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The next morning i rose at 5am, it was just getting light. I packed away all my stuff and got ready to hit the road. I got a bus from Agra to Fathepur Sikri which is 40 km west, it only took an hour. I stored my luggage at the Ajay Palace Hotel which is next to the bus station. It had said it was ok to do this in LP so I went with it. As soon as I got off the bus a few touts approached me trying to get me to store my luggage with them or offering to be my guide, but I ignored them.
There is a world heritage sight here. Here there is a mosque and the first fort that was built by the great Mughal Emporer Akbar. Akbar was tolerant of all religions and had 3 wives, one was a Hindu, one a Christian and one a Muslim. Legend has it that since Akbar was without an heir for a long time, he made a pilgrimage to the renowned Sufi saint, Sheik Salim Chisti, to seek his blessings. When a son later to be known as Jahangir was born to him, Akbar named him after the saint as a mark of his gratitude and built the new capital to mark his birth. Construction of the new ceremonial capital, with its elaborate palaces, formal courtyards, reflecting pools, harems, tombs and a great mosque, commenced in 1571. A large number of masons and stone carvers worked hard on an area that was over two miles long and a mile wide; they used a brilliant red sandstone available locally, which provides the buildings with much of their lustre. Shortly after the work was completed fifteen years later, it was realized that there was a lack of an adequate water supply and the pristine complex was abandoned.
After having been round Dehli and Agra fort I didn't fancy seeing another one. So I went to have a drink at the place where my bags were stored and asked about getting to Jaipur. They don't allow rickshaws into the main complex of Fathepur Sikri so I had to go by horse and cart. He dropped me off by the main part of the town as the buses for Jaipur don't come into town to the bus drop off point that i had gotten off earlier. I had to stand and wait. There was no timetable and I had no idea how long I would have to wait or on what type of bus I would I get. I only had to wait approx 20 mins or so and a local passenger bus came along. I even managed to get a seat. It was like a double decker bus except that instead of being seats above it was like being on a sleeper train people were laying down.
The journey was quite mad and slow as every so often the bus would stop to pick up more people, but no one seemed to be getting off. About 2 &1/2 hours into the journey we stopped for a break. I deperately needed the loo, so i locked my backpack to the seat, and took my daypack with me. I knew I wouldn't get any western style toilets, but there were no toilets at all. I was told to go to the back of a building and there was a low wall built and I had to sit and crouch and go there. So I did, some of the women just went anywhere they could find a place.
Anyway back on the bus, when we got going again the bus got so packed. Loads more people were getting on and instead of people being able to sleep on the top people were climbing up there to sit as there were no more seats downstairs. Every so often the driver would drive along until he hit the next village and then collect more people. People had to stand now as the upper part of the bus was packed. There was no room to move. All the aisle was full and 2 people sat on my seat handle. Good job Jaipur was the last stop. I was next to the window as well so at least i had some air. Those poor people having to stand for so long. The journey took almost hours. i was so glad to get off the bus when we had arrived.
As soon as i got off the bus a guy approached me asking me how I am and where I want to go. I asked him who he was and what he wanted. He said he is a taxi driver and will take me to my hotel, I asked him how much. I had to take a rickshaw or taxi as it would soon be dark and I had my luggage with me, so was not going to walk. i negotiated a rate with the guy but asked to see his licence and credentials as i had not been in a taxi before, only rickshaws and i was reluctant to get into a car alone with a stranger. I also took down his car registration. Taxis have a TA on the registraion after the state initials, as it has to be registered and licensed and his car did, so I felt a bit better knowing this. i got in and he took me to my hotel. He offered to take me out and about later and to be my guide. I said I'll think about it.
previous travel blog entry
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