Heidelberg Travel Guide

Heidelberg—recommended tour

If one measures the area, Heidelberg certainly does not rate as one of the bigger cities in the world. The Old Town, at less than 2km in size, is pretty small and for this reason it is ideal to discover the town on foot. Suitable shoes are, however, a good idea, as cobble-stone pavements don't do much for a flashy pair of heels!

The most famous of Heidelberg's attractions will be the starting point of our tour: the ruin of the Heidelberg castle. It is accessible via the Bergbahn (mountain railway, a cog-wheel train) that departs at the parking garage Kornmarkt or on two foot paths that lead from the left side of the parking garage to the castle. The old Castle road on the left leads on cobble-stones directly into the castle; the one branching off to the right heads on steep stairs over the Kurze Buckel (the short hump) to the main entrance and into the castle gardens.

Much praised and world-famous: The Heidelberg Castle

The best point from which to start your discovery is the Schlossgarten. The terraces with fountains and waterworks still stem from Baroque times. Between the old trees you will gain a first magnificent impression of the mighty and time-honoured walls. From here you will have the best view of the exploded Herb Tower.
Through the Gate Tower at the south end of the castle you enter the Courtyard, where you will witness the peculiarity and the magic of the castle in all its wealth. The single buildings are examples of the most differing historical building styles, nothing seems to belong together, and it seems almost as if a child has taken blocks from and oversized building set and aimlessly assembled them at random. The plain Ladies Building stands beside Frederick's Palace with its richly decorated facade. The splendid, but roofless Ottheinrich's Palace, on the other hand, doesn't seem to match the austere Ludwigsbau or the unadorned Ruprechtsbau at all. It is worth pausing to take in the fantastic scenery and to see at least one if not both buildings from the inside. A main attraction is without doubt the Großes Fass (Schloss), but it is worth visiting the inside as part of a Castle Tour or to see the Deutsches Apothekenmuseum. Between Frederick's Palace and the Gläserner-Saal-Bau (Schloss) leads a small passage way to the Altan (Schloss-Terrasse) (Great terrace) that offers an unrivaled, beautiful view over Heidelberg and the Neckar valley far into the Rhine plain and the Palatinate Forest. Underneath the Belvedere the cobble-stone Castle Road leads back into the Old town. Those who are not keen walkers can effortlessly return to the Kornmarkt on the mountain railway.

Romantic and narrowly-angled: the Old town

The most famous sight at the Kornmarkt is that of the Madonna vom Kornmarkt. With the castle in the background it is very popular photo opportunity. From the Kornmarkt you will reach the market place after only a few metres. Some items of great significance stand on this site.

The Marktplatz is dominated by the Holy Ghost Church, those who take it upon themselves to climb up are justly rewarded with a magnificent view of the rooftops of the Old town. Opposite the Church is the Rathaus and in the row of the houses you will find the remarkably beautiful facade of the hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg and of the former Court Dispensary (No. 190). On the market place there is also a large choice of cafés and snack bars that are perfect for a small meal before you continue to explore the town.

From the market place, the Hauptstraße leads west to the Bismarckplatz. You could also continue the tour via the Untere Straße that branches off northwest of the Holy Ghost Church, by the Café Knösel with the well-known Students' kisses. Most roads, apart from the Hauptstraße, are less crowded and offer a profound and enchanting impression of Heidelberg. At the Hay market you turn to the left and reach the Hauptstraße again.

The Hauptstraße, the main street, extends over a distance of 1.6 km and runs from the Karlstor on the east side along the Marktplatz to the west end at the Bismarckplatz. Many narrowly angled and romantic roads with charming little houses branch off, some have only a width of 3.5 metres. The Hauptstraße itself is only 10 metres wide. The eastern part underneath the castle has a certain historical and romantic flair; the university is situated in the central part with its different buildings and the west part of the Hauptstraße is dominated by shops. Besides these you will find a lot of cafes, pubs, and restaurants here. Enjoy the lively scenery but do not linger on too long - the third part of our tour is still waiting.

When you have reached the spacious Bismarckplatz you have the choice either to go one stop direction Neuenheim/Handschuhsheim by tram or to cross the Theodor-Heuss-Brücke on foot. Shortly behind the bridge you will find the tram stop, Ladenburger Straße, turn right here until you reach the Philosophenweg. First, the road leads steeply up hill before the slope gets gentle again.

Breathtaking views: the Philosphers' road

The Philosophenweg stretches along the southern side of the Heiligenberg and between small gardens and the woods you can enjoy a beautiful view of the Old town and the castle that is really quite picturesque. Semi-exotic plants like broom, lemon trees, pomegranates, yucca and pine trees that grow here due to the mild climate. The road was named in the last centuries when presumably scholars of the university used to walk here, perhaps inspired into deep thought.

The first look-out point shows the Philosophers' Garden, a peaceful place with flower-beds and benches in which to linger and contemplate. On the east side of this garden is the Joseph von Eichendorff memorial stone reminds us of this romantic poet who studied in Heidelberg in 1807/08. Above the garden the philosphers' road branches into the upper and the lower road. However, we will follow the lower one that does not ascend any further. The next memorial stone is the Liselottestein, dedicated to the daughter of Karl Ludwig who was married to the Sun kings brother, a marriage that in 1685 unleashed the disastrous Palatine War of Succession leading to the destruction of the castle.

A few steps further on, you come across the Merianblick (Merian's view): here stands a large-scale illustration of the copperplate engraving that was created in 1620 by Matthäus Merian and that shows the Heidelberg of the day. To compare this picture of Heidelberg with today's view is really fascinating. Some hundred metres further, you will find a small park that is designed in honour of the poet Friedrich Hölderlin.

Before this park the Schlangenweg (serpent's path) branches off down to the valley. Between walls and with numerous bends and curves you follow the cobble-stone path to the Old bridge. An alternative route is to follow the philosophers' road further up and find your way back to the Neckar via the Hirschgasse. At the Neckar you turn to the right and walk back to the Alte Brücke (Karl-Theodor-Brücke). The castle on the left side appears from the river valley to be very sublime. On the right of the street you can see a row of magnificent villas that were built in the last century.

When you reach the Old bridge turn left. The unique sight of the bridge with the Old town, the castle and the wooded mountains in the background will stay with you for a long time. Yet you will probably be pretty hungry and want to change from pleasures of the eye to those of the palate. Just follow the street across the Old bridge into town. Directly behind the bridge you will find several restaurants that offer good food for fair prices. Alternatively, follow the street a few meters and look for something suitable in the market place. In any case, after this walk you deserve an hearty meal!2008-08-02T07:29:22.000 141