Jerusalem Travel Guide

Israel's plentiful range of home-grown fruits and vegetables means that Jerusalem has wonderful salads, fresh juices, and vegetarian dishes to offer. Menus draw heavily on local ingredients such as pine nuts, eggplant, mint, chickpeas, tomato, cucumber, avocados, figs, and Bulgarian cheese (Israel's answer to feta).

West Jerusalem

Vegetarians will find Jerusalem an easy city to eat out in, thanks to Jewish dietary laws that do not allow milk and meat dishes to be served in the same restaurant. Look out for Kosher dairy restaurants, which will have no meat on their menu (such as Yerushalayim Hakatana (Little Jerusalem), but might serve fish, and the juice bars that line the roads and alleys of the downtown area. For pure vegetarian food try the canteen style Village Green in the center of town.

Jerusalem has an eclectic range of food to offer due to its standing as an international city, a city on the crossroads between North Africa, the Mediterranean, and the Middle East–a city which is home to both Arab and Jewish cultures. Israel's Jewish immigrants come from all corners of the globe, leading to a lively culinary mix.

Jewish food is more than smoked salmon bagels (available at the Holy Bagel) and chopped liver. It is malouweh from Yemin (a deep fried dough served with tomato relish), spicy couscous stews from Morocco (on the menu at Darna's), as well as the chicken matza-ball soup and gefilte fish of Eastern Europe, served by places such as Marvad Haksamim in the Hechal Shlomo synagogue. At 130 NIS a head, the King David Hotel Breakfast Buffet is probably the priciest option.

The city's favorite snacks are falafel (deep fried balls made from crushed chick peas) and schwarma (slices of lamb)–both of which are served in pita bread along with hummus, tehina, salads, chips, pickles, and spicy sauce. In West Jerusalem, head to the alleys of the market (Mehane Yehuda) for a cheap and authentic falafel experience.

Things happen late in Israel, and many restaurants do not get busy until 9pm or later. The biggest concentration of eateries in West Jerusalem is in the pedestrians' area around Zion Square and Ben Yehuda Street, including the charming alleyways of Nahalat Shiva and Yoel Solomon. As this is a popular tourist area there are cuisines here from all around the world: bagel stands, creperies, South American steakhouses (such as Pampa Grill or El Gaucho), and Far Eastern food (be it sushi at Sakura or kimchee at Korea House), to name a few.

During Shabbat (just before sundown on Friday to the appearance of the first three stars on Saturday night) many eateries in West Jerusalem will be closed. However, non-Kosher establishments are open as well as the plethora of restaurants in East Jerusalem and the Old City (bar the Jewish Quarter), so you won't go hungry.

East Jerusalem

Sahlab is a delicious Arab drink made from the roots of orchids, which is served warm with a nutmeg and shredded coconut topping. Another popular local delicacy is the boureka–puff pastry with a savoury filling, such as mashed potato, spinach, mushrooms, or white cheese. The Arabesque Restaurant is the place to go to get all of the traditional Middle Eastern cuisine as well as selections from various countries all over Central and Eastern Europe. Val's Brasserie Lounge is located in the The American Colony Hotel and offers a relaxing experience and dishes from around the world.

Many Arab eateries, such as Pasha's, will provide a nargillah (water pipe with flavored tobacco) for relaxing after a meal. Israel is known for its light, healthy breakfasts and a visit to a breakfast buffet at a five-star hotel is recommended. The staples of an Israeli breakfast are a large range of cheeses and salad vegetables. In keeping with five-star tradition, there will also be omelettes, crepes, smoked salmon, cheesecake, and fresh fruit. Guests can help themselves as many times as they like, and lunch afterwards is rarely necessary!

Inside the Old City, there are many places to grab a takeaway falafel or schwarma. Abu Shakri in the Arab quarter provides good Middle Eastern food–for those wishing to eat their falafel sitting down. Try labana, a white cheese, and foul–a bean dish seasoned with lemon juice.2008-08-02T07:29:22.000 409