Cognauts Blog on RealTravel

Moorea journal: Exploring Moorea

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 17:04:17 GMT

Our last full day of the trip. We rented a car and drove back up to Le Belvedere lookout again, a stupendous viewpoint, and no loud music this time. When we picked up the rental car the lady at the desk said – you must go to the distillery across the bay, they give out free samples, and lots of it, you will get real drunk – just hit it on the way back from your drive. Instead we drove a route around the island stopping for some kayaking and snorkeling out to the motu at Haruku point. We had lunch at Le Tipaniers.

We took a really rough dirt road, and tried to hike out to a waterfall, but ...

Moorea journal: Bali Hai Club Moorea

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 16:22:13 GMT

Good FP value and stunning views. The place was in need of some maintenance, and the water was murky, but reasonable rates for over water bungalows and some of the best views anywhere.

Moorea journal: On to our final island Moorea

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 16:22:13 GMT

Cheryl came up with the idea to hook some bread onto a thread from the sewing kit to test my theory about them seeing the bread just before it hit the water. Could have made a hook from the needle if we wanted to catch fish. They still would really tug on the line when ravaging the bread.

On the move again, to Moorea. After choking down our bill – this was the place of $5 Cokes. We had arranged to meet some French folks who lived in Moorea, a couple we met in the Marquesas (Marie & Jean Claude). She had given us their number, and agreed to meet us at the airport upon our arrival. They ...

Tikehau and Manihi journal: Relaxing on the porch

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 15:46:31 GMT

Spent the day lounging around in the majestic over water hut, ordering room service, beers, and snorkeling. Watched and fed the fish through the glass floor, with a little door to feed from next to the glass. Got a sunburn again. Where did the day go?

Similar beach and coral situation here, no real beach you could walk on barefoot, just some narrow strips along the water. There were piles of course sand they apparently were dredging up to replenish the sand periodically. But still sharp coral gravel and big chunks of coral everywhere. Not the pristine powdery sand I had imagined, and had ...

Tikehau and Manihi journal: Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 14:31:27 GMT

Poor food, poor coral, poor beach, but a lovely large bungalow.

Tikehau and Manihi journal: Off to Tikehau

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 14:31:27 GMT

Sadly leaving the peace of the Sauvage, and continuing to Tikehau. We had a room at the renowned Pearl Beach hotel on it’s own motu also. But found we did not have AC once we arrived. (The reason we booked this splurge), so looked for an upgrade. The place was not as empty as the Kia Ora, and was harder to get a good room. The only one available was right next to the pool with screaming unruly children, who were a menace the rest of our time there rolling around on the floor in the isles at dinner, constantly whining and crying. Nothing like the other awesome kids we had encountered. Luckily ...

Rangiroa journal: Isolated and peaceful

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 14:00:04 GMT

A great remote place, but expensive for such simple if nice surroundings

Rangiroa journal: Simple island life

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 14:00:04 GMT

The couple from Arizona departed with the technician after he fixed the generator, and we were past our water shortage conditions. It was just us and Bernard and Yann, but we were fortunate that it seemed like these were two of the coolest guys we had met in FP that we could be stranded here with, both old dive masters, seasoned travelers, and esp Yann spoke great English. The two kids, Melvin (Bernard’s Son) and Henae (Yanns daughter) both around 6yrs old were melow, and had fun exploring the island together. Melvin had very long curly black hair and a deep tan, I though he was a girl at ...

Rangiroa journal: Off to the Sauvage

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 13:27:07 GMT

Off to the remote Kia Ora Sauvage on the isolated other side of the lagoon! I think Sauvage means wild and savage in French. There are only 5 huts here, and a max of 10 guests on this motu. There were only 6 the first day, and 4 the next. It was a 1hr boat ride across the lagoon to the remote motu, and we became acquainted with Yann from Tahiti and his daughter. Yann turned out to be one of our best resources for information and communication. He was of heroic physique and proportions, and had a gentlemanly courteous manner to match. We had many talks with Yann at dinner and on the beach with ...

Rangiroa journal: Bike ride exploring Rangiroa

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 13:09:30 GMT

Had a nice sleep in the large king bed, and though the AC didn’t cool the whole place, the bedroom was nice overnight. Plan to Shoot the Pass today (a SCUBA drift dive with tidal water rushing into the center of the atoll for a thrilling ride). Our hot tub in front looked hideous, tea like, it had rained the night before, the tub was poorly positioned to take the run off from the grass roof and a guy came by and dumped some chlorine powder in making it look worse with stuff floating on top and piles of powder in the bottom.

