LizCBs Blog on RealTravel

United Kingdom journal: Scottish summer

Mon, 21 Jul 2008 15:37:42 GMT

Three weeks, rucksack, midge repellant and full waterproofs at the ready. Islands, Western Highlands and Cairngorms is the plan, but will see where the weather/train/bus takes me...

Queenstown journal: Demons and Angels on Ben Lomond

Fri, 20 Jul 2007 18:43:49 GMT

The day started well. A gloriously sunny morning, after a wet and dreary previous day at Milford Sound.

I drove from Te Anau and made it to Queenstown a little before midday and headed straight out to my planned afternoon destination. The gondola took me to get a bird's eye view of the town, and from there I began my hike. I had decided to go up to Ben Lomond Saddle (according to the local information, this would take me a couple of hours, the full ascent to the summit woule be more like 3 or 4 - not advisable on a short winter day, despite the clear, sunny and really rather warm ...

Glenorchy journal: Kinloch and around

Fri, 20 Jul 2007 17:34:21 GMT

After another lazy morning in Queenstown, it was time to leave and head off on the first leg of our driving adventure.

We drove out of town and north along the edge of Lake Wakatipu towards Glenorchy. We didn't stop in the village but drove right to the very north end of the lake, from where roads lead to Routeburn and Paradise, over the river Dart and then south again along a gravel road to Kinloch Lodge, our home for the night. By this time it was mid afternoon so I decided to go for a walk along the lake. I borrowed Delilah, whose serices had been offered as a local guide, and spent ...

Queenstown journal: Deer Park Heights

Sat, 23 Jun 2007 23:11:42 GMT

After Arrowtown, we headed back through Queenstown to the Kelvin Heights area, across Lake Wakitipu from the main town. We drove up to Deer Park Heights, a working Deer farm on a large area of hilly land where visitors can drive around and meet the animals (not just deer!)

It was a really fun afternoon, encountering donkeys, alpacas and goats, seeing bison, red deer and highland cattle, plus fantastic views of Queenstown, Lake Wakitipu and The Remarkables mountain area.

We walked around at the top of the hill, around small mountain tarns and rocky outcrops. After Arrowtown ...

Arrowtown journal: Autumn colours in Arrowtown

Sat, 23 Jun 2007 22:48:04 GMT

After a late night out in Queenstown, Sarah and I finally got ourselves moving and got into our hire car for our first little foray into the New Zealand countryside. Arrowtown is a short and scenic drive from Queenstown and we enjoyed a good couple of hours strolling by the river seeing the old Chinese Miners' village, and walking in the main street. A lovely little place with a good atmosphere. We could have spent longer there......!

Fox Glacier journal: More glacier fun!

Sat, 23 Jun 2007 22:42:50 GMT

After the previous day's glacier 'taster' session I decided that a full day of ice was called for so I hopped on the bus nice and early for the short drive to Fox, the quieter and slightly less steep neighbour of Franz.

As with the previous day, we were kitted out with boots and spiky metal bits so we could walk on the ice safely. The first section of the hike was not on ice. The sun was out and we had some lovely views of the ice and valley sides. We also saw a chamois which hadn't heard us coming and promptly galloped up the valley side away from us as we came near.

After ...

Abel Tasman National Park journal: Coastal paddling and wandering

Sat, 23 Jun 2007 21:08:36 GMT

As I couldn't decide whether to go sea kayaking or walking in Abel Tasman National park, I decided to do both.

I was collected from my lovely hostel in Nelson and driven to Marahau, on the southern edge of the Park. There I was issued with a large sack containing a cooking kit, to which I added my overnight bag before it was sent ahead of my to a hut up the coast where we would (hopefully) be reunited for the evening.

The kayaks were all two-person issues and the whole group were kitted out with splash skirts and lifejackets before we set off on our journey up the coast. I was in ...

Greymouth journal: Down the west coast

Sat, 23 Jun 2007 20:25:46 GMT

A long bus ride from Nelson to Greymouth might have been rather tedious had our journey not been broken for us with frequent stops at interesting spots along the rugged, windy west coast of the South Island.

Stops at a seal colony and then at the 'Pancake Rocks' (American-style, not British pancakes as we realised when we saw them) were great opportunities to stretch our legs and get that wonderful windswept feeling to remind us we were heading south ad winter was approaching! The rugged coastline is not unlike the west coast of the British Isles and the waves were rolling in and ...

Monterey Peninsula and the Big Sur Coast journal: Monterey Bay area

Fri, 15 Jun 2007 21:28:23 GMT

After a rather nice lie-in, I dragged myself out of the hostel at about 10:00am and found a bus to take me to Old Monterey, where I had the morning to kill before my bus to Big Sur.

