Cairo Travel Guide

Tour One: The Pyramids

The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx (The) are a powerful testament to the ingenuity of the ancient Egyptians. The best time to visit the area is early in the morning. As the day wears on, the crowds increase, especially during Egyptian holidays, as does the chance of being assaulted by dozens of postcard vendors and men offering rides on camels. The Giza pyramids are easily reached by city taxis or public transport.

The Pyramids are a marvel of engineering, and archaeologists have puzzled over exactly how they were built—and some more esoteric types have wondered why. It is, however, generally accepted that the Pyramids were built as tombs for the ancient kings, an evolution from the single-stepped mastabas that designated burial sites in earlier times. Pyramid building was popular from about the 3rd to the 13th Dynasty with the biggest and best examples to be found in Giza.

Soaring at nearly 147 meters, the massive granite Pyramid of Pyramid of Cheops (Khufu), is the largest and the most enigmatic in Egypt. The smooth Tura limestone which once encased the granite structure is no longer intact, and the pyramidion (capstone) is long gone. A separate ticket is required to enter the Pyramid, and since the authorities have limited visitors to 300 a day, it is advisable to arrive at the nearby ticket-kiosk early in the morning.

From the entrance, the descending passage takes you down to the Subterranean Chamber, currently closed, whilst the ascending passage takes you up to the so-called Queen's Chamber, which is not, by the way, a burial chamber. Continuing the ascent, the spacious Grand Gallery, with its high corbelled ceiling, brings you to the King's Chamber, where the granite sarcophagus of King Khufu lies empty. Unlike other Pyramids, the King's burial chamber is above ground. Two small openings can be seen in both the King's and Queen's chambers - these are the controversial "air shafts" which have spawned all sorts of interesting theories. That eerie hum you might hear inside is not spiritual energy channeling through the structure, rather a ventilation system that was installed several years ago.

Outside the Pyramid, to the east, you will find the black basalt pavement where the mortuary temple once stood, and a causeway which in ancient times would have led to the valley temple. Three small Queen's Pyramids also stand on this side, near the Solar Boat Museum (admission LE10). This museum has an exhibit of a wooden boat that was excavated and subsequently reconstructed by Ahmed Youssef. The boat, from one of five boat pits surrounding the Pyramid, symbolically offered passage for the king into the afterlife.

The interior of the Pyramid of Pyramids Sound and Light Show is currently closed for restoration, but the complex is better visible than that of Pyramid of Cheops (Khufu). Some of the limestone casing near the top still remains, giving the pyramid an interesting profile. The ruins of the eastern mortuary temple are still standing, and the causeway (in ancient times a covered passageway) takes you to the remains of the valley temple, where the mummification ritual would have taken place. Next to Khafre's valley temple is the Sphinx (The), another ancient monument that has sparked many controversial theories. Egyptologists, however, agree that the Sphinx was built by Khafre's workmen. The enormous lion statue has recently had a face lift, as experts endeavoured to save the structure from further environmental damage and undo some earlier shoddy restoration work. Visitors can view the Sphinx only from a distance now, but it is still possible to see the Dream Stelae between the forepaws, erected by King Thutmose IV, who fell asleep one afternoon in the shade of the then-buried colossus and in a dream was told to clear the sand which had engulfed it. The Sphinx has sat as a silent sentinel for nearly 4,500 years, gazing to the east, witnessing the growth of the ever-changing Cairo.

The "little" Pyramid of Pyramids Sound and Light Show, standing a respectable 62 meters high, was unfinished at the time of the King's death, and completed by his son. The nasty gash on the north face was caused by earlier explorers trying to dynamite through in order to find the entrance passage. The pyramid is open to visitors, and lately seems to take the bulk of the tourists denied admission to the Great Pyramid, so is therefore not for the claustrophobic. The burial chamber is empty—the sarcophagus was removed and subsequently lost at sea when the ship, transporting it back to Great Britain, sank.

Outside, you can see several courses of granite casing, and the desert in front of the entrance is littered with stones removed from the Pyramid itself. Like all of the Pyramids of Giza, Menkaure's was once seen as a convenient stone quarry for medieval builders. To the east stands the remains of the mortuary temple and the causeway, whilst to the south are three Queen's Pyramids.