It’s nice view from the porch looking out over the lagoon, and ...

Rangiroa journal: Disappointing Kia Ora Rangiroa

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 12:40:30 GMT

Was a little run down for the money, and poor beach and poor coral.

Rangiroa journal: On to the Tuamotus

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 12:40:30 GMT

On to the Toumotus – Rangiroa. These islands, or what were once islands, are now just circular atolls. No mountains, just Robinson Crusoe palm studded sand spits. Plan to do some drift diving, and shoot the pass – shooting through one of the small channels of the atoll as the tide comes in, and the water in the center rushes in.

Heading out early at 7AM, it was a long flight going back through Tahiti yet again, but we arrived at the supposedly luxurious Kia Ora Hotel in Rangiroa around Noon. It appeared a nice place set in a coconut grove, but our room was very tiny, and no place to put ...

Huahine journal: Shark feeding in Huahini

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 12:31:36 GMT

**Just back home yesterday and starting to get the rest of our daily blog entries uploaded. The last couple weeks we did much remote traveling and was just too difficult to get connected, but I did make daily journal notes. I'll try to backfill some of the other entries with more photos also **

Sunday March 25th

Huahini

We took another road out in the morning that went out onto a long motu, saw a huge Marea archeological structure with walls of flat volcanic pieces too high and vertical to easily climb. The road finally ended at the now decaying ruins of the Sofetel resort. ...

Huahine journal: Headed for Huahini

Thu, 05 Apr 2007 11:50:30 GMT

Headed for Huahini. Was very difficult to leave the black pearl condo behind. A very scenic 20 min flight from Bora Bora to Huahini, passing over Raetia and Taha. The Bora Bora topology from the air is stunning, and over the turquoise motus around Raitia “ahhhhh” inspiring.

Huahini was just what we wanted – wonderfully rural and undeveloped, laid back, no big resorts. No garbage all over the place, and you could actually go more than 50 yards without some kind of development or shack like on Bora Bora. It was like a lush garden, and super friendly people. We rented a car and drove around ...

Bora Bora journal: Hiking in the Heat

Mon, 26 Mar 2007 11:30:06 GMT

Tried to head out for an early hike, but spent 45min trying to clean out my newly infected ear. Too much swimming! Got a late start at 9:30A, and was already too hot. Early or late hikes are key in this humidity. We hiked the ridge out to Fitiiu point on the NE side of the island. We hiked to some old WWII guns and a concrete bunker. A nice tower of rock looking like a natural Tiki was on the way. A couple nice views, but otherwise the “trail” was overgrown and was hard to see much other than bushwhacking. There was a huge garbage dump on the north side of the peninsula where they were burning ...

Bora Bora journal: Enjoying Pearl Beach Resort

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 18:01:58 GMT

Slept in till 8AM, then got up and swam and snorkeled in the clear ocean – swam with another eagle ray. Then sat out on the porch and thoroughly enjoyed playing along with a Jack Johnson album on my guitar. Next we were off to the Pearl Beach Resort on a motu nearby. We took the boat over and had a big $100 lunch (a huge sashimi salad appetizer – been eating so much raw fish here every day, even I may get sick of it soon.), then enjoyed the resort facilities for the rest of the day, the beach here was phenomenal, fine powdery white sand, with a bunch of attractive over water bungalows strung ...

Bora Bora journal: Exploring Bora Bora

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 17:54:38 GMT

Enjoyed another batch of bacon and eggs on the porch in the morning. We made reservations at the Pearl Resort for lunch today & wondering if we’ll make it. It’s so nice here, we just want to hang out on the porch and swim. I never tire of feeding the brilliant energetic fish below the deck. I could stay right here doing nothing else for months looking out over the motus and canoes passing by. But we have such fun when we go out, and meeting such nice people - got to force ourselves to get out.

Decided to put off our trip to the Pearl till tomorrow, and go into tow to complete travel ...

Bora Bora journal: Day trip to Maupiti

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 17:47:02 GMT

Headed out for a day trip to Maupiti, know as the least developed of the Society Islands. This was a marvelous trip! It takes 2hrs by boat (The Maupiti Express) to get there, and we looked like some of the only tourists on the boat, 95%+ Polynesian, and a couple of guys were playing guitar and the cool Polynesian ukulele out on the front of the ship, singing, and many of the ship joined in singing also, with beautiful voices. The song sounded really nice, not sure what it was, but everyone seemed to know it. I captured this on video tape, and will be a perfect soundtrack when editing later. ...

