Ciccia*s Blog on RealTravel

Oaxaca City journal: So Grateful

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 09:20:14 GMT

Oaxaca is celebrated throughout Mexico for its gastronomy. It was precisely for this reason that I decided to visit this city and to indulge in an instinctive passion of mine: food.

I am not patriotic, neither to England, nor to Italy (both part of who I am) but one thing that I am proud of is the beauty and the love that is lavished over Italian cuisine. It is what nursed me when I was ill. It is what makes me happy when I am sad. It is what unites my family and friends on a Sunday afternoon. The smell of simmering tomatoes and the delicate seasoning of basil encapsulate the essence of ...

Oaxaca City journal: The Jewel in the Crown

Fri, 01 Aug 2008 09:22:25 GMT

Oaxaca is one of those places that leaves you enchanted by its rich embracing culture and history. It is a whirlwind of colours, scents and sounds that make this the most exciting destination in Mexico so far. Mexico is the meeting point of indigenous America and colonial Europe and nowhere is this more accented than in this glorious city.

Oaxaca has had a turbulent past in recent years. This is mostly due to the fact that the state of Oaxaca (of which Oaxaca city is the capital)has one of the highest poverty levels in Mexico. In the early 90's, the teachers of the State stood up in ...

San Cristobal de Las Casas journal: Yet Another Delighful Mexican Surprise

Wed, 09 Jul 2008 18:13:32 GMT

Since travelling around South America, I have become intrigued by the indigenous cultures of those who inhabited this marvelous latin continent before it was invaded by the Conquistadors. The way that they adapted to the imposition of a new Catholic religion and Spanish dominance is something that interests me very much.

This is why I came to San Cristobal de Las Casas in the state of Chiapas. This town represents the gate way to Mayan Mexico and offers an incredibly fascinating perspective of Middle America. Most inhabitants are either the descendants of the ancient Mayas or Bohemian ...

Playa del Carmen journal: Que Padre Guey !

Sun, 06 Jul 2008 19:24:55 GMT

One thing that has struck me as quite odd in this beautiful country, is the saying " Que padre !". The following phrase has in general, left me slightly bemused ; " Que tal guay ? Te late ? " And the response : " Si guay , estaba padrissimo". Literally that translates as " How was it ? Does it make your heart beat really fast?" and " Yes mate, it was really father". Does that make sense to you ? No, but Mexican slang is fast becoming my new favourite language.

" Que padre" is indended to mean " how cool" and that is the exact phrase I would use to describe Playa del Carmen. Although I ...

Mexico City journal: I love Mexico City

Fri, 04 Jul 2008 16:27:16 GMT

Flying into Mexico City is an experience in itself. The city, at night, seems to stretch out forever, like a never ending illuminous microchip, lighting up the black sky. This sprawling metropolis has a bad reputation but I left it wondering what all the fuss was about.

I only had 2 days in which to explore the City. The day after I arrived, I decided to make the most of my sleepless night and get an early start. I made my way to Frida Khalo´s house in the area of Coyoacan and it was as I expected: a bold statement of colour and subversion amongst the City`s bourgeousie. Although I ...

Chichen Itza journal: Discovering the Mayas

Wed, 02 Jul 2008 20:21:39 GMT

An important feature of Mexico´s past belongs to the Mayas. If you go to the Yucatan, Chichen Itza is a necessary tourist attraction because it is not only a spectacular archeological site but it gives you a fascinating insight into a culture that was around for three thousand years until it was dominated by the Conquistadores.

One word of warning : for some strange reason, most tours arrive at Chichen Itza at approximately 1.30p.m. It was almost a torture, walking around in the blistering heat of early afternoon and I have absolutely no idea why we didn´t set off earlier from Merida.

Merida journal: A Road Trip around Merida

Wed, 02 Jul 2008 19:54:26 GMT

Mexico city´s climate was not what I expected. I was under the misguided impression that all of Mexico basked in a pleasant, though not unbearable summer heat- How wrong I was. In my tiny back pack, I didn´t pack any clothes that would protect me from the mild cold and the rain which poured down relentlessly on Sunday evening. The dampness of the cold rain that had saturated my clothes, my skin and my hair, started to make me vaguely irritated. I could not believe that the climate in Mexico city was similar to London´s.

