Barbara & Daves Blog on RealTravel

Oaxaca City journal: Oaxaca

Tue, 05 Feb 2008 07:46:41 GMT

Oaxaca, pronounced Wa-hacka, was founded by the Spanish in 1521 (they called it Antequera) on the site of a Zapotec and Mixtec settlement. By 1796 it had become the third largest city in Nueva Espana, and grew rich thanks to the export of cochineal and textile production. However in 1854 an earthquake destroyed much of the city, and a further earthquake in 1931 left 70% of the city uninhabitable.

Oaxaca is about 500kms south east of Mexico City, and sits at 1600m. The population today is over 250,000 but this colonial town still retains a real charm and has some great architecture.

Mexico City journal: Mexico City - we've come full circle. (incomplete)

Fri, 01 Feb 2008 10:11:21 GMT

The journey back to Mexico City two days ago was rather scenic, passing through landscapes which would not look out of place in a John Wayne western. Vast plains of desert stretch to distant craggy mountains, and at one point we were surrounded on all sides by a vast expanse of cacti - the tall slim ones, which for the most part only had one or two leaves!

Shortly afterwards the landscape changed again and we were in sight of vast volcanoes.

Throughout the journey we were regularly amused by a lady and her daughter who were sitting in front of us, as they took turns to push a giant ...

San Cristobal de Las Casas journal: San Cristóbal - brrrrrrrr!

Wed, 16 Jan 2008 10:57:31 GMT

We had heard a few days ago that a cold front was approaching and it arrived with a vengance today. Thank Heavens we packed our cold weather kit. Not all the tourists seemed to be as well prepared however, as many were seen buying blankets, ponchos and silly hats from the market traders and hawkers around the square.

We noticed that the local population have some very "trendy" cold weather gear - the men seem to wear gorilla jackets, and the women gorilla skirts and ponchos - see picture! Don't think it will catch on back home though, so we resisted the temptation to buy them. Many local ...

Teotihuacan journal: Teotihuacan - city of the Gods.

Wed, 16 Jan 2008 10:53:37 GMT

The guide books all tell us that this is a must-see site - and rightly so. The sheer scale of the site is awe-inspiring, and demands a good deal of energy and most of the day. The central axis along which all the main buildings are laid out, known as the Avenue of the Dead, is over 2 kms long and there are no trees under which to shelter from the heat of the day.

The Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon were the earliest structures to be built on this site, around 1-150 AD. Most of the rest of the structures which are visible on the site today were built around 200-400 AD, and ...

Monte Alban journal: Monte Alban

Wed, 16 Jan 2008 04:48:36 GMT

The cheapest and easiest way to get to Monte Alban from Oaxaca is to take one of the hourly buses that depart from the Hotel Rivera del Angel, at Mina 518 in Oaxaca, starting at 0830 and departing every hour thereafter until lunchtime. You must go into the office at the back of the car park to buy your ticket, and do book a day ahead if you can as the buses do get busy. The journey to the site takes about 20 minutes.

If you go on the 0930 bus, then you are obliged to come back on the 1300 bus, and this time is written on your return ticket. Seat numbers are allocated, so if you do want ...

Oaxaca City journal: Great value, a stone's-throw from the Zocalo

Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:40:41 GMT

Very friendly reception staff, comfortable and spacious room with clean bathrooms and plenty of hot water. Great value for money and very central. 345 pesos per night for a double. Free coffee in the morning.

Papantla journal: El Tajín

Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:40:41 GMT

The net curtains on our bedroom window ensured an early wake up, and we headed out on a local bus to El Tajín, which dates from the Classic period (300 - 900 AD). When we visited it was free on a Sunday...just 35 pesos for your video.

(Please note: the rules regarding free entry to sites in Mexico has changed from 2008 - now it is only Mexican Nationals and anyone who has permanent residency in Mexico who can benefit from the "free on Sunday" rule. All other foreigners have to pay.

The most interesting building on the site is the Pyramid of the Niches, a 6-tiered structure, with a ...

Papantla journal: Papantla

Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:52:17 GMT

Our last morning in Mexico City, and we awoke to a blackout - so we showered in total darkness, a novel experience for someone who likes her hairdryer!

