little haxbys Blog on RealTravel

Kigali journal: Yes, visiting for the history

Tue, 13 May 2008 20:33:54 GMT

It’s hard, and indeed discouraged, to ignore the history in a place during your visit. There is a whole heck of a lot of history everywhere, and in the human history of somewhere, there’s a heck of a lot that’s disagreeable for the escapist vacationer. I went to Rwanda last summer, because I hadn’t been to Africa, because I didn’t want to do the luxury Safari thing, because of the effect I’d read the continent can have on you, and because there are some places that should be visited. After a few weeks in Uganda, I crossed the border into Rwanda, along the spine of volcanoes and the ...

Banos journal: Healthy Getaway!

Wed, 07 May 2008 18:43:20 GMT

Spas established on healthy ground tend to reside in regions of the world with exquisite earth, muds, and waters. These phenomena are propitious byproducts of science. Specifically, geology. Now, I’ve never planned a healthy getaway. I’ve been fortunate in stumbling upon a few towns with the properties of a healthful destination. And this is probably because like a good nerd I tend to select areas with intriguing volcanic history.

Baños, in south-central Ecuador introduced me to the fecund valleys of the volcanic Andes. Driving away from Quito, the urban sprawl slowly rolls out of ...

Iceland journal: Unique Summer Vacation: Biking Iceland

Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:11:25 GMT

Finding my way to Iceland has been on my top five for years. For the longest time all I knew about Iceland was that it was green, not icy, and that it ranks in the top spots for the Human Development Index. This didn’t interest me all that much as a ten year-old. Then I heard that you can bicycle around the perimeter of the island. Now it was a destination. When I heard that the country is not only green but beautiful and volcanic, and that the people of Iceland weave some of the warmest sweaters imaginable, my mind was made up. Someday I would bike Iceland.

Today, quite a while ...

Bryce Canyon National Park journal: One Year Later, Bryce Canyon Remains the Favorite

Mon, 24 Mar 2008 20:07:37 GMT

With a childhood of campervans and portaging with a canoe on my back, my recommendations for traveling to National Parks go something like this: come for the natural wonder and wilderness! Stay for the natural wonder and wilderness! If there are luxurious, mellow diversions for visitors to American National Parks, these alternatives have eluded me, and will henceforth receive no address.

Last year I spent a month in the American Southwest. Just before revisiting the Grand Canyon, I reserved a few days for the fake Canyon. On a surprisingly eventful drive from one National Park to ...

Scotland journal: Picaresque Daydream of Scotland

Tue, 18 Mar 2008 10:48:17 GMT

If I were one to often find myself in exciting territory, standing nearby spontaneous tomfoolery or partaking in an original happening, then I might be equipped to rattle off some party locales, places like the perfect Salsa club in Quito, Ecuador, the coolest stretch of beach hosting the sickest raves in Thailand, or the best late night live music in London or Portland, Oregon.

However because my disposition or strange breed of luck tends to align itself with circumstances more prosaic and, well, intimate, I had to decide whether to write about my own take on destinations for ...

Savannah journal: Savannah in the Springtime? Sapid

Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:33:36 GMT

Visiting Savannah gave me this jittery energy, because I knew I wouldn’t get to see enough of it, but I loved it all the same. I could tell, from attempting to negotiate the cobblestone streets of the historic district (which grid in single directions around picturesque parks: much better for walking), and strolling along once settled at my lodgings, that this was a city where the best was not boasted, and lines wouldn’t denote the path to treasure. Savannah, I decided, was a city for locals, and I would only be able to savor a weekend-sized slice of her hot and generously-seasoned ...

Savannah journal: The Best Yet!

Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:45:16 GMT

I was welcomed heartily, and given a fabulous tour and introduction. Every friday and Saturday evenings the kitchen serves wine and cheese in the dining room. My room was just lovely and homey, with everything I could ask for but internet. I had a little patio, and a delectable breakfast included. Although a bit hard to see from the street (small sign), I have absolutely no complaints.

Salzburg journal: A Tour of Salzburg, Austria, for the Von Trapp family fan

Sun, 02 Mar 2008 18:03:01 GMT

When I researched Salzburg, of the list of places to go, things to see (a comfortable length for a few days visit whilst exploring central Europe), many matched the destinations marked on the Sound of Music tour my companions had already booked, give or take a few landmarks (like Mozart’s birthplace). Salzburg has a lot of history. It also has a lot of tacky. I like to think this is part of the culture, that the people of Salzburg truly enjoy kitschy trinkets, which adds a familiar, friendly aunt feel to visiting the city. Thus, the idea of letting Dietmar drive us to most of ...

St. John journal: Best Time To Go

Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:52:15 GMT

Summertime in the U.S. Virgin Islands is a fabulous time to go, because at no other time of year will you be as grateful for the water, or enjoy all that the ocean offers quite as much. The climate is not oppressive in the summer, but being out and about requires a few daily dips to cool off, which really isn’t a downside. Furthermore, accommodation rates drop drastically. St. John is the smallest, and I must say, most dashing of the U.S. territory that I visited.

Most of the 28 square miles are National Park; a debilitating move for tourist development that happens to, ...

Boundary Waters Canoe Area journal: Hassle-Free Travel

Mon, 04 Feb 2008 17:52:22 GMT

The best way to spend time off and stay free of hassle and stress is to stay at home. Sure, you might not be able to physically escape the stress-activators in your house, but at least you don't have to worry about delayed flights, lost luggage, getting lost yourself, and food-borne ailments. But what's the fun in staying home? As an adventuresome generalist, hassle often finds me.

So I pondered over the relative value of overcoming such an obstacle, when a few places came to mind that were truly just smooth sailing from arrival to departure. These experiences include ...

C ...

