Oceania Travel Guide

Because all but a few South Pacific islands are surrounded by coral reefs, there are few surf beaches in the region. Tahiti has a few, but they all have heat-absorbing black volcanic sand. Otherwise, most islands (and all but a few resorts) have bathtublike lagoons that lap on coral sands draped by coconut palms. Fortunately for the environmentalists among us, some of the most spectacular beaches are on remote islands and are protected from development by the islanders' devotion to their cultures and villages' land rights. Here are a few that stand out from the many.

Yasawa Island (Fiji): One of the most spectacular beaches I've ever seen is on Yasawa Island, northernmost of the gorgeous chain of the same name. This long expanse of deep sand is broken by a teapotlike rock outcrop, which also separates two Fijian villages, whose residents own this land. Blue Lagoon Cruises and oceangoing cruise ships stop here; otherwise, the Fijians keep it all to themselves. There are other good beaches on Yasawa, however, and two of them are at Yasawa Island Resort and Oarsman's Bay Lodge.

Vatulele Island Resort Beach (Vatulele Island, Fiji): Nearly a kilometer (1/2 mile) of deep white sand fronts the deluxe Vatulele Island Resort, off the south shore of Viti Levu, Fiji's main island. Guests can have dinner out on the beach or get a bird's-eye view from a private gazebo overlooking the sands.

Natadola Beach (The Coral Coast, Fiji): Fiji's main island of Viti Levu doesn't have the high-quality beaches found on the country's small islands, but Natadola is an exception. Until recently this long stretch was spared development, but a big resort is coming.

Horseshoe Bay (Matagi Island, Fiji): Home of one of the region's best-value resorts, Matagi is an extinct volcano whose crater fell away on one side and formed picturesque Horseshoe Bay. The half-moon beach at its head is one of the finest in the islands, but you will have to be on a yacht or a guest at Matangi Island Resort to enjoy it.

Temae Plage Publique (Moorea, French Polynesia): The northeastern coast of Moorea is fringed by a nearly uninterrupted stretch of white-sand beach which commands a glorious view across a speckled lagoon to Tahiti sitting on the horizon across the Sea of the Moon.

Matira Beach (Bora Bora, French Polynesia): Beginning at the Hotel Bora Bora, this fine ribbon of sand stretches around skinny Matira Point, which forms the island's southern extremity, all the way to the Club Med. The eastern side has views of the islands of Raiatea and Tahaa.

Avea Beach (Huahine, French Polynesia): My favorite resort beach is at Relais Mahana, a small hotel on Auea Bay near Huahine's southern end. Trees grow along the white beach, which slopes into a lagoon deep enough for swimming at any tide. The resort's pier goes out to a giant coral head, a perfect and safe place to snorkel, and the lagoon here is protected from the trade winds, making it safe for sailing.

Titikaveka Beach (Rarotonga, Cook Islands): On Rarotonga's southern coast, Titikaveka is blessed with palm trees draped over a long beach of brilliant white sand, and the lagoon here is the island's best for swimming and snorkeling.

Beach on One Foot Island (Aitutaki, Cook Islands): The sands on the islets surrounding Aitutaki gleam pure white, like talcum. Tiny One Foot Island has the best beach here, with part of it along a channel whose coral bottom is scoured clean by strong tidal currents. Another stretch runs out to a sandbar known as Nude Island -- a reference not to clothes but to a lack of vegetation.

Lalomanu Beach (Upolu, Samoa): In the Aleipata district on the eastern end of Upolu, a clifflike mountain forms a dramatic backdrop to the deep sands of Lolomanu Beach, which faces a group of small islets offshore. On a clear day you can see American Samoa from here. This is a great place to stay in an open-air "beach fale."

Return to Paradise Beach (Upolu, Samoa): This idyllic stretch of white sand and black rocks overhung by coconut palms gets its name from Return to Paradise, the 1953 Gary Cooper movie that was filmed here. Surf actually pounds on the rocks.

Manase Beach (Savai'i, Samoa): The long stretch of white sand fronting Manase village on the north shore of Savai'i is another great place to spend a night in an open-air beach fale.