On the move again and the bus to Papantla took us out through the shanty towns on the outskirts of the city. However soon we had escaped the smog and noise of the city and saw Teotihuacan in the distance (we´ll visit that on our return in 5+ weeks time.) A scenic 6 hour ride passing through small villages, amazing mountain scenery and lush forested areas.

On arrival at Papantla we had a tough 15 minute walk, all uphill, laden with ...

Valladolid journal: Valladolid and the site at Ek Balam

Fri, 11 Jan 2008 15:47:23 GMT

We arrived early at Valladolid after our sleepless night in Piste, see previous entry.

Valladolid was once called Zaci, and was a Maya ceremonial centre, until the Spanish arrived and renamed it after one of their own Spanish cities, Valladolid.

We headed for our chosen hotel, but ended up walking out on them after they procrastinated about which room we could have - even though all the rooms were full and we could not view our potential room. so we headed round the corner to the main square and the Maria de la Luz hotel, which turned out to be a real little gem. A nice quiet room ...

Mexico City journal: A little piece of luxury, just behind the Cathedral

Fri, 11 Jan 2008 14:07:44 GMT

A great little business level hotel, just two minutes from the Zocalo. We paid 503 pesos (£25 UK) for a double room, and benefitted from the 10% reduction offered for payment in cash. Very comfortable rooms and beds, strong shower, quiet location and good restaurant. Reception staff could not have been more friendly or helpful, although restaurant waiters were a little reserved.

San Cristobal de Las Casas journal: Good price and close to the main Plaza.

Sat, 05 Jan 2008 20:12:14 GMT

Clean and spacious rooms. Only downside is you have to go through the courtyard/restaurant in order to get to your room. Laundry can usually be done same day, often within a couple of hours. We paid 520 pesos per night for a double.

San Cristobal de Las Casas journal: Return to Mexico.

Sat, 05 Jan 2008 20:01:00 GMT

Our overnight stop in Huehue came about simply because on New Year's Day there was limited public transport, and stopping at Huehue would allow us to make it through the border and on to San Cristóbal de las Casas in Mexico the next day.

The day dawned sunny, but no sooner had we set off on another chicken bus heading for the border town of La Mesilla, than it started to rain. The backpacks were on top of the bus, and we had visions of them getting soaked through, Barbara's especially given that part of it now resembles a teabag.

We arrived at the border town of La Mesilla, about 3 ...

Chichicastenango journal: Chichi market day

Thu, 03 Jan 2008 18:22:09 GMT

The market starts at sun up, however we didn't quite make it for sun-up! After so many early starts we decided we needed a lie-in.

On approaching the market around 0900, we were surprised to find that we were practically the only tourists there, although the tourists did flood in from about 1100 onwards, as most just come to Chichi on day trips from other towns such as Antigua.

The quality of many of the goods on offer is surprisingly high and intricate and we bargained hard and before long had snapped up a few nice pieces of work. It's always difficult to get the price right, or ...

Panajachel journal: Panajachel, sunset over the lake.

Sat, 29 Dec 2007 15:27:23 GMT

We've moved to Panajachel on the edge of Lake Atitlán.

Pana, as it is often called, is a vert touristy resort town with no heart or endearing features. It's saving grace and greatest attraction is it location on the shore of Lake Atitlán.

We sat at a restaurant at the lakeside and watched as the sun started to set behind the three volcanoes which surround the lake; San Pedro (3020m), Atitlán (3537m), Tolimán (3158m).

The lake itself was formed 85,000 years ago after an enormous eruption caused a large area of land to collapse forming a deep depression which quickly filled ...

Antigua journal: Antigua Guatemala

Sat, 29 Dec 2007 15:11:46 GMT

The Spaniards made the current day Antigua the capital of Guatemala on 15 March 1543, but then it was called La muy Noble y muy Leal Ciudad de Santiago de los Caballeros de Goathemala.

In 1773 the city was destroyed by a major earthquake so that in 1776 the capital was transferred to Guatemala City. Antigua was plundered for building materials for the new capital, although it started to grow again in 1830 and by then was known as La Antigua Guatemala, the Old Guatemala.

