Travel Baxters Blog on RealTravel

Taipei journal: Halloween

Sun, 28 Oct 2007 19:27:56 GMT

Happy (early) Halloween. In school I’ve been milking this holiday for the last month, having the kids color Halloween pictures, fill in Halloween worksheets, work on Halloween word searches, and most recently creating cut out mummies. Oooooo. Yet, this is nothing compared to the Halloween activities going on at the Tree House school across the street from my apartment. The school is decked out with an inflatable monster in front, a giant hanging spider above the door, and housed over a hundred pumpkins shipped over from the U.S. and destined to become Jack-o-lanterns.

Last night, I ...

Taipei journal: Mt. Chihsingshan

Sun, 21 Oct 2007 19:37:37 GMT

Not too much going on here in Taipei land. This weekend we went on a couple of motorcycle rides, including one to the nearby mountain of Yangmingshan. The temperature outside has gotten cooler, so I made sure to wear my sweatshirt for the hour ride to the mountain. Once there we navigated through the confusing park roads until finding the trail head for Mt. Chihsingshan, 1120m tall and the highest peak of Yangmingshan. On our way up the mountain we passed many Chinese hikers with stereos on their backpacks, which played very Asian sounding Chinese ballads. The area also reeked of sulfur ...

Taipei journal: Typhoon - Again!

Sat, 06 Oct 2007 05:27:50 GMT

This weekend I experienced my third typhoon since moving to Taiwan. Typhoon Krosa was by far the fiercest. Rain started falling midday on Friday and by evening huge gusts of wind rattled the windows and balcony doors. Unfortunately, the typhoon hit on a Saturday, so no days off. Saturday morning the apartment was under siege from water leaking in from under the door, the sills of the windows, and several other areas and then pooling in the middle of the floor. The wind was howling outside and constant streams of rain came down inundating the city. And then we looked out the window and noticed ...

Taipei journal: Another Day

Wed, 03 Oct 2007 18:48:59 GMT

“So what country you from?” asked the taxicab driver in heavily accented English. I responded the US. “Very good, very good,” went the cab driver, “I visit America thirty years ago when I work on cargo ship.”

It always makes me a bit sad when I find an interesting person, but because of language it’s difficult to have a conversation. I did discover the nice silver haired taxicab driver had worked on a cargo ship for many years and visited the US, South America, and the coast of Africa. When the boat stopped in New Orleans, he and a friend had gone on a road trip of the US, passing ...

Taipei journal: How to Spend a Sunday

Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:59:40 GMT

Saturday was a trial. Teaching M-F can be challenging enough, but nobody wants to be in school on a Saturday. I did my best, then had the kids work on a 2 hour art project full of coloring, cutting, and gluing to make multi-layered sunflowers. Since Saturday was a loss, I was looking forward to enjoying Sunday.

Waking up early, we visited the local bacon and egga for breakfast and read the Taipei Times, a local English language newspaper. The news was full of depressing articles about the situation in Myanmar, Mideast violence, and the increase of baby snatching going on in China. FYI - ...

Taipei journal: Moon Day Festival Weekend

Tue, 25 Sep 2007 19:26:27 GMT

And then the rains came, washing away all hopes of a weekend camping and hiking in the hills around Taipei. It came in torrents and in short bursts, drizzles, and sprinkles, followed by another round of downpours. Glumly I watched from inside the apartment as I tried to stay busy playing computer games and avoiding all productive work – it is a 4 day weekend after all.

On Monday the skies finally began to clear. In an attempt to salvage at least part of this weekend, we hopped on the bike and headed for the beach. As we drove out of the city we saw an impressive rainbow stretching above ...

Taipei journal: Parent-Teacher Night

Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:37:43 GMT

Wow, Friday was a long day. When I arrived at my first grade class I was greeted by a bunch of hyper kids about to begin a four day weekend, so class was quite tough. After four hours of pulling my hair and trying to put on a sweet face, I walked in the rain over to the next building where I taught a 2 hour class on grammar and spelling to sixth graders, who also didn’t want to be in class. Afterwards I had a five minute breather to compose myself before parent teacher night.

Somehow I had gotten into my head that parent-teacher night is meeting with parents on an individual basis to ...

Taipei journal: Typhoon Day

Thu, 20 Sep 2007 09:47:52 GMT

What’s better than a snow day? A Typhoon day. On Tuesday all classes were cancelled and the local shops boarded their windows to protect from Typhoon Wipha. It has been just over a month since I first arrived in Taiwan, which is coincidentally when the last typhoon took place. This typhoon day, instead of recovering from jetlag, I spent the day recovering from the trials and strain of being a first grade teacher. It was a perfect day to catch up on emails, watch movies, and listen to the rain.

This week has also marked my 4th week teaching in primary school, which meant monthly reports ...

Taipei journal: Saturday Night Ramblings

Mon, 17 Sep 2007 03:00:00 GMT

Saturday evening rolled around and we were plan-less. Grabbing our helmets we decided to start the night by riding over to the 24 hour bookstore. Packed with Taiwanese, the bookstore serves the dual purpose of buying books and is a known “pick-up spot” for single people. Like a borders in the US, the bookstore was large and well stocked. Besides having an American and an English literature section, English language books were mixed in with Chinese throughout all the various genres. After taking a look at the literature section, I made my way to the front of the store which housed the travel ...

Taipei journal: Walk to Work

Thu, 13 Sep 2007 03:23:06 GMT

It takes 35 minutes to walk to work, but I usually leave 50 minutes before my first class to give myself some prep time. Grabbing my Ipod I unplug it from the computer. While tinkering with the device in one hand I pick up my green messenger bag, which is lying at a heap next to the door. I go down the six flights of stairs until I’m at the glass door that separates me from the street.

The sun is usually beating down as I walk down the little side street where my apartment is located. Only once have I had to walk to work in the rain, instead the showers usually appear from 4p-8p ...

Taipei journal: Food

Mon, 10 Sep 2007 02:53:26 GMT

One of the benefits of living in a large city like Taipei is the variety of food available. Eating out is usually much cheaper and easier than cooking, so I've been discovering the wide range of restaurants available in the city. Strange to think that just one year ago I was living in Thailand and was limited to choosing fried noodles or fried rice each night. Living in an urban Taipei I’m dazzled sometimes by the choice of Western food, Asian, local versus chain restaurants , and the endless selections on display at the city’s many local markets.