But when I landed in Merida after a short flight, walking into the ...

Mexico journal: Magico Mexico

Thu, 26 Jun 2008 08:15:43 GMT

I have been looking forward to this trip for ages !

Two weeks in this fascinating country will not be enough but I plan to make the most of the culture, music and food as possible!

I can't wait!

Mexico journal: Magico Mexico

Wed, 25 Jun 2008 04:37:56 GMT

Mexico seems like my ideal country: its pristine beaches and world class diving, its art and culture, its love of music and dance and its great food, make it quite possibly, a country that I will love. I only have two weeks so I am going to squeeze in as much of the above as possible! I can't wait to go and I am looking to the adventure that awaits.....

Buenos Aires journal: 10 Ways to Love Latin America

Fri, 20 Jul 2007 03:56:10 GMT

10 Ways to Love Latin America

Latin America has a certain magic that leaves you intrigued by its array of cultures, history and people. It adds colour and energy to your soul and makes you realise that there is so much more to life than the nine to five job that most of us are used to. It is however very difficult to fully understand or appreciate such a fascinating corner of the world without contemplating some of the lessons that I picked up along my travels without which I don’t think that I would have loved it as much as I do.

1) Learn to Speak Spanish

What do Cubans ...

Havana journal: La Casa de Laura y Maylen

Thu, 12 Jul 2007 12:47:27 GMT

Laura and Maylen are possibly the nicest people that I have met on my trip! They are very affordable at $25 for a double room and their food is delicious and generous at a very low price. Their house is comfortable, central and conveniently located and they are always at hand to make you laugh, share their family photos or if you prefer, give you space and privacy.

The room come with air conditioning, a private bathroom and all the homely comforts that you could look for in any homestay.

I stayed there on my own and found Maylen and her mother very helpful and sincere especially ...

Havana journal: Maybe the biggest disappointment so far....

Fri, 29 Jun 2007 09:28:49 GMT

When I was planning my trip, Cuba was a country that made me tingle with excitement. The prospect of sipping mojitos in a salsa bar on the streets of Havana was my inspiration. What I discovered however was the most complicated country ever, hordes of Cubans whose sole intention is to obtain your money either by sleeping with you, befriending you and making you pay for meals etc or by some other cunning method. Most people, by the way that this occurs to are sickening( mostly Italian, may I add which makes me ashamed of my race)tourists whose sole intention is to come to Cuba in search of a ...

Utila journal: Utila : Not Really Honduras ... but so much fun !

Wed, 27 Jun 2007 09:47:05 GMT

I can`t believe that in approximately ten days I am leaving the magical world of Latin America and returning to cold , grey England. Time has flown by. Which is why I had a welcomed two weeks in the pirate infested island of Utila. Though the inhabitants no longer practice the sea faring, blood thirsty career of their ancestors, a few of them still walk around with parrots on their shoulder and they would probably make you walk the plank if you crossed them. As far as being forced off a boat into treacherous open seas is concerned, it is the cheapest place on Earth ( so they said ) where you ...

Antigua journal: Guats in a weeks and a bit

Wed, 13 Jun 2007 18:59:40 GMT

One week and a bit in Guatemala really isn't enough. There is far too much culture to absorb and history to get a proper idea of what this country is about. It really reminded me of Bolivia in that the weavings are full of colour and the women continue to proudly wear their traditional bright clothes. It was certainly a culture shock to be back on buses that seemed to be on their last legs and to talk to a Latino whose first language was not Spanish.

Guatemala is bursting with beautiful countryside, wildlife, warmth, love and culture which has made it by far the most interesting place I ...

