Karen Watkinss Blog on RealTravel

Matheran journal: An important word in Matheran is "side"

Fri, 15 Feb 2008 23:44:06 GMT

Before leaving South Africa I’d hurriedly planned an itinerary, but Matheran wasn’t on it. It was only when we had arrived in Aurangabad that Craig told me about what is said to be one of India’s most beautiful, and the smallest, hill station, Matheran located on the Western Ghats range. But it was too late to backtrack so we decided to spend a few days there on the way back to Mumbai.

Matheran is a plateau with a reasonably dense forest cover of 8 square kilometers in Sahyadris.

Matheran literally means jungle on top, and at 805m, resting atop the Sahyadris Mountains the ...

Anjuna journal: Our three-week itinerary revolved around the Anjuna market

Fri, 15 Feb 2008 23:31:09 GMT

Three things had been recommended by other traveller’s for our trip – Hampi, walking from beach to beach in Goa and the Wednesday Anjuna market.

Here we were in Anjuna and I was sick.

I’d come to India with the bare necessities – a change of clothes, three books, miniature toiletries and goodies for Craig, which had long since disappeared. The idea was to do some mega-shopping, and Anjuna is the place.

The journey from Panaji, or Panjim as it is also called, had taken longer than expected. Two buses and lots of traffic, it was a relief to arrive in the central ...

Panaji (Panjim) journal: Panaji or Panjim and Old Goa

Sun, 10 Feb 2008 01:52:19 GMT

The guidebook says that most travellers give Panaji and Old Goa a miss but that it’s well worth a visit.

The official name is Panaji, which means ‘land that never floods’, but it is also called Panjim, Portuguese. It is the capital of Goa, the smallest of India’s many states.

The city lies along the left bank of the Mandovi River and a riverside promenade that is just right for an evening stroll. Above the tree-lined promenade are terraced hills covered in bleached clean churches, a jumble of concrete buildings and ramshackle houses with whimsical balconies and red-tiled roofs.

Palolem journal: In Goa, the beaches really are very beautiful.

Sun, 10 Feb 2008 01:36:50 GMT

The place was full of Russians - beautiful glamorous females - they could be models or hookers. The men on the other hand looked 20 years older.

There was a group of men near me, sheltered under umbrellas, sitting on loungers, a Playboy on one of them. They were dressed in shirts and shorts, chunks of gold on their pinky fingers.

I was convinced they were the Russian Mafia – whispering and on their cell phones. And then out came the booze, a bar-full of it - Jonnie Walker, red wine, Vodka (of course) and more.

They offered me some red wine, which I accepted. And later, just ...

Gokarn journal: The typical dress code for men in Gokarna is modern day hippie

Sun, 10 Feb 2008 01:21:55 GMT

One of the idiosyncrasies of Gokarn is the dress code. The guidebook advises visitors to cover legs and shoulders. And we saw a couple of signs requesting visitors to be modest in their attire.

On the other hand we came across Indian worshippers and hippies dressed very sparingly.

In fact the typical dress code for men is modern day hippie - nothing but a sarong, worn long and occasionally another wrapped around the head. Large sandalwood beads and hair in dreadlocks or left to grow how it wants and caught into a high ponytail or bun when doing physical activities like juggling. No ...

Badami journal: Badami where children play with tyres while cows eat cardboard

Sat, 26 Jan 2008 01:26:21 GMT

Badami is small and manageable compared to many of India’s large cities, but despite this it is still filled with frenetic energy and exhausting.

We had come to see the hillside caves, topped by a fort which was closed at this time.

On our short walk through a labyrinth of narrow lanes behind the market, lined with stalls, shops and houses, we heard the muezzin call the men to prayer, surprisingly out of place in a land of Hinduism.

Children played with tyres and sticks while cows ate cardboard and pigs and dogs scratched through garbage.

The entrance to the caves is ...

Hospet journal: Hampi is an open-air museum

Sat, 26 Jan 2008 01:01:49 GMT

As if it’s not bad enough that the roads are uneven, now they’re painting them. Why?

“What’s that you’re painting on the street,” we asked a woman who was painting a brown liquid over the dirt.

“It’s cow shit,” said an onlooker.

But after celebrating the New Year, we returned to our accommodation to find brightly coloured patterns and greetings.

Hampi’s a strange place, an open-air museum surrounded by boulders. It’s an open air museum, a vast area littered with the remains of ancient temples, towers and cities.

Within a few years after the arrival of ...

Bijapur journal: Christmas Day in Bijapur

Sat, 19 Jan 2008 06:00:34 GMT

After a six-hour bus trip we arrived in Solapur at 6h10 and caught a connecting bus to Bijapur.

Food – India has probably more vegetarian restaurants than the rest of the world combined, something that Craig and I were very thankful for.

In Bijapur we found Masala Dossa, a restaurant that’s tucked away in the market area and difficult to find. There was nothing glamorous about the restaurant, it was a two-storey place, the entrance hidden by a row of scooters – the main mode of transport in India and often leaden with a family of four. But the friendly service and good food made up ...

Aurangabad journal: Ellora Caves

Sat, 19 Jan 2008 05:44:05 GMT

It was a 30-minute bus trip from Aurangabad to the site of the Ellora Caves. After the heat and chaos of the previous day at Ajanta Caves we decided to arrive as early as possibly.

Ellora, known as Verul, has been a place of pilgrimage from ancient times. It is made up of 34 caves, excavated over a period of 600 years, from the 5th to the 11th century AD.

The caves extend in a linear arrangement with three different religions – Buddhist, Hindu and Jain, each with their distinct style.

At the southern end of the site are caves 1 to 12, comprising Buddhist shrines and ...

Aurangabad journal: Mobbed by Santa's in Mumbai

Sat, 19 Jan 2008 05:17:11 GMT

23 Jan Mumbai to Aurangabad, Maharashtra

Wanting to escape the silly season, I asked my 22 year-old son Craig if I could meet up with him in India. When he agreed, little did he know that we were in for a marathon of caves, temples, sore bums and spice.

After three flights, making me three and a half hours ahead of SA time, we caught a bus and two trains through steamy, chaotic Mumbai. I couldn’t believe it when we were swarmed by dozens of Santa’s in front of the Victoria train station. That was it and I asked Craig: “do you mind if we move on tonight?”

Shame! And he’d ...