Some chain restaurants are easily ...

Taipei journal: Earthquake

Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:13:07 GMT

The room started to shake as I lay in bed, half asleep. In my groggy state I thought it was some type of gag, like when someone starts shaking you and jokingly says “earthquake!” But, the mat where I lay and the room continued trembling. Thirty seconds went by before the rapid swaying of the building finally ceased. I just experienced my first Taiwanese earthquake and it was a pretty good size. After it happened we checked the internet and read that the quake registered 6.6 on the Richter scale. But then I drifted back to sleep …

The next morning I read a news article saying that since ...

Taipei journal: Movie Night

Mon, 03 Sep 2007 19:12:25 GMT

Well, it was rather rainy this weekend, so I didn’t do a whole lot. Last night, however, I did watch a terribly weird movie – “Scream of the Ants” by Mohsen Makhmalbaf. From a Chinese Blockbuster we rented a French Film about Iranians travelling to India … and along the way something was lost in translation. Some parts were in English, but the film also had huge monologues in Hindi, Persian, and French all translated into Chinese subtitles. From the best I can guess, the film is about a wealthy Iranian couple who came to India on their honeymoon looking for a spiritual awakening. For some ...

Taipei journal: Night Ride

Wed, 29 Aug 2007 19:39:12 GMT

Things are getting better … the class is beginning to feel less like the beginning of kindergarten cop. With some tips from friends I’m working on making the class more structured. Yesterday we went over class rules and reprimands for poor behavior. Oh yes, Teacher Sarah is getting a voice.

That night I went on my first night ride since returning to Taiwan. The full moon was out as we stocked up on gas and headed for Yo-ming-shun (sp?), a nearby mountain with incredible views overlooking Taipei. From the busy city streets we transitioned to suburban roads that began leading upwards to ...

Taipei journal: Holy S*** – What have I gotten myself into?!?

Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:14 GMT

I watch the sushi plates bump into each other before they go around the corner. Plate after plate of colorful seafood – tuna, salmon, eel, salmon, albacore, oysters, crab, fish eggs, and etc pass by on the conveyer belt of the small sushi restaurant. I lazily sip my green tea and try to unwind from my first day as a first grade teacher. I think the title of this entry explains it all …

I have a lot to learn – I realize that. I think today went adequate, but I need to work at maintaining classroom control. My class consists of twelve Chinese kids – ten who know English, one who knows a ...

Taipei journal: It's the Weekend ...

Sun, 26 Aug 2007 08:47:12 GMT

At night it rains, during most afternoons it rains, and sometimes in the mornings it rains. I guess that’s what you get for moving to Taiwan during monsoon season. However, the air felt very fresh and clean as we stepped over last night’s puddles and walked to the nearest 7/11 to grab the Sunday paper. The China post is one of Taipei’s two English daily papers. In size, maybe ½ a cm, it doesn’t even compare to the NY times, but it’s still an interesting read for a weekend morning. Our next destination was one of the cities numerous Bacon and Eggas. These are little family owned restaurants ...

Taipei journal: Interview Time

Fri, 24 Aug 2007 01:34:03 GMT

At noon on Wednesday I left for my second interview of the day. Five minutes previously the light rain had turned into a downpour. I ditched my original plan of walking and instead shelled out the 100 NT (abt $3) for a taxi ride to the school. May, a slight built Chinese women in her 40s, was in charge of hiring teachers for the Happy Marion School. She gave me a form to fill out where I listed my name, address, specialties, and hobbies. After asking if I liked Taiwan and if I liked kids she took me to a classroom to give a teaching demo to 10 first graders. May handed me a Xerox copy of the ...

Taipei journal: The Start

Tue, 21 Aug 2007 18:12:37 GMT

Okay, I’m going to make another attempt to keep a travel journal, let’s see how it goes …

I watched 2 movies, 6 TV shows, and slept, but the 14 hour journey from LA to Taipei still took forever. This was the last leg of my 25 hour journey from Columbus, OH to Taiwan. The huge 747 had a very rocky landing, but we arrived safely at the airport as typhoon Sepat stormed across the island.

My arrival was a bit confused, since the plane arrived at 6am – an hour early. By the time I arrived by bus into Taipei city I was still running ahead of schedule, so my friend wasn’t there at the bus ...

Asia journal: Living in Taipei

Tue, 21 Aug 2007 18:05:45 GMT

After a year of traveling I've decided to settle down for a bit in Taiwan.

Pokhara journal: Don't worry, I'm still alive

Thu, 17 May 2007 01:54:10 GMT

Hi All,

Well, this is the end of the travel journal, but not of the traveling ...

If you want to know how I am or where I am just email.

Later,

Rishikesh journal: Where is Sarah now?

Thu, 26 Apr 2007 07:59:37 GMT

Okay, it's been awhile since I've written - part apathy, faulty computers, and problems with this website.

What have I been up too? I was in the Sikh holy city of Armistar, home of the Golden temple. I spent many enjoyable days going around the crowded city and visiting some outlying temples in the nearby country side. Now I'm in the quiet "hippy" mountain town of Rishikesh full of Ashrams, yoga studios, and even a leper colony.

That's all for now ...

(sorry, no pics - they won't upload)

Shimla journal: I'm Still in the Mountains

Tue, 10 Apr 2007 23:11:22 GMT

Honeymooning Indians love the former English hill fort of Shimla, high in the mountains of Northern India. As a single westener who just spent the last 5 hours hurling out the window of a bus I wasn't so keen on the town. To get from the bus station to town required a very long uphill hike on a road filled with menacing monkeys. There are so many monkeys in this town, wandering the streets and terrorizing the hotels or anyone who chooses to hang clothes outside. I'll upload some pictures once I find a computer that will let me ...

McLeod Ganj (Upper Dharamsala) journal: Snow Capped Peaks of McLeod Ganj

Tue, 10 Apr 2007 23:00:36 GMT

Monks in thick maroon robes, smiling Tibetan beggars with amputated limbs and frost bite scars, Western men in turbans along side dread haired women searching for enlightenment liven up the streets of this small town packed with wall to wall guest houses and shops selling incense, prayer wheels, Dalai Lama photos, and free Tibet shirts. The air is chill and the high altitudes leaves one continually breathless.