Bora Bora journal: Time slipping by in Bora Bora

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 17:30:50 GMT

Another grocery shopping day, did some internet, Blog, email, bills, and started to wrap up our remaining travel arrangements. Came back and enjoyed more time on the porch.

Bora Bora journal: Kick back and relax in Bora Bora

Wed, 21 Mar 2007 14:38:50 GMT

Woke up early to high winds and heavy rain. It blocked the view of the motus, and created white caps on the otherwise lake-like placid lagoon. We had been listening to Harry Nilson’s old song on MP3 the night before - “Put the lime in the coconut, drink em both together, - call the doc and woke him up – is there nothing I can take, to relieve this belly ache”, joking about our consumption of lime and coconut in our drinks and in the raw fish. And not sure if that was it, but experienced a whole new meaning to “riding the gravy train” this morning.

Just kicked back on the porch, and went ...

Bora Bora journal: Paradise Found

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 15:10:45 GMT

In the mourning saw the unbelievable overdevelopment around us. The cool huts we were in were crammed into a slot of land about as wide as our stamped out development at home, and every inch was crammed with hotels of water taxis or restaurants or broken down houses. We were about 100 yards from the high end Intercontinental hotel with it’s $800/night over water bungalows. And though it was a nice setup, they were crammed in like everyone else. Though it was still nice. Went for a swim in the warm ocean before having a shower. Saw a huge ray in the sandy shallows, and a couple large dead ...

Bora Bora journal: On to Bora Bora

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 15:06:48 GMT

Headed back to Tahiti, and then on to Bora Bora. A long series of flights – Nuku Hiva, Papeete, Raitia, and finally Bora Bora, coming in just at sunset – FANTASTIC! Probably the most dramatic island contours on earth. The airport is on one of the small motus(islands) in the atoll surrounding the main island. Multi-hued shallows of reef and sand like an opal through the transparent waters. Unfortunately by the time we got going on the boat to the main island, is was dark, so have to wait till the morning to see the glory up close. Our room at the Temanuata pension was a nice authentic grass hut ...

Hiva Oa journal: Exploring Hiva Oa with 4WD

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 15:02:08 GMT

Rented a 4WD and toured Hiva Oa, driving 3hrs one way along rugged roads along cliff edges, then back again. Came to a glorious village on the far side – Paumau, with sheer cliff and rocky outcroppings, some looking like Tiki’s (or Ti’I’s as the call them here). Had a really incredible feast at Maria Antoinette’s Restaurant in Paumau – incredible raw tuna in coconut milk, a Polynesia Poi of mashed dried fruit baked, Some kind of meat in a cabbage stew, Papaya, Starfruit, other stuff, and delicious star fruit juice. Visited possible the best preserved Polynesian archeological site Lipona, with ...

Hiva Oa journal: Boat trip to nearby island

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:56:16 GMT

Went on boat trip out to one of the nearby islands – Tahuata. Visited a small village, and then went to a secluded beach and had lunch cooked on a campfire. Swam in the clear blue waters for probably over an hour total on and off and lounged in the shade and explored the beach. Got terribly sunburned. The sea here seems incredibly salty, and you can float on your back easily like a salt lake, even take a nap on top of the water. The captain, first mate, and a French couple also touring were friendly, and we were able talk with them a bit. The waters here are an incredible dark indigo blue, but ...

Hiva Oa journal: Exploring Hiva Oa

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:51:36 GMT

We were able to sleep in – the hostess here was not as regimented as on Nuku Hiva where we had to be there for breakfast at 7AM each morning. We took a late walk into the village and hit the post office hoping to get internet access, but no luck and had to carry the laptop around on the hot sweaty, sweltering hike.

Saw some more examples of the sexual ambiguity here, part of the Polynesian culture we were told by a guide, and that often the men would be killed in human sacrifice or warfare, so often one male child in a family would take on a feminine role. No one seems to care, and ...

Hiva Oa journal: On to next island in Marquesas - Hiva Oa

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:44:45 GMT

Off to Hiva Oa late today. Wish we had more time here, some amazing things like the worlds 3rd largest waterfall we never got to see – but also harsh. So hot, humid, unwelcoming, and harsh here, feel like we are on the survivor series. The cruise ship (Paul Gauguin) is shuttling mostly elderly tourists back and forth, and more activity from the locals playing music and selling handycrafts.