Caprivi journal: At last - the Caprivi Strip

Sat, 15 Dec 2007 00:28:02 GMT

Caprivi is often cut off on road maps and attached as an addendum, almost as a left-over from the rest of the country. Many people have visited Sossusvlei, Etosha and Swakopmund, but few have ventured as far as the Caprivi. Perhaps the distance plays a role or the colourful history of war before Angola. With the cost of visiting the Okavango Swamps being out of the price range for the average South African traveller, Caprivi seemed to be a more affordable option.

Flying from Windhoek across Botswana in our 19-seater plane the landscape changed from arid reddish-beige to dark green as ...

Windhoek journal: Windhoek - the entrance to Namibia

Wed, 05 Dec 2007 22:44:56 GMT

I’d been nagging Namibia Tourism for the past year to organise a trip to the Caprivi. The Okavango Swamps are so expensive for South Africans and the Caprivi as a more affordable option. The last time I’d been in the area was about 27 years ago when I travelled from London to Johannesburg. We must have spent time at Kasane and stepped foot in Chobe, but it was the mighty Zambezi and gunfire that I remember the most.

Imagine my surprise when, in October, I had a phone call from Chantal Matthee, the manager of Namibia Tourism office in Johannesburg to ask if I was still interested in ...

Clanwilliam journal: Cracks on Krakadouw, Cedarberg

Mon, 19 Nov 2007 11:10:30 GMT

What a privilege to camp in a cedar plantation under a canopy packed with so many stars that it was difficult to make out the constellations, and in the morning to be woken to neighing donkeys. Surely it doesn’t get better than this. But it did, on top of Krakadouw, in the northern Cederberg.

Setting out at 2.30pm from the highest point on the Pakhuispas, 890m, after a 2½-hour journey from Table View where eight of us met, we set off on the 12km walk along the dirt track towards Heuningvlei. Looking back we took note of the peak Faith, with Hope and Charity hidden behind, knowing that ...

Cape Town journal: Common Wild Flowers of Table Mountain

Sat, 27 Oct 2007 03:32:55 GMT

Common Wild Flowers of Table Mountain

By: Hugh Clarke & Bruce Mackenzie

Struik Publishers 2007-10-27 ISBN 978 1 77007 383 8

Available in most book shops and retails for R89.95 or order it from Struik at http://www.struik.co.za /struik/book.book.detail .action?id=2413.

Review by Karen Watkins (author of Adventure Walks & Scrambles in the Cape Peninsula).

What the Cape Floral Kingdom lacks in size, it more than makes up for in species. With almost 1 500 plant species having been recorded in an area of 57 km2 this makes it the largest of the six floral ...

Ceres journal: Hiking Olifanstriverdome – Koue Bokkeveldiking

Wed, 26 Sep 2007 11:41:13 GMT

Olifantsriverdome is the distinctive peak seen from the valley above Porterville, driving towards the Citrusdal. But the best way to access it is on an intricate route from the other side and approximately 75km north of Ceres.

Olifantsriverdome is on my Big Five Peaks of the Western Cape. It’s not an easy route to find but is a challenge for those adventurous, experienced mountaineers.

The last time I’d been there was in October 1998 when we thought we had arrived at the Dome but could not find the final rock scrambling ascent to the summit.

Because of the full day required ...

Stellenbosch journal: Hiking Swartboskam in Jonkershoek

Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:31:17 GMT

Rock scrambling along a ridge, magnificent vlaktes, a kloof and panoramic views, Swartbosrand has it all.

Since hearing about Ernst Lotz book of Jonkershoek routes, many years ago, I’d wanted someone to translate it. This was even more important when I transferred from the Cape Town section of MC to Stellenbosch.

Techno-Tony Heher translated the A/B/C routes in May, using translation software. Mind you, having seen a sample, he still had a lot of work to do in making it legible.

Not only did Tony translate the book but he is also exploring them. When I heard that he planned ...

Cape Town journal: A night out with SAPS

Sat, 11 Aug 2007 01:21:23 GMT

Published in the Constantiaberg Bulletin on July 26.

Pictures and story by Karen Watkins

1. The police enter the house in a security complex in Retreat.

2. Diep River police dressed for action.

3. Adrenaline rush as the combined police force of Diep River and Kirstenhof wait to raid a house in Retreat.

4. Part of the cavalcade of BKM vehicles with flashing lights and decals.

Operation Zero Tolerance - Kirstenhof SAPS, Metro Police and the neighbourhood crime watches come out in force in the fight against crime.

A rifle rattles against a ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Room-with-a-View

Sat, 11 Aug 2007 01:07:55 GMT

N.B. The pictures are from two meets, the first with the Stellenbosch section of the Mountain Club, the second with Rambler's.

As a guest leader for the Rambler’s, they asked me to take them on this route. As a guide I could take them through the valley in Orange Kloof.

Starting from Constantia Nek and following the road there are many junctions, confusing because we can’t walk in Orange Kloof very often. However, I found the start of the rollercoaster path ending at the beautiful brick building, some sort of pump house.

On the way along the road, we came across a short ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Steenberg Buttress

Sat, 11 Aug 2007 01:03:53 GMT

Ok, so I lied and, needless to say, I didn’t enjoy the hike as much as I would if I hadn’t lied. But, what the heck, I need the hike for my sanity.

Steenberg Buttress is a short route that winds up the mountain on easy rock, with a ledge an awesome scramble, a platform and then a cavern. With incredible views across Zeekoevlei, Southern Suburbs and False Bay to the Hottentots Holland Range, it’s worth the effort of the initial route-finding, through alien vegetation.

I’d heard that Tim Jenkin and Sam Greyvensteyn had recently aborted this hike because they couldn’t find the ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Left Face B

Sun, 29 Jul 2007 01:17:55 GMT

Table Mountain is the icon of South Africa worldwide. The only city dominated by a mountain and it’s also a World Heritage Site.

Left Face B, also known as Mystery B, takes in all the beauty of the setting of the mountainside above the Mother City. But rather than admiring the views of famous landmarks and watching boats and yachts in Table Bay, try to concentrate on the route-finding, made more adventurous after the fire of one year ago.

If you are a newcomer to hiking and have never climbed the chains on Lion’s Head, don’t even think about doing this route. Keep it for the ...

De Doorns journal: Leeuwenboschfontein

Fri, 20 Jul 2007 07:07:57 GMT

Leeuwenboschfontein is only 220km from Cape Town and the drive alone makes it worthwhile.