Aimlessly walking down the crumbling pot holed roads, avoiding the ever present smattering of cow dung, I enter a small tea shop. The topic of conversation inside - the body of a ...

Anjuna journal: Magical Goa

Fri, 06 Apr 2007 00:02:20 GMT

Leaving Chennai I took a very long bus ride across India to the province of Goa (a former Portuguese settlement). Goa is very peaceful and mellow, here are some pictures of Anjuna beach ...

Mamallapuram journal: In a Little Beach Town

Tue, 03 Apr 2007 21:39:17 GMT

The strike didn't stop us. The Germans and I decided to get out of Chennai and share a taxi for the hour drive South to the little town of Mamallapuram. As we drove I noticed the nothingness next to the coast. This area was also effected by the Tsunami.

The town of Mamallapuram, though unpronouncible, is a nice little beach town - muh quieter than the craziness of Chennai. After finding a hotel we wandered around looking at some temples and caves. We also watched some Indian men busily creating stone carvings as some goats munched grass next to us.

As I was exiting a shop ...

Chennai journal: A Return to India

Sun, 01 Apr 2007 09:33:21 GMT

The plane touched down at 11a in Chennai (Madras). Wow, back in India - I hope I'm ready for this.

I met a young German couple in the airport who have just started a 6 month traveling trip. We share a taxi into town. There were less men pissing by the side of the road this time, but the atmosphere of the streets was the same. In the mad confusion of what's supposed to be lanes motorbikes whiz by, as do archaic looking busses jammed with people, and in this confusion Indians are stretched out on the sidewalk taking naps in the hot noonday sun.

After settling into the hotel I go ...

India journal: India - Here I Come (Again)

Sun, 01 Apr 2007 09:18:31 GMT

A 5 week return to India.

Mount Kinabalu journal: Mount Kinabalu (Part Deux)

Thu, 22 Mar 2007 03:09:26 GMT

So the story continues (with further reflection I'm trying to look at this whole think in a more positive light, but we'll see how I do ;)

For some reason the park advises people to start climbing this steep mountain at 230am, so you can see the sunrise with a billion others on top of this mountain. Well, we logically thought - hey, why not leave at 4a - it's still an insane time to get up to climb a stupid mountain, but it will be less crowded. The only flaw was breakfast. It was supposed to go from 230-330a, but when we go downstairs at 3a all the breakfast is gone - well almost, ...

Kota Kinabalu journal: Time to Relax at a Beach

Thu, 22 Mar 2007 03:06:01 GMT

I never knew it could be so painful climbing up stairs. Any type of movement of my knees - sitting up/ sitting down/ walking is painful. I guess this too shall pass, but man it is inconvenient - I never realized how many steps I walk up and down in a typical day.

I'm still hanging out with Marie and Damion, and we are back in a city - yah! We are somewhat funny looking, hobbling around, but when we explain about the mountain thing people sympathize and mention how really tough the mountain is to climb. I finally feel somewhat dry, and it felt so good to take a nice hot shower at the ...

Mount Kinabalu journal: Mount Kinabalu

Thu, 22 Mar 2007 01:30:24 GMT

Why did I want to climb a mountain?? What possessed me this would be a good idea? Why did I choose Mt. Kinabalu, half the size of Everest and the largest in South East Asia?? Why? Why? WHY!!!! Anyway, here's the story ...

Flipping through the large yellow lonely planet SEA guide from my soft couch in LA (over 8 months ago) I first learned of Mt. K. "Oh, I'm so doing that!" I thought to myself, imagining how amazing it would be standing on top of such a high mountain. Stupid girl.

So I take a 4 hr bus from the Orang-utan place that drops me off at the park headquarters. I pay ...

Sepilok journal: Northern Malaysian Borneo

Wed, 21 Mar 2007 04:22:13 GMT

On the 14th I flew into Kuching in Southern Malaysian Borneo. Not a lot to say about this place. They have some weird cat sculptures around town and a nice board walk where you can sit at a coffee shop and read. I visited a museum that talked about Kuching and showed how indigenous people in the area live. I left early the next day for a flight to Northern Borneo - it has a long name but most people call the main town KK. From there I traveled to Sandakin, where I stayed for a night.

In the morning I heard a beautiful sound like a man singing outside my window. The voice was deep, ...

Singapore City journal: The City of Fines

Tue, 13 Mar 2007 18:58:20 GMT

I arrived in Singapore mid-afternoon on Saturday. The bus ride from Melaka was very smooth, the bus A/C, and equipped with big plush seats. It's amazing how much buses differ depending on where you are (or where you're going). I got in line with all the others, Singaporeans and Malaysians, to go through immigration. As I walk through the metal detector my bags are scanned on the xray machine. As my bags come out of the machine the lady scanning looks worried and asks me to scan my purse again. As I put the bag on the machine for a 2nd time I remember I have a flip knife w/ a 4 inch blade ...

Melaka journal: Hanging Around Melaka

Sun, 11 Mar 2007 05:10:49 GMT

With so many women walking around with covered heads, everyone modestly dressed, and alcohol fairly scare and expensive I initially summed up Malaysians as pretty conservative. Then, escaping the heat outside I popped into an air-conditioned mall, one of many in Melaka. As I'm perusing through a bookstore, similar to Waldens, I discover "Adult Origami" in the Arts + Crafts section near the front of the store. In my naivety I was thinking to see home decorations adults can make from paper? No ... how to make condoms, sperm, boobs + penis, etc out of paper! Oh Malaysia, you are so full of ...

Taman Negara National Park journal: Camping in the Jungle

Thu, 08 Mar 2007 20:57:25 GMT

At over 130 million years old the Taman Negara, Malay for "National Park," is one of the oldest rainforests in the world. The park covers about 4000 square km in the middle of peninsular Malaysia and is filled with strange looking plants, weird bugs, plus tigers and elephants. It is a protected forest, so the only long term human inhabitants are indigenous Orang Asli tribespeople who lives on the fringes of the jungle and use the park.

Arriving in Kuala Tahan, the base camp of the Taman Negara, I was very excited at the prospect of trekking in such an ancient rainforest. At the guest ...