Queen Elizabeth National Park journal: Adventures in East Africa

Mon, 04 Feb 2008 17:47:14 GMT

Uganda may not be the first country you associate with African Safari destinations, but its Queen Elizabeth National Park and environs offer a wealth of opportunities for the adventurous traveler to explore. Not only does the 2,000 square mile park boast the Maramagambo Forest, the wild and beautiful Kyambura Game Reserve populated with all the animals you want to see, it also shares borders with diverse and vitally important Parks, most in the neighboring ...

The World journal: Writings: Stuff I did, Stuff I want to do

Mon, 04 Feb 2008 17:41:43 GMT

this is a deposit for some musings I'm working on, an exercise in brevity and succinct expression, a salubrious diversion to the 9-5 life I lead at the moment.

Jemez Pueblo journal: Enchanted in New Mexico

Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:44:57 GMT

This morning I woke with dawn in Bernalillo (yesterday is of little consequence for y’all, I needed to cover some miles and didn’t want to get to Santa Fe yet. The one part worth noting was driving through American horror movie hallowed ground: The Atomic Bomb Test Sites). I had no idea where to go today. That was a good thing. A good ten minutes were spent debating in my car possible routes and destinations and sights. Bear in mind please, that I hate backtracking. This is new, and it’s because I’m on a road trip for crying out loud and I’m in America and there are too many roads ...

Boston journal: Top Ten Things to Bring on a Road Trip

Wed, 16 Jan 2008 17:16:23 GMT

1. a car. Obviously the most explicit, and uncreative ‘thing.’ But I will linger at this selection for two reasons. 1, you must love your car, or truck, or whatever. To say you must love to drive cheats you out of any credibility. You must, however, love to drive your car. What is needed in a road trip car? Longevity (unless you’re hoping for the thrill of being stranded in the middle of the wilderness, touché), comfort, a charming ride, amenities. A worthy radio. Your car will become a part of you, close to you, the tender reason for a softer rump. It better get you from point a to ...

Uganda journal: Animal Viewing in Uganda and Rwanda

Mon, 22 Oct 2007 18:03:20 GMT

There are few pleasures as satisfying as seeing animals you’ve only watched pacing in a zoo, as they pace around you- you a child of the Lion King generation. When I sat atop the combi van, legs swinging freely, binoculars serving only to tug at my neck, as a herd of elephants pranced about just meters from me, I became envious that in Uganda, the wild animals are way more impressive than the ones I see in New England. This past summer I went on a tour of East Africa, and although the animals offered my best dinner party stories (besides making eyes at a certain British movie actor) and ...

Kalinzu-Maramagambo Forest Reserve journal: Bat Cave!

Fri, 19 Oct 2007 21:16:33 GMT

Our guide, Coolo, led us into the Maramagambo forest with a wealth of knowledge he really wanted to share. His enthusiasm and energy were contagious and without obstacle. I wish we had taken a longer hike with him, this one just lasted a couple hours.

The name of the forest comes from the story that a group of people were lost in the young forest, who took many days to emerge, and when they did they could not speak for a long time. Their exhaustion was so complete that it inspired the naming of the forest- maramagambo, which means 'the end of words'.

Coolo then led us up a ...

Queen Elizabeth National Park journal: It's Outdoors. It's Indoors. The Best of Both.

Thu, 27 Sep 2007 20:36:03 GMT

Booked through Uganda Credit Tours/Go Uganda Safari, I am not sure of the price, but the tents were army style canvas pitched inside beautiful shelters. The shelters appeared to be bamboo, stalks lining the short end walls and meeting the roof on the sides. The front created a nice patio, and each patio had two wicker chairs. In the back, which you reached by walking into the tent, through the anteroom, and out the velcro flaps, was a private area that was not entirely private. The stalks prevented gazing in, but the openness assured a lessening of privacy. There, on what was a ...

Kabale journal: Chimpanzees!

Wed, 26 Sep 2007 19:21:49 GMT

We visited Kabale for the chimpanzees. Jane Goodall's Institute has a center here, and it was on our way south. Poachers are a neverending problem, it seems, for the protection of this evolutionary family member of ours.

In the morning we were instructed to tuck our pants into our socks, preventing the dreaded safari ant from getting in, and headed out onto the road. In the quick drive to the Chimpanzee site, we saw our first baboons. I was so excited, to see this new species, I had never learned their life as pests. Like incredibly intelligent raccoons, baboons will steal, maim, ...

Queen Elizabeth National Park journal: Letting a little Loose: Three Days of Safari!

Wed, 26 Sep 2007 19:09:39 GMT

Near the Kazinga Channel between Lakes Edward and George, our tent cabins were just inside the Park. When we arrived, gleeful with our 'posh' tents, and aching to explore after a day in the van, the waterbuck we saw by the side of the road were incredible, wild animals. By the end of the day, they were boring, fare for the more interesting predators that I just hoped would appear and gore one of them. Yes, I can say that because I haven't watched a goring up close. But honestly, that's the only thing I missed!

The next three days were spent with game drives in the morning ...

New York journal: The Quintessential New York Spring Weekend

Fri, 07 Sep 2007 19:07:23 GMT

This was a friendly weekend, where a dear friend and I drove to visit a third dear friend we met during our previous travels. Intermixed with lazy afternoons and inside jokes, the three of us spent a quintessential New York weekend together, that I wanted to share for the once and future tourists.

My first driving experience in the city was around 11 pm on Friday night. Let me say, now, that I strive to make enough money to one day live and own a car in the city. What fun!

Saturday consisted of an early morning with news and excellent coffee, and a trip to the market for ...

Quito journal: Quito- How not to Spend Your First Day

Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:06:20 GMT

When I flew into Quito with my friend K, I had only taken family vacations to other countries, and followed the Rick Steves’ books so that we might never find a foreign treasure on our own.

Our flight was delayed about three hours from storm over Dallas , Texas . The taxi driver we had requested was still waiting, and I remember vividly walking down the short concourse with that precious yellow immigration form, saving the memory of these first moments. Although this would be disproved during my departure from the same airport, I remember thinking it was small, makeshift, like ...