The Hex River is surely the most beautiful valley in the country. Surrounded by majestic mountains, at this time of year many covered with glistening snow. Wave upon wave of vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, in spring pregnant with bunches of purple and green grapes. It’s not surprising that it’s one of the richest farming areas in South Africa.

As we head for the Hex Pass we search the Western Capes highest mountain, Matroosberg at 2 249m, for the rock image of the matroos (sailor) ...

Cape Town journal: Hoerikwaggo Table Mountain Classic Trail

Sat, 07 Jul 2007 06:24:02 GMT

Sniffing fynbos-scented air while watching peaklets transform from manganese black to quartzite pink and then sandstone cream, as sugarbirds sing, it’s easy to imagine that you’re in the sticks and not above a metropolis.

When I was offered a place on the upmarket Table Mountain Trail, I jumped at it. Who wouldn’t - three days and two nights of luxury with “white linen” accommodation, exquisite cuisine, transported and guided?

For many years I’ve been a regular hiker and know many nooks and crannies on Table Mountain, but I resolved to see Cape Town and the ...

Noordhoek journal: Backpacker & Adventure Conference & Expo

Sun, 01 Jul 2007 02:45:23 GMT

“Come and see our worms,” was the greeting from Toni Shina and Lee Harris, co-owners of South Africa’s original backpacker. They were referring to their latest ‘greening’ initiative, Can-O-Worms composting of the Backpacker kitchen waste. No wonder they were awarded the annual Hoscar in 2006 for the best backpacker in Africa, judged by 550,000 travellers.

That’s how I came to be invited to the Backpacker & Adventure Conference & Expo, held on June 14 and 15, at Monkey Valley in Noordhoek.

Tourism is being hailed as the ‘new’ gold of the South African economy ...

Porterville journal: Hiking the Waterval trail near Porterville

Sun, 01 Jul 2007 02:07:44 GMT

Published in Buite Burger in June and on www.uncoverthecape.co.za

This is an adventurous route, starting in a densely wooded ravine with 20-odd waterfalls and tiered pools. The path then leaves the gorge and meanders across the mountaintop, following the ridge above the farm, before descending a gorge to another farm and dam and then following a jeep track back to the start.

When entering a vakansieplaas, it’s unusual to be greeted by an indemnity but when hiking the eight-hour circular Waterval, route it’s easy to see why owners Mac and Susan Jordaan cover their backs.

McGregor journal: McGregor, on a road going nowhere

Sun, 01 Jul 2007 01:59:09 GMT

At the end of a road going nowhere, is the home to artists, potters, garagistes, good food, wine and olives. The 19th century village is full of white-washed cottages in half-wild gardens separated by irrigation channels where water burbles and trickles. A horse grazes on a grass verge as two boys herd cows along Voortrekker Street.

My visit to this quaint place started at the wacky Wine Weekend, at the beginning of June, when our group visited Lord’s Winery at the end of the road. When I asked Jacie and Marinda if I could write about the truck trip up Valkenberg they invited me ...

Robertson journal: Wacky Wine Weekend (WWW)

Sun, 10 Jun 2007 06:14:23 GMT

Wacky Wine Weekend (WWW) means wine for breakfast, wine for lunch and wine for dinner, followed by a dreadful hangover next morning.

WWW is regarded as South Africa’s finest wine tourism event with more than 45 wineries across the beautiful Robertson Valley participating in the weekend event. There is also a host of other activities in addition to wine tasting, such as boat cruises, live music, a half-marathon, mountain bike race, helicopter trips, cheese and olive tasting, art and archery.

WWW also means walking around with a bib for the weekend, like one of those unaccompanied ...

Windermere journal: Inter-hostel hiking in the lake District

Thu, 24 May 2007 23:29:58 GMT

Published in Saturday Star on May 19.

Puffing and panting to the top of England, examining the inside of a cloud, the strange call of a banshee breaking the eerie silence. It is mid-August, supposedly high summer but after all, it is the wettest place in England. On conquering the top I feel like Sir Edmund Hillary, only to find a dog with a slimy ball in his mouth and a two year old who has made it on her own steam.

In May 2005, the right of access was introduced to the area giving people the opportunity to walk freely across the land.

When a trip to the Middle East ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Hole-in-the-Wall & Caveman's Overhang

Sat, 19 May 2007 00:26:42 GMT

Published in Die Burger on 15 May

This is a combination of parts of two interesting routes on the Back Table, incorporating nooks, crannies, holes cracks and fantastic views. It’s a good route to do in summer as most of it is in the shade and it’s great for children, if you can get them to the start. Route finding is a little tricky but this adds to the adventure.

From the top of the concrete road and next to De Villiers Reservoir, continue downhill to the Overseers Cottage on your right. This is one of two accommodations on the luxury Hoerikwaggo Trail. Take the path to the left, ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Hoerikwaggo

Sat, 05 May 2007 06:08:34 GMT

Buite Burger 1 May 2007

Falling asleep under a canopy of stars, listening to the Disa River and an owl hooting, waking to bird chorus, it doesn’t get better than this. Orange Kloof has always been a special piece of paradise surrounded by the urban sprawl of the bustling metropolis of the Republic of Hout Bay. And now, thanks to the foresight of Table Mountain National Park (TMNP), we hikers have been given the opportunity to sleep here, in a tented camp.

The term tented camp conjures visions of khaki tents, smelly ablution blocks and bone crunching mattresses. At the Orange ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking the new Silvermine Classic Tented Trail

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 07:23:55 GMT

On Friday 30 March, the second leg of the Table Mountain Tented Trail was officially in Silvermine by Glenn Phillips, the South African National Parks director of tourism. Part of the collection of Hoerikwaggo Trails, this section starts from Slangkop Point, next to the lighthouse in Kommetjie. Hikers then walk along NoordhoekBeach beside the Atlantic Ocean before climbing a recently constructed path on Chapman’s Peak, controlled access. After lunch, there is another ascent towards NoordhoekPeak before joining the Amphitheatre Path above Silvermine reservoir and the final stretch to the tented ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking with children - Dassieskasteel Traverse

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 06:58:53 GMT

“What’s Stonehenge,” asked a quiet voice. “I like Stonehenge,” said another.

Having summitted earlier than expected it seemed like a good idea to continue to the rocky jungle gym named Stonehenge, and sure enough, the children had a wonderful time exploring the doorways, windows, nooks and crannies of this amazing area while all thoughts of lunch and tired feet were forgotten.