Cameron Highlands journal: Trekking in the Jungle

Fri, 02 Mar 2007 17:38:31 GMT

Swatting away gnats, I try not to slip on the wet leaves scattered across the jungle floor. Exotic plants and trees are all around ... I think. As I remember exotic plants are what jungles are supposed to contain, but to my untrained eye it all just looks like a mass of similar looking green trees and leaves, filled with chattering insects (and probably some larger animals too). I'm on trail 9a, the trail the famed Jim Thompson - king of the Thai silk trade - took last before he mysteriously disappeared. They think a tiger might have snatched him, but surely there aren't still tigers ...

Kuala Lumpur journal: The City of Kuala Lampur

Wed, 28 Feb 2007 20:51:38 GMT

Well, I'm out of the Buddhist countries and into the Muslim country of Malaysia. It's a bit strange at first coming from the scantily clad beaches of Thailand and seeing the more conservatively dressed ladies of Malaysia, many in their head scarves. But it's about time for a new place. Thailand was great, but it was time to leave - I think the Thai immigration authorities agree since I got just a bit of a lecture from some smiling guards for overstaying my visa by 3 days. I somehow ended up in this little room with 6 immigration officials discussing my visa, since the law had changed 2 ...

Malaysia journal: Spending Time in Malaysia

Wed, 28 Feb 2007 20:09:22 GMT

Tales of Malaysia

Phuket journal: Visiting Patong Beach

Wed, 28 Feb 2007 20:08:04 GMT

Stepping out of the nice air-conditioned airport in Phuket we were blasted by heat. I had forgotten how hot Southern Thailand can be at midday. Boarding a bus we made our way into town - we were here to enjoy Phuket for a couple of days before flying out to Malaysia.

Our intention was to stay at the quiet beach of Kata, but after a slight mishap of boarding the wrong bus we ended up in the busy beach city of Patong, known for its nightlife and abundance of go-go bars. It might have been the wrong bus, but we did get to chat with this gorgeous French guy, during the ride who was ...

Chaiya journal: Meditation Retreat

Wed, 28 Feb 2007 01:06:43 GMT

Have I attained enlightenment? No. But I did spend the past week walking around barefoot and open minded at a meditation retreat at the International Dharma Hermitage near Suan Makkh wat in the South of Thailand.

I didn't realize until I showed up, but this is a SILENT retreat, so no talking at all - ugh! The first couple of days were hard to get used to, especially the ongoing thought you could be happily talking and living it up on the islands of Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan about 60 km away, but I guess sacrifices must be made in the search for inner peace.

Once we arrived and ...

Ayutthaya journal: What a Day ...

Fri, 16 Feb 2007 00:05:24 GMT

At 530a a sharp turn of the bus woke me up. We had reached Bangkok. From the Southern bus station where we were dropped off, David - the US guy I met in Ranong, and I tried to figure out how best to get to the main train station without paying an insane price. This resulted in carrying our heavy bags for a half hour as we circled the place trying to find a tuk-tuk, which for some reason were being quite elusive (the drivers probably still asleep). We finally found a guy who offered a normal price. Still very groggy from the all night bus ride I entered the train station and discovered the ...

Kawthaung journal: Burma - Mynnamar

Thu, 15 Feb 2007 01:52:55 GMT

Midmorning I made the crossing over to Burma by ferry. Though just across the river from Thailand the city of Kawthaung is pretty different. The filth and trash in the street reminds me of walking around North India a bit, but the people are as friendly as everywhere else in SEA. Along the waterfront stalls are set up selling the usual market fare - t-shirts, plastic trinkets, and cheap jewelry. I decided to find a coffee shop to sit and think of what to do next. Walking into a little restaurant I'm met with much attention by 4 guys also hanging out at the shop. They practice their ...

Ranong journal: Killing Time in Ranong

Tue, 13 Feb 2007 04:18:43 GMT

It's Tuesday afternoon and I'm sitting at a little cafe at the Thai border town of Ranong. As I sip my ice coffee, I hear the roar of motorbikes zooming down the street. Mixing with that is the Bohemian sound of bongos being played at an adjacent table by a young Thai man with a pierced lip and long multicolored patched pants. Next to him, at the same table, an aged hipster with a long grey ponytail is engrossed in a thick novel. Young uniformed school girls in matching white blouses and blue skirts walk by while a young mother chases after her 2 yr old son, who is trying to make a getaway ...

Ko Chang journal: Interesting Tales from the Beach

Tue, 13 Feb 2007 03:53:05 GMT

I'm actually only now leaving lonely beach. My plan was to just stay for Australia day, but I happened to run into Simon, the Polish backpacker I met on the 4000 islands (Don Det) in Lao. I also met some fun people he was currently traveling with, a crazy and very funny brother-sister pair from Australia and a Kiwi guy. I went with them in the evening to check out Australia day. My impression - Aussies love to drink. (I know, stating the obvious ;) As we walked up to the beach party fire dancers twirled firey batons and tons of Aussies who haed been drinking since 11a stumbled around and ...

Ko Chang journal: Ko Chang - A Visit to Lonely Beach

Fri, 26 Jan 2007 02:03:41 GMT

Soft white sand beaches, palm trees, temperate blue-blue water, wooden bungalows, lapping water, hammocks, drinks/dancing/and music available every night - this is my first tast of Southern Thailand.

After waking up it's easy to decide what to wear for the day - swimsuit and sarong. The past couple of days I've been bumming around the beach and hanging out with a fun group in the evenings Melinda- who I met from Bangkok, Anouk - a shitzu massage student from Amsterdam but who is studying in Sydney, and Chris a Didgereedoo teacher. That's about all that's been happening around here. ...

Bangkok journal: Back in Bangkok

Fri, 26 Jan 2007 01:55:21 GMT

Well, it's been just around 6 months since I was last here. Bangkok reminds me a lot of LA with its huge highways, tall buildings, and crowds of people - definitely one of the most Western cities of South East Asia. And like LA, it's a city that most people either love or hate.

I enjoy the city, especially visiting for just a few days at a time. It is so convenient with all the shops, 7/11s on every corner, and other travelers everywhere - and anything you might need is little more than a 10 minute search away. Bangkok is such a huge travel hub that most people end up passing through ...

Thailand journal: Return to Thailand

Fri, 26 Jan 2007 01:37:13 GMT

I'm back in Thailand ...

Siem Reap journal: Angkor

Mon, 22 Jan 2007 02:01:55 GMT

A brown layer of dust cakes my feet after a day of walking around the Angkor temples. Angkor, the old capital of the Khmer empire, is a world heritage site and a must see on a visit to Cambodia. So, I saw it ...

