kate n adam in nams Blog on RealTravel

Chau Doc journal: Day 4 - boat trip to Phnom Penh

Sat, 19 Jan 2008 19:16:55 GMT

Bright and early start again, this time for an all-day slow boat up the mighty Mekong and into Cambodia. It's the only way to do the delta!

Our slow boat turned out to be somewhat of a marathon experience. Leaving Chau Doc at 6:30am, we didn't arrive in Phnom Penh until 6:30pm! This is despite the travel agents telling you that you will arrive at 4pm - they sneak in an extra 1.5 hour bus leg into the journey, so you end up taking 2 boats and a bus.

Before we left Chau Doc, we were treated to a tour of a floating village, which make their livelihoods from fish farms. The farms are ...

Phnom Penh journal: Day 5 - Phnom Penh

Tue, 15 Jan 2008 03:48:39 GMT

Phnom Penh has to be the only city where the cops ride around in black landcruisers, and where you can spot a dude on the back of a scooter carrying an IV drip that's plugged into his wrist!

We relented to the endless touts at our hotel, and agreed for one of the guys who worked there to take us on a tuk tuk tour of the city. At least it meant that when we set out, there were no cries of "You like Tuk Tuk?" from other jealous drivers. Racing through the city on a tuk tuk is a good way to see it - its a little more laid back than HCMC, but I swear there were more cars than motorbikes this ...

Nha Trang journal: Days 25 & 26 - Nha Trang

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:52:44 GMT

To those readers who have noticed my increasing frustration in constantly getting overcharged for stuff and ripped off - and I'm not talking about in the markets where you can actually haggle the price, which Adam and I have spent the past four weeks perfecting.

I'm talking about those times when you know how much you owe, there are advertised prices, but they somehow think that they can slip stuff past you and get you to cough up for some more dong.

This pretty much sums up our experience in Nha Trang - rip off, after rip off. Sick of this happening to us (and it has happened by ...

Nha Trang journal: Day 24 - Nha Trang

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:50:19 GMT

Ahh Nha Trang - this leg of the trip promised so much, yet delivered so little. The first problem is beyond the skanky beachside town's control - the weather was absolutely crap the whole time - it was so windy that sitting anywhere near the beach was totally uncomfortable, and in the rough conditions with choppy swell breaking right on the shore, swimming was out of the question.

The second problem was that we arrived on about 2 hours terrible "bus" sleep on New Years' Eve - so we really had to try and talk ourselves into a party mood. Sleeping all day, we nearly achieved this until we ...

Hoi An journal: Days 22 & 23 - Hoi An

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:43:34 GMT

Having hired scooters again, on the second day we set course for the nearby beach. Running for kilometres and kilometres - all the way to Da Nang apparently - it was dotted with thatch cabanas operated by nearby restaurants. You had to pay to sit on a sunlounge under a cabana - a concept that as an Aussie I really detest - but it was worth it for the beachside service - you can get pretty much anything you want without budging from your post.

There was a bit of surf, but due to the winds it was pretty choppy. Even though the weather had been cloudy on the previous few days, it magically ...

Hoi An journal: Day 21 - Hoi An

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:39:51 GMT

We set off early on a three-hour bumpy bus ride to Hoi An - even though the bus driver announced it was a direct trip, it didn't stop him from cruising around nearby Da Nang for at least an hour, randomly picking up and dropping off groups of locals. Eventually we made it to Hoi An, and we were fortunate enough to score an $8 room at the hotel where the bus dropped us off, which was only a few hundred metres away from the centre of town.

Arriving in Hoi An was like taking a trip back in time a few hundred years. The architecture is completely different to the gaudy concrete-clad rest of ...

Hue journal: Day 20 - Hué

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:37:32 GMT

Exhausted from the overnight bus trip - my first ever so I really wasn't used to it - we took it easy for the first few hours in the ancient former capital before venturing out to hire scooters to explore the citadel. This time we rented a moto each, and I took a crash course by riding rings around the town centre - initially I was too afraid to wade into the traffic to make left turns, but once I figured out all the gears and controls, I quickly gained confidence to "ride like an Asian" - weave in and out of the bicycles, motos, fruit carts, cyclos, rickshaws, cars and the odd bus, toot the ...