Finally a ride to the airport (the ride to the airport is much longer than our flight, took 1hr 45min this time, and only 1hr with the dangerously speedy driver), a nice lady who stopped a couple times ...

Hiva Oa journal: Exploring Nuku Hiva Wild Lands

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:27:58 GMT

Got up for the inflexible 7AM breakfast of fruit (taken from the myriad fruit trees growing wild everywhere around the island), and bread. More blank looks, and no one appearing to even try to talk to us. Fortunately one couple had a little girl who wanted to interact, and helped to break the ice, more on this later. Cheryl’s ear infection doing a little better, treating it with the same drops we got at a pharmacy in Cairns, which appeared to pretty much clear up my ear ache.

Jocelyn showed up at 8:30A at the hotel as planned, and with a heavy French accent, took us in her older Land ...

Hiva Oa journal: Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Arrival

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:23:38 GMT

My Birthday today! 44 years young. We headed out to the Marquises. It was nice to see some of Tahiti’s reef from the air. Clear waters of all sorts of shades of blue and green.

The Marquises do not have reef and surrounding atolls (motu’s), but are more remote, wilder, and closer to the equator. So hot and humid in Tahiti, like Cairns – and the Marquises are even closer to the equator, so expecting worse. My ears have largely cleared up, but Cheryl’s still a painful headache as we head out to the middle of the ocean. Unfortunately the FP kids just got out of school for 3wks, and the ...

Tahiti journal: Arrival - Tahiti French Polynesia

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:18:25 GMT

***Uploading a bunch of older entries from Bora Bora today (Mar 19th), this one from Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas. It is very very slow and expensive, and not sure if the photos are uploading, so will need to add photos later for Sydney and French Polynesia, though I will try to get a few in here. ***

TAHITI - Up early and on our way to Tahiti! It was like having our own private jet on the way there. The flight was not even ¼ full, and we were able to get exit row seating, and Cheryl took an entire center row to lay down and sleep. Crossing the date line, we arrived the day before we ...

Sydney journal: More Sydney Exploration

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 13:50:22 GMT

More exploring Sydney. The more I see, the more I like this place. We took a tour of the opera house in the morning, great to hear and see more of the splendid complex. Unfortunately the architect was caught up in politics over the long construction period, an left the country after the exterior was completed, and was not involved in the construction of the inside. He has never returned to Sydney since. We took a lunch cruise around the bays, a eventually to darling harbor (the other side of the city center). The city reminds me a little of San Francisco.

Then we took a walk through the ...

Sydney journal: Exploring Sydney

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 13:46:39 GMT

Took a walk from the hotel around the circular quay (end of the small Sydney harbor) to the wondrous opera house. This really blew me away. I always thought it was constructed of canvas like the Denver Airport, but it is concrete and tile, and incredibly awesome. This is the most beautiful man made structure I have ever seen. So many aesthetic details. The style is timeless, not like art deco or classical Greek. It’s a perfect thing, like some incredible natural formation. Likely inspired by sea shells and sea animals like the giant clam. We have reservations at the restaurant tomorrow. It’s ...

Sydney journal: Beautiful Sydney Cityscape

Wed, 07 Mar 2007 06:14:53 GMT

We packed up and headed for the airport after doing some shopping and finally uploading most of a weeks worth of blog material at a cafe. Hopefully our hotel in Sydney will have Internet. It was a great view flying in, a huge city with many islands and bays, and lots of buildings. Checked into the Sydney hotel, and though they said they had in-room internet access, just like the last place, and others, no luck . We went out and explored the glorious city at night, fantastic colors of the city reflected in the water. We had a room right below the huge bridge (largest arch bridge in the world – ...

Cairns journal: Drive to rain forest and Cape Tribulation

Wed, 07 Mar 2007 06:11:01 GMT

Slept in and awoke with a bit of a hang over, fortunately were so tired the night before, didn’t hang out all night with the boat crew. The tremendous bathroom shower here is worth the price of the room alone, and brought us back to life.

We rented a car in the afternoon, and drove up past Port Douglas to Cape Tribulation at the end of the paved road in the Queensland rainforest on the North West Coast. It was a nice drive along the coast, and we had heard we would likely see some wallabies and cassowary’s (large Ostrich-like birds). The only sign we saw of them were numerous road signs ...

Great Barrier Reef journal: Dive, eat, dive, eat, dive, eat....