After 30-odd phone calls over the past two weeks I entered Silvermine gate 2 expecting to find the car park full of unruly children and, even worse, unruly parents, but it was a manageable 14 children ...

Barrydale journal: New hiking trail in Barrydale

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 01:04:00 GMT

Barrydale is a place that I’ve always bypassed on the way to other places and it was only when a friend organised a long weekend of day hikes starting that I discovered what a beautiful country town it is, filled with fascinating oddities, farmstalls and eclectic buildings.

Barrydale is situated on the renowned Route 62, known as the world’s longest wine route. Surely no other subsidiary road is as well known as Route 62?

From Montagu, it’s 66km to Barrydale, driving through the fertile TradouwValley. The town is surrounded by the fertile folds of mountains, ...

Barrydale journal: HIKING IN SOUTH AFRICA

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 01:01:41 GMT

Michael Berrisford and I joined CUMhike on their climb of Riebeek Kasteel, an inselberg 945m, protruding from golden wheat fields in the Swartland on Sunday 16th of April. Scaling renosterveld-covered slopes with the odd rock hopping, following an occasional game track and quite a bit of bundu-bashing.

Reaching the summit, the view made up for the rough terrain, with views of Table Mountain 100km away and the Groot Winterhoek Range, Riebeek Kasteel, the ugly PPC cement factory and the farm Ongegund, birthplace of General Jan Smuts.

It’s hard to believe that when the peak ...

Cape Town journal: Homemade, super-size cookies, coffee with créma and fast and free wi-fi

Sun, 25 Mar 2007 06:45:02 GMT

Apart from melt-in-the-mouth, homemade, super-size cookies, a buzzing ambience and friendly, efficient service, what more could you want in a coffee shop. Oh yes, a fast and free wi-fi connection. No wonder the Foreshore branch, Cocoa Expresso, was awarded the title "Cape Town’s hottest coffee shop of 2006" (Central City Improvement District).

Shaded by a brollie from summer sunshine, sitting outside Cocoa Expresso with squawking seagulls gliding overhead, it’s hard to believe that I’m in a busy metropolis. In the two years since Cocoa Expresso opened, it has built up a regular ...

Paarl journal: Hiking down the length of Elandspad

Fri, 16 Mar 2007 08:51:06 GMT

The warning bells were ringing when Rob and Richard voiced doubts about doing the trip in one day. Another warning was when we climbed the steep road to Agtertafelberg – the law of gravity and all that

We picked up Steve Wilson (of ‘secret kloof’ trolley fame) at the AGM, so that made four of us (lunatics) – Peter, Sandy, Steve and me. We drove out to the Du Toit’s Kloof Mountain Club Hut on Saturday afternoon after eliminating some of Peter’s fridge-and-stove packing. Because of the heat and with time to kill, Steve persuaded us to go for a swim – despite being a water baby he ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Hole-in-the-Wall & Caveman's Overhang

Thu, 15 Mar 2007 00:28:07 GMT

South Africa journal: Elandspad is a toughy

Wed, 14 Mar 2007 23:19:35 GMT

To follow

Cape Town journal: Hiking on Left Face B

Wed, 14 Mar 2007 23:02:34 GMT

Left Face B – TableMountain

TableMountain is the icon of South Africa worldwide, where no other city in the world is dominated by a mountain and World Heritage Site.

Left Face B, also known as Mystery B, takes in all the beauty of the setting of the mountainside above the MotherCity. But rather than admiring the views of famous landmarks and watching boats and yachts in Table Bay, try to concentrate on the route-finding, made more adventurous after the fire of one year ago.

If you are a newcomer to hiking and have never climbed the chains on Lion’s Head, don’t ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Hole-in-the-Wall & Caveman's Overhang

Fri, 09 Mar 2007 23:10:07 GMT

Hole-in-the-Wall and Caveman’s Overhang

By: Karen Watkins

From the top of the concrete road and next to De Villiers Reservoir, continue downhill to the Overseers Cottage on your right. This is one of two accommodations on the luxury ...

Paarl journal: Hiking the Puddings route

Mon, 19 Feb 2007 23:49:41 GMT

Waking on Saturday morning, on the veranda of Agtertafelberg hut with Elandspad below and surrounded by mountains, I wondered why I don’t come here more often. And then I remembered the walk the previous night, 2½ hours on a jeep track, uphill and downhill, a slog – boring! But Agtertafelberg Hut is definitely the jewel in the crown of the Cape Town section of the Mountain Club.

The plan is to climb the Puddings Route, that’s the buttress that runs perpendicular to the road, across from the hut. On reaching the top, we then cross vlaktes, skirt a few peaklets before climbing Du ...

Cape Town journal: Myburgh's Waterfall Ravine

Fri, 16 Feb 2007 02:37:47 GMT

Could be published in Die Buite Burger

Every summer, between January and March, one of the most spectacular and recognisable flowers is in bloom, Disa uniflora. These large red flowers, up to 10cm across, occur along streams and wet rock clefts. There are a number of places to see them on Table Mountain – along the stream across the concrete road from the Overseer’s Cottage, in Skeleton Gorge, along the Aqueduct, but one of the best places is what is undoubtedly the most beautiful ravines on the Peninsula, Myburgh’s Waterfall Ravine.

The route is not for the faint hearted or ...

Foz de Iguassu journal: Foz d'Iguazu

Fri, 16 Feb 2007 00:46:35 GMT

To be published in the Saturday Star Travel supplement

Imagine the oceans cascading into a chasm in the earth. We’re amidst a tranquil landscape of untamed, subtropical vegetation with not a drop of water in sight. Surely we’re in the wrong place.

Suddenly there it is, melted toffee pouring over the edge of cliffs, decorated with rainbows catching droplets of water from clouds of mist. Imposing and majestic. Loud and wet.

Travelling through South America by public transport, Foz d’Iguazu is one of five not-to-miss things on my vague itinerary. My journey begins ...

Angola journal: Angola will become a SA tourist destination one day

Wed, 07 Feb 2007 23:23:31 GMT

Air Namiba have Flights from Cape Town to Angola via Windhoek.

SW 745 S 15JUN 5 CPTWDH HK1 0800 1000

SW 172 S 15JUN 5 WDHLAD HK1 1145 1315

SW 173 S 29JUN 5 LADWDH HK1 1430 1755

SW 744 S 29JUN 5 WDHCPT HK1 1850 2050

Fare is R6819 Incl Taxes.