I had a thoroughly enjoyable morning there..... I booked a whale watching trip for tomorrow and watched some lovely sea otters and seals in the bay from Fisherman's Wharf, before heading to the nearby Maritime Museum. The museum was a bargain - $3 and a good amout of information and artefacts about lighthouses, the European settlers in California, the coast's role in naval warfare and the local sardine ...

Picton journal: Crossing the Cook Strait to the South

Mon, 11 Jun 2007 00:11:37 GMT

The ferry crossing from Wellington to Picton was significantly more interesting than any ferry I have taken from Dover/Portsmouth/Dar Es Salaam.

The first hour or so was nothing special as we left Wellington harbour and entered the Strait, part of Marlborough Sounds. Tha was fine, as it gave me time to plan my journeys south with my new-found German travelling companion who was on the same crossing.

The last two hours of the 3 hour crossing were wonderful, if rather windswept. from a distance we sighted the south island, with a few snow-capped peaks and then the rocky headlands ...

Rotorua journal: Letting off steam

Sun, 10 Jun 2007 23:14:17 GMT

Wednesday 9 MayArrived in Rotorua in the late afternoon with enought time to put my bags down before heading out to Tamaki Maori village for the cultural show I had pre-booked. Always slightly apprehensive about these sorts of things bu the evening turned out to be quite fantastic. We were first taken to watch an introduction to the history of the Maori people in Aetoroa (New Zealand), explaining their journey south there from their Pacaific island homes. Our jovial, humourous coach driver/guide explained the greetings and the events that would take places when we arrived at the village. We ...

Wellington journal: Afternoon in Wellington

Wed, 30 May 2007 16:01:01 GMT

The drive from Taupo had taken us along the Desert Road with stunning views of Tongariro National Park on the way. We continued south and arrived in Wellington shortly before 3:00pm so had some time to see the capital city before dark.

I spent some time in Te Papa - the National Museum, to where I will return when I pass through again in a few weeks time.

I then spent the last hour of light walking around the sea front near the harbour watching locals enjoying the end of their weekend as the sun dipped behind the surrounding hills.

Tongariro National Park journal: Crossing Tongariro

Wed, 30 May 2007 15:54:54 GMT

The Tongariro Crossing - a World Heritage walk accross the volcanic landscape of the central North Island.

The day started early with a 6.15 pick-up from the hostel in Taupo followed by a 90 minute drive past Lake Taupo southwards towards the Tongariro National Park.

It was rainy and cold when we set out and I was very happy that I had dressed for the occasion in full thermals and my new cold-weather gear recently purchsed in Auckland.

The first section of the walk was fairly flat but had rolling hills with large tussocks of grass and scrubland dotted with rocks and boulders. ...

Waitomo Caves journal: Caves and countryside

Wed, 09 May 2007 20:39:04 GMT

The first stop on my bus tour was Waitomo, where, not being in a huge hurry, I decided to get off and spend a night.

We arrived around midday and spent the afternoon walking the 'Waitomo walkway' which was an easy stroll up and down rolling hills, past autumn colours and up to some caves (limestone country). We walked through some passages, saw waterfalls and some lovely forested areas with huge ferns. The sun was bright and hot, making the green hillsides bright and crisp.

The following morning I went to the Glow Worm caves (the reason for there being hostels in tiny Waitomo). ...

Kuala Lumpur journal: Kuala Lumpur

Wed, 09 May 2007 20:28:12 GMT

Not much to report from KL as it was really only a stop-off en route to New Zealand. Having travelling every other day for ten days I just spent my time relaxing & socialising.

I did go for an evening stroll and saw the Petronas Towers all iluminated at night and the following day went up the Sky Tower for an aerial view of the city.

Photos to follow

Auckland journal: Autumn days in Auckland

Tue, 08 May 2007 17:18:44 GMT

Having made it through the enormous immigration queues and then the customs department (who cleaned my walking boots for me and confiscated my orange) I eventually made it out into the open air of Auckland where I was met by a friendly face - always good.

Spent my first afternoon wandering around the town finding outdoorsy clothes to keep me warm and cosy when I go down to the South Island in the next few weeks. Also had to try to avoid an afternoon nap so fresh air and walking was a good idea.

Saturday ended up being rather a lazy day as I somehow slept until late morning, ...

Tanah Rata journal: Cameron Highlands

Tue, 01 May 2007 01:08:24 GMT

Arrived in the Cameron Highlands, specifically the town of Tanah Rata in the early afternoon on Monday after a six hour bus journey from George Town, Penang. The bus was the most spacious I've been in since leaving home, in fact more so than the coaches I've been on at home as well. Big wide seats, reclining, with legroom. Full-size coach but only a 27 seater as there were only 3 seats across (quite a change from te five in Tanzania!)

Found my hostel where I was met by the friendly owner who gave me some information and advice about the area. I went straight into town and ...

