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Antarctica journal: Penguin Island

Sun, 12 Oct 2008 05:21:48 GMT

And out the round window this morning, Penguin Island. We sailed through the night, in blissfully calm waters, and were anchored before breakfast. Peering out my porthole I saw an island of red rock, dominated by a volcano. A wee iceberg floated past, with a couple of penguins balanced on top, taking a joyride.

Mmmmmm, breakfast. After 2 mornings suffering from the 'Drake Shake', I stocked up on fuel for the morning. We weren't going ashore until the afternoon, but hell, stock up anyway!

Our shore call was set for 12:30, so after a quick lunch we were ready. The sea here was ...

Antarctica journal: Ooooh - Icebergs!

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 14:08:28 GMT

A new day. Now, where am I?

Still in the Drake Passage. Bugger.

But this morning is a mandatory talk from our expedition leader, on Antarctic safety & protocol. No attendance, no going ashore for the whole trip. Mal de mere, or no mal de mere, you have to be there.

So, ignoring my queasy state, I leapt out of bed, bounced off the walls of the shower, dressed and left the cabin before my stomach could work out what was going on. Breakfast? Hmm, let's not push my luck. I wandered upstairs to get some fresh air on deck. Very fresh air. Brrrrrr. Actually forget ...

Merzouga journal: Day 12: Trekking

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 13:41:49 GMT

Lord, what a night! The peace and tranquility of yesterday evening lulled us into a false sense of security. At around midnight I woke up to strong winds, and the back of the tent caving inwards. After about an hour of this, I thought checked Sharon wasn't suffocating under there - she was sleeping with her head towards the back of the tent! Some slightly muffled giggles indicated she was fine. Meanwhile, I was getting showered with the sand that was finding it's way through the ventilation holes at the front of the tent. Nice.

The sandstorm continued for the whole night, our tent ...

Merzouga journal: Day 11: Trekking

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 13:39:27 GMT

Raring to go at 06:00 this morning! I wanted to watch the sunrise over the ridge beside the campsite, and get a few more shots of the area. So I got up early to fit it all in. And it was worth the effort - the sunrise was one of the best I've ever seen. And one of the best views from the loo!

But once we set off, it seemed a far more leisurely day. Mostafa, who normally set a break-neck speed walking pace, seemed to be sauntering along today. Gave us plenty of time to savour our surroundings. Of course, as the terrain got rougher, Mostafa speeded up! Ahead of us, Erg Chebbi - Morrocco's ...

Buenos Aires journal: En route to Antarctica

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 06:21:31 GMT

Boarding the flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia at 06:00 had a certain 'bizarreness' about it. I am heading to the end of the world - and beyond - with a bagful of toiletries and a change of summer clothing. My case, the one containing my thermal undies, fleece, thick trews, neoprene-lined wellies - basically all my polar gear - was somewhere over the Atlantic, having made a bid for freedom in Madrid before being placed on a flight to Argentina some 12 hours behind its' owner. On arrival at Buenos Aires it, too, would be boarding a flight to Ushuaia, and we would be reunited sometime that ...

Antarctica journal: End of the World is Nigh....

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 02:28:10 GMT

Oh. My. God.

This has to be worse than childbirth.

This is awful.

I want my mum.

What am I doing here?

A day of lectures and nature-watching was on the agenda, to while away the time crossing the Drake Passage. For those who emerged from their cabins it was, no doubt, utterly fascinating. I have no idea. I was curled up in bed, rolling from side to side according to which way the ship lurched, waiting to die. Wanting to die. I was feeling truly madly deeply ill. I haven't felt this seasick since the Townsend Thoresen ferry from Felixstowe to Zeebrugge when I ...

Antarctica journal: To the Bottom of the World

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 02:09:23 GMT

Leaving the dockside came with a sense of exhilaration and excitement. We were heading south - first Chile, then antarctica. The crews of the neighbouring ships waved as we passed. Ships sounded their horns in farewell. Were they being polite - or did they know something we didnt'?!

We sailed down the Beagle Channel to Puerto Williams in Chile. After clearing immigration we were free to go ashore, increasing the local population tenfold, it would seem. where was everyone?

This little town is the proud owner of the 'Yelcho' - a must-see for any Shackleton fan. For this was the ...

Oum Jerane journal: Day 5: Trekking

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 08:24:55 GMT

Getting up and packed away for the 07:30 breakfast was tough today. The damp,lurking below the dry sand last night, had seeped up overnight, leaving us damp and cold. Not sure about anyone else, but I was definately grouchy this morning!

But breakfast in the warmth of the rising sun, made everything look so much better. And eventually we were raring to go.

Our route this morning took us across a stony & rocky landscape of an ancient sea bed. It was an utterly amazing landscape, and quite bizarre to think this was once ocean. With no paths to follow, picking our way across the ...

Ouarzazate journal: Day 13: To Todra Gorge

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 03:41:50 GMT

Crawled out of my sleeping bag around 6, and just managed to remember on time that I was a couple of feet off the floor for a change! Otherwise I'd have woken everyone else up with a bump.