Today you can see many ruined churches and monasteries. In 1979 UNESCO declared Antigua a World Heritage site.

Antigua journal: Return to Guatemala.

Thu, 27 Dec 2007 17:50:54 GMT

We made an early start this morning (honest) as we wanted to get across the border and down to Antigua in Guatemala today, and since we were using public transport and chicken buses there was no way of knowing just how long the journey was going to take. We had thought that we could get a shuttle minibus across to Antigua, but when we checked last night we found that all the seats were booked, (it wasn't going to leave until 1300 anyway so Plan A was not ideal) so we resorted to Plan B.

We caught the colectivo to the border town of El Florido, where once again we had to go through ...

Antigua journal: Great views of the volcano

Thu, 27 Dec 2007 17:46:00 GMT

Big bright room right on the top floor. Plenty of hot water, two big beds, loads of space, friendly reception and service. Lots of character in this hotel, especially the spiral staircase. All rooms are not a nice as this one, but they seem to cost the same, so do look at a few. We paid $40 US per night, and this has not changed since 2003, nor have they increased the price for high season, unlike another one which we tried first.

Copan Ruinas journal: No turkey, just birds on Christmas Day.

Wed, 26 Dec 2007 18:18:00 GMT

Woke up to find that Santa had not been able to track us down to Honduras. Alas! Or maybe we hadn't been good this year...!

We decided to go to the Macaw Mountain Park today, just to have a lazy time and relax on Christmas Day. So even though we have seen many bright and colourful birds on our travels so far, we wanted to be able to get "up close and personal" with birds from this region.

So off we headed up the hill on the 2.5kms towards the sanctuary. We got some strange looks from the locals, who clearly don't see the gringos walking this route very often. What started off as a ...

Copan journal: Copan, history carved in stone.

Wed, 26 Dec 2007 17:29:29 GMT

We walked the 1km to the Copan ruins archaeological site. this site is unlike the others we have seen this far in that the stelae are very well preserved.

We were met at the entrance by resplendent coloured macaws basking in the morning sun. They seemed to enjoy performing to the visitors as they entered the site, and Barbara burned through about 100 photos even before she had entered the park. Good job it's digital or it would cost us a small fortune.

UNESCO declared Copan a World Heritage Site in 1980 and then in 1982 Honduras declared it a National Monument.

Copan occupies ...

Copan Ruinas journal: Guatemala to Honduras for Christmas

Wed, 26 Dec 2007 16:54:30 GMT

Rio Dulce

We had been assured that the direct bus from Rio Dulce to El Florido (border post for Guatemala and Honduras) is never fulll and that we didn't need to prebook and reserve seats. So when the bus pulled in packed to the gills, we realised that we had been given a bum steer.

Anyhow, the conductor put our backpacks on the bus and we climbed on, resigned to standing for most of the journey! Meanwhile the conductor passed down the bus asking people where they were getting off and returned to us and informed us that after about 5 kms we would have a seat!

The bus set off ...

Fronteras journal: Rio Dulce

Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:35:09 GMT

Friday 21 December 2007

We decided to head south east to Rio Dulce, and then push on into Copan Ruinas in Honduras for Christmas.

We had enquired at the Info office in Tikal about buses to Santa Elena the previous evening, and the times did not work for us, so he suggested we book a special colectivo (minibus) which would pick us up from the hotel and take us there.

As promised the bus did pick us up at 0800 and we set off. The driver then headed to one of the other hotels where he picked up 6 workers, so the bus started to fill up fast. No sooner had we left the gates of the ...

Fronteras journal: Great location on the lake, but still in town

Sat, 22 Dec 2007 15:47:52 GMT

Service is slow, and sometimes almost non existent. But they are friendly and the room is nice, with a balcony and hammock. Nice soap in bathroom and air con and fan are effective. 250 Q's per night for double, breakfast is extra but cheap (30 Q's) and very big portions.

Tikal journal: Tikal - day 2.

Fri, 21 Dec 2007 18:42:48 GMT

Tikal

By the dawn of the early classic period, around 250 AD, Tikal had become an important religious cultural and commercial city with a large population. By the midle of the Classic period, in the 6th century AD, Tikal's military prowess and its association with Teotihuacan allowed it to grow until it covered an area over 30 sq kms, and had a population exceeding 100,000.