Visa requirments: Yellow Fever and Cholera, Malaria area.

Cost R750 (bloody hell!!!!)

Agra journal: Taj Mahal - built for love

Wed, 07 Feb 2007 02:44:23 GMT

To be published in Travel 2007

“Don’t bother going,” said an Aussie tourist of the Taj Mahal. “It’s a blinding white glare”.

We were sitting in a restaurant in the desert town of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan on the border of Pakistan. His statement bothered me. I didn’t want to be disappointed by what is India’s most recognisable icon, what Table Mountain is to South Africa.

Travelling to Agra the problem rattled through my brain until it dawned on me. He must have seen it in the middle of the day, under the sun’s full force. Forewarned is forearmed and I decided to go to the ...

Salta journal: Altitude Sickness for the first time - and not on a mountain

Wed, 07 Feb 2007 02:06:53 GMT

To be published in Travel 2007

I always imagined that my first experience of altitude sickness would happen climbing a high peak. Not on a train ride.

Travel plans for Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds) are frustrating because the train only operates on certain days. Luck was on my side.

Many travellers visit places like Buenos Aires, Patagonia and so on, but few discover northern Argentina. In the 16thC the Spanish established major cities, such as San Salvador de Jujuy, Salta and Tucumān. Before this, the north held strategic importance for the Incas as it ...

South America journal: MID LIFE CRISIS IN THE AMERICAS

Wed, 07 Feb 2007 01:58:59 GMT

Have you ever had a time in your life when nothing seems to be going right? It was round about the turn of the millennium and Craig announced that he wanted to go and live with his dad, I was suffering with a broken heart and my job was going nowhere. Was it time for change, to do something so drastic? I'll never know but off I went, on a seven-month journey, mainly overland, through the Americas, from Rio to the Canadian border, the aim of reaching California and the daughter of my longest friend. My itinerary was short:

Nazca Lines

Inca Trail

It was an amazing trip and ...

Haleb journal: Join me in Syria in May

Mon, 29 Jan 2007 00:09:21 GMT

Take one month out of your life and join me - mid-life crisis, breakdown, unpaid leave.

NO EXCUSES!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NO REGRETS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!

You write the story, I'll take the pictures.

There's a movie on the circuit: The Syrian Bride, at Cavendish nouveau

The Plan

May, September or October are the best times to visit, when the temp is 29/33/27 in Damascus/Aleppo.

Millway travel quote: Qatar Airways R7394 Incl Taxes.

Syria Visa Incl all S/Fees R670. The Visa can take up to 1 Month to be issued.

OR: Fly Cape Town to Jhb (approx R1200) and ...

Steinkopf journal: Richtersveld National Park

Thu, 25 Jan 2007 22:41:03 GMT

Three hiking trails were opened on the park’s fifth birthday, they are open from April to September and are limited to twelve people, however these are not for the novice hiker. There are no paths and in keeping with the idea of working with the local people a qualified community field guide accompanies hikers. These guides have generations of local knowledge and have been selected for qualities such as a love and knowledge of the veld. They have attended Field Guide Courses and have been supplied with basic equipment.

THE KODASPIEK TRAIL

This is the shortest being a ...

Cape Town journal: Friends of Silvermine

Tue, 23 Jan 2007 22:03:34 GMT

It's happened every year for the past ten years, breakfast at Bertie's Balcony (an open cave) in the Silvermine section of the Table Mountain National Park. This annual event is an enjoyable occasion on any hiker's calendar and a good place to catch up with old friends.

With a predicted temperature of 29degC, the strong south-easter gave welcome respite from the heat; far nicer weather than last year's northerly wind which blew grit into food and drink.

It was a better turnout this year as well, although a few regulars were missing, but not the most important people, Sandy and ...

Namib-Naukluft journal: Africa's toughest hiking trail

Tue, 23 Jan 2007 21:42:25 GMT

Published in Travel News, Namibia Feb/March 2006

The eight-day, 120-kilometre (74.5-mile) Naukluft trail is one of Africa’s toughest, I went along to find out why.

Our first and last nights were spent in an old farmhouse appropriately named Hikers Haven. Next morning we set off along a dry riverbed alive with brightly coloured birds darting in and out of prickly acacia trees. The park is a ‘twitchers’ paradise with 193 species recorded, including the rosyfaced lovebird.

After lunch at Fonteinkloof, much of the path followed an easy zebra path along a ridge of ...

Sanliurfa journal: Sanliurfa is like stepping into the Bible

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 06:05:51 GMT

Arriving in Sanliurfa’s dusty bus station a pansiyon owner whisked me away and drove me to the old part of town where a conglomeration of cream limestone houses clung to the hillside.

Sanliurfa (Sanli Urfa, Urfa) lies in the land known as The Fertile Crescent encircled by the Euphrates and Tigris Rivers. The guidebook boasts of bazaars, historical houses and caravanserais (hotels from Silk Road days). Instead, it’s an open-air museum portraying the origin of where civilisation spread to the world, conjuring religious childhood stories.

This was my second visit to ...

Cairo journal: Cairo - Mother of the Earth

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 05:45:40 GMT

Published in the Weekend Argus Travel supplement in February 2003

Obscured by a veil of pollution and dust from surrounding harsh deserts, is the vast sprawl of a city of contradictions that, miraculously live in harmony with each other. Cairo is an all-out assault on the senses, the chaotic, dusty streets and constant drone of traffic and blaring horns is broken by the haunting cry of the muezzin calling men to mosque for ritual washing and prayer.

Juice stands on practically every corner are draped with displays of fruit and vegetables in season. Sidewalks around the squares are ...

Mardin journal: Mardin blends into the hillside on the Mespotamia Plains

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 05:28:38 GMT

Part of an article to be published in the Weekend Argus Travel supplement in 2007

Other travellers had recommended the city of Mardin, and it was there that I headed the next day. Crossing the endless Mesopotamia Plains I was suddenly taken aback by an amazing sight. Blending into the hillside, rising in tiers were tightly packed honey-coloured houses topped by a 10thC citadel.

Later, when scorching temperatures dropped, I explored the maze of lanes passing under the tunnels of houses. Exhausted, I gave up my quest to reach the castle (later finding that it’s a military zone), and ...