Ecuador journal: My First International Foray

Wed, 05 Sep 2007 22:00:40 GMT

A dear friend invited me to explore South America with her. In preparation, we decided to tackle a single country in a few months, and that could be done with Ecuador. Her goal was to learn Spanish. My goals were, honestly, to get out of the States, and test myself with the alluring enterprise of travel. I was also very excited that the region's numerous and rare ecosystems support hundreds of interesting and rare species. I caught a monster travel bug, in a matter of days.

Kabale journal: Picturesque Lodging

Wed, 05 Sep 2007 18:52:34 GMT

If you get too close to 'Frog' lake, the amphibians' noise can be deafening. The cabins are quaint and clean, the food is excellent, and the staff are kind. We enjoyed our two days here, although I would caution against a swim (there's a friendly hippo in the waters).

In the afternoons I read on the patio, watching a large family of black and white colobus monkeys play around the buildings and fence. In the mornings and evenings we ate at the pavilion, where a big fire was set up, we helped the staff shoo away the monkeys, and ate for hours, first enjoying the fresh food and then ...

Blue Ridge Parkway journal: Eking Out a Week For This Road

Sun, 19 Aug 2007 21:06:05 GMT

I started to drive the Parkway thinking that the sheer beauty and diminshed speed limit would require me to allot at least five days. This actually took work- and I was unsuccessful, I barely made the stretch in four. The work, I must confess, was some of the best eking I have ever done- and as most of my previous years were spent either in school or in the retail business, eking does not come naturally. However, somehow I strategized, and learned that the number one priority for making the drive last was actually spending as little time driving as possible. Oh my life is so hard.

Kampala journal: Volunteer Week Part 2- Naguru Teen Health Clinic

Mon, 06 Aug 2007 07:02:19 GMT

On Monday, the day after our awesome rafting experience that also left me frustrated with the intervention policies of massive capitalist bodies like the World Bank, we met with the Kampala Chapter of the UNFPA. The United Nations Population Fund is a branch that never ceased to excite my hope in aid. Because it is not work we do for you, but work we do with you. Chapters are established where population demographics and trends demonstrate a need for certain improvements.

In Uganda, the population is growing at such a clip, that available resources and the pursuit of ...

Kampala journal: Volunteer Week Part 1- Nsambya Babies Home

Wed, 01 Aug 2007 17:51:36 GMT

Kampala is a large, sprawling city. The roads don’t intersect as much as they rotary. What was most striking, once I was used to the traffic patterns and admirable skills of Moses, our driver, was the staggering number of NGOs established within the limits. I may even go so far to say that on every street we drove, I saw at least one sign that hinted at some cause or relevant exigency. Three of these organizations quickly became important to us.

The first full day I spent in Kampala, I spent an hour holding babies. Now, with regard to my status as a single traveler sucking the ...

Kampala journal: Volunteer Week Part 3- UYDEL

Wed, 01 Aug 2007 16:04:51 GMT

Two of our afternoons were spent with the organization UYDEL- Ugandan Youth Development Link. This bold program, started in 1993 with help from the African Youth Alliance (AYA), runs outposts in at-risk neighborhoods where there is little to no mobility, as well as managing centers in every district that offer classes and residential necessities for the most vulnerable youths. Their mission is to provide intervention and help for those who could use it- especially the growing population of orphaned and abandoned children. Their services develop skills, offer training, and eventually ...

Jinja journal: Rafting Endangered White Water!

Mon, 23 Jul 2007 22:31:34 GMT

We drove to Jinja at dawn. Kampala sits on Lake Victoria - the second largest lake in the world - and from that body of water, the Nile begins. We passed the Owens Falls Dam, reminding us of the World Bank and IMF presence. The reason our itinerary included this diversion stems from the knowledge that the World Bank has successfully ensured the erection of a new dam, near the holy Bujagali falls, on the class five rapid Big Brother. Intended to harness hydroelectric power for the region, the plan is yet another example of Western-funded projects that channel WB money back into the ...

Kampala journal: Settling In and Sights

Sun, 22 Jul 2007 06:32:40 GMT

When I jumped out of the van at the guest house, many of my companions were already checked in, and had slept through dinner. Groggy and jet-lagged we met and found that we were all curious, eager students (whether enrolled in school or not). I’m almost the oldest, but the leader of the trip is my senior by far more than her two years. The social dynamic of this group, which varies in age by twelve significant years (15 to 27), is going to be distracting for me!

I remember making a mental note that the city reminded me of Tena, Ecuador, a remote city skirting the edge of the ...

Africa journal: Appreciating Uganda & Rwanda

Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:16:57 GMT

I applied for a tour of Uganda and Rwanda through an organization (not religiously affiliated) that introduces travelers to the world via the lenses of human rights and conservation. With eight other individuals developing or brandishing wanderlust, I set off to experience this region through eco-tourism and volunteer work. The result was a sea change in self.

Kampala journal: Like Staying at a Distant Aunt's Home

Thu, 19 Jul 2007 07:31:15 GMT

The City View Guest House has a great view of the city, is somewhat quiet, is attended to by kind staff, and is a safe and comfortable place to stay. Out of the city center, the guest house serves delicious meals, has a bar attached to the main building, and each room has mosquito nets. Laundry is overpriced.

Entebbe journal: Arrival

Tue, 17 Jul 2007 18:50:59 GMT

I'm in Uganda! I wrote that about three times in my journal entry tonight. Miriam and Max and Moses met me at the airport with a bouquet of Uganda's gorgeous flowers- tight white carnations and red roses with delicate young buds- which I proceeded to dry in my room. The airport is under construction, so one large room is open for receiving, baggage claim, visa services, and a few taxi booths. I already loved the country for letting us walk across the hot tarmac that breathed humidity in the cooling evening. Nothing beats walking out of a plane immediately onto the earth of your ...