Halong Bay journal: Days 17-19 - Ha Long Bay

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:36:27 GMT

At the behest of our pushy hotel staff, we booked a three-day tour through their company to Ha Long bay. We set out early in a mini-bus, to convey us to Ha Long city, which of course they packed to the gills. Adam had to arrange his legs in a weird V-shape in order to fit into the tiny seats, and as a result I was squished almost sideways off to one side.

The trip took four hours to reach Ha Long city, after which we were herded onto one of about a thousand brown junk boats all moored in a curious heap to the docks. The boat was surprisingly spacious - luckily for Adam it had heaps of ...

Hanoi journal: Day 16 - Hanoi

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:32:35 GMT

The ladies who run the Manh Dung guesthouse, a six-storey establishment tucked into a tiny laneway in the Old Quarter, are ostensibly charming, helpful and friendly, until you realise it's a ploy to get you to spend more money.

No sooner than we had arranged a room, and were asked to pay upfront in full, they start asking "where you go tomorrow?" in a bid to get you to book one of their tours, as well as train and bus tickets. They even advertise breakfast and laundry services, lest you dare think of going anywhere else. It's so hard to say no, even to tell them that you don't want to ...

Luang Prabang journal: Days 14 & 15 - Luang Prabang

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:29:55 GMT

Nearing the halfway point of our trip, and with a moderately difficult hill trek under our belts, it was time for some detente as we continued to lap up the vibrant, heady atmosphere of Luang Prabang. It's the kind of town in which you can wander around aimlessly, doing nothing in particular and still have heaps to see and do.

Our activities on these two days sort of blended into one, but I seem to remember (and so does my overflowing bag) at least two further trips to the night markets, a nice pedicure for $5 and a stroll all the way along the Mekong riverside until it hits the Nam ...

Luang Prabang journal: Day 13 - Luang Prabang

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:29:16 GMT

One day trek to visit Hmong hill tribes, about an hour's drive south of Luang Prabang.

We'd originally wanted to do a 2-day trek, which included an overnight homestay in a traditional hill tribe village and a visit to a waterfall, but unfortunately we needed another two souls to join us otherwise we'd be up for about double the price. So we decided to cut our losses and join a one day trek, run by Green Discovery tours.

Our Laotian guides were extremely informative, and told us all about cultural life in Laos - the reach of the communist government, the education system, the ...

Vang Vieng journal: Day 9 - Vang Vieng

Wed, 09 Jan 2008 22:07:04 GMT

Another random lao transport experience – we were told to be at the travel agent at 9 for a 9:30 bus, but it turned out to be 9:30 for a 10am bus – then the tuk tuk driver taking us to the bus stop was another20 minutes late. But this gave us the opportunity to have breakfast at a delicious bakery café across the road – we got a slice of quiche, ham and cheese croissant, banana bread, coffee and coke for about $6. Finally the tuk tuk guy shows up, we all pile in only to realize that the bus stop is only about 200 metres down the road, so we could easily have walked there ourselves.

The ...

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) journal: Day 26 - Ho Chi Minh

Wed, 09 Jan 2008 22:04:10 GMT

Battered and beaten by exhaustion, we emerged from the stuffy sleeping seats of our overnight bus to the mayhem of Ho Chi Minh's backpacker district. The plan was to grab a hotel room for the day to stash our stuff, and grab some kip if needed before our overnight plane flight in 12 hours' time.

A tout lady was offering a $15 room, which was $5 cheaper than the one we'd reserved, and only 10 metres away from where the bus stopped. To our delight the guesthouse was located on top of an STA Travel office, next door to our bus company's "Brother's Cafe" - after all we'd been through with ...

Luang Prabang journal: Amazingly friendly people - great hospitality

Sat, 22 Dec 2007 22:20:07 GMT

Not only was this place immaculately appointed - the shower even had a shower curtain, which is really rare. New, comfy beds, nice doonas, clean walls and floors, air con and cable TV. The price was $35, but we thought that was a bit much, and were actually going to check out other places but fortunately, the desire to leave is your best bargaining tool in Laos - so we got the room for $25 instead.

But what really makes the difference to this place is the family who runs it - every single one is polite, pleasant, helpful and they go out of their way to ensure you're having a great stay. ...

Luang Prabang journal: Nice and quiet

Thu, 20 Dec 2007 06:26:49 GMT

Sok dee is a street back from the riverbank, tucked away down an alley way. For $12 per night, this place is a steal - the beds are super comfy, with plush pillows and doonas, and the whole room is wood panels and wood beams, with a big, effective ceiling fan. Shower left a bit to be desired.

