turutias Blog on RealTravel

Moana/Lake Brunner journal: Soon We will See the River and the Valley

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:44:23 GMT

This walk has one of the more interesting beginnings going through a very dark long tunnel and opening out onto a swing bridge across the Arnold River. From there it requires good hiking boots and watching your feet carefully to follow the narrow, steep, slippery track up the hill. Plunged in the bush and steadily climbing you are surrounded by native vegatation. The track is well marked though it appeared that it is not tramped all that often. The train guide alluded to a location on the track where you would be able to see (simultaneously) the Arnold River and the valley, possibly ...

Moana/Lake Brunner journal: Train Station Surprise

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:37:11 GMT

From the outside the Stationhouse Cafe is too far back from the street with a slanted carpark. It appears to be a converted home and on the inside resembles any English pub you find in New Zealand.

But the food in this establishment is outstanding. I had seafood chowder that contained heaps of real seafood (none of that weird red stuff sometimes refered to as crab meat) and Mark treated himself to venison with kumara mash and beetroot salad. The house wine was a lovely chardonnay from the Nelson region. All in all it was the best meal we had on the road in the most unlikely place.

Moana/Lake Brunner journal: Wekas to Go

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:32:28 GMT

Secluded lodge with stand alone cabins and motel like rooms with shared bathrooms and kitchen. The surroundings were lovely and it is less than 1KM from the township of Moana which borders Lake Brunner. It's relatively comfortable.

New Zealand journal: Top of the South

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:22:02 GMT

Discovering that two weeks on the North Island cannot do it justice, we were determined to do a better job on the South Island. This trip was to emcompass only selected areas of the west coast and top of the south and would take as long as it would take. Just a few locations were chosen and hostels were booked. Of course we did not take into account that this trip would coincide with Easter, which is sort of the last getaway holiday weekend for Kiwis before winter.

Whakatane journal: It's good they are looking after them, but where the hell are they.

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:33:50 GMT

On the road from Napier to Wellington we stopped in at the Pukaha Mt. Bruce National Wildlife Center for Captive Breeding. A mouthful to be sure but this reserve is set aside to preserve and breed New Zealand native plants and animals. Bear in mind that only birds and lizards are actually native animals in NZ, with every other creature being an introduced species. There is no hope in eliminating the non-natives, so the focus must be on preserving the natives. We didn't get to see many of the birds, they are shy and don't come out unless fed. But we did see the eels being fed and later the ...

Whakatane journal: Kitchens blur together

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:33:50 GMT

Fine, large with adequate surfaces for preparing meals. No better than some not as good as others (wait is that saying the same thing in different ways). Plenty of spices and free tea and coffee. Not a lot of fridge space.

Whakatane journal: Lockdown in Cuba District

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:33:50 GMT

The Wellywood Hostel in Wellington is in the heart of the art and music district of the city called the Cuba district. This accomodation is into security, locking their outside doors as 5:30PM presumably to keep homeless people out, and is plastered with many signs about theft, con men, rape, all the fun stuff. Definitely not our cup of tea.

Whakatane journal: Refuge From the Storm

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:33:50 GMT

The Windsor has recently opened as a backpackers and has the feel of a motel converted to backpackerswith former church thrown in. It was empty for the most part, had 3 long term residents, provided refuge from a raging rain storm and had possibly the nicest owners/hosts of any hostel we encountered on the North Island

Whakatane journal: Deco Hotel as Hostel

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:33:50 GMT

Downtown Napier prides itself on its Deco architecture and the Criterion Backpackers is an old deco style hotel made into a backpackers. It sits in the heart of downtown over the Criterion pub which may be a hopping joint when weather permits. But we were being chased by a huge storm and it was keeping the customers away. The Criterion is spacious with the most luscious red leather couches in the lounge, two TV rooms and a large kitchen

Whakatane journal: Convections Ovens to Go

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:33:49 GMT

The kitchen was adequate, but if they get more than a few visitors at a time it will need more of everything. It was very clean and new.

Whakatane journal: The Last Hurrah

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:33:49 GMT

Dashing ahead of a major storm, we zoomed down the North Island towards the ferry in a 4 day driving marathon. Yet in Napier we did take a tour of the National Aquarium (small but kind of interesting) and spent a couple of hours at the Pukaha Mt. Bruce National Wildlife Centre. We drove through sweeping valleys and perched on the edges of mountains lining deep gorges. The weather followed us all the way back to Wellington where we spent one last night before limping home, tired, dirty and spent. Just what everyone is looking for in a holiday.