Great Smoky Mountains National Park journal: A Preseason Preview of the most Popular Park

Mon, 11 Jun 2007 20:54:59 GMT

The estimate I've been telling people is about four thousand miles in six days. This is the marathon week that I don't think deserves an entry so much as this little introduction. I left Grand Teton National Park on the 25th, because it was closed, and set off onto Wyoming's open road.

The state could be a reserve- signs dotted the flattening routes cautioning motorists of how many large mammals had been killed along a particular segment of road the previous year. And I did see large mammals milling around turns in highways, minding their own bad-survival-skills business. ...

Yellowstone National Park journal: The First National Park on the Planet!

Mon, 28 May 2007 21:37:39 GMT

This visit to the singular geologic wonderland of this National Park was unfortunately before the winter had cleared enough trail and road to open the entire park. As I visited in late April, a mere segment of the car-accessible roads was open from the north to portions south, and no hiking was possible without crampons. However the route to Old Faithful had recently been reopened, which is always a treat.

The drive south to Yellowstone at dusk was more beautiful than at dawn. The sun had cleared a heavy fog as best it could with evening nigh, when a misty white layer hovered on ...

Seattle journal: Touristy Highlights from a Family Weekend

Tue, 22 May 2007 09:32:23 GMT

I spent a weekend when the shade-happy rhododendrons were in full bloom, along with much of the greenery and flowers popular on suburban frontages; but I advise going during the summer's peak, when for three months Mount Rainier rears up beyond the city, in clear skies stretching on for miles. The rains are rare and the city's vegetation hasn't yet died.

First, a drive through the proudly ultra-left Fremont, which is so committed to being *that* left (self-proclaimed most liberal town in the country, and probably not incorrect), actually acquired a statue of Lenin from the ...

Boston journal: Last Stop Back East

Thu, 17 May 2007 12:40:47 GMT

As I'm winding down, mostly just processing (that the trip is over), Carrie suggested I write up a top ten. Now, I have eight more entries to go as of today, but I liked the idea of condensing, an exercise in brevity, hah! This isn't in any order, although I think it's chronological.

Top Ten Spots for the Extended American Road Trip

1. Driving Highway 1

I took off from charming Cambria under perfectly blue skies and forceful coast winds, and drove highway 1. The road curved and climbed and fell. The afternoon was glorious. I stopped for the futile attempt to capture ...

Bryce Canyon National Park journal: National Park Overload, Part III

Thu, 17 May 2007 09:21:49 GMT

As we left Zion, I had the feeling we were leaving too soon. Springdale was such a sweet village with an idyllic setting, Bryce couldn't beat this! Curiously, Bryce Canyon sits only 60 or 70 miles from Zion, yet enjoys only a fraction of the latter's visitors. I wondered why this might be.

My car was acting up, so even as we drove through Dixie National Forest I fought the urge to pull over for photographs. I knew that my parents shared the same notion, but I had that drive that a car's strange behavior will sometimes engender in a pilot: the need to keep going. Dixie National ...

Portland journal: Whirlwind Tour of Portland

Fri, 11 May 2007 08:27:45 GMT

When I explored Portland, I stayed within two focal points: The Waterfront Walk, and Powell's Books. Outside the city, we explored Larch Mountain and Multnomah Falls, and failed to venture up the river at what must have been the Columbia River gorge.

The threeish-mile walk that crosses bridges and follows the river along its length with learnings and suspension paths was a real treat. The day was calm and very warm in the sun, still cool in the shade, with barely any clouds. In the early morning I explored the bookstore and bought a few reads, then found my way via Chinatown to ...

Umpqua journal: Driving North - On the Road Again

Wed, 09 May 2007 21:03:39 GMT

This is the story of the drive *to* Umpqua. It's the route I took on my way to Portland, where I visited a friend rather than explore like a good traveler. I began on a Wednesday, hungry for the road. There were two hours of good light left in the day. My route took to the coast at Sebastopol, and followed 1 as it dipped by switchback closer to the shore. The road wound and dipped and rose like a ride, and once again I remarked (nearly aloud) at how the route must have been developed to coax a mirthy smile from drivers who love driving (there's no reason for people who don't like ...

Russian River Terrace journal: Tasting Wine with a Friend on the River

Thu, 03 May 2007 19:49:37 GMT

Sonoma county carries a friendlier air than Napa, so I had been eager to explore the sister vineyards. The rumors were true, and so my dear friend from Lake Tahoe and I spent a short weekend exploring the wine and the coast. A friend had recommended the Russian River Valley for tastings. We were also on a budget (in general I would guess that Sonoma is cheaper) and decided to take to the internet because we agreed that there must be free tastings somewhere in the two counties. Thanks to a blog post by an employee in the region, we found that the Russian River Valley houses a handful of the ...

Calistoga journal: Divine Weekend in Napa Valley

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 23:14:05 GMT

After my fabulous brewery tour, I drove to Calistoga and circled around the small and friendly town center until I found the chamber of commerce. The guy running the office helped me out with recommendations and brochures, and I realized this was going to be an expensive weekend. I had a reservation at a Bed & Breakfast for Saturday night, so the GPS led me to the Bothe Napa Valley State Park to pinch pennies. The ranger gave me a secluded site where I happily retired until the morning.

I had the most beautiful part of the day to spend before checking in at the Brannon ...

South Lake Tahoe journal: Fun at the Country's Largest Mountain Lake!

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 22:30:35 GMT

The night my friend and I drove into South Lake Tahoe, some drunk resort employee jumped off the Tahoe Queen dinner cruise ship into the lake. He swam through the icy water, avoiding the monster (well, there's a poor legend, but I hope it acquires a little more legitimacy, monsters are such wonderful tourism pulls), and beached himself on one of the islands. Soon this sort of behavior was normalized, when it became obvious that what people do here is get drunk and act stupid.

Now I don't want to sound negative. But there is that culture in town, which was a small village just ten years ...