Its greatness waned around 900 AD as part of the mysterious collapse of lowland Mayan civilisation.

Tikal differs from many other Mayan sites in that it is set deep in the jungle.

Tikal National ...

Tikal journal: Tikal - pyramids deep in the jungle

Fri, 21 Dec 2007 18:10:21 GMT

Early start today - 5.45am wake up - as we wanted to catch the sunrise over Tikal. We ended up being the first people into the Grand Plaza at the centre of the Tikal ruins and climbed Temple II. Unfortunately it was cloudy and cold, but you could see for miles all around. We sat looking down on the Plaza and directly across to the mystical Temple I (you can not climb this one) as parrots shrieked nearby and a Montezuma Oropendola sat in the tree tops and graced us with its chorus - a conversational bubbling followed by loud gurgles, tic-tic-glik-glak -GLUUuuuuu (description courtesy of ...

Tikal journal: Into Guatemala

Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:07:02 GMT

Caught the local bus from San Ignacio to Benque Viejo, near the border, from where we took a taxi 2 kms to the border post. At the Belize border control you have to fill in a questionnaire of about 20 questions, all relating to your stay in the country. We paid 37.5 $Bz to leave the country, then got a receipt and a stamp in our passports at another desk.

We dashed across the 150m of no-mans-land to the Guatemalan Immigration post, filled in the Immigration form which the lady did not even look at and then she gave us a 30 day stamp to stay in Guatemala.

We decided to take the ...

Tikal journal: Lights out by 10pm

Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:59:19 GMT

Expensive for what you get, but the location is excellent. Service is surly, and poor. The food package, breakfast and evening meal, seems good value, but the menu choices never changed in the 3 nights we were there ... and you are only allowed 1 cup of coffee or tea for breakfast - no seconds.

San Ignacio journal: Xunantunich on a shoe string

Mon, 17 Dec 2007 18:20:02 GMT

Today we went to another Mayan site near to San Ignacio called Xunantunich. To get there we caught the local chicken bus for Benque and got off at the hand cranked ferry stop. The bus cost 1 $Bz each, however for some unknown reason it cost us 1.5 $Bz to return in the afternoon, even though we had walked part of the way home!

On the 60 second river crossing, we spotted a large iguana sitting up a tree.

Walking the 2kms (1.2 miles) uphill to the site, we passed a myriad of colourful butterflies, dancing among the flowers at the roadside. It was nice to be out walking, although there ...

San Ignacio journal: San Ignacio by chicken bus

Sun, 16 Dec 2007 18:33:35 GMT

After sampling the best cinnamon danish, courtesy of the Radisson cafe, (no eggs today!) we donned our backpacks and headed back to the bus-station.

Our bus to San Ignacio was leaving at 10am. Today we were taking a "chicken bus" west across the country to close to the Guatemalan border. We reckoned that if we didn't like San Ignacio, we could quickly get over the border to Guatemala.

No sooner had we taken our seats on the bus that a strange local guy looked at Barbara and said he wanted to draw her. With so many other much prettier local girls we couldn't understand why, but had ...

San Ignacio journal: Best small hotel 2003

Sun, 16 Dec 2007 14:44:28 GMT

Really comfortable double bedroom, with fan, air con and en suite bathroom. 95 Belizean dollars per night (inc air con). or 60 Belizean dollars with fan only.

Belize City journal: From Mexico to Belize City

Sun, 16 Dec 2007 14:28:11 GMT

After a 6am wake up, we stocked up on our reserves at breakfast (eggs again) in anticipation of our long journey south to Belize. After being cosseted so far by the relative comfort provided by the Mexican ADO bus company, the Mayab Bus service that was to take us to the border with Belize was a bit less luxurious. What, no DVD and no toilet.

A fairly uneventful journey, passing through some real poverty-stricken villages, where families lived in houses resembling woods shacks, huddled by the side of the road.

After 5.5 hours, we reached Chetumal, just on the Mexican side of the ...