Since I always wake up insanely early, alas it can't be helped, I left for the temples a little after 6a in hopes of seeing the area at sunrise. It was very easy to flag down a mototaxi and negotiate a day of riding around the temples. All the drivers speak very good English, and the guy I ended up going with had been taking people around for the last 10 years.

Temples ...

Sihanoukville journal: Beach Time

Thu, 18 Jan 2007 21:58:28 GMT

It's so nic3e to be back at a beach. I'm in Sihanoukville staying at a guest house right on the beach. Well, it's kind of a guest house, more like a bar with the attic portioned off into small rooms with a mat on the floor and a fan - only $2 though. Waking up in the morning you can hear the loud lapping of the ocean. Unlike the cold pacific this water is nice and warm. The last couple of days I've been dividing my time between getting sunburnt on reclining beach chairs, swimming, and walking along the beach. This is my first time in 2 weeks that I'm again traveling solo, the others with ...

Phnom Penh journal: My first days in Cambodia

Tue, 16 Jan 2007 00:23:41 GMT

Holding a handerkerchief to my nose I breathe in as we bounce along the dirt road. We are making the 14 km return trip to phnom Penh from the Choeung Ek killing fields. This is my third day in Cambodia.

We made the crossing by boat from Chau Doc, Viet Nam, to the Cambodian border, then continued by boat and bus to reach phnom penh. Exhausted we checked into the Capital guest house near the center of town. Phnom penh is a bit intimidating in the evening. The streets are almost completely disorted by 9p, and its advised not to walk alone or carry a bag at night, so we decided to make ...

Cambodia journal: The Kingdom of Cambodia

Mon, 15 Jan 2007 23:55:50 GMT

Visiting Cambodia ... (also known as Cambodge, Kampuchea, kambuja, or kamboja depending how you translate it!)

Mekong Delta journal: 3 Days in the Mekong Delta

Sun, 14 Jan 2007 22:41:34 GMT

For my last days in Vietnam I went on a 3 day tour of the Mekong Delta, which finishes in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It ended up being cheaper to book a tour than doing it yourself, so at 730a we booked the tour that left at 8a. It was a slightly hectic morning, Ian ended up stalling the bus driver who kept threatening to leave, as we finished packing and checkedout.

The bus took us to the Mekong, where we boarded a boat to visit a couple of villages, one specializing in coconut candy making, another that made rice paper. From the limited tours i've been on, it seems they are always trying ...

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) journal: Ho Chi Minh City

Sun, 14 Jan 2007 22:20:43 GMT

Crossing the streets in Hanoi can be challenging, but crossing the chaotic roads in hcmc can be quite scary. Not only do you have to weave your way through tons of motorbikes, but also cars, minivans, and huge tourists buses.

I've been hanging out with the same group from Dalat, Marlene, Ian, and Dave - we ended up finding a nice cheap guesthouse down a side street in the backpacker district. HCMC is about twice as big as Hanoi, plus the city and it's people are a bit wealthier than the North. Since there is so much to see in the city we decided to follow a walking tour shown in the ...

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) journal: Random Things I've Seen ...

Wed, 10 Jan 2007 20:55:08 GMT

Okay, I've been sort of lazy about updating my journal, so I'm going to continue the trend with a top 5 list :)

Top Five Random Things I've Seen on motorbikes in Vietnam ...

5. Two people carrying a mirror between them, and the guy on the back slumped against it.

4. A father driving a bike, the mother on the back, and this 10yr old kid fast asleep between them.

3. Five people somehow squeezed onto one bike.

2. A mattress - yes, you can carry this folded over on the back of a bike.

And ...

1. A GIANT-HUGE dead pig wrapped in wire and tied to the ...

Dalat journal: Motorbiking in Vietnam

Tue, 09 Jan 2007 17:50:03 GMT

From Hue I traveled down to the costal town of Hoi An for a day. The town has about 200 clothing shops that make custom clothing, so many people visit just for the shopping - there really wasn't too much else to do.

After Hoi An I boarded the night bus for Dalat, a mountainous area in the central highlands. I don't think a single street in the town was flat, it felt similar to walking the hills of San Francisco. I've been hanging out with a group of English and Germans and we decided to rent motorbikes and go around the area. Cruising down the hills, forests all around, it was so ...

Hue journal: Hue and the DMZ

Wed, 03 Jan 2007 18:10:26 GMT

Every town I visit in Vietnam seems busy, especially compared to Lao. The air is filled with the sounds of honking and every few feet someone calls out "Madame, you buy this," "Madame, motorbike?" Slender but strong women roam the streets carrying shoulder poles filled with fruit and other edibles for sale. Bike venders are everywhere selling food, like dumplings, from a case on their bike. With so many people in the country competition is fierce and everyone is trying to make money.

I've made my way back down the country by bus and spent the last few days in Hue. From 1802 - 1945 ...

Sapa journal: Time in the Clouds

Sat, 30 Dec 2006 21:18:23 GMT

Sapa, nestled in the mountains of Northern Viet Nam, very close to the Chinese border, is a strange little city perpetually (or so it seems) covered by mist. I did meet an Australian couple that tried to convince me the sun does come out, but I don't know if I believe it. About 10 hrs away from Hanoi, I took the night train up to visit the area for a few days. It's really really cold up here, or at least for SEA, I can even see my breath.

There are numerous different ethnic minorities who live in villages near sapa, which the town has capitalized on. Women dressed in their ethnic ...

Halong Bay journal: Christmas at the Beach

Wed, 27 Dec 2006 21:30:08 GMT

Thousands of huge limestone islands jut out of the crisp blue water of Halong Bay. Known for its beauty, the area receives a lot of tourists, but this also makes it very easy to buys a very reasonably priced all inclusive 3 day, 2 night tour of the bay. So that's how I spent Christmas - kayaking, trekking, and enjoying the sandy beaches. It's always tough being away for the holidays, but being at such a nice beautiful place made it a little easier :)

Hanoi journal: A Few Days in Hanoi

Wed, 27 Dec 2006 21:19:08 GMT

After spending a month in quite sedate little Lao, Hanoi is a shock to the senses. There are people and motorbikes everywhere. Stepping off the street curb into a mass of oncoming traffic you feel crazy, but this is the only way to cross busy streets where the traffic never stops. The trick is to walk slowly and the motorbikes avoid the pedestrians. Still you have a moment of panic as you stand in the middle of the street with motorbikes whizzing all around.