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 18:37:41 GMT

An early morning to fit in 3 dives before noon on the last day. More fantastic reef locations. The big boat was great to dive from. One of the reasons for selecting this charter, was that other operations are permanently moored on the reef at one location, and then they take you out on day trips to various reefs. We, on the other hand were free to roam about, and had the nice big boat with facilities right at each dive site.

We headed back (another 3hr tour) from the GBR to Cairns, and all met up at a local pub on the waterfront for dinner, drinking and more stories. What a great group ...

Great Barrier Reef journal: SCUBA Extravaganza!

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 18:28:03 GMT

A little more leisurely on Sat, since we were already out on the reef, did 4 dives, and lots of time to relax, and have fun with the crew and other divers. It was interesting for me, to be the old man on the ship, probably by 8 yrs, everyone was very young including the Dive supervisor and Captain, as well as all other divers. And a great energetic boisterous group they were. This came out in some of the physical challenges we undertook in evening games – come on blokes, even old Jeff can do it!

Had consistently great meals, the chef was very skilled. Took a lot of underwater photographs ...

Great Barrier Reef journal: Heading out on the SCUBA Live aboard

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 18:14:49 GMT

SCUBA live aboard, Great Barrier Reef. Writing all this up after the fact, will try to remember it as it happened. WOW, what a great trip. Appeared to almost get canceled due to a Cyclone, but turned out to be great weather. A long 3hr boat ride out to the reef. It was a great bunch of folks riding along, and a great crew, and great boat. We did the “Pro-Dive” cruise on the Pro-Div III. In particular Tristan ( the dive supervisor), and Mark (the Captain) were awesome. We were lucky enough to get the nicest room with a huge window and queen bed instead of bunk beds.

The first dive was ...

Cairns journal: Great views and location on the Esplanade

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 18:11:02 GMT

Cairns journal: Exploring Cairns

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 18:11:02 GMT

Had a day in Cairns looking for a video shop to replace the stolen video camera and digital still camera. Realizing only PAL format (Not NTSC) supported here, so will have to do without unless can find one in a duty free shop. Really missing my video camera, and will miss the memories it records.

More housekeeping, washing clothes, checking wetsuits, packing for the live aboard, and taking a Reef Teach course on the underwater animals. Wondering if the cyclone coming in will cancel the trip like the Heli-hike.

Cairns is a nice laid back ocean front city, but very humid and hot.

Cairns journal: Robbed in Christchurch the night before departure

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 18:06:13 GMT

Robbed in Christchurch. Dropping off the camper and heading to Australia. Someone broke into our Camper and stole my precious digital video camera, our digital camera, and some cash and travelers checks. They used something to puch through the lock on the drivers side. Ironic for this to happen in the country that appeared to me to have the most trustworthy kindest folks anywhere I have been. Bummer, I had not downloaded photos for several days, but at least have some from most of the first part of the trip. So no photos for the blog for a few days, hope to pick up a new camera soon. We ...

Christchurch journal: Drive through Arthur's Pass

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 17:58:47 GMT

On through Arthur’s pass, and back to Christchurch, unfortunately here like most of the country over the last few days was shrouded in clouds and couldn’t see the peaks. But some nice mountain views after crossing over, and relieved to be heading back to the east coast and away from the irritating insects. Cheryl heard that the Maori’s understand the Sand Flies were a gift from their gods to keep the people away. These and the mosquitos have been the only downside to an incredible countryside.

Stopping at a camp site very near Christchurch for our last night. Met a nice couple from ...

Goldsboro journal: Glacier Heli-hike Canceled Due to Weather

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 17:55:01 GMT

Fox Glacier Heli-hike day. The Rain stopped in the morning, and the clouds broke momentarily exposing some of the crags above, only to sock in even lower. Wondering if we’ll get to do the Helihike. It’s incredible here, like a combination of two of my favorite places - Switzerland and Hawaii in one place, giant craggy mountains sitting in a jungle.

Argg, the Helihike was canceled due to the cloudy weather, and we set off to return to Christchurch. Turns out to be a good thing since we had a very long way to drive. Went through Fans Joseph Glacier, and took a short hike in. Had some ...

Fox Glacier journal: Journey to Fox Glacier

Tue, 27 Feb 2007 01:03:40 GMT

Drive to Fox Glacier. Had the camper tilted a little too much with feet up in the air and got heart burn in the night. Made some delicious bacon and eggs in the morning as we watched a storm down the lake in the direction we needed to go. We drove through the rain and some of the most traffic and tourists yet. Was not able to stop at one spot due to lack of parking. Otherwise we have been amazed that the traffic and camp sites have been very very light for this high tourist season. Rarely need to pull over to let folks pass ole Jethro. But we often get a late start, and arrive late after a ...