Gaziantep journal: A castle dominates the town of Gazantiep

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 05:16:42 GMT

Part of an article to be published in the Weekend Argus Travel supplement in 2007

Next day I left for Gaziantep crossing a plain of olive groves, pistachios and vineyards. Gaziantep is a large modern city and the main trade and industrial centre of southwest Turkey. Antep Kali (castle) dominates the old town, surrounded by double walls of 100m, broken by 36 towers. Arriving early, two old men-a coal merchant and a leatherworker-invited me to join them for cay (tea) in tulip-shaped glasses. Conversation was limited so I watched life go by, men and boys buying flat ekmek (bread) from the ...

Kahta journal: Nemrut Heads

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 04:41:04 GMT

Part of an article to be published in the Weekend Argus Travel supplement in 2007

On a recent flight from Dublin to Bahrain and passing over eastern Turkey with snow-covered Mount Ararat poking through clouds and Lake Van spreading its tentacles through surrounding mountains, brought back memories of a visit to the Mesopotamia Plains.

Eastern Turkey is very different to its western counterpart, more isolated, third worldish with fewer visitors and local people looking at me as if I’d come from space.

Travelling from west to east, the scenery constantly changed, a tree-spotted ...

Swellendam journal: A little weird but lots of fun

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 02:42:28 GMT

Tucked away in a side street of Swellendam is a gateway opening into a wonderland of faeries, gnomes, wizards, unicorns, elves, butterflies and much more.

In 1991 Minky and Ian Sulin left the rat race, moved to Swellendam and opened their garden and home to share the magical wonderland they’d created. They encourage visitors to work closely with the faeries and angels to heal themselves as well as the earth and to enjoy a more positive and uplifting way of life, to be the adventure it truly is.

Strolling through the garden, stopping at alcoves, water features and reading signs: ...

Cape Town journal: Cape Town is home

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 02:13:41 GMT

There isn't a day that goes by that I don't appreciate living in Cape Town. With all my travels it's still the best place.

The place has so much to offer - the people, the diversity, the mountain. It can be sunny and wind-free in Sea Point and a black southeaster and gale in Newlands.

Published in Weekend Argus Travel supplement 2006

Cape Town is a popular tourist destination, and on top of most visitors’ lists of things to do, is to climb the spectacular freestanding massif of Table Mountain, either on foot or in the cable car. It’s not a high mountain, 1086m, barely a ...

Cape Town journal: Hike to Bos 400 wreck

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 02:04:42 GMT

If you’re looking for a hike with variety and something for children, this is the one: a shipwreck, a rock scramble, fantastic views and not too long or strenuous.

In need of “mountain” with my hip getting no better, despite three weeks of “being good” and sticking to cycling, I thought that a walk to the Bos 400 wreck would be an easy, short, flattish walk. Richard and Kathryn Lowndes joined me, along with neighbour Eve.

We made for the crossroads at the bottom of Suikerbossie and took the right turn into Helgarda Road, then the 2nd road left into Edgar Road. Following this road ...

Deeping Saint James journal: A YEAR IN ENGLAND

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 02:00:47 GMT

In November 2004 I set out for Britain to have a go at being a carer for a few months but ended up doing it for a year. I wanted to see my 19 year-old son Craig who was on his Gap Year, get to know my family and maybe earn a few pounds. I was also looking forward to spending Christmas and New Year with the family and the idea of earning double pay on public holidays was a bonus.

My first assignment was a 92-year old lady in the charming village of Otford in Kent - stone-deaf and badly crippled with osteoporosis, with a twisted spine and chin on her chest. The highlight of her day, apart ...

Nkhata Bay journal: Malawi - you must go there

Fri, 19 Jan 2007 00:18:59 GMT

Malawi – the warm heart of Africa

An edited version of a feature in Explore Magazine, December 2006

THE LAKE

Submerging into translucent warm water, I found myself surrounded by enormous granite boulders pierced by shafts of light and interspersed with abundant fish. At 30,800sq km, Lake Malawi has more fish species than any other body of inland water in the world, home to an estimated 1000 species of cichlid (pronounced sick-lid) with new ones being discovered all the time. Brightly coloured fish of every colour and shape, and a good place to watch an ...

Blantyre journal: Magical Malawi

Thu, 18 Jan 2007 06:47:22 GMT

Published in the Saturday Star travel supplement 25 November 2006

Staggering up the path on Mount Mulanje, we stood aside to allow thin, poorly shod men to pass by, burdened by planks of wood balanced on their heads. When I tried to do the same I staggered under the weight.

“Years ago, one of them was sentenced to be hung for a crime,” said one of the porters. “They tried to hang him twice.”

“What happened to him,” we asked?

“He survived because his neck muscles were so strong and he was pardoned.”

Mount Mulanje straddles the border between Malawi and ...

Cape Town journal: Wild Flowers of the Table Mountain National Park

Thu, 18 Jan 2007 01:49:26 GMT

Wild Flowers of the Table Mountain National Park

(published in the Cape Times on Friday 29 December)

Illustrations: Mary Maytham Kidd and Fay Anderson

Text: Terry Trinder-Smith

Published by the Botanical Society of South Africa 2006

Review by Karen Watkins (author of Adventure Walks & Scrambles in the Cape Peninsula) 255 words

Available from Kirstenbosch bookshops at R250

What it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in species, that’s the Cape Floral Kingdom, the largest of the six floral kingdoms of the world, and it’s right on our doorstep. ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Hiddingh Ascension on TM

Wed, 17 Jan 2007 00:47:03 GMT

Hiddingh Ascension – a route above Newlands and the highest ascent on Table Mountain, most of it not on a path and vertical, and at this time of year it’s normally very hot with no water en route - so what on earth made 21 people turn up on this Meridian hike led by Sandy McDonald?

On Friday at Arnold’s-on-Kloof and Sam’s hike on Saturday, Sandy and I decided to leave cars at the lower carpark in Kirstenbosch so that we wouldn’t have the dreadful climb on the Contour Path back to Newlands Forest Station.

Newlands Forest Station was a busy hub with a huge group from some obscure ...

Jaipur journal: Pink hair, pink fingernails, pink bra

Tue, 16 Jan 2007 23:50:17 GMT

Published in the December 2006 issue of Good Taste magazine:

“Don’t go out,” said the receptionist. “It’s dangerous.”

But I want to experience Holi. So, diving behind pillars and vehicles I plunge into the fracas. Roads filled with scooters carrying multiple passengers, each one having a different colour to offer.

