Thailand Travel Guide

You'll start your 1-week capitals tour in Bangkok in order to take in some of the country's main historic sites, and then head elsewhere to trace the nation's legacy back to the ancient seats of power. First, you'll head north to Ayutthaya -- the capital until the late 18th century -- then carry on via tiny Lopburi (it's best to do so by train), to Phitsanulok. Meander onwards to Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai, the very origins of the Kingdom of Thailand, before finally ending up in the ancient Lanna capital of Chiang Mai. If you want to extend your trip, you can visit some of the archaeological sites that exist in Isan in the northeast; temples towns such as Phimai there reflect the influence of the Khmers who built Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Pack light for this journey, as you'll be carrying your own luggage all the way (unless you arrange a private car or tour for the whole itinerary).

Day 1: Bangkok to Ayutthaya

Arrive in Bangkok and then depart for Ayutthaya, just a short trip away. You can arrange to go by boat, as a one-way journey. It's more fun and adventurous, though, to go by local train from Bangkok's Hua Lampong train station (easily accessed by subway).

In Ayutthaya, check into Krungsri River House, one of the best accommodations options; though it's basic, it's convenient to the train station. From there, cross by rickety local ferry to the center of the old city and see the highlights. The city museums include the Ayutthaya Historical Study Center and the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum; both contain good historical info and artifacts. Don't miss Wat Phra Mahathat in the city center, the most striking of the Ayutthaya ruins, and Viharn Phra Mongkol Bopit, which is home to Thailand's largest seated bronze Buddha. Then take a late afternoon tour by long-tail boat around the city island.

In the evening, catch a meal at the colorful Hua Raw night market or at one of the city's little floating restaurants. The ruins are illuminated in the evening, so a night tour is another option.

Day 2: Ayutthaya to Phitsanulok (via Lopburi)

Get an early start and hop on the first train to the small town of Lopburi -- about an hour north of Ayutthaya. Leave your bags at the train station and find the TAT office just down the well-marked alley for a map. Visit King Narai's Palace or the Lopburi National Museum. Catch the afternoon train to Phitsanulok. Overnight at Topland Hotel in the center of Phitsanulok -- then enjoy a meal at the riverside night market there or at one of the city's floating restaurants.

Day 3: Phitsanulok to Sukhothai

Wake up early to visit Phitsanulok's Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat ("Wat Yai") or the intriguing Bronze Casting Foundry before heading by road to Sukhothai. You can get there by local bus, but it's best to go by rented vehicle with a driver as this gives you freedom to explore rural sites along the way. There are a number of small tour and rental agencies in Phitsanulok that'll arrange the tour for you.

Once in Sukhothai, check in for the night at the cozy Ruean Thai Hotel or the exceptional Tharaburi Resort. Wherever you stay, be sure to dine at the uniquely eccentric Dream Café.

Day 4: Sukhothai to Chiang Mai (with stops in Lampang or Mae Sot)

This is a long-haul day and there are a few options for going about it. You can backtrack to Phitsanulok, unload your rented vehicle and go to Lampang (or on to Chiang Mai) by local transport (bus or train), or keep the rented vehicle and carry on straight from Sukhothai to Lampang or Chiang Mai.

Along the way north, skirt in to see the temples of Si Satchanalai just north of Sukhothai. Afterwards, you can make an extended stop in Lampang and, time permitting, visit the Thai Elephant Conservation Center, where guests can train to become a mahout (elephant handler). Then you can head straight up to Chiang Mai.

From Sukhothai, you could also take a more intrepid route; head west for an overnight stay at the Burmese border town of Mae Sot, and then travel along the rugged border of Myanmar to little Mae Sariang (a stop on the Mae Hong Son loop) before going to Chiang Mai.

Day 5: Chiang Mai

During the day, explore the Old City walls and visit any of the 121 temple sites located along small alleys in the heart of Chiang Mai. In the evening, head to The House for some wine, tapas, and a fantastic dinner, or take a tuk-tuk to Charoenraj Road and the hip stores of Vila Cini (for the north's best silk) or La Luna gallery. Spend a little time checking out the Night Bazaar, which is a street-long clutter of cheap souvenir stalls; then head to Nimmanheimin Road's boutiques, which are classier.