It's a lot easier to get around by hoping on the back of a motorcycle taxi instead of braving the streets. My first day I ...

Dong Ha journal: The wheels on the bus go round and round ...

Wed, 27 Dec 2006 21:02:14 GMT

I've made it to Viet Nam. This is no little achievement, especially the bus route I took!

At 5p I reach the bus station in Savannaket and buy my ticket, then start my wait for the 10p train. After a few hours I'm joined by some Swedish backpackers and then by a designer wearing Denmark couple. A few minutes after 10p we board the bus, the majority are Western tourists, but there are a few Vietnamese. A fight ensues whether smoking should be aloud on the bus, then the Denmark guy begins shouting - "You are stepping on $1,000!" as some guy tries to re-arrange the luggage on the back of ...

Vietnam journal: Viet Nam!!

Fri, 22 Dec 2006 18:27:01 GMT

A month visit to Viet Nam

Savannakhet journal: Wandering around Savannaket

Tue, 19 Dec 2006 18:34:02 GMT

My last days in Lao are being spent in the city of Savannaket. Just across the river from Thailand, it's a city of friendly people and decaying French colonial buildings. Arriving on a late bus I was able to secure the last room in a pleasant inexpensive guest house a little south of the main hub.

There's not too much to do other than walk around. I explored the town, visited the markets, and event went to the tourist office. I asked the girl working there on the off chance if she knew any place that would like an English speaking volunteer. Why yes! The lady, Nick, actually ...

Don Det journal: Hammock Time

Sun, 17 Dec 2006 20:40:36 GMT

Lying in a hammock staring out at the river I don't think the pace of life could go any slower. I've been on the island of Don Det for the past 4 days and it really has been great.

In the very south of Lao the mighty Mekong spreads out and forms the "4000 islands". The number of islands vary depending on the height of the river - some are no more than a meter and covered with grass, while others are up to 32km around. I decided to visit the island of Don Det, a 10 min boat ride from the mainland and known for inexpensive bungalows and beautiful views.

Though a little further ...

Pakse journal: Night Bus to Southern Laos

Tue, 12 Dec 2006 18:09:40 GMT

over the past few days I visited Vang Vieng, and then bussed down to Vientinenne. It was strange being so close to the Thai border again. After a day of walking about Vientienne I boarded the night bus to Pakse. For once I actually splurged and got the nice VIP/ tourist bus. The trip to Southern Lao would be about 15 hrs on a local bus, however the VIP night bus was closer to 100hrs. For such a long ride I figured maybe it was worth the extra $7. The bus was quite nice, a double decker sleeper bus that felt strangely like an airplane. On the bus's tv they played a Thai version of the ...

Vang Vieng journal: A Bus Ride Through Laos

Tue, 12 Dec 2006 17:46:22 GMT

As the Laos radio blares, the lady in front of me is getting sick for the fourth time. This really must be the windiest road I've seen. I don't think there's been a straight section in over 5 hours of driving. Instead of dynamiting a path through the mountain, the road reflects every contour. This means the views are excellent - beautiful dramatic cliffs and fog covered hills.

The bus stops to pick up a lone man beside the road. No one seems to be bothered he boards the bus with his rifle. The ticket taker says something to him in Lao, then the man takes a seat across from me, the ...

Vieng Can journal: What a day !?!

Fri, 08 Dec 2006 02:25:41 GMT

This was a fairly crazy day. My plan was to visit Vieng Thong, a small town with nearby hot springs just a few hours to the East. However, at the bus station they told us we could only get a minibus to Vieng Kan, but could probably find transportation from there. Feeling adventurous I and an Italian couple, in their 30s who own a bed + breakfast near Milan, still decided to board. (I look back and groan). They managed to squeeze 20 of us in there, kids on laps and four people to a row. It was a stunning ride thru the Lao countryside, passing tiny thatch hut villagers with woman holding babies ...

Phonsavan journal: The Plain of Jars

Fri, 08 Dec 2006 02:15:05 GMT

From Sam Neua I took another 10 hr bus ride down to Phosovan. Up in cold Sam Neua I ended up getting sick and so when I arrived I spent my first 2 days in bed with a very bad cold and sore throat. I finally ended up seeing a doctor (I know - how rare is that! ;) The very sweet lady at the guest house walked me to the clinic down the street, then the doctor - an older Laos man educated in France, took one look and gave me some antibiotics for my infected throat. It was all very straightforward, and no hassle with insurance since the whole thing only cost $2.40.

On Thursday when I felt ...

Sam Neua journal: Enduring Legacy

Fri, 08 Dec 2006 01:58:10 GMT

Sam Neua is another fairly small town in Northern Laos. It's at a higher altitude making it very cold! well, for Laos anyway. When I walked down the main street (freezing in my only sweater) it was lit at various points with small bonfires surrounded by people talking or playing checkers. I guess they know how to stay warm.

From Sam Neua I took a day trip to visit the nearby Vieng Xai caves where Pathet Lao leaders hid while being bombarded by American bombs in the 60's and 70s. The leaders and their families had lived in these caves for years making some quite elaborate with concrete ...

Nong Khiaw journal: Fishing in Muang Ngoi Neua

Sun, 03 Dec 2006 02:14:09 GMT

Muang Ngoi Neua is a very tiny village next to the Nam Ou river and only reachable by boat, so no cars or motorbikes in the town. It is packed with thatch guest houses all very cheap $1- to 2 and with their own balconies and hammocks. On the boat ride we met another Brit – James. The slow boat was very nice, the boat easily gliding upstream past huge forested mountains. The four of us rented thatch huts next to each other at Nicksa’s guest house with me and Claire sharing due to lack of rooms. I gave Kan the owner one of the childrens books for his cute little daughter – Nicksa. He seemed ...

Nong Khiaw journal: A Visit to Nong Khiaw

Sun, 03 Dec 2006 01:53:33 GMT

Ok, it's been a little while since I've had a chance to update this journal, unfortunately the internet isn't as easy to get to as in Phon Phisai. I'm adapting to rustic Northern Laos pretty well - cold showers, cold weather, electricity from 6p-9p, bumpy roads, and beautiful scenery. However, I still have the desire to get an oozie and get rid of all those @$!%* noisy roosters each morning, I guess that will eventually pass ... ;)

I ended up staying a 3rd day in Luang Prabang. I visited a non profit place called Big Brother Mouse that publishes Laos kids books and encourages ...

