Ampenan-Mataram-Cakranegara-Sweta--Together, these four towns, a few kilometers south of the airport, make up one sprawling mass that actually is far less oppressive and suffocating than you would expect from an Indonesian city. True tourist sights are few, but poking around here, especially around the local market (described as "shocking" by foreigners), can be surprisingly interesting, and this is probably the only place you're guaranteed a true Sasak meal (read: fire hot. Really.). It's also a good place to pick up cheap spices, especially vanilla. Still, nearly all tourists quickly move on to more beach-appropriate locales, like Senggigi and Kuta.





