Australia Travel Guide

Australia's roads sometimes leave a bit to be desired. The taxes of 19 million people get spread pretty thin when it comes to maintaining roads across a continent. Most highways are two-lane affairs with the occasional rut and pothole, often no outside line markings, and sometimes no shoulders to speak of.

When you are poring over the map of Australia, remember that what looks like a road may be an unsealed (unpaved) track suitable for four-wheel-drive vehicles only. Many roads in the Top End are passable only in the Dry season (about Apr-Nov). If you plan long-distance driving, get a road map that marks paved and unpaved roads.

You cannot drive across the middle of the country (except along the north-south Stuart Hwy. linking Adelaide and Darwin) because most of it is desert. In most places you must travel around the edge on Highway 1. The map inside the back cover of this book marks the major highways.

You can use your current driver's license or an international driver's permit in every state of Australia. By law, you must carry your license with you when driving. The minimum driving age is 16 or 17, depending on which state you visit, but some car-rental companies require you to be 21, or sometimes 26, if you want to rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Car Rentals

Think twice about renting a car in tourist hot spots such as Cairns. In these areas most tour operators pick you up and drop you back at your hotel door, so having a car may not be worth the expense.

The "big four" car-rental companies all have networks across Australia:

• Avis (tel. 13 63 33 in Australia, www.avis.com.au; 800/230-4898 in the U.S. and Canada, www.avis.com; 8445/81 81 81 in the U.K., www.avis.co.uk; 214/281 111 in Ireland; 0800/655 111 in New Zealand, www.avis.co.nz).

• Budget (tel. 1300/362 848 in Australia, www.budget.com.au; 800/472-3325 in the U.S., www.budget.com; 800/268-8900 in Canada, www.budget.ca; 8701-565656 in the U.K., www.budget-uk.com; 090/6627-711 in Ireland, www.budget-ireland.com; 0800/283 438 in New Zealand, www.budget.co.nz).

• Hertz (tel. 13 30 39 in Australia, www.hertz.com.au; 800/654-3001 in the U.S. and Canada, www.hertz.com; or 800/263-0678 in French in Canada, www.hertz.ca; 0870/844 844 in the U.K., www.hertz.co.uk; 0800/654 321 in New Zealand, www.hertz.co.nz).

• Thrifty (tel. 1300/367 227 in Australia, www.thrifty.com.au; 800/847-4389 in the U.S. and Canada, www.thrifty.com; 01494/751-540 in the U.K., www.thrifty.co.uk; 1800/515-800 in Ireland, www.thrifty.ie; 0800/73 7070 in New Zealand, www.thrifty.co.nz).

Two other large companies with offices around Australia are:

• Europcar (tel. 1300/13 13 90 in Australia or 03/9330 6160, www.europcar.com.au; 877/940-6900 in the U.S. and Canada, www.europcar.com; 0870/607-5000 in the U.K., www.europcar.co.uk; 1/614-2800 in Ireland, www.europcar.ie; 0800/800 115 in New Zealand, www.europcar.co.nz). Europcar has the third-largest fleet in Australia.

• Red Spot Car Rentals (tel. 1300/668 810 in Australia, or 02/8303 2222; www.redspotrentals.com.au). It has depots in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Cairns, the Gold Coast, Hobart, and Launceston.

A small sedan for zipping around a city or touring a wine region will cost about A$45 to A$80 (US$36-US$64/UK#18-UK#32) a day. A feistier vehicle with enough grunt to get you from state to state will cost around A$70 to A$100 (US$56-US$80/UK#28-UK#40) a day. Rentals of a week or longer usually reduce the price by A$5 (US$4/UK#2) a day or so.

A regular car will get you to most places in this book, but because the country has many unpaved roads, it can make sense to rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle. All the major car-rental companies rent them. They are more expensive than a regular car, but you can get them for as little as A$75 (US$60/UK#30) per day if you shop around, cheaper for rentals of a week or longer.

The rates quoted here are only a guide. Many smaller local companies -- and the big guys, too -- offer competitive specials, especially in tourist areas with distinct off seasons. Advance purchase rates, usually 7 to 21 days, can offer significant savings.

Insurance -- Insurance for loss of, or damage to, the car, and third-party property insurance are usually included, but read the agreement carefully, because the fine print contains information the front-desk staff may not tell you. For example, damage to the car body may be covered, but not damage to the windshield or tires, or damage caused by water or driving too close to a bushfire.

The deductible, known as "excess" in Australia, on insurance may be as high as A$2,000 (US$1,600/UK#800) for regular cars and up to A$5,500 (US$4,400/UK#2,200) on four-wheel-drives and motor homes. You can reduce it, or avoid it altogether, by paying a premium of between about A$20 to A$50 (US$16-US$40/UK#8-UK#20) per day on a car or four-wheel-drive, and around A$25 to A$50 (US$20-US$40/UK#10-UK#20) per day on a motor home. The amount of the excess reduction premium depends on the vehicle type and the extent of reduction you choose. Your rental company may bundle personal accident insurance and baggage insurance into this premium. And again, check the conditions; some excess reduction payments do not reduce excesses on single-vehicle accidents, for example.