Luang Prabang journal: First day Backpacking

Sun, 26 Nov 2006 18:54:46 GMT

Well, I'm off on my travels. I'm now an official backpacker.

Friday, my last day was tough - so many good byes, followed by a border crossing, and then a 10hr bus ride to Luang Prabang. I was supposed to travel with another volunteer, but do to some complications she wasn't able to go traveling. I made the mistake of crossing the border a little too late, 4p, so when I arrived in Vientienne all the money exchange places were closed. Luckily I sold some books before leaving Thailand, so had JUST enough money for a bus ticket to Luang Prabang and a tuk-tuk ride once there.

I got ...

Laos journal: Adventures in Laos

Sun, 26 Nov 2006 18:06:25 GMT

Since the other journal was getting packed with entries, I've decided to make a journal just for Laos. The backpacking adventures have begun ...

Namsom journal: Visiting friends in Namsom

Mon, 20 Nov 2006 02:20:29 GMT

For my last weekend in Thailand I went with Alex to visit some friends who are volunteering in Namsom. Namsom is a small town about 4 hours to the West, fairly equivalent to Phon Phisai but with some small mountains. Jenny, a volunteer from Switzerland who started the same time as me, also joined us Friday morning for the trip to Namsom.

We were greeted on arrival at the Namsom bus station by waving tuk-tuk drivers offering to take us to "Ban Falang" - foreigner house. As you can see the town gets few "Falang" visitors other than the volunteers at the dorm (Ban Falang) or occasional ...

The World journal: Sarah's Trip

Tue, 14 Nov 2006 02:39:17 GMT

"Never is Life so Exciting as at the Beginning of a Journey" - Philosopher

"It Sucks that You are Leaving" - Friends

(Email the author at - baxter222sarah@gmail.com )

Phon Phisai journal: Random Thoughts of the Week

Wed, 08 Nov 2006 23:44:23 GMT

This week I've decided to write about some random things I've seen, that remind me how different and not so different it is living here in Thailand.

Blessing of a Spirit house - Last Thursday when I awoke in the morning I saw a red spirit house being cemented to the ground outside. One of the pictures from the beauty contest, is a pic of me infront of the tall red spirit house, which is a home for wandering spirtis or ghosts. I asked Jack about it and he said that a ghost of an old woman had been seen around the area lately. The tree she had been living in was probablly cut down, so ...

Phon Phisai journal: A New Experience

Tue, 07 Nov 2006 03:39:34 GMT

I never thought I'd say "I've been in a beauty contest", let alone a Thai beauty contest - but that's how I spent my Sunday!

The Loy Kratong festival was celebrated this weekend in Phon Phisai. The festival gives thanks to the river by floating small boats made from banana leaves down the river. A week long celebration was held at one of the local wats, ending with a beauty contest on Sunday. Jack had asked me a few days earlier if I'd like to be in the contest and represent his new organization (Isan-survivor www.isan-survivor.org). Anyway, I agreed. So I am now the first white ...

Phon Phisai journal: First Day of School (Again)

Tue, 31 Oct 2006 22:33:10 GMT

Well, I'm back teaching at the secondary school again. Monday was our first day of class, however we couldn't do much since so many students were MIA, in particular almost all the boys. The teacher said that usually happens on the first day back. It did give us an easy day to socialize before official teaching begins.

While talking with the teacher, formerly known as Yuphaporn, she told me her new name is Pitipatakan, "Pat." That's right, over the break she changed her name. Funny enough this goes back to the whole fortune teller business. After the psychic had advised me to make ...

Phon Phisai journal: A Visit to Wat Phu Tok and a Waterfall

Tue, 31 Oct 2006 04:00:31 GMT

I returned from my trip to Laos on Saturday. It was somewhat bittersweet getting my Thai visa - I now only have 30 days left of volunteering in Phon Phisai. I came back early to join a big group of Travel-to-Teach volunteers going to Wat Phu Tok on Sunday. Jack and Cindy, the Nong Khai Coordinator, had arranged for a bus to take about 20 volunteers to the wat and then a nearby waterfall.

Wat Phu Tok is an untouristed mountain wat with spectacular views. I'd been wanting to visit it for a while, but it is impossible to reach by public transit. The mountain has 7 levels, each with ...

Vang Vieng journal: Beautiful Vang Vieng

Sat, 28 Oct 2006 05:48:42 GMT

So I've just returned from spending the last few days in Vang Vieng, Laos. I had a great time and it is a beautiful town. Here are some of the highlights:

* Floating down the river on an inter tube, with the occasional stop off for drinks. Zip lines and swings are set up at each of these stops so you can jump into the nice cool river.

* Eating snake with a guy who worked for the UN in East Timor

* Staying in a hut along the river, plus seeing the beautiful mountains

* Banana pancakes - with the addition of chocolate sauce - yum! And they stay open late

* The ...

Phimai journal: Ruins in Phimai

Sat, 28 Oct 2006 05:23:16 GMT

Monday morning I boarded a bus to nearby Phimai - a small town 1 1/2 hours away and known for its ancient Khmer era ruins. By the third stop the bus was packed. I spent the time window watching and marveling at the efficiency of 2 bus men who "helped" with boarding. One man stood at each door of the bus nearly throwing people and their belongings on and off the buss. They would leap back on as the bus was starting to roll away. We approached Phimai and I gathered my things and headed to the door with some others preparing for the bolt outside during the 10 second drop off.

I made my ...

Khorat journal: Visiting Khorat

Sat, 28 Oct 2006 04:54:12 GMT

On Sunday I left Alex and Sue to visit the city of Khorat. The city is in the Southern most part of what is considered "Isan" aka. NE Thailand, just 5 hours from Bangkok. I was planning on taking the 1p train, but at 7a as I'm walking to the shower Sue came in. She had just talked to her cousin and discovered there was an earlier train I could take. I tried to explain I didn't mind taking a later one, but she thought I would be more comfortable arriving earlier. As we raced to the train station, traditional Mulan Thai music played on the cd player and I sat in the back trying to put the ...