Day 6: Chiang Mai to Bangkok

Do some last-minute shopping in Chiang Mai before returning to Bangkok either by car, bus, or regional airline. Once there start your tour of Bangkok by Central Pier (confusingly, also known as Sathorn Pier), where you can hop on a fast river taxi or the more comfortable wide-berth Chao Phraya Tourist Boat. Alternatively, take a long-tail boat tour of Thonburi's klongs (canals), which makes for a fascinating 1- to 3-hour trip. You can arrange these trips at the booths at Central Pier next to Saphan Taksin BTS, at River City, or through your hotel (riverside hotels like Ibrik and Arun Residence are good places to base yourself, because they offer shuttle boats).

Heading north by taxi or boat along the S-curve of the river, you will pass most of the city's historical sites. Good stops along the way are Sri Phya, which is next to River City, for pricey souvenir shopping; and Chinatown (known as Yaowarat), to amble along its bustling alleyways. You should also get off at Tha Tien for Wat Po and the Giant Reclining Buddha. From there, it's a short walk to the Grand Palace and the famed Wat Phra Kaew, the temple of the celebrated Emerald Buddha.

From Tha Tien, take the ferry across the river to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. Then you can carry on upstream to visit the National Museum. After visiting the museum, you can stop at Banglampoo for Khao San Road, the vibrant backpacker strip.

This is a lot to see in a day -- you may even want to take 2 days to see it all. But if you've got surplus energy afterwards, see the nightlife suggestions listed under Day 7 . Also check out the dining options listed there for ideas on where to take breaks to eat during your river journey.

Day 7: Bangkok

Spend some time seeing more of the sites of Bangkok. One good place to start your second day in Bangkok is the Jim Thompson House, home of the American who rejuvenated the Thai silk industry. It's right in the city center (near the National Stadium BTS).

Afterwards, ready yourself for a full frontal attack on the city's shops: About a 10-minute walk away from the Jim Thompson House is Mah Boon Krang (MBK), a giant mall catering to Thai teenagers and bargain-hunters alike. Nearby Siam Center and Siam Discovery Center offer more upscale brand names, while adjacent to the Siam BTS is Siam Paragon, a center filled with super-luxury boutiques.

Grab a coffee or snack at the Paragon's bright new food court if you need a break, and then continue on to the funky, trendy clothing stores and restaurants found across the way in Siam Square. Farther down the road are two snazzy malls: Central World, with some amazing restaurants that'll serve well for lunch, and the newly refurbished Zen store next door. Finally, on the other side of the road, check out the chic shops at Gaysorn Plaza, and across the road, the Erawan mall.

If you want to keep up the high-end shopping, hop on the subway to Phrom Phong to the designer warehouse The Emporium and then hop a cab to Panthip Plaza, the city's biggest electronics bazaar. If it's a weekend day, try to visit the gigantic and labyrinthine Chatuchak Market by the Saphan Khwai BTS.

Once you're shopped out, other cultural sites to see in town include Wat Suthat and its giant swing (near Chinatown), stunning Vimarnmek Palace in Dusit Park, and Wat Sakhet, better known as the Golden Mount, which is just north of Klong Banglampoo.

Or you might consider taking a half-day of classes. Both The Peninsula and The Oriental hotels have cooking schools, while the affable restaurateur and TV chef Mrs. Balbir teaches from her home off Sukhumvit. Meditation can be studied at The House of Dhamma or Wat Mahathat, and Thai massage at the Chiva-Som Academy.

If you'd rather get a massage instead of learning how to give one, indulge in one of Bangkok's many affordable massage parlors such as Healthland or Ruam Nuad, both off Sathorn Road, or in a hotel spa. The more rigorous Thai massages should help circulation and aid sleep for the jet-lagged.

Dining choices in this city run the gamut from street food to gourmet restaurants, to dinner cruises offered by five-star hotels like The Oriental, Banyan Tree, and Shangri-la. For a totally mind-blowing dining experience, try the 64-story, open-air Sirocco, or for ground-level authenticity, the local jazz scene at Brown Sugar.

When it comes to nightlife, Nana Plaza and Soi Cowboy, off Sukhumvit Road, form the hub of the go-go scene here. The area around Silom Soi 4 houses the city's best gay bars and good gay/mixed clubs. And Silom Soi Patpong hums with a bustling night market -- it's Bangkok's busiest red-light district. Bars here are as famous for their exotic shows as they are for truly extortionate prices, (enforced by hired muscle). Since the rise of HIV/AIDS in Thailand, the area has been somewhat sanitized, though.

Other nightlife options include checking out a classical Thai dinner-dance at The Oriental's Sala Rim Nam, at Studio 9 restaurant, which is part of the city's famous Patravadi Theater, or at adjacent Supatra River House. Or Muay Thai (Thai Boxing) can be watched at Rachadamnoen or Lumphini stadiums.

Then prepare for your flight home.