Kilkenny Travel Guide

Ireland's medieval capital is satisfyingly compact and, with a modicum of planning, a stroll through the city centre can easily serve as a fascinating historical tour. A good starting point is the 13th century St. Canice's Cathedral (at the north-western end) from which the town takes its name: Cill Cainneach is Gaelic for 'Canice's church'. Enquire about climbing the 30 metre round tower, and view the limestone effigies of Piers and Margaret Butler that lie within the Cathedral. The stone andtimberwork in evidence here is breathtaking, while the ubiquitous black marble, most notably in St Ciaran's chair in the north transept, suggest why Kilkenny is also known as the 'Marble City'. The library next door is also worth visiting as it stores thousands of 16th and 17th century manuscripts.

Follow Vicar Street onto Dean Street. Take the second left onto Abbey Street, cross the bridge and you will see the walls of the Black Abbey, which also dates from the 13th century. In the 1300s eight priests here were lost to the infamous Black Death, although the Abbey itself is more prosaically named after the colors of the Dominican robes. While here, look for the adjacent Black Freren Gate that is the sole standing gate from the original town walls.

Continue onto Parliament Street, turn right and Rothe House is a short distance down on your right. Home of the Kilkenny Archaeological Society, this magnificently preserved Tudor merchant's house dates from 1594. Take time to see the brief audio-visual show that is offered and look out for temporary exhibitions. Where Parliament Street diverges into High Street and St. Kieran's Street, take the holy option and check out Kyteler's Inn on your left. In addition to it being a nice spot for refreshments, this is the oldest house in Kilkenny, and was the home of Dame Alice Kyteler who led a remarkable life here in the 13th century before being forced to flee after accusations of witchcraft. Her unfortunate maid Petronella was burned at the stake for the same alleged offense.

From Kytelers, cross the road and head through the Butterslip (opposite Dunnes Stores). This attractive, narrow lane was built in 1616 and was once lined with butter-sellers. It will bring you onto High Street. The beautiful Italian-looking Georgian building on the right as you emerge is the Tholsel, and dates from 1761. Built of black Kilkenny marble, it was once a tollhouse and now functions as a city hall. From here, head southwards (ie away from Canice's cathedral), until you reach Rose Inn Street on the left. On this street is the Tourist Information Office (Shee Alms House), which was founded by one Sir Richard Shee to help the indigent of the town. It is now a tourist office and offers a half-hourly 'Cityscope' exhibition that is worth checking out. Further up Rose Inn Street is St. John's College. This has beautiful grounds and can be explored for a small fee. The walk to it is worth it, if only because it takes you across John's Bridge, and it can be glorious to relax by the riverside in good weather, perhaps with a beverage from nearby Tynan's Bridge House Bar or Matt the Miller.

Retrace your steps along Rose Inn Street, where there is ample selection for those who desire further refreshment and turn left up The Parade. Here, fittingly at the end of our tour, is the jewel in the city's crown, the majestic Kilkenny Castle, and across the road, the Castle Yard. While much has been written about the Castle, its sheer grandeur undoubtedly speaks for itself.2008-08-02T07:29:22.000 369