George Town journal: George Town, Penang

Sun, 29 Apr 2007 03:07:59 GMT

Arrived in George Town, Penang after a long day in two minivans, from Krabi to Hat Yai (southern Thailand) and then over the border into Malaysia as far as Penang, a small island off the west coast. George Town has a strong colonial history, clearly visible in the architecture. It also has distinct Indian and Chinese sections ('Little India' and 'Chinatown') where there is a good range of street stalls etc....

I have not made the best of my one day here in Georgetown. I set off with all good intentions this morning and wandered gently through deathly silent streets. For the first ...

Krabi journal: Afternoon in Ao Nang

Sat, 28 Apr 2007 07:38:37 GMT

Having returned from Ko Lanta in time for lunch I had the afternoon at my disposal. I was accompanied by a young Frenchman so had another opportunity to put my long-lost linguistic talents to the test. Decided, despite the torrential rain that had accompanied us most of the way back from Lanta, to head over the Ao Nang, the closet beach to Krabi, near to Railay, for the afternoon. Glad we did in fact. The weather cleared up and we had a good walk through the touristy bit of the town, then along the beach southwards to the edge of the limestone peaks which cut Railay off from Ao Nang by ...

Ko Lanta journal: Lazing on Lanta

Sat, 28 Apr 2007 07:25:43 GMT

It took half a day to get to Ko Lanta, a large island to the south-east of Krabi, as they had stopped the ferry and I had to go by minivan instead. The van ride was longer (as it had to go round the coast to a short car-ferry, rather than straight accross the sea) and, not having many passengers, did a round of collections and deliveries in the area before finaly delivering me to my little resort.

I stayed in a lovely little place called BeeBee bungalows, as one of about three guests. The whole of the island was very quiet (which is why I went - I had been tipped off by some German ...

Krabi journal: Mangroves, macaques and monitors...

Sat, 28 Apr 2007 07:09:24 GMT

Sea kayaking. Another activity that can be done by the coast without getting one's infected ear wet. Choosing DEET over factor 50 sun lotion was possibly inadvisable as I ended the day with rather red legs (which had previously been a healthy brown colour). (I've been more careful since then, the red bites show up nicely on my brown-again legs. I don't seem able to successfully combine insect and sun protection - am hoping that New Zealand next week won't have the insect problem as I've heard the sun is nastily strong - something to do with an Ozone shortage).

Anyway, back to my day ...

Krabi journal: Cooking in Krabi

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 07:22:40 GMT

Arrived in Krabi from Khao Sok on Sunday late morning and spent the rest of that day generally mooching around the pleasant, sleepy town that is Krabi, and planning my next eleven days up to Kuala Lumpur airport next Thursday!! I booked tours, ferries, buses and hostels and sampled a few fruit shakes (VERY nice and refreshing). Had a(nother) wonderful Thai meal in the evening - pork with ginger.....mmmm!...

Monday 23rd April

Up bright and early so I was ready and waiting when the songthew came to pick me up for my Thai cookery course.

I spent a thoroughly enjoyable morning ...

Khao Sok National Park journal: Limestone and leeches!

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 07:03:08 GMT

Arrived late morning from my overnight bus and spent my first day relaxing and wandering a short way into the rainforest (sorry, apparently it's 'tropical evergreen forest', which is slightly different to the rainforests of Malaysia & Indonesia due to different biodiversity... so it said in the visitor centre!).

Although only on a short saunter along the path from the gate, I managed to meet a group of long-tailed macaques in the trees above me. Probably about ten of them who watched me with interest as I watched them! On the way back from my afternoon stroll I was lucky enough to ...

Bangkok journal: Songkran and sightseeing in Bangkok

Sun, 22 Apr 2007 05:17:53 GMT

Friday 13 April

I arrived in Bangkok just as Songkran (Thai New Year) was beginning. The main passtime during this festival is good-natured street water-fights and the daubing oif water & flour paste on the faces of passers-by (or throwing/splashing /spraying water over them). All good clean fun, although trying to move in certain areas of the city was impossible due to the sher numbers of locals and tourists engaged in street water-fiughts and general frivolity.

My first day was spent attempting to visit Khao San (the main backpacker area) but I didn't bother trying to get ...

Pemayangtse journal: Mountains again!

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 02:15:48 GMT

The town of Pelling consists mostly of hotels and not much else, but that is not why people go there! I spent two days or so there and from there was driven around some of the surrounding hills and mountains and along the river valleys. The scenery is stunning - deep valleys with fast-flowing mountain rivers (and this is in the 'dry' season) and steep hillsides, terraced for rice or maize.

After rain and cloud had prevented us from seeing the true beauty of Sikkim, our final afternoon and the following morning made up for it. After heavy rainfall and thunderstorms the clouds finally ...