An alternative way to enjoy the pyramids is to attend one of the nightly Pyramids Sound and Light Show shows, presented in several different languages. Though it may seem a bit too "touristy" to some, the narration has some historical interest, and the light show is truly beautiful. Others prefer to rent horses from one of the many nearby stables and have a gallop in the desert surrounding the Pyramids. Take care as many of the Pyramid horses are poorly trained, and riders have reported more than a few nasty spills.

If you still have energy and time after wandering around Giza, head south to the Saqqara complex, dominated by the Step Pyramid of Saqqara of the 3rd Dynasty King Zoser. Built before the Pyramids of Giza, this Pyramid shows the evolution of design from the single stepped mastabas to the final smooth-sided Pyramid structures that would follow in the next dynasty. Other beautifully-inscribed tombs of noblemen and official, as well as later dynasty Pyramids, are also open to visitors. The eerie Serapeum, a funerary catacomb built for the sacred Apis bulls, is currently closed for restoration.

South of Saqqara is the rarely visited site of Dahshur, where Khufu's father Sneferu built the Red Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid. The latter's unusual profile was caused by a change of building angle halfway through construction. The Red Pyramid gets pretty close to the architectural perfection of the Giza Pyramids, and you can explore the interior without the claustrophobic crush of the Giza crowds. In the distance, the unusually shaped mudbrick pyramid of Amenemhet III.

A word of advice: It is best to hire a car to visit Saqqara and Dahshur, as the sites are far from the main road, and transportation back into Cairo is not easy to find.

Surrounding the Pyramids' area are numerous souvenir shops, and towards Saqqara and Dahshur you can find a lot of carpet stores where weaving techniques are demonstrated. Popular restaurants nearby include Andrea, serving delicious grilled chicken in a garden-like atmosphere; Christo, offering fish meals and a good view of the Pyramids; and the lower-priced Felfela, serving a range of traditional Egyptian fare. The nearby Mena House Oberoi Hotel is a relaxing place to stop for a drink after touring the site, and has an exquisite Indian restaurant as well. For those who have more than a casual interest in Pyramids, Mark Lehner's book, "The Complete Pyramids" is quite comprehensive, and available at most bookstores and hotels in Cairo.

Tour Two: Old Cairo

Old Cairo, or Masr el-Qadima, provides a historical link between Pharaonic times and the Islamic period. This district was the center of Cairo during Roman times, until after the Arab invasion. The historical sites in this area, which has been continuously inhabited for around 2000 years, are surrounded by modern residences. Old Cairo is easily and best reached by the Metro—the Mar Girgis stop is directly in front of the cluster of Medieval Churches and the Coptic Museum (The).

As you leave the Metro station, you arrive at the twin towers of the western gate of the fortress of Babylon, built by the Roman emperor Trajan (AD 98-117). These towers were built on what were the banks of the Nile at that time. The Orthodox Church of St. George stands on top of the left-hand tower. If you enter the grounds of the Coptic Museum (The), you can walk through the gates and see the old water gate under the Hanging Church.

Along from the towers, the Coptic Museum (The) houses an extensive collection of Coptic art and artifacts, as well as secular items, collected from old churches and houses. There is much to admire here—old icons, textiles and manuscripts; so it will take a few hours to fully peruse the collection.

The Al-Muallaka (Hanging) Church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is so named as it is suspended above the water gate. It was founded in the late 7th Century. Destroyed 200 years later, it was rebuilt and eventually became the centre of the Coptic Patriarchate. Over the years the structure has seen several renovations, and though the Patriarchate has moved, Coptic Masses are still held in the sanctuary. Often, members of the Coptic community are present and offer free in-depth tours of the church.

The nearby Greek Orthodox Church of St. George has the same circular design of the Roman tower upon which it was built. Founded in the 10th Century, and alternating between Greek and Coptic ownership, the original building was damaged by fire in 1904, though fortunately most of the relics and icons survived. The present church was rebuilt on the site, and is the center of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Alexandria. The adjacent monastery does not usually admit visitors.