Wanaka journal: Drive to Wanaka

Tue, 27 Feb 2007 00:34:16 GMT

Driving out of Glenorchy to Wanaka. But first our initial time cleaning out the waste water and toilet which we have not used much, and turned out to be very easy to do. Back through busy Queenstown, and on to Wanaka (a little too close to the spelling of Wanka, but turned out to be nice), another beautiful area with mountains and huge lakes, a bit like Queenstown, but less built up and a little less majestic. Found a great camp site overlooking the lake and some crags. But not before getting seriously stuck in the sand trying to camp on the beach. Got more stuck trying to get out, and ...

Queenstown journal: Drive from Milford to Glenorchy

Tue, 27 Feb 2007 00:23:41 GMT

Headed for Queenstown from Milford. More fantastic driving and constant stopping to ogle the ever changing view around each twisty stretch of road in Milford Sound. The view was constantly evolving even staying in one place as the clouds would partially block and then set free alpine vistas. Drove all the way to Glenorchy back into the less touristed mountains after we saw the horrible dense build up of shops and lodging in Queenstown. It is beautiful all along the huge Z shaped lake, taking about 2 hrs to drive it’s length. But a somewhat muted impact after being immersed in the magnificent ...

Moeraki journal: Drive frm Christchurch to Moeraki Boulders

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 13:10:48 GMT

Cheryl’s Birthday! We picked up the camper van, but got a hassle doing so, they said that our reservation had been canceled. Then tried to palm off a really thrashed looking vehicle which was cockeyed from the front, had a missing mirror, door loose, and peppered with dents and scrathes. As it was, we still got a very well worn vehicle (325KM – over 200K miles). It had lots of nice features, and probably was very nice in it’s first 100Kmi. It was still in amazing shape considering the mileage and the number of folks who must have rented it over the years.

We could go on and on about the ...

Oceania journal: Jeff & Cheryl's Oceania Adventure

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 13:10:48 GMT

We are headed to New Zealand, Australia, and French Polynesia departing Feb 5th from Sacramento California for about 2 months.

Wrapping up all the preparation to leave, finishing work, house and animal sitting, Bills, and the details of our incredible itinerary. We will rarely be staying in one place more than 1 night.

We'll be renting a camper van in NZ, a SCUBA live aboard in AU, and finally lots of island hopping in FP.

This will be the longest and most diverse vacation we have ever had - the trip of a lifetime!

Milford Sound journal: Wonderous Cruise Through Milford Sound

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 13:01:24 GMT

Milford Sound Cruise – We took a magnificent cruise through Milford Sound (actually named wrong – it is a Fiord, not a Sound (a Sound is Fresh Water, a Fiord is connected to the ocean). We cruised out to the mouth of the sound/fiord, and back again on the other side of the shore/cliffs. It was incredible how close to the cliff the captain was able to get the ship, literally less than 5 ft from the cliff in some cases, and right under giant waterfalls. We were lucky they had rain the night before, because it filled the valley with countless waterfalls. Stunning beauty and scale. The size of the ...

Milford Sound journal: Drive to Milford Sound

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 12:53:59 GMT

Drive to Milford Sound. We stopped and checked out the unusual Petrified forest on the beach/rocks at Curio bay. Unfortunately it was raining, but we went out with gortex, and still got soaked, but the tide was low, and we got to walk though and see the curious petrified stumps sticking out of the flat rocky shore, with fallen petrified trees laying along side. This was a world class wonder.

Then headed for the very long drive through the rest of the beautiful untouched Catlins, and on to Inverness, then to Te Anu, before Milford Sound. Lots of flat land leading up to the mountains, ...

Curio Bay journal: Awesome view, right by petrified forest

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 12:45:15 GMT

Curio Bay journal: Drive to the Petrified Forest on the Beach

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 12:45:15 GMT

Drive from Moerake to Curio Bay. Got an Awesome camp site on a bluff with 360 degree views overlooking the ocean, cliff, beaches, and a petrified forest. This was terrific, like a RVing commercial, with the huge panoramic windows in the vehicle. Another long drive and I misnavigated to a light house on some very long slow dirt roads in the Catlins. Very pretty though, and we made it to the lighthouse where we saw a seal family on the beach, the baby came right up to me, until the mother roared and sped towards me, electrifying me and sent me scurrying back up into the grass.