Kalimpong journal: The Village Discovery Tour

Wed, 18 Apr 2007 01:33:43 GMT

Having spent many weeks in No.12 Dhura, and walked between there and Kashyem at least once per week, I decided to join the Village Discover Tour for one day to explore the nearby area. The tour is a non-profit initiative supported by Mondo Challenge, which aims to generate income for the villages and provide walkers with an insight into Nepali life in the Kalimpong area as well as a very pleasant walk in the foothills of the Himalayas. I joined the tour at the end of day 1 as I had done the walk between No.12 and Kashyem. I watched the Nepali cultural show, dancing courtesy of some of the ...

Bangkok journal: Culture shock in Bangkok

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 08:25:11 GMT

Definition of culture shock: Arriving in Bangkok having spent five months in Tanzania and India. Staying in the downtown area at the moment and I feel like I've stepped into the future. After five months of fairly basic living, I decided to visit a shopping mall as it was time for a bit of self-indulgent pampering. ONE of the MANY shopping malls in the area. We don't have malls like this at home, and I worked in the UK's largest one which now seems rather small with very few shops! We certainly don't have four all next to each other! After the novelty of the bright lights, a huge array of ...

Gangtok journal: Into Sikkim

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 07:53:43 GMT

Having finished my volunteering stint in India it was time to explore a little further than Kalimpong and Darjeeling. Permits were got in Rangpo to allow us as foreigners into the state of Sikkim.

My time in Gangtok was spent visiting Tibetan handicraft centres, seeing Nepali and Lepcha dancing, seeing some lovely orchids at the flower show and looking around Enchay Monastery before heading on to Rumtek Monastery on day 2.

Having spent time in Darjeeling and Kalimpong there wasn't really much new about Gangtok - a town on the side of a hill! It was pleasant enough, but I'm afraid ...

Kalimpong journal: Living the simple life

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 07:47:55 GMT

It wasn't all swanning around Darjeeling and Kalimpong, rafting and seeing mountains! I spent the majority of my time (weekends excluded) in a tiny little village called No.12 Dhura (aka Barranumber), which is North-east of Kalimpong near the town of Pedong.

During my time with Mondo Challenge I lived with the Head Teacher of my Primary School and his lovely family. They fed me fantastic food and we spent the evenings chatting and laughing together. I even attempted to help preparing food a couple of times - I became a fairly accomplished Momo maker, although wrapping pastry parcels is ...

Darjeeling journal: Darjeeling.....

Thu, 12 Apr 2007 07:39:13 GMT

Darjeeling: 'Queen of Hill Stations'. A relaxing place to spend the weekend when compared to Kalimpong as the traffic is excluded from much of the upper part of the town.

I spent several weekends here, although Tiger Hill certainly stole Darjeeling's thunder on one of those! I didn't actually visit many places as it tended to be more of a weekend retreat (like Kalimpong in that respect). I visited the zoo (yes, rather cramped enclosures, but they have a good red panda and snow leopard conservation programme) and saw my beloved red pandas, and within the zoo, the Himalayan Mountineering ...

Ghoom journal: Stunning Tiger Hill

Thu, 12 Apr 2007 07:18:27 GMT

Spending the night in a depressingly cold Darjeeling guesthouse made it all the easier to get up and leave before 4:30am.

Wrapped up in several layers, hats, scarves, gloves and boots, we drove from Darjeeling through gloomy Ghoom to Tiger Hill, 2500m up above Darjeeling (2100m).

As we walked from the car up to the viewpoint, frost beside the road, I happened to turn around and look behind me. I can't remember what I said, or exactly what noise came from my mouth, but it was sheer raw exhileration, along the lines of 'Oh my god, look behind you!' Emerging in the dim dawn light were ...

Kalimpong journal: Springtime in Kalimpong

Thu, 12 Apr 2007 06:56:17 GMT

Actually, it was far from Springtime when I first arrived. After a day-long train journey from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri Station, near Siliguri, I was collected and driven to Kalimpong, arriving at around 11pm.

The first few days were cold and wet and I thought I would never get warm again. Yes, it was significantly warmer than the UK in February, but it makes a big difference not having central heating! I am from the spoiled and pampered generation who have grown up with this luxury and therefore found it difficult without.

Over the following two months I was lucky enough to ...

Kolkata journal: Weekend in Kolkata

Thu, 12 Apr 2007 06:34:53 GMT

After very little sleep, two hours at Mumbai Domestic Air terminal and two hours flying I arrived in Kolkata on Saturday morning.

After a hair-raising taxi drive across busy city streets, dodging taxis, buses, auto-rickshaws, cycle rickshaws and human-powered rickshaws I finally arrived at the oasis that was the Fairlawn Hotel. I was welcomed and after waiting for my room to be ready (I had arrived early) was able to put my bags down and relax. I didn't stay long at the hotel and headed straight out to explore the city.

I actually didn't do much exploring on that first day as I ...

Arusha journal: Reflections on Tanzania (random photos etc!)

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 03:49:11 GMT

Some general points about Tanzania (and some more photos, predictably many of Kili, plus some more Usangi views, plus Moshi as well this time).