A subterranean gateway, accessible from Mar Girgis Street, leads you through the narrow alleys of the oldest part of the district. The main building of the Convent of St. George is a nunnery, and not open to the public. You can, however, visit the remains of a Fatimid house on the site, and a small chapel containing the relics of St. George. To the left side of the Convent, you can also visit a small room used for the chain-wrapping ritual, symbolic of the persecution of St. George by the Romans. The attending nuns still perform the ritual, wrapping visitors in chains and reciting the appropriate prayers.

Continue down the narrow alley to the Church of Abu Serga (St Sergius), the oldest in Egypt, built originally in the 5th or 6th Century. It is located at the site of a crypt where it is believed the Holy Family stayed when they were in Egypt. Like the other churches in the area, it has been rebuilt several times since its founding, but still retains its original design. Further along on the left is the Church of St. Barbara (Sitt Barbara), dedicated to Sitt Barbara—as the legend goes, was murdered by the Roman Governor for preaching the gospel in the 3rd Century.

To the south of St. Barbara is the Ben Ezra Synagogue, the oldest in Egypt, built on the site where it is believed that the Pharaoh's daughter found Moses. The synagogue does not hold services anymore, but has been completely restored. During rebuilding in the 19th century, the Geniza (a cache of medieval manuscripts, including secular and religious documents) was discovered.

The cemeteries surrounding the churches are ideal for a peaceful stroll. At the northern part of the compound is the Church of St. George, originally founded in 681 AD and rebuilt in the 19th century, and the Church of the Virgin, rebuilt in the 18th century.

A short distance from the fortress proper are a few other sites of interest, including the Mosque of Amr Ibn al-As. Originally founded in 641 AD, and rebuilt several times since, the mosque is regarded as the oldest in Africa. The remains of the city that would become modern Cairo-Fustat—are to the east and parts have been excavated. The area around Fustat was once full of potters and craftsmen, but they have been recently relocated.

Tour Three: Islamic Cairo - the Citadel and Environs

Although the district referred to as "Islamic Cairo" does not cover a particularly large area, it is best tackled in small pieces over a few days. The hustle and bustle of everyday Egyptian life and the sheer volume of historic sites make it an overwhelming area to explore in one fell swoop. This tour touches on some of the highlights of the area-though, of course, there is plenty more to see beyond what is listed here.

The Citadel (The), Al-Qalaa, nestled near the Muqattam Hills, was a fortress originally built by Salah ad-Din (1171-1193). It was subsequently used by rulers of Egypt for about 700 years. The Citadel area offers some of the best views of Cairo, and boasts a collection of mosques and museums that are well worth exploring. The main entrance to the Citadel is off Salah Salem Road.

From the entrance at the Southern Enclosure, you arrive at the most prominent feature of the Citadel, and indeed of Cairo, the Mohammed Ali Mosque. This was built in the mid-1800s in an architectural style evocative of the great mosques of Istanbul. The Mosque has been undergoing a facelift for the last few years. The massive domes now glisten in the sun, and slowly but surely the alabaster exterior is being cleaned to its former pristine glory. The spacious interior is elaborately decorated with the tomb of Mohammed Ali just to the right of the entrance. At the far end of the courtyard is a Baroque clock that was presented to Mohammed Ali by King Louis-Philippe of France, in exchange for a Pharaonic obelisk from Luxor.

Nearby stands a much older building, the An-Nasir Mohammed Mosque, built between 1318 and 1335. It is constructed in the Mameluke style, and has a beautiful arcaded interior courtyard. Many of the original decorations were stripped from the Mosque during the 16th Century after the Ottoman conquest. Behind the Mosque is Yusif's Well, which is closed to visitors. The well, which is 97 meters deep, was built by prisoners in the 12th Century and was intended as a secondary water supply in case of siege. The water for the Citadel was supplied by the aqueduct, the arched walls of which are still visible and are scheduled for major renovation.

Backtracking a little takes you to Gawhara Palace, originally built by Mohamed Ali in the 19th Century, a section of which is opened as a museum showing artifacts of palace life. Between the Palace and the Mohamed Ali Mosque there is a good panoramic view of the sprawling city. On a clear day, you can see, how far the pyramids actually are and even beyond.

Slightly to the north of the Mosque of Mohamed Ali, is the Police Museum, with a variety of odd exhibits including a section devoted to assassins. Beyond the museum takes you to another pleasant panoromic view of the city, and you can also see the ruins of Qasr al-Ablaq, the Palace of al-Nasir.