At a junction in the Pink City, three colourful men sit under trees while pink-splotched cows munch cardboard. Turbans and sari’s march past, even the pink buildings appear to glow brighter. A group of musicians materialise, play and dance, ignoring the symphony of ...

Bikaner journal: Karni Mata Temple

Tue, 16 Jan 2007 23:41:47 GMT

An edited version to be published in Diversions magazine by Karen Watkins

If you visit India, whatever you do, don’t try to understand the religion. With its extremely complex and long history and more than 35 000 gods, there’s no shortage of shrines and temples. One of these is a most disturbing one, rising out of the scrub in Deshnok, not far from Bikaner in the north of Rajasthan state. Devotees come to this unique temple to admire the active, after-death experiences of a bardic people!

“There’s good, better and best,” informed my guide. “It’s good if you see one, it’s better if ...

Jaipur journal: Four hours to kill in Mumbai

Tue, 16 Jan 2007 23:39:12 GMT

Published in the Saturday Star travel supplement on 28 October 2006

The South African cricket team’s recent visit to Mumbai brought back memories of my visit earlier this year. I have a dread of large cities with their pickpockets, crowds, traffic, noise and pollution. Mumbai is not normally on visitors’ itinerary but having a few hours to kill before flying to Rajasthan, I went on a tour and discovered some strange curiosities.

On the edge of the Arabian Sea are seven islands, once part of the dowry of a Portuguese queen, now cramped with 17 million people. Mumbai was formerly ...

Barrydale journal: Barrydale has much to explore - a python, a chair for women, wine, hikes & much more

Tue, 16 Jan 2007 23:26:46 GMT

For more pics, check Mare's http://c apetownhikingpics.atspace .com/Barrydale%2029%20Dec %202006%20to%201%20Jan %202007/index .htmlBarrydale is a place that I’ve always bypassed on the way to other places – the Garden Route, Plett and Touwerkop. It was only when Tony Burton organised a long weekend of day hikes staying in a farmhouse owned by Barrydale Municipality, that I discovered what a beautiful little country town it is, filled with fascinating oddities, farmstalls and eclectic-style buildings.

Barrydale is approximately three hours drive from Cape Town along the N1 passing through ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking for the faint hearted on Spring Buttress

Tue, 16 Jan 2007 23:12:44 GMT

Sunday 14 January 2007

After an evening of listening and watching the Rachmaninov Piano Concerto No 2 and Tchaikovsky's Symphony No 5 performed at the Cape Town City hall, what could be better? (Ok with the exception of the O-word). A scramble up Spring Buttress with a visitor.

Denise Hopkins, Chair of Trail's Club put Vic Warth onto me - a man of high intellect - he's purchased a copy of Adventure Walks & Scrambles in the Cape Peninsula. Vic spends part of his time in Spain and the rest of the time in Suffolk, England. He belongs to a scrambling club in Spain and was interested in ...

Barrydale journal: Hiking the Tradouw Traverse

Wed, 03 Jan 2007 05:06:32 GMT

TRADOUW TRAVERSE (working title only – please note that this trail is not officially open yet)

Fri 29 Dec to Mon 1 Jan 2007

Leader: Sandy McDonald

Grace, Jaco, Julia, June (all the way from Oman), Kagi, Karen, Louis, Lucia, Maré, Melany, Nini, Pauls, Peter, Rob, Ron, Serena

I wasn’t planning to write this but have changed my mind.

A number of years ago Tony Burton of Trails’s Club found the farmhouse at Barrydale. In August 2003 a weekend was organised by myself for Meridian when a large group did some of the day hikes around the town and explored a few of the ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking Cairn-Grotto-Fountain traverse

Mon, 04 Dec 2006 02:34:45 GMT

The weather forecast predicted high temperatures but with most of the route being in the shade and me needing a tough walk in preparation for Valley of the Flying Ants, we decided to go ahead. Driving to Kloof Nek there were dark thunderclouds and in fact there was thunder and lightning later, in the evening.

We were five plus Litchi - Alex, John, Michaela, Simon and me. The mountain looked absolutely fantastic with all the bulbous plants blooming after the last fire - pink Watsonias, yellow Barbonica's and blue Aristea's.

Blinkwater Ravine gets more bushy every time I go there and ...

Franschhoek journal: Hiking to the Valley of the Flying Ants

Wed, 29 Nov 2006 05:57:18 GMT

The Valley of the Flying Ants. A mountain trip that I’d heard about many years ago. A Mountain Club trip, rugged, no paths, “not to be done in bad weather,” warned Robin Brown. When I couldn’t join the Stellenbosch section on their trip a few months before because of an injury, I asked Sandy Macdonald if he would lead it.

As luck would have it, the weather report was good and we managed to gather eight ‘toughies’: Kathryn and Richard Lowndes, Lucia Krone, Morgan Behr, Peter Phillips, Robin Brown, Sandy and myself. Only Robin and Sandy had done the trip before and the rest of us joined in ...

Worcester journal: Thomas Hut 75 years

Wed, 22 Nov 2006 01:08:19 GMT

On Friday 3 November, in between showers, 80 people celebrated the Thomas Huts 75th birthday. The event may only have lasted a few hours, but was the culmination of one year of planning.

Passing through the Fairy Glen game park to be greeted by a pride of lions and spotting a herd of bokkies in the near distance, we arrived at the lapa in Fairy Glen.

People talked and drank by the welcoming glimmer of firelight as 60s music played in the background, accompanied by the river. At last we were called to the ‘dining room,’ where tables had been decorated with white ...

Stellenbosch journal: Hiking on Stellenboschberg

Tue, 24 Oct 2006 06:09:38 GMT

“Nothing on this earth would make me go on a hike with Sandy and Peter, you deserve to feel run over!”

That’s the sympathy I get from one of my ‘normal’ friends.

“Some might think Sandy and I are weird with the hikes we lead, but we're in a league of our own,” Peter’s response.

“I'll bet you that person is secretly envious, but won't admit it,” from Sandy!

The smirk on their (Sandy and Peter) faces after the hike was the same expression on my face when I read, next morning, that Peter (Puffer named after the annual Cape Point to Waterfront race) emailed me and ...

Kalk Bay journal: It's worth drving/cyling to Olympia Cafe

Tue, 17 Oct 2006 02:35:14 GMT

Because of my hip injury, I've taken to cycling along Boyes Drive on Saturday mornings, having brunch at Olympia Cafe and then either continuing to Simonstown or returning along Main Road to the Lakeside end of Boyes Drive.