Luang Prabang journal: Wholesome Indian comfort food

Thu, 20 Dec 2007 06:26:47 GMT

For a measly $11, we enjoyed samosa (although filled with mutton rather than lamb), cashew pakora, butter chicken and chicken korma. Friendly staff, who appear to be Malaysian Indian. Delicious!

Luang Prabang journal: Day 12 - Luang Prabang

Thu, 20 Dec 2007 06:26:45 GMT

Determined to downshift after our hectic first week, Luang Prabang is the perfect place to do so. It's like the whole town has been stuck in a beautiful heritage time-warp - stately french colonial shops that look straight out of normandy, relatively quiet streets and oodles of luscious vegetation.

Our day's activities consisted of: sleeping in, a big breakfast by the river, massages, shopping, a bit of a walk for good measure, and by then the night markets had begun to open up, so more shopping. I think its possible that Luang Prabang has the best markets in the world - rivalling even ...

Luang Prabang journal: Day 11 - Bus to Luang Prabang

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 19:15:12 GMT

The bus was ostensibly a 10am service, but because they’d overbooked, an overflow of travelers milled around the entrance once all the seats had been taken. Luckily we scored front row – much more legroom and a better view of the scenery. We were right about the larger vehicle being a smoother ride, but neglected to take into account the extra weight which meant the bus didn’t go much faster than 30km/h through the steep, windy mountain passes. The scenery almost made up for it – limestone karst cliffs eventually made way for steep, forest covered emerald hills, some of which I noticed had ...

Vang Vieng journal: Coolest activity ever!

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 19:05:53 GMT

I can't believe they haven't thought of this in Australia yet! Basically you jump into a big inner tube and float downstream, past the beautiful limestone mountains and sandy river banks, over the odd patch of rapids.

And if that's not enough excitement for you - the water does travel quite slowly in parts - you can stop at any one of a myriad of makeshift thatch and bamboo bars along the way. Enjoy a beer lao or a ubiquitous south east asian whisky bucket, or take one away with you back to the tube.

An enormously fun, but entirely messy day - we didn't make it the length of the ...

Vang Vieng journal: Day 10 - Vang Vieng

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 19:05:52 GMT

We eschewed the more adventurous pursuits of rock climbing, caving and kayaking for a decidedly novel idea – tubing. The concept is this – you jump into a big inner tube and go floating down the river, which carries you downstream at a nice easy pace, with a few gentle rapids thrown in. Sounds like a simple, relaxing experience, right? But that’s until you spot the various bars dotted along the river. You float down, and they throw ropes out to you and pull you in, and you clamber out and go and sit up on a bamboo balcony and enjoy a beer lao, or if that’s not enough, a whisky bucket – that’s ...

Vang Vieng journal: Happy madness

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 18:59:18 GMT

If you want magic and happiness, this is your perfect place. Just ask to see the special menu, it will blow both your tastebuds and your mind!

Vientiane journal: Budget baby

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 04:54:41 GMT

At $5 per night and located a stone's throw from the riverbank, the Mixay is great value - but be prepared for a rock-hard mattress and makeshift curtains. The construction site next door was just plain unlucky - luckily we weren't planning on sleeping in.

Vientiane journal: They lure you in with live prawns, but the rest of the food is pretty average

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 04:54:40 GMT

This is a great place to dine - a whole row of makeshift restaurants set up along the banks of the Mekong. Near the roadside, they've got buckets of fresh live seafood - huge prawns and various types of fish - but when you sit down you find out that anything fresh will cost you - $5 per prawn! So you settle on a seafood noodle dish for $2, only to find out that these are the same dodgy frozen prawns that you find everywhere else. Oh well, the atmosphere makes up for it - even if the clouds of mosquitoes don't

Vientiane journal: Day 8 - Vientiane

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 04:54:35 GMT

Catching the 10am flight to Vientiane required us to be at the airport 1.5 hours in advance. This was fine - it was only a short tuk tuk ride from town. We checked in and went to a cafe for brekky, but only a short time later (and well before the stated boarding time), an attendant hounded us out of our seats, telling us we were running late and that everyone was waiting for us. This was our first experience of Lao randomness, which would repeat itself everytime we attempted to use any form of transport.