I greatly enjoyed my time in Tanzania - the volunteering was good fun and rewarding, especially the adult class I taught at the pottery. The secondary school was fun and interesting in the short time I was there - classes of 70+ pupils and no resources other than a blackboard was an interesting challenge! I wasn't at the primary school during a significant period of teaching to comment on that.

Usangi is a wonderful place with lovely people ...

Mumbai (Bombay) journal: 48 hours in Mumbai

Sat, 17 Feb 2007 22:46:01 GMT

Arrived in Mumbai a bit before 5am local time, which meant sometime after 2am East African time, having flown from Nairobi. Managed to find my pre-booked taxi driver who then drove me accross town to my hotel in Colaba. The drive was very intertesting and he pointed out and commented on various areas of the city. In the darkness of the early morning I could see the streets lined with people sleeping, some under blankets just on the road, others on beds on the road. Besides the road there was an assortment of shacks, made from wood, canvas, metal, tarpaulin and plastic sheeting. Fires were ...

Kilimanjaro National Park journal: Kili lite

Mon, 05 Feb 2007 07:12:16 GMT

Having decided that I was not going to climb Kili due to money, time and knee compassion I felt the need to hike ON the mountain, if not UP it.

I set out with my guide (my travelling companion had amoebic dysentery so stayed behind in the comfort of the hotel) and took a dala dala and then a taxi from Moshi to Marangu Gate.

Having sorted out the National Park permit etc we headed up the well-trodden path of the Marangu, or 'Coca-Cola' route, so-named after its popularity and, rather depressingly, the litter that apparently sometimes accumulates there.

The path went up very ...

Stone Town journal: Spices & Stone Town

Mon, 05 Feb 2007 06:56:15 GMT

27 December

Transferred from Paje to Zanzibar Town/Stone Town mid morning and spent a pleasant afternoon soaking up the atmosphere of Stone Town. Narrow winding cobbled streets, courtyards, whitewashed houses and a relaxed pace made it a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Not that I did a huge amount there, apart from browse through craft shops and quench my thirst in cafes!

28 December

Went on a Spice Tour from Stone Town inland to a large state-owned spice and fruit farm. Spent a very interesting (and hot) morning learnign about spice growing and seeing all the spices in ...

Paje journal: Christmas on the beach

Mon, 05 Feb 2007 06:43:29 GMT

24 December Having got to Paje and found my comfy little bungalow, I had a good night's sleep and woke up to a familiar sound: Rain! I had been tipped off (on the 7 hour ferry corssing) that there was a tropical cyclone somewhere near Madagscar and that the weather system could be heading north.....

Anyway, the rain did ease off and had gone by late morning and although the sky remained overcast for the whole day, it was warm and bright and the sea was beautiful. Went for a swim once the tide came in (sea is several hundred metres away at low tide) and generally relaxed.....

There ...

Arusha journal: Mount Meru

Mon, 05 Feb 2007 06:30:31 GMT

A bit about Mout Meru:

Meru is Tanzania's second highest mountain after Kilimanjaro, 1300m lower at 4500m high. It is situated at the western edge of Arusha National Park, north-east of Arusha town. It was once much higher than Kili but a cataclismic eruption millions of years ago blew the top and eastern side of the cone off. There is a new ash cone in the crater, formed after the old cone was destroyed. To reach the summit, we had to walk along the northern edge of the old crater, and then southwards along the western ridge to the summit which is in the south-west of the original ...

Usangi journal: Hiking on Kindoroko

Sat, 06 Jan 2007 07:09:48 GMT

Up early on a Sunday morning to get down to the village to meet our guide. Haruni, out knowledgable, friendly, local guide met us at the pottery, along with his daughter, her friend and the gang of loca boys who we had invited to join us, none of whom had been up their local mountain.

We set off on a path out of the village up the valley side. The path took us through cornfields, past locals' crops and houses and past a lovely waterfall as we went higher up the valley. Stopping by the waterfall we were treated to not only gurgling, splashing water and birdsong, but also the glorious ...

Dar es Salaam journal: Getting to Zanzibar

Fri, 05 Jan 2007 22:48:58 GMT

Travelling as light as possible, I loaded the rusksack onto my back and plodded down the hill to catch the bus. I tentatively made my way up to and down from the post office, where i was rewarded with a letter (I had already given up hope of my Christmas food parcel arriving in time, so no real surprise there!). The road was extremely damp and by the time I boarded the bus shorty after 8:00am I had red mud up my legs and the soles of my sandals were and inch thick with the stuff!

An hour down the hill to Mwnaga and then two hours waiting there for my bus to Dar. I occupied myself ...

Lake Manyara journal: Lake Manyara National Park

Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:20:18 GMT

Last day of safari.... Another good nights sleep and here I encountered the biggest beetle I have ever seen! - I saw it in the night and had to do a double take it was so big!! had the obligatory photo shoot in case people don't believe me! (It really was that big!)

