Cambodia Travel Guide

By Air

Connection between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap is frequent and regular on President Air and Siem Reap Airways. Note: There's a $6 (£3.35) domestic departure tax in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

By Bus

Most travelers find local buses rough but a great way to connect with local people (maybe even sit on their laps). Below are the best of the budget tour companies. Most routes depart from Phnom Penh.

Mekong Express connects Phnom Penh and Siem Reap with daily luxury buses for just $10 (£5.55) (87 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh; tel. 023/427-518), and runs various routes (also boats) throughout Cambodia. Bus rides come with an edible snack and there's a bathroom onboard. They make good time, stopping for one 15-minute break only. Tip: Earplugs are your friend on this bus ride (and any bus ride really), as they play Khmer karaoke songs and various Asian pop music videos.

Capitol Tour (No. 14 Road 182, Phnom Penh; tel. 023/217-627) is a long-popular choice for inexpensive seat-in-coach connections and tours throughout the country. Buses leave early from the busy Capitol tour offices in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh (at their office in the capitol, they serve good cheap breakfasts, open 6am-9pm, and a loudspeaker lets you know when the bus is leaving with something like: "For the traveler who him going to Siem Reap, please get on the bus now!").

By Car/Motorbike

Hiring a car with a driver, driving yourself, or going by rented motorbike is a great way to see Cambodia's rural highways and byways. Rough country roads mean that you'll need to hire the most durable of vehicles, with good suspension. Hiring a driver is recommended; traffic is unpredictable. Contact hotels and travel agents. In Phnom Penh Lucky! Lucky! (413 Monivong Blvd.; tel. 023/212-788) is the best place to rent quality motorbikes ($7-$8/£3.90-£4.45 a day) and other vehicles. You'll have to leave your passport, but these folks are reliable and trustworthy. Next door is New! New!, a friendly competitor copycat.

By Boat

Speed boats make the 5-hour trip between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The cost is $25 (£14) and any hotel can arrange a ticket. Boats leave from the pier near the Japanese Bridge in the north end of town or connect with Siem Reap's Tonle Sap docks by taxi. Mekong Express Tour Boat charges $35 (£19) for a ride on its larger, more comfortable boat. Contact them at their offices adjacent to the ferry terminal (87 Sisowath Quay; tel. 023/427-518).