Bocas del Toro journal: Finally, the Real Caribbean

Fri, 01 Jun 2007 17:38:29 GMT

I think I have found my potential honey moon destination when I eventually marry my imaginary boyfriend,Pablo, a millionaire by virtue of his international fame as a top model. Isla Bastimento in the group of islands known as Boca Del Toro, is everything that you would imagine the Caribbean to be: chilled out, picture post card beaches, friendly Patois speaking locals and all the rum you can drink. It is a romantic and dreamy place that entwines Jamaican and Latin culture in a melting pot of tranquility. In short, I loved it.

Isla Bastimento is the least touristy of the islands. Avoid ...

San Jose journal: Which Country am I in ?

Sun, 20 May 2007 11:00:37 GMT

I don't know what to make of Costa Rica. So far, I have been spoilt by some of the most beautiful places in Latin America. What I have loved about them is their unique, rich culture and heritage. Not to mention the warmth, spirit and beauty of the people of the countries that I have visited so far. Costa Rica has left me slightly indifferent.

That's not to say that it isn't doesn't have it's own treasures. It has some of the world's cleanest and prettiest beaches. an abundance of wildlife and Central America's answer to the Amazon. But something is missing and I can't put my finger on ...

Maracaibo journal: Hotter than Hell.... but cooler.

Mon, 14 May 2007 16:51:57 GMT

If Bush needed a new method of torture to be used on suspected terrorists, I think he should consult my aunt and uncle who live in Maracaibo. If you were subjected to unbearable heat and humidity and were being force fed every imaginable Venezuelan delicacy, you would admit your guilt, whether it was true or not. It was so hot, you come out of the shower and already you are sweating. Of course, I don´t sweat, I glow.

Maracaibo is Venezuela´s second city. As the title suggests, it is baking hot. It is so hot that you cannot function without air conditioning and you cannot walk in the sun ...

Lima journal: Lima, Zapallal and Project Peru

Wed, 09 May 2007 12:46:41 GMT

There´s not much to say about Lima. It is a city like any other and I felt this way largely because I was staying Miraflores. This is the richer area of town and is a haven for any large commercial institution. Baranco is the Bohemian district and I really liked the Parque De Amor which is decorated with the amorous poems of famous Latin American poets and overlooks the Pacific. The centre is quite pretty but you are overwhelmed by everyone´s constant reminders that this one of the most dangerous cities on the continent.

Project Peru

M ost of you reading this web page have donated ...

Huacachina journal: Adrenline and Pisco Sours in Afro Peru

Sat, 28 Apr 2007 10:10:56 GMT

If you have ever been on a runaway roller coaster then you will know how it feels to go sandbuggying. Anyone who comes to this beautiful country has to experience this gut wrenching escapade in the middle of nowhere. Followed by a Pisco Sour or two by on the shore of Lake Huacachina.

I came to Huacachina specifically for this. I had spoken to a traveler about their experience and his description was,`mate, it was awesome`( he was Autrailian).-So I put my faith in him,hopped on a bus and a taxi later I was in this paradise that is supposedly the only real oasis in the world. I don`t ...

Nazca journal: Weird Science

Fri, 20 Apr 2007 13:49:27 GMT

Maria Reich was a fairly incredible woman. Without her, Nazca would just be another insignificant town in the Peruvian desert. She dedicated her life to the enigma of the lines that appear in the desert. Whilst living in total poverty, this lady left her home in Germany to measure, document and analyse why the Nazcas decided to illustrate the desert floor with picturesof a monkey, a man who appears to be an astronaut, a humming bird and many others.

I arrived in search of the sun, thinking that I might find it in the a place where it only rains for a couple of hours a year. I definitely ...

Arequipa journal: Every Nun`s Dream

Tue, 17 Apr 2007 14:18:39 GMT

A part from being a white stoned beautiful city, dominated by snow capped volcanoes, Arequipa is every Nun`s paradise.Those of you who are contemplating beatification, entering a convent or leading a particularly devoted religious life, this is the place to be. You can also descend into the depths of the world`s deepest canyon ( though this is disputed ) whilst you are at it.