In complete contrast to yesterday, it was a calm morning, and I savoured the last desert sunrise of the trip. The dunes looked beautiful with the sun glowing on them as it came up.

After a fabulous breakfast of pancakes, we were packed and ready for 8:30, when our minibus was due to arrive to take us to the Todra Gorge. At 9:00 we were still waiting, and Mostafa and Omar had started playing ...

Merzouga journal: Day 9: Trekking

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 03:00:22 GMT

A rushed start, as we all overslept this morning. Couldn't really afford to be late today, as our half-day trek meant we had 4 1/2 hours to do before lunch!

Our first hour was still on sand, which came hard on our legs after yesterday. It gave way to more solid, rocky ground, and we got our first view of the table mountain that was our days' goal.

We were taking it turns to be ill. Today was my turn, which meant I couldn't eat much. Trekking across the open plain, on a very hot morning, I started to fantasise about - of all things - a bowl of Weetabix! For about 2 hours - by ...

Mharech journal: Day 7: Rest Day

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 02:44:06 GMT

A less cold night, and a lie-in..... what more could you wish for in the Sahara Desert?

Last night Mostafa posed the civilised question: 'What time would you like to take breakfast in the morning?' Well that made a change from '7:30 breakfast, 8:30 we leave'!! We had settled on 'taking breakfast' at 9:00. Time to take photos of the sunrise, have a wash, do the laundry. The neighbouring acacia bush served as a clothes drier - so long as the camels stayed away!

What does one do on a day off in the middle of the Sahara Desert? Surprisingly (given it was our rest day), we all ...

Mharech journal: Day 6: Trekking

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 02:37:29 GMT

It was so cold last night the outside of the tents are white with frost, the inside of the tents are wet, we're frozen...... We didn't sign up for this when we picked a desert trek!! But are we depressed; are we downhearted? We are not. Because today we have the lure of an auberge, with cold drinks, hot showers, and REAL toilets! Yes, it may not sound much, but the novelty of toppling over into viscious acacia bushes, or being nudged by camels, was a toilet novelty fast wearing thin!!

We put on a final show for the local children before we leave - putting on suntan lotion and packing ...

Oum Jerane journal: Day 4: Trekking

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 02:19:48 GMT

We had to be packed, with the tents stowed, ready for 08:00 breakfast. As we had no established routine, no idea how to take the tents down, and had not yet sorted out our day packs for the trek, we had wondered if we should get up at 04:00! In the end we gave ourselves 2 hours - and did not manage to get it down to much less than this for the rest of the trip!

After breakfast al-fresco, the camels were loaded up, and we headed off over the low sand dunes, to start our trek. This was great - exactly how we expected the desert to be.

The camels did not walk with us; we always ...

Oum Jerane journal: Day 3: Marrakech to Oum Jrane

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 02:04:57 GMT

On the road by 7:30, we had 2 land rovers & drivers, Mostafa our guide, Omar our cook, and the 5 of us.

We were soon out of Marrakech, and speeding towards the mountains. As we climbed higher and higher in the High Atlas mountains, towards the Tizi n Tichka pass, it was hard to believe this was the beginning of our desert adventure, the views outside were more alpine than Saharan! We weaved our way up the pass, occasionally glimpsing the snow-covered mountains.

Down the other side and the landscape changed to a red rock, and long flat plains between mountain ranges. This ...

Marrakech journal: Day 1: London to Marrakech

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 01:42:52 GMT

‘Ladies & gentlemen, we will shortly be commencing our final approach into Marrakech airport, where we hope to be landing.’

Hope?

But this is Morocco - where everything is ‘inshallah’ - God-willing. And as we lurched around the skies above Morocco, in the middle of a storm, and holding the plane up by the armrests (like it makes a difference....), there was a lot of god willing going on.

Land we did, and after witnessing the minor miracle of my bag being the first on the conveyor belt in Baggage Reclaim, I was in a taxi and speeding through the damp Marrakech suburbs, ...

Merzouga journal: As improvised accommodation goes - great!

Sun, 09 Apr 2006 09:50:09 GMT

Excellent large hallway, perfect for accommodating stranded trekking groups, along with their guides and equipment. Space to set up a kitchen in one corner. Entertainment is provided by the children of the house, who find themselves with a captive group of playmates. You will be welcomed by every person entering the house.

Make sure you arrive early though, the first group to get there will get the best bit to sleep in!

Meknes journal: Fabulous riad in the centre of Meknes. The owners collected me from the station, and welcomed me with mint tea. The room was stunning, and really very luxurious! Each morning I had a fabulous breakfast to set me up for a day of serious bargaining. Have an evening meal there as well - it is the most relaxing (and delicious) meal. Service is very friendly and attentive. An utter delight to stay here. Find all details in the Lonely Planet guide.

Sun, 12 Mar 2006 05:10:19 GMT