The Northern Enclosure of the Citadel includes the Military Museum, which is located inside Mohamed Ali's Harim Palace, and covers military history from Pharaonic times to the present. The Carriage Museum has a small collection of horse-drawn carriages. Just beyond, the Stolen Things Museum contains antiquities recovered from smugglers before they left Egypt. An outdoor garden exhibits larger antiquities from around Egypt. At the far end of the Northern Enclosure is the beautiful and intimate Mosque of Suliman Pasha, built in the early 16th Century in the Ottoman style.

Leave the Northern Enclosure, and exit the Citadel via Bab el-Gedid, "New Gate", and walk down the sloping hill to Midan Salah el-Din to continue the tour. With your back to the Citadel, you will face two imposing structures separated by a narrow passage, the Sultan Hassan Mosque and Madrassa, on your left and the Rifai Mosque on your right. The ticket office is at the far end of the passage. The Mosque of Sultan Hassan, built in the Mameluke style in the mid-14th Century, incorporates, some historians believe, stones from the Giza Pyramids. The Mosque includes four Madrassas - schools of theology - and a mausoleum, which in the morning is illuminated by the sun. The Rifai Mosque was built in the 19th Century in an architectural style that imitates its neighbour. Many of Egypt's Royal Family and the Shah of Iran are buried here.

Proceed southwest down Sharia Saliba, where modern shops stand in juxtaposition to old Islamic buildings, arriving at the Ibn Tulun Mosque. Originally completed in 879 AD, it is one of the largest Mosques in the world. It has an elegant and simple design, and it is possible, for a little "baksheesh", to climb the minaret.

Adjacent to the Mosque is the Gayer-Anderson Museum, which is actually two old mansions (one from the 16th Century and one from the 18th Century) that were joined by the owner, Major Gayer-Anderson, in the 1930s and 1940s. The house is now a museum, and displays the Major's vast private collection of furnishings and artwork. The architecture of the two houses alone is quite interesting. The museum will usually have guides available, offering a fairly comprehensive tour of the house.

From the main street in front of the Ibn Tulun Mosque, complete your tour by taking a taxi to the Museum of Islamic Art, located on Sharia Port Said. By this time, having visited several of the mosques and old houses, you will be able to appreciate the extensive collection which includes ceramics, woodwork, textiles and manuscripts.

Tour Four: The Heart of Islamic Cairo

The heart of Islamic Cairo is the area surrounding the Khan el Khalili. This district is a magnet for tourists and residents and boasts a variety of shops, coffee bars and restaurants, as well as fascinating historical and religious sites. This tour starts at a central point, along the main thoroughfare of Sharia Al-Azhar, and spreads to surrounding areas. During this tour, it is tempting to wander off into the back streets, if time allows, going slightly off the beaten track often yields surprises.

Al Azhar Mosque was founded in 970 AD as a centre for Islamic theology - a tradition which continues until this day. Its political importance continues undiminished with the Sheikh of Al-Azhar being the ultimate theological authority for Egyptian Muslims. The University now maintains several campuses in Egypt, and has expanded to include medicine, agriculture and engineering. When visiting the mosque, it is not uncommon to find students from around the world studying in the cool arcade around the courtyard. There are some basic rules which you must follow if you want to enter the Mosque: women must cover their heads (cumbersome capes are provided if you do not have a scarf), and, of course, shorts are unacceptable for both sexes.

Nearby is the Wikala of al-Ghouri. Built in 1505, the Wikala functioned as a merchants' hotel. Guests slept in the rooms upstairs, animals were kept in the stables below, and business transactions took place in the central courtyard. The Wikala has been restored and is now a cultural center, hosting art exhibitions and events. Several of the upstairs rooms have been converted into artists' studios.

Proceed west down Al Azhar Street past the footbridge, and turn left at the Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri and the Mosque-Madrassa of Al-Ghouri on to Sharia Muizz el Din il Allah. This street is the centre of a lively market which, unlike many others, is not too heavily tourist-oriented. Continue until you reach Bab Zuweila, built in 1092, the southern gate of the old City. The gate is currently under restoration. Pass through the gate and continue more or less straight ahead for a short distance to reach Sharia Khayamiyya and the Tentmakers' Bazaar. The partially-covered street is lined with shops and craftsmen producing intricate appliqué designs on items ranging from pillowcases to bedspreads and tapestries.