Wellington journal: Drive to Wellington

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 03:42:41 GMT

Another long drive from Tongariro to Wellington. Getting ready to take the ferry across to the south island tomorrow morning.

Did laundry, tried to send a fax to Tahiti, did email and blog entries. Made some sandwiches in the room.Lots of time over the last couple days dealing with the logistics of travel. The down side of trying to pack so much into our trip, rarely stopping for more than one night at any location, and traveling 100’s of miles a day. We didn’t have a chance to really see Wellington at all

I keep feeling this is a true utopia here in New Zealand. I have been struck ...

Christchurch journal: Drive to Christchurch

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 03:36:17 GMT

A long drive from Punakaiki to Christchurch cutting through the northern end of the NZ alps, through the Lewis Pass from East Coast to West Coast and into Christchurch. Wonderful scenery along the way. We met a nice couple from the Maldive Islands at the Hotel, and had a great Thai Feast across the street. This is the last night at a Hotel, and we pick up the RV tomorrow morning. Tomorrow also Cheryl's Birthday!

All the mountains here from small hills to giants appear to have an unusually steep incline. Driving the terrific roads is a pleasure in itself.

Tonight in ...

Punakaiki journal: Ocean view across parking lot

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 02:49:47 GMT

Punakaiki journal: Punakaiki Paradise

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 02:49:47 GMT

We drove down the coast (only 45mins) to Punakaiki – WOW. The scenery here just keeps blowing me away. We checked into our hotel, and headed out for some short hikes and drives along the coast. First we hit the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks, an amazing Disneyland-like landscape of layered rocks and lush jungle vegetation in headland into the surf. Blow holes and unbelievable paths though the rock formations were stunning. Huge primeval stone cliffs tier down to the coast. Then we headed out to the Truman Track, a phenomenal trail though the jungle to coastal caves and beaches. Derek told us to keep ...

Westport journal: Huge house overlooking the ocean, near tavern in a rural setting

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 02:28:12 GMT

Westport journal: Cape Foul Wind Waves and Brews

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 02:28:12 GMT

Drove to Westport from Abel Tasman, out to Cape Foul Wind. This was an unexpectedly enjoyable stop, using up one of our flex days, originally intended as a stop over on our way to Punakaiki. We found a cool house away from the city (the Beach House) we rented for the night, and was just around the corner from a rural pub (the Star Tavern). There were beautify beaches with caves and rock formations just down from the house, and a wonderful cliff walk and bay up the road. Cheryl found a live bluish octopus on the beach. A great surfer spot. After exploring the beaches during the day, we washed ...

Abel Tasman National Park journal: Ocean Kayaking in Abel Tasman

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 02:12:04 GMT

The next morning we rented some sea kayaks, and paddled several miles across the bay out to some wild islands, stopping on the ocean side of Adele Island at a secluded beach, and had a sandwich and some lemonade we packed. Then crossed back to mainland of Able Tasman, and toured along the idealic beaches nestled in the cliffs and jungle weaving through the rocks with our kayaks. Weird rock formations and caves along the cliffs. It was a long hard trek against the wind out to the islands, but easier returning with the wind to our backs. The water here is extremely clear, and many very shallow ...

Abel Tasman National Park journal: Great log cabin, nice view

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 01:59:55 GMT

Abel Tasman National Park journal: Ferry to South Island, and Drive to Abel Tasman

Sun, 18 Feb 2007 01:59:55 GMT

We got up early to gas and drop the rental car and take the ferry across to the south island. It was a long ferry trip (over 3hrs) and I think the largest ferry I have been on. They even had a movie theater in the bottom of 8 levels. Picked up a new rental car on the other side in Picton, and back on our way. We took the twisty Queen Charlotte Drive from Picton to Nelson – a densely lush and steep mountainous way, with ocean inlets almost like fiords. Later through the inland mountains we saw much signs of logging clear cutting, making us appreciate the areas that had not been stripped, and ...

Rotorua journal: Tubing in Waitomo Caves and on to Rotorua

Tue, 13 Feb 2007 00:23:44 GMT

Black Water Rafting. In the morning we explored the Wiatomo Caves floating in inner tubes, dressed in wet suits and helmets with lights. This was a blast! Jumping off water falls and climbing through underwater streams all in pitch black. Except in some of the areas that were so thick with glow worms on the ceiling it actually lit up the chamber when you turned off your light. Most of the corridors had at least some glow worms, looking like green stars above.