Whitianga journal: The Coromandel

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 16:51:04 GMT

We are in Whitianga for Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach. We will not be distracted, we will not be stopped, we will not be delayed. We are now, for some reason, racing against the clock and must complete these tasks in 2 days and start the journey home. Don't ask, Mark's internal clock is running and he is becoming manic about going back. So here we are at On the Beach Backpackers, taking the last room available, stowing our food in the kitchen and meeting some of the other travelers. Among them is Anna, a nurse from Germany, who is spending her 6 week vacation traveling in New ...

Whitianga journal: Great Walk, Scenic Coves, Warm Water-Heaven

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 16:38:41 GMT

Just another great reason to visit or better yet live in New Zealand. Catherdral Cove is a 45 minute trail from a carpark past two other magnificent coves (Gem and Stingray). Gem Cove is rocky and boasts a reef offshore teeming with fish and sealife. Stingray Cove has a white sandy beach, warm water and virtually no visitors (all heading for Cathedral Cove instead I guess). Their loss, Stingray Cove is lovely. The arch at Cathedral Cove is goregous as the postcards of there clearly show (our pictures don't do it justice). This is a don't miss if you are in the area. The water is Carribean blue ...

Whitianga journal: Cooking was almost fun here

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 13:34:34 GMT

The kitchen is well equipped, very clean (it has it's own cleaning crew with T-shirts and everything) with two sinks, two stoves and plenty of dishes. People make a place, and everyone here is friendly and loved talking about their travels.

Whitianga journal: Tucked Away

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 13:34:34 GMT

After our misadventure at Hot Water Beach, morning tea was in order and we found nestled in the trees and hidden from the road, the Hot Water Beach Cafe. What a jewell, it is like a lot of cafes in New Zealand, done in chrome and dark wood, with homemade breakfast items, and truly good coffee. A lovely place for a cuppa.

Whitianga journal: When Low Tide is Not Low Enough

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 13:34:34 GMT

Hot Water Beach's claim is that at low tide you can dig holes that fill with the hot water from the thermal pools under the sand and enjoy a soak. However the tide needs to be really low for enough beach to be exposed. Best part was watching Mark frantically digging holes before a wave would come in and obliterate his efforts. Might be a lot of fun with the right conditions.

Whitianga journal: The Needle in the Haystack

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 13:34:33 GMT

Staying at the Beach Backpackers Lodge in Whitianga can lead to believe that hostels can be pleasant experiences. Located literally on the beach from the front window you can see the peninsula with Shakespeare's walk, swim in the ocean and view some amazing sunrises. It comprises two "houses", some self-contained units, and dorms. All are clean and comfortable. There are not silly rules about drinking and so I imbibed a bit, however when you don't deny people this pleasure, they don't overindulge. When we head back to the Coromandel, we will be staying here again.

Tauranga journal: Top of the World

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 11:50:16 GMT

"Are you lost" Confused, turned around, consulting the map to verify the directions, just resting.... yea we were lost. Stopping in a suburb of Tauranga we were consulting a map (picked up at a tourist center, but full of cartoon figures representing the highlights of the city and showing only the downtown roads) there was a tap on the driver's side window and a concerned woman asking to help. And despite our best efforts to tell her the best route to our destination, she gave us written directions through the city that avoided all the traffic and hassle of the expressway. Bless her.

Tauranga journal: My Socks are Sticking to the Floor

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 11:40:54 GMT

The kitchen here is under equipped, there is little space in the fridge, and boy is it dark. It does however have more spices than a grocery store and free tea and coffee. The dining room table is a long plank that is too close to the wall on one side and it is hard to sit there.

Tauranga journal: A 232 Metre High Gem

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 11:40:54 GMT

A tramp up Mt. Manganui is a real highlight of a visit to Tauranga. There are two tracks up the mountain, one labeled as moderate, the other labeled challenging. We took the harder track and while it is steep, it is well maintained with steps. On our return trip we started back down the moderate track and found it steeper and gravelly. Hiking shoes are a good idea, though I did see several young women in jandles making their way up and down. The views along the way and at the top are magnificent.