Udon Thani journal: Trip to Udon

Sat, 28 Oct 2006 04:23:38 GMT

Our last day of teaching school at Jack and Yuphaporn's house was on Thursday. (Uh last Thursday, I'm playing a little catch up with these entries.) We said good bye to all the kids and played some final games. Many of them thanked us with little presents, like pillows, limes, and tiny fish in plastic bags - aww!

On Friday I left with Alex to spend a day in Nong Khai. It was so nice indulging in some "farang" food like pizza and banana pancakes. These pancakes are a very popular item with Westerners, they are very doughy and folded over with bananas and raisins with condensed milk ...

Phon Phisai journal: A Wedding - Thai Style

Wed, 18 Oct 2006 03:31:15 GMT

At 2 A.M. I heard the first ratteling of pots and knocking of hammers in preparation for the days wedding. One of the neighborดs sons was marrying, I think, a cousin in Jackดs family. Who ever was getting married, it was a time for celebration. When I left to go running around 6 A.M. a huge stage had been constructed at the end of the driveway and tables were being set.

Though many people arrived early to help out, the majority of guests arrived at 8AM. I would guess about 100 people were present. As people helped themselves to bowls of various meats, veggies, and sticky rice, ...

Phon Phisai journal: Fortunes and Blessings

Wed, 18 Oct 2006 03:17:15 GMT

On Friday, after we finished teaching at Yuphaporn's she asked if we were interested in talking with a fortune teller. Yu usually has readings done every 3 months. The fortune teller is known around the village for being very accurate, plus it's less than a dollar - cool! Yu gave the lady a call.

She arrived at Yu's house a half hour later. The middle age woman seemed quite friendly and took a seat on the floor to perform Joe and my readings - Alex thought it was all nonsense. I had my cards read first. From the spread cards I drew 12, which she interpreted to give me a basic ...

Phon Phisai journal: October Days ...

Wed, 11 Oct 2006 20:58:05 GMT

So what have I been up to?

This week the volunteers, Alex, Joe, and I, have been busy teaching. Though the students have a 1 month break they’ve been happily coming over to Jack’s house in the morning for some free English lessons. The classes are supposed to start at 10a, and go for 1 ½ hours or so. On the first day, the kids began showing up at 8:30a. We had 20 students who we divided into groups. However, since the first day they’ve just seemed to multiply, not to mention arriving earlier each day. Jack keeps telling them each day “arrive at 9:30a at the earliest”. Yet, as we sit down ...

Phon Phisai journal: The Naga Festival Weekend

Mon, 09 Oct 2006 04:21:33 GMT

Naga Fireball Story -

At the end of Buddhist Lent (around October) you can see colourful fireball appearing at the surface of the river and floating up into the sky, 100-300m, in the Phon Phisai region. There is still no explanation as to how this happens. Some scientists think it is the natural gas leaking from the bottom of the river. The gas auto-ignites when it reaches the surface. The local’s call this phenomenon Naga’s Fireballs. They believe that a Naga (a large serpent common in Buddhist-Hindu Mythology) burps out these fireballs.

For the last week everyone in Phon Phisai ...

Phon Phisai journal: A Week Worth of Adventures in Phon Phisai

Thu, 05 Oct 2006 02:59:05 GMT

*** Update - I finally have email again. Since my Yahoo account is no longer working, feel free to email me at my new gmail account baxter222sarah gmail.com. ***

Well, this week has been fairly relaxed. The students have exams this week, so we won't start teaching again until next Monday. I really didn't do much of anything on Monday, except read and play with Toffee, Jenny, and their friends. I think I spent at least 2 hours making/showing them how to make paper cranes, paper dolls, and fortune tellers. There was a HUGE pile of little bitty paper scraps to pick up when we were all ...

Vang Vieng journal: A Few Nights in Vang Vient

Sun, 01 Oct 2006 03:27:14 GMT

Vientiane was fun, but there is not a whole lot to do in the city. I decide to take a bus to Vang Vieng, a little town known for its caving, kayaking, and water tubing. As I wait for the next bus I go over to the nearby Chinese market where I strolled, or should I say clomped thru inches of mud, around the market. Tarpaulins and umbrellas of all different colors make a low roof, for which I must keep my head continually bent down. I did find a nice fresh baguette and some apples for the trip. I walk back to the bus station, and take a seat on the bus. It had a wooden floor and bench seats like ...

Vientiane journal: A Trip to Laos

Sun, 01 Oct 2006 02:11:17 GMT

On Thursday morning I woke up early to get ready (i.e. pack) for my trip to Laos. Besides just the necessity of the trip – my visa would expire on Friday, I was looking forward to seeing a bit of Laos. Since the students had exams this week the timing was perfect to take an extended trip.

Vientiane, the capital of the People’s Democratic Republic of Laos, is a city of French architecture, wats, and fantastic baguettes and coffee. The town is very small for a capital, just a few major streets and a few attractions, but it is the closest major town near the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge. The ...

Phon Phisai journal: A Day of Food

Sun, 01 Oct 2006 01:26:56 GMT

Due to the little matter of a military coup, the presentations for last week were postponed until today. For the last 2 months the students have (or were supposed to) be working on a group presentation about a local Thai herb. The students had 10 minutes to tell us in English about the herb, its medical uses, and how it could be made into a food dish.

At 9a Alex, a new volunteer in Phon Phisai – Joe (22 yrs from Manchester), and myself showed up to begin judging. In typical Thai style nothing was ready, so we sat around talking for the next hour. Everything runs on unpredictable Thai ...

Ban Phu journal: Phu Phra Bat Historic Park

Mon, 25 Sep 2006 04:15:06 GMT

“Some 85km S.W. of Nong Khai, not far from the dusty village of Ban Phu, the eerie wizardy of prehistoric hunter-gathers lingers at the Phu Phra Bat Historic Park. On 5.5 km(2) of forested mountains in the Phu Pan range, the park hoasts a fine collection of prehistoric cave paintings and rock shelters that date back to 1500 B.C.” – Let’s Go Thailand 2005

Ilona, 3 new volunteers who started last week (Rachel, Vicki, Kristen), and myself decided to spend the day hiking around P.P.B. park. Traveling 85 km in N.E. Thailand, which is not very touristy, can be a challenge. Basically, we were ...