Then another long drive through more lush hilly rural country to Rotorua, where there’s thermal activity and geysers like ...

Rotorua journal: Super Lakeside self contained Studio - most accomodating host

Tue, 13 Feb 2007 00:23:19 GMT

Tongariro National Park journal: Great Views, very rustic challet

Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:52:50 GMT

Tongariro National Park journal: Wonderous Volcanic Mountains

Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:52:49 GMT

Zorbing, Drive to Tongoriro. Rotorua itself was a disappointing tourist trap – Cheryl went Zorbing in a plastic sphere, with a bucket of water tossed inside. These were originally designed to walk on water. We decided to get the hell out of the stinking thermal sulfur tourist area, and continue south to Tongariro. These beautiful volcanic mountains are a ski area in the winter, and featured in the Lord of the Rings movie. Great other worldly landscapes here, and we managed to get a rustic old cabin overlooking giant cinder cone mountains from the side of snow streaked Mt Ruapehu. We were in ...

Waitomo journal: Drive South to Wiatomo Caves

Sat, 10 Feb 2007 00:27:13 GMT

Another beautiful drive, always taking us longer than expected. It was supposed to be about a 4.5hr drive, but took us more like 5.5 with some short stops. Lush green hills and coastal areas. The roads are excellent, and very easy driving on the oposite side of the road here. Drove back though Auckland on the way. Turning into farming areas further south, but still very hilly. Sheep and cows. Except for Auckland and some of the beach areas, most places are very rural. Auckland is by far the largest city in NZ. Finally found a hotel with internet access near Wiatomo after calling 5 ...

Waitomo journal: Great Menu - Delicious

Sat, 10 Feb 2007 00:26:33 GMT

Waitomo journal: Rare internet access - spotless

Sat, 10 Feb 2007 00:26:33 GMT

Tutukaka journal: Tutukaka Diving

Sat, 10 Feb 2007 00:04:44 GMT

Got up early and headed to the dock to take a boat out to the Poor Knights islands for some SCUBA diving. It was a brutal 1hr trip out to the islands, out boat claiming to be the fastest. It was like being hit by a truck and knocked weightless every 3 to 6 seconds across to the islands, with huge choppy swells. Someone broke their leg in three places the day before on the hammering ride. The islands themselves were unexpectedly beautiful, with giant cave studded cliffs. Jacque Cousteau said this was one of the top 10 dives in the world. It was a strange mix of tropical and cold water life ...

Tutukaka journal: Tutukaka Coastline

Fri, 09 Feb 2007 23:56:31 GMT

A beautiful drive to Tutukaka north of Auckland. The terrain here is a strange mix of Hawaii, Mendicino, and England in the Northern hemisphere. The buzz of cicadas is al about. Humid and warm. Checked into the Pacific Rendezvou, with it’s incredible view perched on the headlands. We could sit out on the panoramic porch here forever, looking out over Tutukaka bay and the ocean, and Poor Knights islands in the distance.

Took a drive along the coast and hiked down the cliff to one of the isolated beaches. Sat on the porch and watched the boats battle the turbulent waves. Apparently a big ...

Tutukaka journal: Incredible View

Fri, 09 Feb 2007 23:55:01 GMT

Auckland journal: Arrival in Auckland

Tue, 06 Feb 2007 19:16:17 GMT

Arrival in Auckland, New Zealand!

Flight was delayed an hour leaving from LA, but still got to Auckland only 30min late. But was early in the morning (6:30A landing). Met a nice couple from NZ in LA on the way here(Terry & Glad). Flight felt really cramped in the center seats on the 747, so glad to get out of the plane. We barely got any sleep on the plane, feeling almost delirious upon arrival. We got to our hotel by about 8:30A, and not able to check in yet as expected, so left our luggage and started exploring the city by foot. We walked down to the docks and saw the waterfront, and ...

Folsom journal: Last Day of Prep before Leaving!

Sun, 04 Feb 2007 21:36:31 GMT

We're about 1/2 done with packing, and wrapping up all the loose ends before leaving tomorrow.

This is going to be awesome, the best trip we could put together without going to places we have already been.

The sun is shining, and it's about 64 Degrees F here today.

First stop - Auckland New Zealand.

Folsom journal: Trip Preparation

Thu, 25 Jan 2007 13:20:48 GMT

Stressful preparation trying to wrap up the trip details and square things away for our lengthy absense. But the good thing is - only one more day of work for me, then have a week free to complete preparation before departing.