Tauranga journal: Only the Duck's Nuts

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 11:40:53 GMT

This hostel was rated the best in Tauranga in our brochure from the BBH (and association of hostels in New Zealand), but it didn't have much to offer. The kitchen was the darkest yet, it is not that clean, one of the bathtubs is planter, and the dining table is hard to use.

Rotorua journal: Slipping and Sliding

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 10:42:09 GMT

We zorbed in Rotorua. In the land of hot springs, mud pots, boiling waters, and the heart of Maori culture we jumped into a large plastic ball filled with water and rolled down a zig-zag track for about 2 minutes. It was screamingly fun.

Rotorua journal: It's clean and it shows

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 10:42:09 GMT

The kitchen was large, clean, well equipped with plenty of counter space, you could drink here and everything was new. Nice sinks, good stoves, two large refrigerators. Just a very pleasant experience.

Rotorua journal: The Brighter Side of Backpacking

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 10:42:09 GMT

Treks is a new purpose built backpackers that might not be the real experience for those travelers who want a dark and mysterious adventure , but for 50 somethings that want a clean room with an ensuite (small but functional), a large well equipped kitchen, cafeteria style eating, large lounges, and a secure carpark, it was perfect.

Rotorua journal: A Thermal Wonderland

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 10:42:09 GMT

Rotorua Lake is practically unusable. According to the literature 50 years ago this lake was crystal clear and a paradise for birds and people. Fast forward to today and you find an algae-clogged murky body of water done in by modern farming practices. There is an effort underway to clean the lake, but it will take time, lots of it. So sitting by the lake is possible, swimming and fishing in it, isn't.

We had booked into the 'Only Mexican-themed backpackers in New Zealand'. This place may be Mexican-themed but it is dark, dirty, cramped, worn out, with incredibly low ceilings. This ...

New Zealand journal: Two weeks in the North Island

Thu, 29 Mar 2007 11:12:47 GMT

Mark has quit his job and we have taken to the road.[1] We decided that traveling around New Zealand and Australia was a better use of our time and money than staying in one place while Mark toiled in misery. But the best laid plans of mice and men… not that we had well laid plans. I have always lobbied for more travel and less grindstone activity and Mark it seems has always dreamed of doing this traveling with a knapsack on his back. He agreed to the travel and I agreed to a knapsack (sort of). [2]

Our maiden voyage involved an elaborate scheme to see all of the North Island in two ...

Lake Taupo journal: On The Road To Taupo

Thu, 29 Mar 2007 01:08:59 GMT

The road to Taupo is like so many of New Zealand's roads, twisty, slow going, perched on the edges of cliffs, and narrow. This leg of the journey was a true meander with me consulting the "free stuff book" and Mark and I ignoring its information. We did however stop at Taihape to see the Big Gumboot. According to the book it is a part of something called "Gumboot Lane" and represents the annual Gumboot Throwing competition. "The record for chucking one of these rubber boots is 38.66m for men and 24.92m for women."

Having seen a gumboot throwing contest during a neighborhood get ...

Lake Taupo journal: Take a Dip in the River

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 19:55:28 GMT

The Spa Park track winds through a public park leading to natural hot springs where you cannot resist a dip, just to test your mettle if nothing else. The water coming out of the ground and spilling into the river must be at 40 degrees C (that's about 110 degrees F). This is not a secluded spot with lots of trampers and kayakers, and virtually no place to change into your togs. The river bed is rocky so some sort of water shoes help. It is invigorating. The falls as the end of the track are not spectacular in height, but are an amazing ice blue seen only in New Zealand. After a short potty ...

Lake Taupo journal: Silence is Golden

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 19:17:28 GMT

The kitchen at this hostel is big enough with cubbies for your dry goods and a large refrigerator. There are two cooktops and plenty of pots and pans. Only one sink though so when it is busy it is very busy. Some spices available. Plenty of clean dishtowels

Lake Taupo journal: This is Why You Don't Stay in These Places

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 03:49:06 GMT

The Berkendorf or Bergenhof or some such thing (I have blanked on the name because of the trauma of staying here). Oh wait it is Berkenhoff Lodge on Scannell Street. Not the gloomy experience of the Pepper Tree, but does seem to attract the unfriendliest travelers in the North Island. You can drink here, which makes it tolerable, but the dining room feels like a school cafeteria and is about as segregated as a one, look there are the jocks, over there is the chess team, and let's not forget the stoners. It has it's own bar so trips to town can be limited.