If you take the bus from Cusco, you will arrive at around 6 am. This gives you a delightful experience of seeing the sun rise of over the Misti volcano as you pass through the shanty towns outside of the city. In ...

Cusco journal: Gringo Central

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 09:41:03 GMT

You can`t get away from the fact that Cusco is a city that thrives on tourism. I don`t blame it - tourists from all over the world invade the place all year round. Even though restaurants are ridiculously expensive, you are hounded by people asking you if you want a massage, and tour guides roam the streets just waiting to explain the history of the city for a small fee, there is something really special about Cusco. It is one of the prettiest and most interesting cities I have been to yet in South America.

Cusco was constructed in the shape of a Puma when it was founded by Incan ...

Machu Picchu journal: The Hills Are Alive

Tue, 10 Apr 2007 09:46:34 GMT

As you are aware by now, I haven´t been able to shut my mouth about the Inca Trail since I decided to travel through SA. I know that some of you have contemplated getting a welder in to weld my chops together in an effort to calm my constant reminders. In these past few days I have walked for over thirty kilometers in pursuit of a dream that I have had ever since I became passionate about travelling. I have braved the elements, learnt a lot about Peru and its past and made friends along the way. It has been a challenge to say the least, and the Inca Trail is not for the faint hearted nor for ...

Machu Picchu journal: Great Place To Stay

Tue, 03 Apr 2007 08:51:44 GMT

The Convent´s Hostel is the best value for your money in a city where accomodation fills up quickly and services are not great. Highly recommended.

Machu Picchu journal: My best experience yet

Tue, 03 Apr 2007 08:51:44 GMT

Walking to Machu Picchu for 4 days and 3 nights. Go with Peru Viajes who offer the best value for your money, they are affordable and friendly.

Copacabana journal: A Definite Highlight

Tue, 03 Apr 2007 08:37:01 GMT

A Few Words About Bolivia

I am writing this entry in Cusco, having spent the last month travelling in Bolivia, as you know. Even with all of its faults i.e. immense poverty, terrible transport and a definite lack of tourist infrastructure, I loved Bolivia. Not only is the landscape unusual and whimsical, but the people are beautiful and warm.

I was shocked when other people told me that Bolivians don`t talk to gringos because this simply is not true. The problem that many Bolivians have in relating to the gringo is that we ( I do not include myself) generally talk to Bolivians in a ...

Copacabana journal: Great Hostel to chill out in.

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 08:45:34 GMT

The hotel is new, the showers are boiling hot ( fantastic after travelling in Bolivia) and the staff are helpful and friendly.

La Paz journal: Thank God I arrived in one piece

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 08:38:28 GMT

Finally, after what seemed like an eternity, I arrived in La Paz. I was exhausted, suffering from a sudden cold and starving. I had been left slightly dazed and confused by the road block episode but I was so happy to arrive in La Paz.

When you approach La Paz from the South of Bolivia, you travel through mountains for miles. It seems like you are in a battered old coach ( literally ) on the road to nowhere. All of a sudden, you are confronted with a large, favela like metropolis that is on the same level as the snow cap of the surrounding mountains. La Paz is the highest capital in the ...

Sucre journal: I am Famous in Bolivia!!

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 15:10:14 GMT

I have now been on the Bolivian news twice in the space of a week! How great is that ? I haven`t been asked for autographs yet, but I carry a pen around with me in the hope that someone will recognise me....

I decided to spend a week in Sucre because it is a really chilled out city and I need a rest ! For those of you who have been sending me messages along the lines of `I am soooo jealous of you because you are travelling`, read on to find out why travelling has its moments of pure and utter desperation.

Sucre is a beautiful colonial city which is full of history and culture. It ...

Potosi journal: A City of Lawyers

Thu, 15 Mar 2007 14:52:21 GMT

When I arrived in Potosi, I was quite surprised to see that the town is dominated by lawyers. If you need legal help in Bolivia, Potosi is the place to be. I am thinking about completing my training contract here just because Potosi is such a great place. I have enquired at one law firm in particular, Santa Rita ( & Co ? ) who is, as the religious amongst you will know, the patron saint of impossible causes. Unfortunately, I didn´t get past the first interview.