Insurance Alert -- Damage to a rental car caused by an animal (hitting a kangaroo, for instance) is not covered by car-rental companies' insurance policies. Nor is driving on an unpaved road -- and Australia has a lot of those.

One-Way Rentals -- Australia's distances often make one-way rentals a necessity, for which car-rental companies can charge a hefty penalty amounting to hundreds of dollars. A one-way fee usually applies to motor-home renters, too -- usually around A$200 to A$220 (US$160-US$176/UK#80-UK#88), more for remote outback areas such as Broome and Alice Springs. And there's a 7-day rental minimum.

Motor Homes -- Motor homes (Aussies call them camper vans) are popular in Australia. Generally smaller than the RVs in the United States, they come in two-, three-, four-, or six-berth versions, and usually have everything you need, such as a minifridge/freezer (icebox in the smaller versions), microwave, gas stove, cooking and cleaning utensils, linens, and touring information including maps and campground guides. All have showers and toilets, except some two-berthers. Most have air-conditioned driver's cabins, but not all have air-conditioned living quarters, a necessity in most parts of the country from November through March. Four-wheel-drive campers are available, but they tend to be small, and some lack hot water, toilet, shower, and air-conditioning. Minimum driver age for motor homes is usually 21.

Australia's biggest national motor-home-rental companies are Apollo Motorhome Holidays (tel. 1800/777 779 in Australia, or 07/3265 9200; www.apollocamper.com.au), Britz Campervan Rentals (tel. 1800/331 454 in Australia, or 03/8379 8890; www.britz.com), and Maui (tel. 1300/363 800 in Australia, or 03/8379 8891; www.maui.com.au).

For a two-berth motor home with shower and toilet, Britz's rates range from around A$55 to A$170 (US$44-US$136/UK#22-UK#68) per day, over a 5- to 20-day rental period. For a four-berth with shower and toilet over the same period, you are looking at A$125 to A$250 (US$100-US$200/UK#50-UK#100) per day. Rates vary with the seasons. May and June are the slowest months; December and January are the busiest. It's sometimes possible to get better rates by booking in your home country before departure. Renting for longer than 3 weeks knocks a few dollars off the daily rate. Most companies will demand a minimum 4- or 5-day rental. Give the company your itinerary before booking, because some routes, such as the ferry across to Tasmania -- or, in the case of a four-wheel-drive motor home, the Gibb River Road in the Kimberley -- may need the company's permission.

Companies may not permit you to drive their two-wheel-drive motor home on unpaved roads, although they may make an exception for relatively short unsealed access roads to recognized campgrounds. Check with them first.

Frustratingly, most local councils take a dim view of "free camping," the practice of pulling over by the roadside to camp for the night. Instead, you will likely have to stay in a campground.

On the Road

Gas -- The price of petrol (gasoline) will probably elicit a cry of dismay from Americans and a whoop of delight from Brits. Prices go up and down, but at press time you were looking at around A$1.25 (UK50p) a liter (or US$3.80 per U.S. gallon) for unleaded petrol in Sydney, and A$1.35 (UK55p) a liter (or US$4.10 per U.S. gallon), or more, in the Outback. One U.S. gallon equals 3.78 liters. Most rental cars take unleaded gas, and motor homes run on diesel, which at press time was averaging around the same price as unleaded petrol.

Driving Rules -- Australians drive on the left, which means you give way to the right. Left turns on a red light are not permitted unless a sign says so.

Roundabouts (traffic circles) are common at intersections; approach these slowly enough to stop if you have to, and give way to all traffic on the roundabout. Flash your indicator as you leave the roundabout (even if you're going straight, because technically that's a left turn).

The only strange driving rule is Melbourne's requirement that drivers turn right from the left lane at certain intersections in the city center. This allows the city's trams to carry on uninterrupted in the right lane. Pull into the left lane opposite the street you are turning into, and make the turn when the traffic light in the street you are turning into becomes green. These intersections are signposted.

The maximum permitted blood alcohol level when driving is .05%, which equals approximately two 200-milliliter (6.6-oz.) drinks in the first hour for men, one for women, and one drink per hour for both sexes after that. The police set up random breath-testing units (RBTs) in cunningly disguised and unlikely places all the time, so getting caught is easy. You will face a court appearance if you do.