Palmerston North journal: Kiwi Fusion

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 02:48:18 GMT

Cafe Cuba offers typical Kiwi cabinet food (pies, sammys, paninis) made with a twist. Strictly fresh ingredients, vegetarian options, and some non-dairy non-gluten options as well. The mains are robust (really it's macaroni and cheese but with a great name). Tasty, moderately priced, with a old hippie who has gone mainstream atmosphere

Palmerston North journal: Not Exactly the Gateway to the North Island

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 02:39:02 GMT

A quick stop in Palmerston North was in order to help our daughter Chelsea celebrate her 23rd birthday. While waiting for her to get off work we headed for the botanical gardens described in the New Zealand For Free book I had purchased before our journey began. The book describes the palm-lined drive on Manawaroa Street as the introduction to the city's beautiful gardens.

This drive is called the Victoria Esplanade and is indeed lovely but the walking path dead ends and leads to what looks like a track into the woods, where you cross the miniature train tracks over and over before ...

Palmerston North journal: You're Lucky We are Letting You Stay Here, Give Me $50

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 02:11:19 GMT

The Pepper Tree is one of two hostels in Palmserton North and after staying here we should have tried the other one. The host is almost surly and acts as if it is an imposition to have you there, which I suppose it is. We didn't try the kitchen but it seemed large enough and fairly well-equipped. Wine eased my pain in staying there and the fact that it was against one of the countless rules made it even sweeter. This place is not for the faint of heart. The green boots were a clever touch though.

Palmerston North journal: Looking for river and found the miniature railroad tracks

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 02:11:19 GMT

On our way to the botanical gardens and the river walk, we ended up in the bush and following the miniature railroad tracks. We turned right when a left would have done it.

Wellington journal: The Other Windy City

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 12:39:12 GMT

The next stop was in a suburb of Wellington called Plimmerton. Plimmerton was originally set up as a resort town meant to be a getaway for the wealthy in Wellington. Now being only 20 minutes away from downtown Wellington, it is just an upscale suburb near the beach. Our stay at the Moana Lodge was the best experience we had at a backpackers during our trip. The Moana Lodge is an old house with great views of the ocean and directly across from a swim able beach. In a neighborhood of $1,000,000 homes it is more like a B&B than a backpackers.

We managed to see a bit of Wellington ...

Wellington journal: On the Cheap but still fun

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 12:17:56 GMT

It is amazing how many fun and interesting things to do here are free. Look at the blog entry for details. The weather was great (even with the never ending wind).

Wellington journal: A Gem in Plimmerton

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 12:17:56 GMT

Our stay at the Moana Lodge was the best experience we had at a backpackers during our trip. The Moana Lodge is an old house with great views of the ocean and directly across from a swim able beach. In a neighborhood of $1,000,000 homes it is more like a B&B than a backpackers.

Picton journal: The Dark Side of Backpackers

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 10:38:35 GMT

Get out your maps kiddies and we are off to Picton. I have posted pictures and written about Picton in earlier posts, so not much else will be said here. Our stop here was simply to await the ferry across to the North Island and the night’s stay was the first of many in our backpackers (this refers to the place we stayed and not our actual condition) experience. There under the influence of a very good wine we met a traveler from Sweden who regaled us with tales of his 6 month trip in the Southern hemisphere. He and his wife had decided that Southeast Asia would be a great place to see and ...

Picton journal: The Ugly

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 10:34:48 GMT

The Villa as it is woefully misnamed, is small, dark, cramped, but very close to the ferry terminal. The street is very busy and quite noisy until late in the evening. Everything is very careworn. The kitchen is low on basics, like pots, pans and dishes.

Picton journal: Hostile (no spelling error) eating

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 10:34:47 GMT

Made our own as we would most nights. Vacation is defined as having others do for you. Travel is making do for yourself

Picton journal: Actually waiting for ferry

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 10:34:47 GMT

Please note that 3 is a rating meant to convey that nothing much happened and it was fine just fine, we were simply waiting. Did have a pretty good coffee at a local eatery and saw the new waterfront apartments being sold in Picton ($600,000-$1,000,000)