From this point, backtrack via Sharia Muizz el Din il Allah to reach Sharia Al Azhar and cross the footbridge. Turn right and proceed up the street until you reach Midan el-Hussein. The Mosque of el Hussein is one of the most sacred places of worship in Egypt, and is technically off-limits to non-Muslims. On Friday, the congregation is so large, worshippers spill out into the street for the noon prayers.

The restaurants lining the western side of the square are a perfect place for a drink and a light snack before venturing into the labyrinth of the Khan el Khalili. The Khan dates back to the 14th century, when it was a mere caravanserai - a large inn providing accommodation for caravans. Over the centuries it has grown into an enormous bazaar. It is still a popular shopping area, though many of the shops are dedicated to tourist-oriented items. There is anything and everything here - jewellery, copper and brass items, woodwork, odd Pharaonic goodies, fabrics, carpets, glassware and spices. Quality varies, and in most shops, bargaining is mandatory. Several good restaurants and coffee shops are scattered throughout the area. A two hundred year old coffee shop, Fishawi (El), is a must for a cup of tea and a sheesha (water pipe). The Naguib Mahfouz Cafe offers good Egyptian food in a clean and peaceful atmosphere.

As you move west, the Khan merges into Muski, a less tourist-oriented market. Sharia el-Muski, which runs roughly from Midan el-Hussein to Sharia Port Said, is the centre of the market. It is an interesting place to explore, but tends to get very crowded. Both Muski and the Khan are an incredible maze - but it is well worth investigating the narrow lanes full of merchants and workshops.

To get back on track, head west on Al-Azhar to Sharia Muizz el Din il Allah (just after the footbridge) and turn right. The street is lined with shops, and the various Islamic monuments are a delight to explore.

A short distance on your left, just before the Madrassa of Sultan Barsbey, is a small street that leads to the spice market - a colourful, crowded and aromatic conglomeration of shops with large open sacks spilling over with every imaginable kind of spice.

Return to Muizz el Din il Allah and proceed north, crossing el-Muski. You will arrive at a long facade of Mameluke buildings on the left which are actually a series of three separate complexes. The Complex of Sultan Quala'un is the first, built in 1284-5. The complex contains a Maristan - a hospital that provided free medical treatment. The Madrassa (school) is on the left, and the Mausoleum is on the right, where Quala'un and his son, an-Nasir, are buried. The Mosque of Al-Nasir Mohamed comes next, and finally the Madrassa and Mausoleum of Sultan Barquq, built a hundred years after the Quala'un complex. These complexes have been under restoration for some time, so various sections might be closed - the caretakers will be able to inform you.

Farther north on the right is what remains of Qasr Beshtak, a 14th Century Palace which, in its day, was five stories tall and had running water on each floor. Beyond this, at a small fork in the road, is the Sabil-Kuttab of Abd el-Rahman Katkhuda, which was built in the 18th Century and served as a Q'uranic school as well as a public fountain.

Keep to the left at the fork in the road, and continue until you come to the elaborate facade of the Mosque of al Aqmar, the "moonlit" Mosque, built in 1125. Farther up the street, on the left, you cannot miss the restoration project surrounding the Beyt al-Suhaymi, a 17th century merchant's house. The restoration project extends to the surrounding neighborhood, and the freshly painted houses are in stark contrast to their dusty neighbors.

Just before you reach the northern gates of the city, you come to El Hakim Mosque, which has had a strange history since its completion in 1013 AD, serving - amongst other things - as a prison in the 12th Century, as well as a stable and gunpowder warehouse for Napoleon. In the 1980s, a Shi'ite sect from India, the Bohra, rebuilt the Mosque, adding marble and other "foreign" touches.

Just past the Mosque are the northern gates of the old city - Bab el Futah on the left, and Bab an-Nasr on the right - two of the three remaining gates to medieval Cairo. It is possible to explore these gates closely, assuming you can find the caretaker.

From this point, return to the Khan el Khalili for a well-deserved cup of tea.2008-08-02T07:29:22.000 113