Las Vegas journal: An Oasis of Sin. It's a Terrible Place, & I love it

Sat, 21 Apr 2007 10:52:18 GMT

The biggest holiday weekend of Spring was celebrated, Vegas Style. Due to itinerary complications surrounding the hugeness of the state of California, I was flying there. And lucky for me, the trip to the Sacramento airport included a drawn out ride via Greyhound's absurd routes. I arrived early to check in for the bus, because some neurosis of my adolescence left a predisposition for preparing for the worst case scenario (which in all conditions is the failure to make transportation deadlines). Thus, I waited hours at the station and was fourth to check in for the bus to Oakland.

Calistoga journal: Perfect Little Inn for a Home Away from Home

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 02:33:55 GMT

I had a wonderful night's stay here, and would have stayed another night but for the price. The owners are friendly and helpful, the coupons are valuable, my room had great amenities alongside antiques. Breakfast was the best yet. More in entry.

Calistoga journal: Beautiful Alternative Accommodation

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 02:33:55 GMT

I highly recommend this Park. It's beautiful with secluded campsites and dispersed grounds, hiking, good amenities and you can't beat the price in Wine Country.

Denver journal: Commendable Wine Bar

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 00:24:36 GMT

This is a cute little joint run by a friend of a friend. We sampled three excellent reds with three savory desserts to compliment. The atmosphere is classy, funky, and comfortable. The couple who own the place are true wine enthusiasts, and boast a great selection they are happy to assist with for your order. I was especially impressed with the Tete de Moine cheese, a robust and musky gourmet treat that is best enjoyed after being shaved into ruffles by a girolle. A little expensive, but what wine bar isn't? A wonderful close to almost any evening.

Healdsburg journal: Bear Republic Brewery Private Tour!!

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 23:49:09 GMT

After camping at Big Basin Redwoods, I headed north up 1 past San Francisco, which I decided to cross off my to-explore list because I have visited the fabulous metropolis before, I needed a shower, and did not need to spend over $100 on a dingy motel, so I drove all the way to Santa Rosa. The drive north of SF tied with the southern Big Sur stretch, because it seemed that the architects for this road were true James Bond freaks. I felt like I was in a car chase, zipping about, up and down, zig-zagging steep hillsides, following the mustang convertible ahead of me. There were also ...

Big Basin Redwoods State Park journal: Remote Camping

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 10:23:51 GMT

I had selected this state park because it's the oldest in California, founded in 1902. The drive there once I got off 1 onto 9 was quite fun. For twenty miles my top speed was about thirty mph, turning to the left! to the right! to the left! And all this fun was amplified by the knowledge that RVs could never dart around these sharp turns. As I drove further on, the forest thickened and the trees got taller. This is a remote campground. It took me about twenty minutes to find the headquarters because I chose to check out the campground before registering, and then got lost on my way out. I ...

Big Basin Redwoods State Park journal: Large, Quiet, Remote

Tue, 10 Apr 2007 14:48:23 GMT

I would like to return someday with more time to hike and explore the Redwoods. The campsites were nice but mine was quite small. Each had a picnic table and grill. Showers cost a quarter for two minutes of hot water. It feels, and certainly is, far away from civilization.

Big Sur journal: Wildlife Adventures at a State Park By the Sea

Tue, 10 Apr 2007 12:02:31 GMT

After my drive partway up the coast, I stopped at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, hoping my interagency pass would grant me a discount. It didn't. But the setting was just so pretty I stayed. Thinking the weather would clear up I chose a site with a little more sun than the others. I pitched my tent and set off walking. The campground offered sites along the river for an extra ten bucks. As many of these were unoccupied I walked through them along the river. Then I realized it was getting on in the afternoon and if a hike was in order, it must be soon. A Host Campsite near the entrance ...

Big Sur journal: Pretty Campground!

Tue, 10 Apr 2007 11:44:27 GMT

My night here was upset with a major storm that soaked my old tent. But you just can't beat $20/night on the coast. There are a number of hiking trails, and a river runs through the park. There are two other parks along that famous strip of 1, and you can't go wrong with them.

Cambria journal: Spoiling Senses in Lush California- Includes Driving 1

Wed, 04 Apr 2007 09:21:07 GMT

I left Flagstaff and drove on Route 40 into California. I drove across the Mojave Desert without any water, and stopped just before Bakersfield to hydrate. What an experience. From the green plains of Arizona to hills of desert, during intense midday heat. I was a mess, and stopped in Maricopa, along highway 166. My plan was to bypass the Los Angelos area, and head west directly to the coast. Sunday was a long driving day, and I stayed in Maricopa. The town is barely more than an intersection of routes 166 and 33.

One of my most pleasant driving experiences to date occcured along ...

Cambria journal: A Legend of Food in a Small Town

Tue, 03 Apr 2007 22:21:27 GMT

Deborah owns the Wild Ginger Cafe. She cooks, she serves, she chats. It is her restaurant. And she loves food.

I ordered her lobster rolls, which was eggroll sized but wrapped in a baked phyllo shell, filled with lobster and maybe a little shrimp, mung beans and other greens. A soy-colored sauce was drizzled on top but I failed to find out more of the ingredients, as this selection was a special. The rolls were hearty- enough for a small person's dinner, and the sweet chili dipping sauce she offered was so yummy I nearly used the garnish to mop it up. But I paced myself.

Next, ...

Cambria journal: Cute Inn, Good Deal

Mon, 02 Apr 2007 16:50:45 GMT

My AAA book had this place listed at the cheapest stay in Cambria, and it was a great deal for a sweet country room with the basics. The office had a binder with a menu from every restaurant in town, and a meager continental breakfast. The room didn't have a phone but it had internet and a table and a nice bathroom. Around back there are gardens to explore. When most of the places in town charge at least $100, for what you get the $50 was just fine.

Flagstaff journal: I wanted to stay....