Belize City journal: The fish balls are off the menu

Sun, 16 Dec 2007 14:17:06 GMT

We ordered our meals and drinks, only to be told 10 minutes later that the fish balls were off. So ordered "chicken fried pork" - note that there is no chicken in this dish, it "cooked the way we cook the chicken", we were told! Still, enormous portions, tasty, cooked well, and no after effects.

Belize City journal: A secure haven in the madness of Belize City

Sun, 16 Dec 2007 13:45:01 GMT

Clean, tidy, and safe. Powerful showers, the best in Belize. Highly recommended. Secure, as the main gate at street level is also locked all day and night. No air con but very powerful fans which sound like the Flybe planes taxiing at Belfast City Airport.

Valladolid journal: Worth every peso.

Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:39:54 GMT

Modern, comfortable, clean, aircon and a swimming pool. Right on the Zócalo, and only 40 pesos more for a full hot breakfast, eat as much as you want/can. 400 pesos for double with aircon.

Chichen Itza journal: Don't stay here if you want a good night's sleep

Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:31:51 GMT

Clean and tidy. That's all that can be said. Trucks roar past from about midnight onwards - it would be quieter on the runway at Heathrow!

Chichen Itza journal: Chichen Itza

Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:30:41 GMT

It is thought that Chichen Itza was established around 300 AD and began to flourish between 800 and 925 AD. This site has all the signs of mass human sacrifice and glorification of military activity, leading to the belief held by many that the city was invaded by the Toltecs around this time. This fusion of Maya and Totlec culture is evident at the site, where imagery of the Toltec Quetzalcoatl (Kukulcan in Maya) and Chac-Mool (the Maya rain god) are both found.

Chichen Itza was abandoned in the 14th century, the reasons for which are still a mystery.

Having now visited many other ...

Uxmal journal: Uxmal - Puuc architecture at its best.

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 20:39:05 GMT

Late start today, not many of those recently, and we headed to the 2nd class bus station on the edge of town. With 2 tickets to Uxmal, and 82 pesos less in our pockets, we headed for the site.

There's no "official" stop for the Uxmal site, so we trusted the driver and got off when he stopped the bus, shouted "UXMAL" while pointing to the road on the right.

The price displayed on the board at the entrance states that is costs 45 pesos to go in. However when you buy your ticket you end up paying 95 pesos, 45 for the official ticket, and seemingly 50 pesos for a day-glow wrist band ...

Merida journal: That´s one way to carry beer!

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:35:37 GMT

At 2100, Monday night, at the Zócalo, free show featuring local dancing. Really entertaining and impressive beer

Merida journal: A calm oasis

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:35:36 GMT

Clean tidy big rooms. Good atmosphere. Friendly staff. Continental Breakfast included.

Merida journal: Puuc architecture at its very best

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:35:36 GMT

Fantastic site, really worth visiting. Do allow at least 4 hours at this site, more if you have the time.

Merida journal: Mérida

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:35:36 GMT

After a 3 hour bus journey from Campeche, we arrived in Mérida. Contrary to our expectations, this has turned out to be the friendlist city so far on our travels. Everyone wants to talk, and offer information free of charge, without even a hint of wanting to sell you something. They have a special knack of embellishing their stories which has a charm all of its own.

When the Spanish conquistadors entered T'ho (as Mérida was then known) in 1542, they found that the lime-mortared buildings reminded them of the Roman architecture of Mérida in Spain, so they renamed the city Mérida.

T ...

Campeche journal: Campeche, the walled city

Tue, 11 Dec 2007 10:22:48 GMT

Campeche is now a World Heritage site, and justifiably so. It´s a low-rise town, where the houses are painted in a wide spectrum of beautiful pastel colours. With its narrow cobbled streets, and relaxed atmospehere it is a joy to relax in and walk around.

Because most travellers seem to bypass Campeche, it is less commercial and seems a lot less touristy that many other Yucatan towns.

Campeche started life as a Mayan trading village called Ah Kim Pech, (Lord Sun Sheep-Tick). After several unsuccessful attempts by the Spanish Conquistadores to conqueror the city, they finally gained ...