After breakfast we drove the short distance to Lake Manyara National Park which we had seen the previous day from the viewpoint higher up.

The National Park is mainly to the west of the lake itself, between the lake and the bottom of the Rift Valley escarpment. It consists of dense wooded areas and more open sections ...

Ngorongoro journal: Ngorongoro Crater

Sun, 10 Dec 2006 05:45:44 GMT

A cold but excellent nights sleep, and up before dawn to get packed. Had breakfast as the sky above the crater turned pink and headed off from the campsite shortly after 6:30 in order to maximise our time in the crater. The whole area was shrouded in cloud and we could see nothing form the rim until we started the descent into the caldera.

We started by going into the small area of forest in the south of the crater. Herre we saw elephants, vervet monkeys, buffalo and zebra. After that we headed across the plains of the crater (caldera) floor where we were once again met by large ...

Serengeti National Park journal: Into the Serengeti......

Sun, 10 Dec 2006 05:34:27 GMT

FOR SOME REASON THE MAP HERE IS WRONG - THE SERENGETI IS IN TANZANIA, NORTHWEST OF ARUSHA!!

Got up on Wednesday morning for the drive to the Serengeti. Drove through the Ngorongoro Conservation area, our destination for Friday and saw lots of zebra grazing, interspersed with Maasai herdsmen with their goats, cattle and donkeys.

Passing through the Ngorongoro Conservation area we skirted the Ngorongor crater and got our first glimpse of the immense collapsed caldera where we would be returning in two days time. the surrounding highlands were covered with thick temperate ...

Lake Manyara journal: Tarangire National Park

Sun, 10 Dec 2006 00:34:12 GMT

First day of safari. Picked up at 8 to load up the land rover. Five of us, plus driver/guide and cook. Quite a squash, but we were all very excited about our five day adventure.

The drive to Tarangire National Park took just under two hours and, after five days of urban life, it was wonderful to escape the city again!

The landscape changed quickly out of Arusha and the concrete buildings gave way to mud and straw huts and then Maasai bomas dotted around the savanna hills through which the road passed. All along the way were herdsmen in their bright red shukas keeping their ...

Arusha journal: Big bad city......

Mon, 04 Dec 2006 06:48:17 GMT

After the most prolonged rainfall yet in Usangi (not the heaviest, but I don't think it stopped all night) I was ready at 6:30 to trek down the hill to catch the bus to Arusha. Sadly the rain decided not to stop so I hung around until it stopped before heading down to the village where I caught the original bus which had been delayed as no one goes out in the rain (even me now!).

Got onto the bus and it very tentatively crawled down the mountains to the main road. I don't think the word tentative is often applied to Tanzanian bus drivers.....!

The journey was fine and I got to ...

Usangi journal: Rain, visitors and sunrises....

Mon, 04 Dec 2006 05:58:29 GMT

I have now spent my longest period of time yet in Usangi - a whole ten days without escaping in search of something I can't get there!

School has been very quiet with the teachers just marking exams while the children occupying themselves (unimaginable in the UK!!) but I have tried to go into different classes to teach them English songs as they love singing. So far, standards 5 and 6 are very good at 'Animal Fair' and standard 4 are good at 'London's burning', 'I'm a little Tea Pot' and 'Head, shoulders, knees and toes'. I have also started using standard 5 and 6 girls (boys not keen, ...

Moshi journal: Another weekend in Moshi

Sun, 03 Dec 2006 01:06:16 GMT

Moshi again. The excuse this time: I needed to find an English-Swahili dictionary at the bookshop (sadly failed on that front as the bookshope closed at 12:30 by which time I had been distracted by food and the Italian men I met last week, just back from their Kili trek).

It was a beautiful morning walking down to catch the bus. The sun was bright and their were light mists around the mountains surrounding Usangi. The birds were singing and the stream gurgled as it wound its way through the lush banana plantations. There had been some short showers in the night, but not as much as ...

Arusha journal: Basic, but friendly staff and the dining room is very sociable. I met some very interesting people here as it doen't attract everyday tourists or bakpackers.

Sat, 18 Nov 2006 09:11:35 GMT

Usangi journal: Putting things into perspective

Sat, 18 Nov 2006 05:37:02 GMT

The scorpion incident paled into insignificance a few hours later..... Complete melodrama and I felt thoroughly ashamed of myself for thinking I had it tough up here in the mountains.

One of the boys in standard 5 died on Thursday. I had been told a pupil was very ill as we'd had a small collection on Tuesday. He was about 11 years old I think and I believe was in the class with whom I was laughing and singing 'Animal Fair' last Friday.

The first couple of hours were spent in the staffroom as my colleagues discussed (in Kiswahili) what the arrangements and plans for the day would ...