Sun, 01 Apr 2007 12:40:02 GMT

While perusing my travel companion (books) for good places to stay in Flagstaff, I erupted in glee and giggles when I read that the Historic Hotel Monte Vista, located in the center of the old Flagstaff district, is where the indoor scenes for Casablanca was shot. This was too good to pass up. Prices were right, and I was set to stay there, even after a visit to the website revealed to my disappointment that the hotel proudly houses ghosts. I don’t believe in ghosts, but what if I’m wrong? All these old hotels are so happy to share with future guests that a while back people killed ...

Grand Canyon South Rim journal: National Park Overload, Part IV

Sun, 01 Apr 2007 11:33:27 GMT

The South Rim is my most recent National Park. This means it was the last of my overload. When my parents arrived in Utah, I had communicated some concern that I was canyon-ed out, but enjoyed the singularity of Zion and Bryce so much, that it seemed my quota had not been reached. While at Bryce Canyon, I read that the North Rim remains closed through the winter, whereas the South Rim is open just about all year. I had been excited to explore the North Rim, having explored the South just about six months before. The North, I heard, was not only more interesting, but far less visited due to its ...

Savannah journal: There's a Musk in the Air and a Spring in my Step

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 00:32:37 GMT

Then I drove to Savannah. My mind was full and the sun hung low and I shouldn’t have been listening to NPR because I got turned around a couple times when I didn’t understand Rita’s directions. Moneypenny is great, but when Rita speaks up, she sometimes gets the roads wrong. Down here, all highways have names that change every county or so, and they’re named after men, and they must change every few years because Rita would tell me to stay on the Martin Luther King Junior highway, but it wasn’t called that anymore, or once Rita said 17 instead of 16 and I got confused. To those who ...

Zion National Park journal: National Park Overload, Part II

Thu, 29 Mar 2007 21:23:22 GMT

I had arrived in Springdale the afternoon before I actually made my way into the park. Having just spent a couple of days in the wilderness, I enjoyed the opportunity to get an oil change for my car and to shower. The next morning I woke early (my parents had generously decided to spend a short work break with me, and we planned the typical National Park getaway starting with Zion) and we left for breakfast. After caffeinating ourselves with coffee and packing sandwiches from a congenial (also caffeinated) cafe manager whom I named Mr. Flourish for his elaborate gesturing style, we entered the ...

Canyonlands National Park journal: National Park Overload, Part I

Thu, 29 Mar 2007 21:08:49 GMT

When I returned to the park on Sunday, I wasn't quite sure what to do with myself. There are actually two parks in Canyonlands, one in the north: Island in the Sky, is the district most people visit because it is close to Arches and Moab; the other district is Needles, located farther south, past the basin of Island in the Sky. Needles attracted me because after a few days in the desert, looking out on valleys below, the opportunity to experience the park from within, looking up, seemed a welcome change. And I knew my camera could handle the close-up shots of the meadows. Then I ...

Springdale journal: National Park Overload, Part IA

Sat, 24 Mar 2007 22:47:03 GMT

The drive from Moab to Springdale, the tourist town at the base of Zion National Park, filled my day with pleasant roads and delightful Springy views. The drive was about three hundred miles, although I attempted to extend the journey via scenic route 128, a hypotenuse of the two interstates between Moab and Zion. Tempted by the green dotted line of scenic byway on my road atlas, I took the turnoff for 128, which from the interstate seemed to cut into the gorgeous territory fit for preservation by the Department for the Interior, rather than skirt it along the plains.

After ...

United States journal: The Grand American Road Trip

Sat, 24 Mar 2007 21:49:26 GMT

I recently returned from my first quintessential travel experience in Ecuador. While there I came to the conclusion (on a bus in the Andes, 5 days into the trip) that another journey was in order. Where better to learn to explore alone than in my own country? I speak the language. The water is tasty. I've traveled with family here before. The geography and people and scope are all grand. This road trip dissects and collects a majority of the lower 48 in the classic tradition of driving. I want to see what I have not seen. Doing this alone must not handicap my experience but ...

Arches National Park journal: Beautiful Geology

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 22:43:03 GMT

After a very quick exploration of the town I set off for Arches National Park, a fairly small mass of land that houses the largest concentration of natural arches in the world. These arches are forged by a variety of forces and elements, such as chemical weather, and will someday be lost to erosion. The arches are dotted around the park, some two hundred or more of them, although most cannot be seen from the main road, and there are not many footpaths. I felt that Arches was satisfactorily accomplished in an afternoon. The vistas offered on the driving tour were stunning and panoramic, with ...

Moab journal: Awestruck in Moab

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 16:01:25 GMT

The sakura bloom here first. I wonder why Japanese donors chose this little town to bestow arguably the most beautiful rite of Spring: cherry blossom week. Washington D.C.'s National Cherry Blossom festival isn't for two weeks.

I feel so saturated here, surrounded by geologic miracles that adorn themselves in rich earthen hues, and then as I walk the streets of this charming city, the pinks of the cherry blossoms are nearly missed against the rusty dirt that covers the world down here. How lucky to see these perfect little specimens that are celebrated all over the world. And lucky again ...

Moab journal: Cold Metal Decor with B&B Warmth

Sun, 18 Mar 2007 05:38:03 GMT

Decorated in what interior designers must see as their equivalent to Gonzo journalism, the small hotel is really quite fetching. The rooms are simply furnished with interesting ornamentation, and the halls wind to feel at once like a motel lodge and a bed and breakfast. The staff are very friendly, the price is a little steep, but the amenities are thorough: generous continental breakfast included, wi-fi, pool, coffee and very fun shower en suite, individual patio.