Our flight - a propellor plane - had to stop halfway and refuel at a southern Lao ...

Siem Reap journal: Temples of Angkor

Fri, 14 Dec 2007 02:49:09 GMT

Being here is a million more amazing than any photo could be - it's unbelievable that these people managed such a feat 800 years ago. It's not just the hundreds of tonnes of stone that were carted in by elephants, or the huge moats that were dug before dredging was invented, or even the enormity of the place. It's the intricacy of the stone carvings, the immaculate detail spreading from the floor, through every wall, up to the ceilings and even covering the spires of the wats.

The constant hubub of locals trying to sell you stuff does detract a little from the experience, but it is so ...

Siem Reap journal: Day 7 - Angkor Wat

Fri, 14 Dec 2007 02:49:08 GMT

Some people take a leisurely week to discover Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples, but we decided to take it all in in just one day.

Hiring a tuk tuk guide, we set off from Shadow of Angkor at 8am - already, the main entrance was beginning to pack out with tourists of all nationalities - Japanese, Korean, Chinese, French, Germans, Americans, Canadians, Thais and a handful of locals.

We began at the central collection of temples dotted around Angkor Thom. By far the most impressive is the Bayon, built by King Jayavaraman VII as his state temple. It contains endless numbers of ...

Siem Reap journal: Mid-range bliss

Thu, 13 Dec 2007 03:37:55 GMT

Nice place - aircon room for $US15. Friendly staff, not too pushy.

Siem Reap journal: Day 6 - Boat to Siem Reap

Thu, 13 Dec 2007 03:37:53 GMT

A wretchedly early start today so that we could make the 7am boat to Siem Reap. This time it was an express boat, although it still took nearly 6 hours. Despite the frenetic pace at which the boat travelled, we were still allowed to sit on the roof, which was curved and only had a small hand-rail. We spent much of the journey getting absolutely roasted by the sun on the glaring white roof, and arrived in Siem Reap very red and shiny indeed - we had no access to our sunburn cream while on the boat!

We ignored the signs that had my name mis-spelt on them (our PP hotel had phoned them ...

Phnom Penh journal: A chilling reminder

Thu, 13 Dec 2007 03:26:18 GMT

The thing that blows me away the most about the disgusting genocide is that firstly it happened in my lifetime, and secondly that nobody knew about it, not even most Khmers. The irony is that the US bombed the absolute crap out of Cambodia and Laos just a few years earlier. I can't help thinking that if the US had shown a different type of leadership in the region, perhaps pesants like Pol Pot wouldn't have been tempted to overrun the place and descend it into hell.

Chau Doc journal: The name says it all

Thu, 13 Dec 2007 02:48:30 GMT

A well-situated place on the lake in Phnom Penh, the staff are friendly and the food is good. Also they are generous with their weed! The only drawback is that the staff are constantly trying to organise things for you - they really put the hard word on you to take a tour with them in a tuk tuk, or to book a boat or bus - also they do you a tab at the guesthouse, which I know some people like, but I find you are tempted to spend more than you normally would, and instead of going out for food you just get lazy and eat there.

But for the money - $US4 per night - it's definitely worth it!

Chau Doc journal: Day 3 - Mekong Delta

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 04:27:07 GMT

Left HCMC bright and early bound for the Mekong delta. But this first involved getting out of the city. Thinking that it may actually be safer in a mini-van than on foot, I was quickly proved wrong as we were ferried from the tourist office to the Mien Tay bus station, south of town. The further away from the centre we got, the proportion of buses and trucks versus scooters inexorably increased.

It was all fine going straight ahead down wide boulevards, until we hit these enormous roundabouts, big enough to rival the arc de triomphe. Here, 3 tonne trucks gracefully serenaded cars and ...

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) journal: Day 2 - Ho Chi Minh

Tue, 11 Dec 2007 19:41:46 GMT

Awaking early, we headed out for a walk before breakfast to get our bearings. The first few street crossings were, predictably, a hair-raising experience. Adam, anxious to ensure that I was OK, kept pausing and turning around as we waded through the throngs of scooters. Each time he did this, chaos ensued and we quickly found ourselves enveloped in a sea of scooters, horns tooting in unison. In the end, we opted to cross separately.

Ho Chi Minh. What a city, what a lady. It somehow manages to combine crazy Asian buzz with European serenity. Impossibly tall trees line the busy, ...