A part from the legal aspect of the city ( most of you, I appreciate are not that interested)´Potosi is a colonial town 4300 ...

Uyuni journal: Where the World Ends

Sat, 10 Mar 2007 15:31:10 GMT

When I planned my trip to South America, I had no idea that Bolivia would hold one of the most amazing sites imaginable. For the past four days I have been left breathless by the beauty ( and the altitude) of the salt flats of Uyuni and the road from Tupiza to Uyuni. Anyone going to this continent MUST, without even a second thought, visit this wasteland that will give you an insight into the country´s landscape and it´s culture.

I set out from Tupiza ( using the best tour company - Tupiza Tours)with Isabelle, her boyfriend James, Sandy and Herbert. If any of you have done those annoying ...

Tilcara journal: A Death in Tilcara ....

Fri, 09 Mar 2007 06:20:33 GMT

After such a great time in Salta, I decided to head north towards the Bolivian boarder. Tilcara is the perfect stop off point before your cross over to Bolivia. It is a tiny indigenous town which is more Bolivian than Argentinian. My stay here was to be the first time that I have contemplated what it would be like to die falling off a mountain only to be impaled by a rather large cactus.

Tilcara is surrounded by barren mountains albeit the clusters of phallic like cactae. The truth is that Tilcara doesn´t offer much by way of cultural exploration a part from an interesting archeological ...

Tupiza journal: Another World

Sat, 03 Mar 2007 16:33:48 GMT

From Tilcara, I took a bus to La Quiaca where I crossed over to Villazon which is the main frontier town into Bolivia. I had a lot of time on my hands which I used to contemplate my time in Argentina. These are as follows ¨

I love Argentina. There is not enough time in the world to discover the whole country. If I wasn´t an Italian born in England, I would elect to be Argentinian. I love the contrast between the South and the North of Argentina. I love the people there, their openness, the way they are always ready to open up to you and share mate, their food, their experiences. Their ...

Salta journal: My Favourite Place So Far

Mon, 26 Feb 2007 06:33:20 GMT

Salta is my favourite place in Argentina so far. The city itself is full of beautiful colonial architecture but the Salteños ( people from Salta) are a rich mix of European and Incan descent. People are incredibly friendly here, Salta is famous for it´s role in the independence of Argentina and the countryside is unlike any other in the country. Salta is also famous for having really good food. It´s true !

Salta is home to the Museo Arquialogico della Montaña Alta. This is a fascinating museum about the discovery of three sacrificed Incan children who were hidden inside a religious site ...

Cordoba journal: Louder than London ( Seriously )

Thu, 22 Feb 2007 07:41:35 GMT

One thing about Cordoba - it is so loud ! The cars in Cordoba all seem to have amplifiers attached to their exhaust pipes, the mopeds all sound as if they are about to explode and road works are a part of local culture. But only at siesta time, obvioulsy. To make matters worse, my room didn´t have a fan so opening the window was a necessary evil. I also had to marvel at the idea that it is ok to fix things in the hostel at 7 a.m, when most people go to bed in Cordoba, but then stop at 10 a.m. for the rest of the day. Thank God for ear plugs and the countryside. I don´t even think that it was ...

Valparaiso journal: Valentine´s Day in Valparaiso : What a Mistake to Make

Thu, 15 Feb 2007 15:49:00 GMT

Get the violins out, I am about to tell you something which is sad and that I am totally ashamed of. I was alone on Valentine´s Day. If that isn´t enough to make me want to slit my wrists I had to share this emotion with about a million Chilean couples who at the best of times, kiss and canoodle like there is no tomorrow. Also, the place is really romantic anyway so you can imagine the looks of pity / aggression / confusion that I got. I felt like a tanned version of Bridget Jones.

Enough of that rubbish. All I have to say is that Valparaiso is once again, amazing and unlike anywhere ...

Santiago journal: Not Sure Which City I Prefer.....