Moab journal: Expert Flavorings and Execution

Sat, 17 Mar 2007 21:35:28 GMT

Food enthusiasts can't help but enjoy a restaurant run by a chef who opts no bells and whistles, but prepares food meticulously, and knows what they're doing with flavors. Staff was attentive and the atmosphere was nice casual. I laughed when I read at the bottom of my menu "the use of cellular telephones in the dining room inhibits the ability to properly prepare risotto." My roasted beet salad left something to be desired because it served as very good antipasto. I wanted bold, I got gentle. Then the salmon. Maple seared salmon over Lebanese cous cous with dried bing cherries and snap peas. ...

Denver journal: Touristy Hightlights with commentary

Thu, 15 Mar 2007 09:59:31 GMT

The longest layover of my trip thus far has been spent idly in Denver. Visiting a friend who moved here almost two years ago, I’ve been surprised by her knowledge of Denver. A city of this size would require far more time for me to learn. This is, of course, considering that although my orientation skills have been developing smoothly during the many days on the road, I am still at a loss within some city sprawls. The advantage of course, is that she walks everywhere. That said, let’s get into Denver. I’m reviewing the restaurants that

stood out to me for a variety of reasons, ...

Fort Collins journal: New Belgium Brewery!

Thu, 15 Mar 2007 07:21:39 GMT

New Belgium Brewery is one of those smaller-production breweries that stretch the definition of microbrewery. And I wouldn't call it a craft brewery because not only are there multiple breweries, no hands ever touch the bottles. What makes New Belgium special is the spirit of hippie in the manufacture: the company is family-run with nil-footprint intentions.

For almost nine years they have held the goal to run exclusively on wind power. Their website does not specify how close they are to accomplishing that mission. I found most impressive the process they employ to recycle and reuse ...

Boulder journal: Trendy Kids Between a Rock and a Hard Place

Wed, 14 Mar 2007 09:48:14 GMT

We drove here Sunday before some more extracurricular stuff for my friend's work.

I explored there this previous Sunday afternoon, after a short hike. My friend and I took a few hours to explore the Flat Irons, which are red rock formations that stand like house-size irons on the sides of the baby Rockies. We noted as we gleefully collected mud on our sneakers that many of our fellow Flat Irons visitors had received no lessons on hiking etiquette. Now, New Englanders may have a bad rep in some parts of the country, but we are damn nice hikers. The Midwestern in our blood also ...

Mesa Verde National Park journal: They Just Don't Build Cliff Dwellings Like They Used To

Thu, 08 Mar 2007 11:27:03 GMT

After breakfast in Durango was spent as many mugs of coffee while chatting with Michael the manager, I drove to Mesa Verde National Park. The views of the Rockies are just fabulous in this area of Colorado, no matter if you’re in a valley or on the green table itself. But these views were the best I had seen yet. Looking for petroglyphs and wildlife, I explored a bit of the silty terrain, and waited for a guided tour.

Petroglyphs, which are like pictographs but carved into the rock face, are all over the Southwest, and people of the current pueblos have been able to interpret ...

Montrose journal: Home Sweet Home on the Strip

Thu, 08 Mar 2007 10:44:52 GMT

I needed a place to stay along a strip of chain hotels and fast food. I saw the sign, and the wi-fi, and the motor lodge layout, and went inside. The counter blocked the entrance to the living area of the family that runs the Inn, which I could just peek into while I waited to get a room. The man at the front desk was friendly, helpful, and gracious. I got the cheapest and barest room for forty bucks, with a fridge and a desk and a microwave and coffee machine and nice bed and a desk and a nice bathroom with natural toiletries and a television.

If you are ever in need of a place to stay ...

Durango journal: A Real Diamond for a Night or Three

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 09:19:23 GMT

Saturday night, best time to go out as a solo traveler- because everyone’s out, and they will talk to you. Especially if they think you’re cute. I had settled at my little lodge habitation, switched from my cowgirl hat to my Red Sox cap, and set out for the pub. I had driven around Durango for about a half hour debating lodgings- I had resolved to pick The Siesta Motel, if only for it's sign: on one side "Best Kept Secret in Durango," and on the other "Free Rooms! Just Kidding!" Which I just laughed out loud at! But the office was already closed. Then I was still determined to pick ...

Durango journal: Cool Digs, Awesome Food

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 09:18:59 GMT

Santa Fe journal: Dreams Come True, Yes They Do, In Santa Fe...

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 07:45:23 GMT

Friday, March 2I was second to pick chores, and they all had an additional scribbling ‘empty trash in area’ that seemed odd considering the manager really had plenty of free time. I decided to sweep and mop the women’s bathroom on the pretext that either I would be making it suitable for when I showered later, or would have little to do considering I hadn’t seen another woman yet.

Then I went to town. How odd, it was exactly what I expected. Charming, dark adobe, short blocks, lots of trees, people are friendly and well-to-do. The beads dangling in my car earned me special treatme ...

Santa Fe journal: When I dream, on my own, I'm alone but I ain't lonely...

Sun, 04 Mar 2007 21:32:41 GMT

Driving into Santa Fe

This marks my first American Hostel experience, and I felt some trepidation over whether we can do it like the foreigners after phoning the desk to inquire about their policies.

The short drive was a real treat, with bright blue sky and all the mountain diversity the state offers while rolling along. I chose some Mark Knopfler to set the mood (I had already determined that I was going to like this city), specifically The Long Highway followed by the theme from Local Hero, Going Home. How fitting it was. So as I drove up to the “Santa Fe International ...

Santa Fe journal: Mediocre Value

Sun, 04 Mar 2007 21:29:28 GMT

First I must let you know that I really like hostels. I think they're a wonderful opportunity to meet travelers and exchange stories, recommendations, and shared time while saving money. I mean, my single had just about everything I need in a room: toilet, desk, one outlet, bed, heater. But what was missing at the Hostel here was organization. I expect that most customers are domestic, and that there is a population who needs a place to stay that does not require a pledge, so the American Hostel doubles as a half-way house. As a non-profit ther kitchen was a marvel of stocked goodness.

Cimarron journal: Cowboy Country!

