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Hey, remember that time I hiked up a Glacier? Not any Glacier, the (currently)steepest glacier in the world, and at a time when it was advancing no-less. There is a lot of glacial physics that goes on and I will spare you the details, but essentially a glacier is always in a constant state of motion. Advancing, moving further down the valley, or receding, retreating back into the valley (neve). A glacier is essentially a massive 'sheet' of ice that is situated over a rushing river that comes out of its terminal face (pictured). When in a state of advance there are many more gasping chasms and ice caves, but it also makes for a more treacherous hike. Due to the constantly changing nature of the glacier, guides have to constantly maintain tracks, or build an entirely new one. This is the situation we were in. The glacier had shifted significantly (as it turns out some of the glacier moves very quickly, ~5m/day) the week before we arrived and we were actually the first group to venture up this new trail.
We arrived at the centre for 9am and donned our rubber boots, rain pants, rain coats, gloves, and were issued crampons and ice axes. You see the west coast tends to get a serious amount of rain, on the order of 10-13m per year. This gives it an affectionate nickname - the Wet Coast. And it was starting to rain before we left the building with only heavier rains in the forecast. I'm not sure I have ever been more wet in my life, even in the shower. After 7 hours in constant rain I was soaked to the core, and happy about it. There were waterfalls everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Along the cliff faces of the valley, throughout the glacier itself. You could not look in any direction without seeing a waterfall. If anyone gets the opportunity to hike a glacier, do it. This was unlike anything I'd ever experienced before.
I'm quite used to walking on snow and even some ice (Kingston got its fair share of ice storms), but, this was surreal. It looked like snow, but you didn't sink, it felt like ice, but you didn't slip (due to crampons). All I had to do was step with a little more force than usual to get the crampons to 'bite' into the glacier. And so we climbed higher and higher. Generally, there were steps cut into the near vertical face of the glacier with tie-in lines to make sure you don't fall into a crevasse (Don't worry mom, I made it back alive - and only 1 person has ever died doing this, in the recorded history). And the guide checks everything thoroughly before your spikes even hit it. This is something that should not be missed. Up and down, no problems, except for the giant puddle that my day pack had become.
It was a very mutual decision to stay in hostel tonight. Mattresses, warm bedding, dry clothes and a hot shower were in desperate need. And lucky us, laundry and free internet! Everything is coming up Mike!
Franz Josef Glacier - what I climbed today.
previous travel blog entry
Haley says:
Hey Mike, Sounds like a great adventure. I can appreciate glaciers!! I hope that you are having a great time. Keep the updates coming. I am living vicariously through my travelling friends. xo Haley