The speed limit is 50kmph (31 mph) or 60kmph (37 mph) in urban areas, 100kmph (62 mph) in most country areas, and sometimes 110kmph (68 mph) on freeways. In the Northern Territory, the speed limit is set at 130kmph (81 mph) on the Stuart, Arnhem, Barkly, and Victoria highways, while rural roads are designated 110kmph (68 mph) speed limits unless otherwise signposted. But be warned: The Territory has a high road death toll. Speed-limit signs are black numbers circled in red on a white background.

Drivers and passengers, including taxi passengers, must wear a seat belt at all times when the vehicle is moving forward, if the car is equipped with a belt. Young children are required to sit in the rear seat in a child-safety seat or harness; car-rental companies will rent these to you, but be sure to book them. Tell the taxi company you have a child when you book a cab so that it can send a car with the right restraints.

Maps -- The maps published by the state automobile clubs listed below in "Auto Clubs" will likely be free if you are a member of an affiliated auto club in your home country. None will mail them to you overseas; pick them up on arrival. Remember to bring your auto-club membership card to qualify for discounts or free maps.

Two of the biggest map publishers in Australia are HEMA Maps (tel. 07/3340 0000; www.hemamaps.com.au) and Universal Publishers (tel. 1800/021 987 in Australia, or 02/9857 3700; www.universalpress-online.com). Both publish an extensive range of national, state, regional, and city maps. HEMA has a strong list of regional maps ("Gold Coast and Region" and "The Red Centre" are just a few), while Universal produces a complete range of street directories by city, region, or state under the "UBD" and "Gregory's" labels. HEMA produces four-wheel-drive and motorbike road atlases and many regional four-wheel-drive maps -- good if you plan to go off the trails -- an atlas of Australia's national parks, and maps to Kakadu and Lamington national parks.

Both companies produce a range of national road atlases. Universal's UBD Complete Motoring Atlas of Australia helpfully publishes street maps of small regional towns in each state. Australia is so big that a national atlas is good for overall trip planning and long-distance or interstate journeys, but sometimes of limited use on day trips or short journeys, because it is not detailed enough. You may find it worthwhile to purchase a map to the local area -- say, a "Cairns to Cooktown" map if you want to explore Cairns, Kuranda, Port Douglas, and other towns within an hour or two of Cairns.

In Australia, auto clubs , bigger newsdealers, and bookstores are your best sources for maps. Gas stations stock a limited range relating to their location, and visitor information centers sometimes stock a range of maps to the area and the whole state.

Road Signs -- Australians navigate by road name, not road number. The easiest way to get where you're going is to familiarize yourself with the major towns along your route and follow the signs toward them.

Auto Clubs -- Every state and territory in Australia has its own auto club. Your auto association back home probably has a reciprocal agreement with Australian clubs, which may entitle you to free maps, accommodations guides, and emergency roadside assistance. Don't forget to bring your membership card.

Even if you're not a member, the clubs are a good source of advice on local traffic regulations, touring advice, road conditions, traveling in remote areas, and any other motoring questions you may have. They sell maps, accommodations guides, and camping guides to nonmembers at reasonable prices. They share a website: www.aaa.asn.au. You can drop into numerous regional offices as well as the head office locations listed here.

• New South Wales & ACT: National Roads and Motorists' Association (NRMA), 388 George St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 13 11 22 in New South Wales, or 02/8741 6000).

• Victoria: Royal Automobile Club of Victoria (RACV), 550 Princes Hwy., Noble Park, VIC 3174 (tel. 13 13 29 in Australia, or 03/9790 2211). A more convenient city office is at 438 Little Collins St., Melbourne.

• Queensland: Royal Automobile Club of Queensland (RACQ), 300 St. Pauls Terrace, Fortitude Valley, QLD 4006 (tel. 13 19 05 in Australia, or 07/3361 2444). A more convenient city office is in the General Post Office (GPO) building, 261 Queen St., Brisbane (tel. 07/3872 8465).

• Western Australia: Royal Automobile Club of WA (RACWA), 228 Adelaide Terrace, Perth, WA 6000 (tel. 13 17 03 or 08/9436 4444).

• South Australia: Royal Automobile Association of South Australia (RAA), 55 Hindmarsh Sq., Adelaide, SA 5000 (tel. 08/8202 4600).

• Northern Territory: Automobile Association of the Northern Territory (AANT), 79-81 Smith St., Darwin, NT 0800 (tel. 08/8981 3837).

• Tasmania: Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania (RACT), corner of Murray and Patrick streets, Hobart, TAS 7000 (tel. 13 27 22 in Tasmania, or 03/6232 6300).

Road Conditions & Safety

Here are some common motoring dangers and ways to avoid them:

Fatigue -- Fatigue is a killer on Australia's roads. The rule is to take a 20-minute break every 2 hours, even if you don't feel tired. In some states, "driver reviver" stations operate on major roads during holiday periods. They serve free tea, coffee, and cookies, and are often at roadside picnic areas that have restrooms.