Fri, 02 Mar 2007 06:53:43 GMT

Considering the maps were not offering accurate paths for the roads I would be following- no road that covers the up, over, and down of a mountain doesn't snake- I wasn't sure if I would stay in Cimarron that night or not. That's always a fun part of the trip. I tend to eat dinner where I stop to sleep, and that means I don't often drive into the night.

Anyway, right after Taos I happened upon a very windy road that followed a little river, passed some horse farms, a cattle farm or two, and more artist's retreats before going head on into the mountains.

The drive to Cimarron only ...

Taos journal: Not as Enchanted in New Mexico

Thu, 01 Mar 2007 15:58:57 GMT

The drive to Taos is worth more than the town. I knew it's reputation. Julia Roberts has a house there and it's an artists' colony, which means that in order to stay afloat the town must be both a tourist trap and expensive. Being kind of in the middle of nowhere, although a scenic nowhere, the draw for tourists has to be pretty strong. Yet I was unimpressed. The adobe architecture was unimaginative, the lack of franchises and chains was a plus diminished by the uniformity of attractions. Every house had a sign for pottery or a gallery sign, but the artists' spirit hadn't breathed creativity ...

Las Vegas journal: The Other Las Vegas

Thu, 01 Mar 2007 15:44:46 GMT

Fort Union is about forty miles from the town center of Las Vegas, and I had a nice ride in, at one time playing car pong with another vehicle and a car-sized tumbleweed. I lost, by the rules of the game, but thankfully saved my car, and myself.

I arrived in Las Vegas as the locals were filling the Saloon attached to the historic Plaza Hotel. I settled myself into my fabulous room that allowed for some of the best sprawling of my things in recent days, set up the trusty laptop (I was in such a good mood, elevated too with my immediate comfort at the hotel with its friendly staff and Bed ...

Las Vegas journal: Historic Rooms and Atmosphere with Modern Amenities

Thu, 01 Mar 2007 14:29:19 GMT

There's an elevator, free wireless internet, complimentary breakfast, huge rooms with antique furniture and the ghost of the first owner.

The restaurant attached is so-so, the saloon attached is fabulous. Service was friendly and appropriate. I loved my room, it had the largest sink I've ever seen, and was surprisingly spacious and furnished for the price. The town seemed pretty sleepy, but the old Plaza center has held onto the classic feel of the old West, and is proud of it.

I recommend the place, I was really comfortable there.

Cloudcroft journal: A Real Historic Southwest Inn

Tue, 27 Feb 2007 20:55:59 GMT

This lodge was built in 1899 by the railroad company, then became an inn, then most of it burned down in 1909, and it was rebuilt by 1911 as a lodging for traveling Americans.

The building itself is gorgeous and old looking, with great wood trims and a tower. The rooms are cute and probably range to magnificent (I stayed next door to room 101, which has velvet hanging in front of double doors, looks like a very romantic suite. It would be a bit pricey in the summer months, but I got the offseason price. There's a full spa, a small exercise room, and a pool and jacuzzi, the latter I used ...

Cloudcroft journal: From Big Bend to White Sands to a Lodge in the Mountains

Tue, 27 Feb 2007 09:27:11 GMT

The drive itself is worth an entry, I skirted Mexico and then entered a new world in New Mexico, but I'm going to keep to the highlights. Through Texas I took scenic route 385 up to 90 West to 10 until El Paso, and was forced to hazardously keep scribbling notes about the sights. Texas remains in my head the death state, for the room of death at the Ranch, the dead bull on the side of the road, more 'kill' (I won't call it road because the cause of death isn't necessarily by truck- two guys in a pickup joyriding with one in the bed shooting at rabbits and foxes and such is an image ...

Big Bend National Park journal: Spectacular Volcanic History Grows Gorgeous Vistas!

Mon, 26 Feb 2007 22:06:03 GMT

Wow. I think I'm the only person I know who has ventured this far to this spot, and oh am I the lucky one! Because I am so very behind, and because I did take so many pictures, I think I will attempt brevity for this entry, and let the pictures do the explanation.

I drove southwest all day, covering landscapes I have never had to absorb before. Stunning mountains and peaks between great expanses of flat desert, for hundred of miles.

Big Bend National Park traces the Rio Grande along the Mexican border, covering a huge territory the size of a small state. I gabbed with the entry guy ...

Big Bend National Park journal: Incredible views in a cool, green basin

Mon, 26 Feb 2007 20:51:41 GMT

I recommend this campground because it is not accessible to RV's, and has a generator-free zone. The sites are fairly close, but considering the basin is home to mountain lions AND bears, I didn't mind. Half the sites look down the expanse rather than other campsites as well. There are bathrooms centrally located, plenty of water sources, and the sites are $14 a night.

Austin journal: Barack Obama Rally

Mon, 26 Feb 2007 20:35:16 GMT

I drove to Austin to see Barack Obama's rally. Now the city is on my shrinking to-do list. After a quick disappointment when the attendant at a garage listed as letting supporters in turned me away rudely, I had a turn of luck. Destiny was on my side as I found a small public lot with only one space left, with an all day pass for exactly the amount of cash I had left in my wallet.

So I walked to Auditorium Shores in a great mood, watching pedestrians and cyclists of agreeable diversity stream towards the same destination. I have never seen real diversity (as opposed to staged diversity) ...

San Antonio journal: Remember the Alamo?

Mon, 26 Feb 2007 19:17:33 GMT

After Mardi Gras I drove through Louisiana into Texas, and man is that state huge. The first sign I read upon entering is "El Paso 857 miles."

I spent the next few days in San Antonio visiting an old friend from high school, who was determined to give me the quinetessential Texan experience.

My first day there we visited the Alamo, which is preserved quite well, a cute museum occupies the barracks, and an enthusiastic (if not historically accurate) speech about the history is given on the hour. Before that we watched the Imax film "The Price Of Freedom" about the battle, at the ...