiram Bingham trains depart from Estación Poroy, a 15-minute drive from Cusco, 6 days a week in high season (Apr-Oct) and 4 days a week in low season (Nov-Mar). Tickets for trains can also be purchased at Estación Huanchac on Avenida Pachacútec; it's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 8:30am to 12:30pm. The Backpacker departs Cusco at 6:15am and arrives in Aguas Calientes at 10:15am (returning at 3:55pm and arriving in Cusco at 8:20pm); the Vistadome leaves twice daily, at 6am and 7am, and arrives at 9:40am and 11am, respectively (returning at 3:30pm and 5pm and arriving in Cusco at 7:20pm and 9:25pm); and the Hiram Bingham sets out at 9am and arrives at 12:30pm (returning at 6pm and arriving in Cusco at 9:25pm). Tip: For the best views on the way to Machu Picchu, sit on the left side of the train.

Travelers already based in the Urubamba Valley can go to Machu Picchu by the Sacred Valley Railway. The journey takes 2 hours and 20 minutes from Urubamba, and about 90 minutes from Ollantaytambo. Vistadome service originates in Urubamba (departing at 6:10am) and Ollantaytambo (departing at 7am, 10:30am, and 2:55pm); Backpacker service originates in Ollantaytambo (departing at 9:25am). Returning to Ollanta, Vistadome trains leave at 8:35am, noon, and 4:45pm; the Backpacker train departs Machu Picchu Pueblo at 5pm. The trip costs $71.50 in Vistadome class ($43 one-way) and $53 in Backpacker round-trip (one-way service not available).

Train schedules and fares change frequently, so check www.perurail.com or the tourist information office in Cusco before purchasing train tickets. It's wise to make your reservation at least a day (or more) in advance, especially in high season. For the luxury Hiram Bingham service, reservations several weeks or more in advance are recommended.

Estación Machu Picchu Pueblo, the train station in Aguas Calientes, is on the river side of the tracks, just beyond the market stalls of Avenida Imperio de los Incas. Porters from Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel and other inns greet the trains upon arrival each morning.

Train Schedules to Machu Picchu -- Train schedules have changed with alarming frequency in the past few years, according to season and, it seems, the whims of some scheduler. It would be smart to verify hours and fares at your hotel (if you're staying in one of the better ones with good service and informed personnel), the Tourist Information Office in Cusco, or on the PeruRail website (www.perurail.com).

By Bus -- You can't travel from Cusco to Machu Picchu by bus, but unless you walk the Inca Trail -- or ascend the slope to the ruins from the town of Aguas Calientes by foot -- you will have to take one of the frequent shuttle buses that leave from down by the railroad tracks. The buses wend their way up the mountain, performing exaggerated switchbacks for 15 minutes before suddenly depositing passengers at the entrance to the ruins. The cost is $12 round-trip. There's no need to reserve in advance; just purchase your ticket at the little booth in front of the lineup of buses, at the bottom of the market stalls. Buses begin running at 6:30am and come down all day, with the last one descending at dusk. Some people choose to purchase a one-way ticket ($6) up and walk down (30-45 min.) to Aguas Calientes.

By Foot -- The celebrated Inca Trail (Camino del Inca, or Camino Real) is almost as famous as the ruins themselves, and the trek is rightly viewed as an attraction in itself rather than merely a means of getting to Machu Picchu under your own power. There are two principal treks: one that takes 4 days (43km/27 miles) and another shorter and less demanding route that lasts just 2 days. The trails begin outside Ollantaytambo (at Km 82 of the Cusco-Machu Picchu railroad track); you can return to Cusco or Ollantaytambo by train. Many new regulations have been introduced in the past couple of years.

For those who take the train to Aguas Calientes but still want a small dose of what it's like to walk to Machu Picchu, it's straightforward (if a little difficult) to walk up to the ruins from town up a steep path that cuts across the switchback road. It takes a little over an hour to make it up and about 45 minutes to descend. Because you'll probably want to save your energy for exploring Machu Picchu, if you are fit and want to walk at least one way, I recommend walking down from the ruins (which is still pretty strenuous on one's knees).

One-Stop Package Visits to Machu Picchu -- Machu Picchu packages that include round-trip train fare between Cusco and Aguas Calientes, shuttle bus and admission to the ruins, a guided visit, and sometimes lunch at Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge for same-day visits can be purchased from travel agencies in Cusco. Package deals generally start at around $110; it's worth shopping around for the best deal. Try Milla Turismo, Portal Comercio 195 (Plaza de Armas; tel. 084/234-181; www.millaturismo.com); SAS Travel, Portal Panes 167, Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/255-205; www.sastravelperu.com); Chaska Tours, Calle Garcilaso 265 2nd fl #6, Cusco(tel. 084/240-424; www.chaskatours.com); Top Vacations, Portal Confituria 265, Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/263-278), or any of the tour agencies listed later in this section that organize Inca Trail treks. Packages that include overnight accommodations at the ruins or in Aguas Calientes can also be arranged.

Visitor Information

Aguas Calientes has an iPerú office, Av. Pachacútec, cdra. 1 s/n (tel. 084/211-104), about one-third of the way up the main drag in town. It has photocopies of town maps and some basic hotel and Machu Picchu information.

Fast Facts -- There are no banks in Aguas Calientes. To exchange money (cash or traveler's checks), try Gringo Bill's Hostal at Colla Raymi 104, just off the main square. Shops and restaurants along the two main streets, Avenida Imperio de los Incas and Avenida Pachacútec, buy dollars from gringos in need at standard exchange rates.

You'll find the police on Avenida Imperio de los Incas, down from the railway station (tel. 084/211-178).

There are Internet cabinas at the Café Internet (no phone) on Avenida Imperio de los Incas, a block away from the main square on the railroad tracks, and at a couple of places on the Plaza de Armas. Gringo Bill's Hostal (tel. 084/211-046), on Colla Raymi 104, also has Internet access. There's a post office on the corner of Manco Cápac at Avenida Imperio de los Incas. The Telefónica del Perú office (no phone) is at Av. Imperio de los Incas 132.