Usangi journal: House'guests' etc...

Sat, 18 Nov 2006 05:17:32 GMT

The first part of the week involved me feeling a bit down due to a cold, and school being invigilation only. The adult class at the pottery is really taking off now, though and is growing in numbers every day. I split the group on Monday so now have a beginners' and intermediate group running consecutively. Might have to split them further still, particularly if numbers continue to rise as word spreads around the village! I am enjoying it and they appear to be too (and I think they might even be learning something!!). Not only do I have potters, mainly female of various ages, I now have ...

Moshi journal: The big mountain emerges!!

Sat, 11 Nov 2006 22:41:53 GMT

The early bird...!

Made sure I was up bright and early and got my reward! I went to the hotel balcony and got my glimpse of Kilimajaro!! Beautiful pinkish hue in the first light of the day!!

Also caught a peek a couple of hours later as I walked up the road.

All hidden now though, so it was worth getting up for!

Jealously watched as four Italians who I befriended set off on their six day trek to the top.......

Seeing it just makes me want to climb it.......! hmmmmm!!!!

Moshi journal: Chocolate and computers!

Sat, 11 Nov 2006 04:13:27 GMT

Have escaped the mountains in search of chocolate as I have failed to find any in Usangi! Also need to look at resources on the internet to help my adult beginners at the pottery (but the chocolate mission was planned before I realised I needed to find an internet connection - be under no illusions about my priorities!!)

Having waited nearly an hour for a bus that didn't come I ended up on a daladala (minibus taxi) to get to Mwanga, from where I got a proper bus to Moshi. For those of you who have not experienced such modes of transport, a daladala is a small minibus which should seat ...

Usangi journal: Pare Mountains

Sat, 11 Nov 2006 03:53:44 GMT

The Pare Mountains are rather lovely, if a little remote (but I knew that when I chose to come here!) Everything is green and lush and there are loads of birds and butterflies to be seen.

I am staying in Kirongaya, which is thirty minutes walk up the mountain from the main village of Usangi. Very good exercise for me and I'm glad I bought walking boots (and waterproofs as the (short) rainy season does exactly what it threatens!) Where I am living is surrounded by banana plantations so I get several very fresh bananas every day, which is lovely. My host family, who live next door to the ...

Pangani journal: Indian Ocean, bicycles and bruises!

Sun, 05 Nov 2006 21:30:22 GMT

Friday

The reason we were in Pangani was for my country manager to be guest of honour at the local primary school's first ever graduation. We had a relaxing morning as we didn't need to be there until midday. We walked to the river and, after a short sprint, jumped onto the ferry to take us to the other side. From there it was about twenty minutes up the hill to the school. Lots of colourful flowers, lush green trees and birds along the way. The rustling in the trees caught my attention and instead of the squirrels I am used to seeing, it was colobus monkeys chasing each other in ...

Pangani journal: The African bus experience!

Sun, 05 Nov 2006 21:14:22 GMT

Visiting another volunteer placement in Pangani for the weekend. Got to the bus station at 7:30 to get a seat on the 8:00 bus. Ran the gauntlet with the ticket salemen trying to make us pay well over the normal prices because we were Mzungus (white folk!). Sitting on the bus we were continuously being offered various goods m(from plastic tut to food snacks and drinks) by people thrusting their trays through the coach windows. The bus filled up and, rather impressively, departed on time! It was full to capacity (probably above capacity by western standards) with all seats taken and the aisles ...

Arusha journal: Arusha National Park

Wed, 01 Nov 2006 05:58:24 GMT

Wow!!!

Went on a one day safari today to the nearby National Park not far from town. It's small and doesn't have big cats, elephants etc but it was, nonetheless, absolutely fantastic!!

The morning was grey and drizzly (so no chance of homesickness!) and Mount Meru, which occupies the western side of the Park was shrouded in cloud. At 6:00 it had been bathed in sunshine as I could see it clearly from the guesthouse. However, the rain soon stopped and the cloud eventually cleared. By lunchtime it was really rather hot!!

I saw: Water buffalo (one really close, staring at us ...

Nairobi journal: Twelve hours in Nairobi

Wed, 01 Nov 2006 05:57:24 GMT

Arrived on the flight from Amsterdam at around 8:00pm local time (GMT+3) and was collectede without problems and taken to my hotel. Had a quick meal and chatted to a Dutch lady who has been in Africa for three months. Got some useful contacts and recommendations - a good start!

Went to bed to the sound of premiership football commentary from a nearby bar - welcometo Africa!

Slept brilliantly after a brief fight with a mosquito net (I think I won but it wasn't really a clean fight) and got up at 6:00 as I had a bus to catch!

Met a (very small) cockroach in the bathroom but ...

The World journal: Round the world!