Kangaroos & Other Wildlife -- It's a sad fact, but kangaroos are a road hazard. Avoid driving in country areas between dusk and dawn, when 'roos are most active. If you hit one, always stop and check its pouch for live joeys (baby kangaroos), because females usually have one in the pouch. Wrap the joey tightly in a towel or old sweater, don't feed or overhandle it, and take it to a vet in the nearest town or call one of the following wildlife care groups: Wildlife Information & Rescue Service (WIRES) in New South Wales (tel. 02/8977 3333); Wildlife Victoria (tel. 0500/540 000 or 03/9663 9211); Wildlife Rescue in Queensland (tel. 0418/792 598); RSPCA Wildlife in the ACT (tel. 02/6287 8100 or 0413/495 031); Wildcare in Western Australia (tel. 08/9474 9055); Wildlife Rescue in the Northern Territory (tel. 0409/090 849); Fauna Rescue of S.A. in South Australia (tel. 08/8289 0896); or Wildcare in Tasmania (tel. 03/6233 2852). Most vets will treat native wildlife for free.

Some highways run through unfenced stations (ranches), where sheep and cattle pose a threat. Cattle like to rest on the warm bitumen road at night, so put your lights on high to spot them. If an animal does loom up, slow down -- but never swerve, or you may roll. If you have to, hit it. Tell ranchers within 24 hours if you have hit their livestock.

Car-rental companies will not insure for animal damage to the car, which should give you an inkling of how common an occurrence this is.

Road Trains -- Road trains consist of as many as three big truck carriages linked together to make a "train" up to 54m (177 ft.) long. If you're in front of one, give the driver plenty of warning when you brake, because the trains need a lot of distance to slow down. Allow at least 1 clear kilometer (over 1/2 mile) before you pass one, but don't expect the driver to make it easy -- "truckies" are notorious for their lack of concern for motorists.

Unpaved Roads -- Many country roads are unsealed (unpaved). They are usually bone-dry, which makes them more slippery than they look, so travel at a moderate speed -- 35kmph (22 mph) is not too cautious, and anything over 60kmph (37 mph) is dangerous. Don't overcorrect if you veer to one side. Keep well behind any vehicles, because the dust they throw up can block your vision.

Floods -- Floods are common in the Top End and north of Cairns from November or December through March or April (the Wet season). Never cross a flooded road unless you are sure of its depth. Crocodiles may be in the water, so do not wade in to test it! Fast-flowing water is dangerous, even if it's very shallow. When in doubt, stay where you are and wait for the water to drop; most flash floods subside in 24 hours. Check the road conditions ahead at least once a day in the Wet season.

Running Out of Gas -- Gas stations (also called "roadhouses" in rural areas) can be few and far between in the Outback, so fill up at every opportunity.

What If Your Vehicle Breaks Down?

Warning: If you break down or get lost, never leave your vehicle. Many a motorist -- often an Aussie who should have known better -- has died wandering off on a crazy quest for help or water, knowing full well that neither is to be found for maybe hundreds of miles. Most people who get lost do so in Outback spots; if that happens to you, conserve your body moisture by doing as little as possible and staying in the shade of your car. Put out distress signals in patterns of three -- three yells, three columns of smoke, and so on. The traditional Outback call for help is "Coo-ee," with the accent on the "ee" and yodeled in a high pitch; the sound travels a surprisingly long way.

The state auto clubs listed above provide free breakdown emergency assistance to members of many affiliated automobile associations around the world.

Emergency Assistance

The emergency breakdown assistance telephone number for every Australian auto club is tel. 13 11 11 from anywhere in Australia. It is billed as a local call. If you are not a member of an auto club at home that has a reciprocal agreement with the Australian clubs, you'll have to join the Australian club on the spot before the club will tow or repair your car. This usually costs only around A$80 (US$64/UK#32), not a big price to pay when you're stranded -- although in the Outback, the charge may be considerably higher. Most car-rental companies also have emergency assistance numbers.

Tips for Tour-Wheel Drivers

Always keep to the four-wheel-drive track. Going off-road causes soil erosion, a significant environmental problem in Australia. Leave gates as you found them. Obtain permission from the owners before venturing onto private station (ranch) roads. On an extended trip or in remote areas, carry 5 liters (1 1/3 gal.) of drinking water per person per day (dehydration occurs fast in the Australian heat); enough food to last 3 or 4 days more than you think you will need; a first-aid kit; spare fuel; a jack and two spare tires; spare fan belts, radiator hoses, and air-conditioner hoses; a tow rope; and a good map that marks all gas stations. In seriously remote areas outside the scope of this book, carry a high-frequency and CB radio. (A cellphone may not work in the Outback.) Advise a friend, your hotel manager, the local tourist bureau, or a police station of your route and your expected time of return or arrival at your destination.