Palenque journal: Palenque: Mayan marvel

Tue, 11 Dec 2007 08:55:40 GMT

Arriving from Villahermosa on the ADO bus, we chose to stay at Margarita & Ed´s cabañas, set on the road to the Palenque ruins. El Panchán is like a village of cabañas, set in the jungle, and only 1.5kms to the ruins. It's hot and very humid. We´re staying here for 3 days to have time to explore Palenque and some of the other ruins in this area.

Palenque

Founded around 100BC, but flourished from around 630AD to 740 AD under the rule of Pakal. This site bears closer resemblance to sites in Guatemala, than to the other sites on the Yucatan.

One of the most impressive ...

Palenque journal: El Panchán

Mon, 10 Dec 2007 18:34:26 GMT

Excellent. Very friendly. Not bargain basement, 350 pesos for double with air con but worth it. Clean and very tidy. Recommended highly.

Villahermosa journal: Villahermosa - an unscheduled stop

Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:53:09 GMT

As were were leaving the Aquarium in Veracruz, an elderly lady offered to read Barbara's palm, and promised to bring her good luck. Not really believing in such things, the offer was politely declined!

(On 4 December) We left Veracruz on the overnight "sleeper" service to Villahermosa, (although we have since renamed it the "not a wink of sleep" service) the plan being to catch a connecting bus out to Palenque the same day. What should have been a 7 hour journey, ended up being a 5.45 hour journey, such was the reckless abandon with which the driver sped us to Villhermosa. Montezuma - or ...

Villahermosa journal: Expensive for what it offers

Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:34:30 GMT

Montezuma struck on arrival here, so we decamped to the nearest hotel, and this was it, right opposite the ADO bus station. Beds were the lumpiest I have ever tried to sleep on. Seems to be frequented by men, probably oil workers, or maybe those helping with reconstruction. Restaurant was still closed at time of staying here, 5 Dec 07. If you have the energy, go elsewhere. Staff were polite though so no complaints there. Aircon not very efficient, and the room at the front was very noisy, seems to be noise in the street all night long.

Veracruz City journal: Veracruz

Fri, 07 Dec 2007 15:04:13 GMT

Papantla:

Awoke early, the skies looked ominous. We went for breakfast, eggs again.

On leaving the hotel to walk to the bus station the heavens opened, (think Noah) The locals dived for cover and smiled as the two Gringo drowned rats carried on regardless downhill to the station. The rivers of water flooded past us and pick-up trucks which were parked under the overhead gutters filled with water and started to resemble mobile swimming pools.

On reaching the station we offloaded our kit and then watched wryly as the locals demolished part of a wall in the bus garage to release ...

Mexico City journal: Mexico City

Sat, 01 Dec 2007 17:10:55 GMT

We arrived this evening (29th)...after 11 hour flight. Just glad to be on terra firma. Trip from hell in a taxi from the airport to the hotel - went via the Red Light district, so first impression is of a rather seedy city - but happy to say that there is a lot more to it than that.

We are staying on the main square (Zocalo), right opposite the Presidential Palace, and adjacent to the main Cathedral. The square is the third largest in the world, after Tiannamen (Beijing)) and Red Square (Moscow). In the centre of the square is a very LARGE flag.

It is now hosting a large Christmas ...

Mexico City journal: See the city for the price of a bus ticket

Sat, 01 Dec 2007 17:00:55 GMT

Four sore feet later.... we took the bus, the Turibus (patent pending apparently).

Toured a large part of the city in relative luxury, headsets thrown in! From the very posh areas of Zona Rosa and Polanco (Burberry, Gucci etc like Bond Street) to the more everyday areas with MacDonald´s and Radio Shack - can´t knock it as we had to pay a visit to buy battery chargers which would work with the half-hearted voltage here (only 110v).

Highlight of the day was the visit to the Anthropological Museum - one of the best museums in the world, for MesoAmerican artefacts, history and culture. ...

Windsor journal: Barbara & Dave's Mayan Adventures

Tue, 27 Nov 2007 11:55:01 GMT

We're putting this blog together to keep all of our family and friends abreast of what we are getting up to on our 6 week adventure to the Mayan heartlands in Central America. We're planning to visit southern Mexico, Guatemala, Belize and part of Honduras (we hope).

No package holiday to Cancun and burning on the beach. 2 gringos with backpacks and a thirst for adventure.