Wed, 01 Nov 2006 05:57:24 GMT

Round the world trip as follows:

Fly to Nairobi and then onto Tanzania for three months of volunteering. Then onto India for two months volunteering. To New Zealand via Kuala Lumpur, then Fiji, LA, Miami, Jamaica, Miami and overland to Toronto (and then home, rather annoyingly, via Amsterdam!).

Arusha journal: Introduction to Arusha

Wed, 01 Nov 2006 05:32:39 GMT

Spent the morning being shown the main sights of Arusha by my Assistant Country Manager. It's a really interesting place - vibrant, bustling, friendly, welcoming and I feel totally relaxed here (even before I sampled the chocolate fudge cake in the internet cafe!).

The walk took two hours but gave me a good feel for the places so I now have my bearings enought to be able to change money, send letters, buy fruit (and cake) as well as knowing where various places are.

Off on a day safari tomorrow to Arusha National Park and then to Pangani on the coast. I won't be going to the Pare ...

Arusha journal: Into Tanzania: Arrival in Arusha

Tue, 31 Oct 2006 05:54:52 GMT

The bus journey from Nairobi took around five hours in total, including the time at the border organising visas etc.

Not the most comfortable bus I've sat on and with slightly less leg room than Ryanair's smallest planes!

However, it was a fantastic experience as the countryside was stunning - proper savanna with interesting villages on the way (both in Kenya and Tanzania). All along the way there were Maasai herdsmen with their goats/cattle/donkeys (or all of the above!).

Coming into Tanzania Mount Meru appeared ahead of us, marking out for me that Arusha was not far off. ...

Peak District journal: An afternoon in the Peak

Sat, 07 Oct 2006 03:37:09 GMT

Arrived in Sheffield mid morning and had lunch in the Peak District, followed by a lovely walk through woods and accross fields. A beautiful dry day with rolling hills and big skies. Drove up to Stanage Edge later in the afternoon where the sun illuminated the rocks and bracken, already indicating that autumn is upon us. Spent over an hour rock-hopping (not so great on the knees) and gazing in awe at the beaty of the place that is such a short drive from one of the biggest cities in England. A most wonderful afternoon!

United Kingdom journal: Last month in the UK!

Sat, 07 Oct 2006 03:34:08 GMT

Just enjoying the beautiful places and sating goodbye to wonderful people I shall be leaving behind for the months......

The World journal: Round the World escapade - counting down!

Tue, 22 Aug 2006 10:03:24 GMT

The plan so far.....

Fly out of UK on 29 October...

The rules:

If the Round-the-World ticket makes me stop there I have to stay at least a night!

London-Nairobi-Mumbai -Kolkata-Kuala Lumpur-Aukland-Fiji-LA -Houston-Miami-Kingston -Miami-overland-Toronto -London

3 months in Tanzania volunteering in Primary school in the Pare Mountains (including a month off in early Dec/early Jan when I plan to go on big adventures up Kilimanjaro, safari, Zanzibar and perhaps into Malawi TBC...)

2 months in India: Fly into Mumbai, then onto Kolkata and up to KalimponG ...

Hamburg journal: Hamburg

Tue, 22 Aug 2006 09:31:57 GMT

Hamburg became the social and partying leg of the trip. Hideously late nights, but good fun and good company. As I've been there twice before I didn't go out sightseeing (might have done if I had had more sleep, but these things can't be helped).

Wedding on Friday was lovely, followed by a decadent afternoon sleep and then the reception (got to bed at 4.00am). Was proud of the amount of German I managed to understand/speak - typically just as I'm getting back into it it's timr to go home. Hey ho....

Berlin journal: Berlin (finally)

Mon, 21 Aug 2006 14:41:15 GMT

Finally made it to Berlin overland. Claire decided to drive us so I was co-pilot with the map. 13 hours door to door (Tonbridge to Berlin), and it might have been less if I hadn't decided to take us the long way round Eindhoven!

Monday - weather was looking good so Potsdam it was. Sanssouci Park to be precise. Much Baroque, rococco and general splendour (not always to our taste, but impressive nonetheless). Guidebooks failed to mention that not all is opne on a Monday, but the Neues Palais was open and I got the general gist of the German guided tour. Meissen porcelain - yuck yuck ...

Berlin journal: Wonderful hostel, four visits now and never disappointed

Mon, 21 Aug 2006 14:17:25 GMT

Still spotlessly clean, friendly and efficient. they have now explanded downstairs and have a bar/restaurant serving good German and international food. All-you-can-eat breakfast buffet for 5 Euros is fantastic value as it will keep you going until afternoon Kaffee/Kuchen.

Heathrow Airport journal: Airports, flights, chaos.....

Mon, 21 Aug 2006 13:50:31 GMT

Day one - supposedly departing Heathrow early evening for Berlin. Three hours lugging large suitcase across Maidstone and then through London only for the flight to be cancelled within twenty minutes of my arrival. Get rescued by kind sister and back to plan an alternative journey.....