Thu, 15 Feb 2007 15:20:30 GMT

I had the best time in Valdivia. I felt like I was with friends in the cute hostel there. You can imagine how gutted I was to leave and how tempted I was to stay. I wasn´t particularly looking forward to going to Santiago as everyone had told me how smoggy and dirty it is and of course, the crazy Argentinian assured me that Buenos Aires was soooo much better and that above all, the men ( well the women from his point of view ) are better looking in BA .....hmmmm I know there is at least one Chilean reading this so we will say no more about it..... !!!

Anyway, Santiago is competing ...

Santiago journal: Very environmentally friendly hostel

Thu, 15 Feb 2007 14:46:51 GMT

Valdivia journal: The City of Rivers

Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:20:56 GMT

I am feeling really inspired in this city. Valdivia is perhaps the nicest place I have been to in this part of the world. I have seen the most incredible wild life and experienced some of the humblest hospitality here. I just don´t want to leave ! Unfortunately, I have to catch a bus to Santiago tonight otherwise I will not leave.

When I arrived here, I was very disappointed. I had met other travellers who couldn´t say enough good things about Valdivia. The city looked like a shanty town from the the bus. I was beginning to feel disillusioned by my guide book which yet again had failed ...

San Martin de los Andes journal: The Best Way to Cross a Boarder

Mon, 12 Feb 2007 09:12:36 GMT

The title suggests that I stayed here fore a while. Actually, I only stayed here for the night. I can´t really tell you what the city was like. From the little that I saw, it looked like one of the many German influenced mountain towns in Southern Argentina. What I thought was spectacular was the crossing into Chile. If there is any way that you should enter Chile from Argentina, it is by taking the bus from San Martin De Los Andes to Valdivia.

The bus left at 11 o´clock in the morning and to be honest, i was not looking forward to a six hour bus ride during the day, especially because I ...

El Bolson journal: El Bolson: It´s Like Cosmic Maaaaaan

Tue, 06 Feb 2007 11:38:34 GMT

Everyone knows that EL Bolson is the cross roads for a highway of psychedelic energy and cosmic vibrations. It´s like spiritual maaaan. How they know this, I am not quite sure. Whatever it is, I don´t know but I love this place.

The town is nothing at all special. It looks like something you would expect in a Mormon community in Utah. There are no Mormons here though, only arty students and spaced out hippies. Which reminds me , I had a chocolate cake earlier which is starting to make me feel at one with nature and the universe...

The town is surrounded by mountains and forests. It ...

Bariloche journal: A Swiss Disney Land In Argentina

Tue, 06 Feb 2007 11:11:40 GMT

When you think of Argentina, Milka cow, chocolate and Heidi doesn´t immediately spring to mind does it ? No. After 18 hours on a bus ( which was amazingly comfortable I might add ), this is where I ended up. Quite literally, in a weird and wonderful replica of Switzerland.

Before I tell you about Bariloche, I want to tell you about the drive down to this city from Buenos Aires. Argentineans certainly know how to travel in style. Reclining chairs, waiter service and a stop in a restaurant for our dinner and breakfast was what I received. It was great and so much more luxurious than the ...

Buenos Aires journal: Maybe the most amazing city in the world

Mon, 05 Feb 2007 04:11:51 GMT

Finally I arrived in Buenos Aires after 13 hours on a plane !! I knew that I had landed in an amazing city , mainly because I have been here before and seen most of the sites. But what was also great about landing here was the clear blue sky, the heat and the feeling I was going to eat something amazing today. Oh and the men. It almost felt as if I was in Italy ...

I checked into my hotel and went for a walk around San Telmo which is the Tango district. It was also the district renowned for Southern European immigration. This area looks like it has been literally transported from ...

South America journal: South And Central America in 5ish months

Wed, 31 Jan 2007 14:05:59 GMT

As most of you reading this will know, I am travelling around South America and Central America for about 5 months. I got to Buenos Aires on 29th January 2007 and I will be going back on 26th June 2007.