With bicycles stacked against the restaurant window, runners, dog-walkers, children and people of all ages speaking a variety of languages, the ambience at Olympia Cafe is brilliant. The first time I went there was a dull day and I felt like I'd been transported to Alexandria, Egypt. I don't know why because Olympia and Kalk Bay harbour are far more beautiful.

W ...

Swellendam journal: Hiking in Swellendam with Meridian Hiking Club.

Tue, 17 Oct 2006 00:46:16 GMT

When you read this, I hope to entice you to want to go. I have to go back before the end of November and take pictures for Country Life, so give me a call and join me. The weekend was so good that I’d love to do it again.

FRIDAY

John had booked us into a dorm in Adventure Backpackers, although this wasn’t such a good thing for John and I, causing us yearn to don backpacks and head overseas. The house stands in enormous grounds with five wooden chalets, a hammock and a large braai area.

It wasn’t long before there was a roaring fire and we were chatting to other ...

Cape Town journal: Hiking to the MCSA hut

Wed, 04 Oct 2006 00:39:27 GMT

The forecast was for rain but thankfully we had none. Simon joined me for a test hike to see how my hip would fare after the dreadfully painful injection and X-ray before I left for Ireland. As it turned out, I was fine going uphill but slower on the flat and downhill. But it was great to be back on the mountain again and Simon has infinite patience.

We started from Cecilia and saw a group of beautiful Gladiolus on the burnt area of the contour path above Kirstenbosch. Ascending Nursery ravine we often stopped to enjoy the waterfalls and to chat to MCSA leader James. We are all shocked ...

Bahrain journal: Flying business class has spoilt me forever

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 04:22:41 GMT

Early next morning we drove to the airport, returned the car and checked onto our flight after arguing that we were booked in Business Class as guests of Gulfair. Eventually we boarded, were offered a drink, sparkling wine for me, socks/eye patches and earplugs/three-course menu when we felt like eating. This has spoilt me for life – argh!

It was a seven-hour flight crossing Turkey with Mount Ararat poking her head through fluffy clouds, Lake Van spreading blue tentacles through the surrounding mountains and then the Mesopotamia Plains flowing into Iran, a place that I’m dying to ...

Sligo journal: After being thrown out of Harvey's Point hotel

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 04:03:45 GMT

Driving through Donegal Town, past the cloud covered Pullans and Ballyshannon, no wonder we arrived late at the Clarion Hotel in Sligo Town to meet Esther O’Donnell. Not helped by the unhelpful, unfriendly staff and certainly not helped by signs that had been turned - probably by mischievous kids.

We phoned Esther and she returned in glamorous high heels and smart clothes, little knowing that we ‘had’ to walk. She took us to the romantically named Half Moon Bay, only 3km from Sligo on the shores of Lough Gill to walk part of the Hazelwood Sculpture Trail. This forest trail has a ...

Letterkenny journal: Management will have to evict us!

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 03:53:18 GMT

On a convoluted road on the shores of Lough Eske is the newly renovated elegant reception area and 40 new deluxe bedrooms and suites of Harvey’s Point Country Hotel. A miserable wet night but a warm greeting, plus a porter. Walking through the door of my Executive suite was the most amazing sight, too good not to miss so I followed Nils to his room and to see his reaction. The same as mine!

Through an entrance to the 72sq m suite with its separate foyer with sink and mini bar opening onto a deluxe bathroom with oval bath, glass shower, bidet, lou and double sink. The roaming space ...

Letterkenny journal: Hiking Glenveagh National Park

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 03:51:38 GMT

Because our itinerary came late and was in two parts because of NITB and Southern Ireland Tourist Board, plus the tail end of Hurricane Gordon, we arrived at Dunveagh National Park late to meet up with our guide Séan Mullan of Walking and Talking Ireland Walking Tours www.walkandtalkireland .com

Approaching the park from Letterkenny we came across a disappointing, barren landscape but as we entered the park the vegetation changed, as well as the altitude.

After meeting up with Séan, we were treated to a scrumptious English tea of scones, jam and cream. Glenveagh ...

Londonderry journal: Another Great Wall (London)Derry

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 03:18:53 GMT

Another difficult hotel to find. When we did find the place, a complicated parking manoeuvre (for Nils, who failed his driver’s test for parallel parking, and for me with my claustrophobia), in the underground parking area. The Tower Hotel, just inside Londonderry’s Wall, was disappointing – unfriendly, impersonal rooms, cat piss coffee and poor service.

Our itinerary was unclear and we weren’t sure if we had a guide the following day, but we did, the friendly, approachable Fyona who took us for a walk around the 2.2km Derry Wall, taking five years to build and completed in 1613 ...

Ballycastle journal: Giant's Causeway

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 02:57:32 GMT

The Giant’s Causeway is another place where travel writers haven’t described the location well enough for me (and others?) to visualise. In my mind’s eye, I saw a picture of our Cape Town waterfront and its concrete land reclamation puzzle pieces. Not so.

This National Heritage Site is an example of the earth’s evolutionary history and contains rare natural phenomena. The site also contains the site of the Spanish shipwreck Girona of 1588, a nautical archaeological site and popular with divers. Nils and I had seen gold and silver coins, jewellery and other impressive treasures, ...

Antrim journal: Antrim Coast road A2

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 02:45:18 GMT

This was the day I’d been looking forward to - a rope bridge and the Giant’s Causeway, but the A2 Causeway Coastal Route was far more beautiful than expected. All along the route I wanted to stop and take pictures except that it wasn’t my day to drive. Nils didn’t need to take pictures for the iafrica website but I did to illustrate my articles, the more the better.

Not driving has its advantages and map-watching I saw The Maidens - a group of rocks and a lighthouse in the North Channel, plus the Mull of Kintyre Scotland in the distance, made famous by Paul McCartney. Wild fuchsia ...

Belfast journal: Still living with the past in Belfast

Mon, 02 Oct 2006 02:31:08 GMT

It’s not only the number plates that are different in Northern Ireland.

Passing through Newry, known as the Gateway to the North, we found ourselves on the B8 back road via Hilltown to Belfast, a town immersed in a recent war, supposedly of economic importance but for myself, and I’m sure for many readers, an unnecessary war of unfathomable proportions.

Northern Ireland slid into violence in the late 1960s as the unionist-dominated state resisted demands from Catholics for civil rights and equality. The war continued for 33 years and was marked by atrocities that shocked the ...