A Wild Time on the Farne Islands

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After all our adventures yesterday, you might expect us to take it easy today.  But no, as soon as we settle down for breakfast our hosts inform us that today might be the last opportunity for a while to get over to the Farne Islands.  The weather is going to be okay today, but tomorrow looks like being wet and windy.  They are so keen for us not to miss out that they insist on booking our places. 

So, after another fine breakfast, we all head back down to the harbour, where it seems everyone else has had the same idea.  As we survey the huge crowds all trying to find the perfect trip, we spy our skipper from yesterday.  He spots us at the same time and tries to hide under the counter.  "So you didn't make it after all" he says when we approach.  What is it with Northumberland and the local grapevine? 

Apparently he had a phone call yesterday from our farmer friend.  "You'll never guess whose sitting in my conservatory at the moment".  It really was just an amazing coincidence yesterday.   First that the skipper had mentioned us to the farmer and then that we arrived on his doorstep.  I get the feeling that they will be laughing about this for some time to come.

Our friend doesn't run trips over to the island, so we make our way over the the right boat and pay for our tickets.  We've all booked a place on the morning trip to Staple Island, but I buy an extra ticket for the afternoon trip over to Inner Farne.  The others think they'll be fed up with seabirds by then, so plan to go off walking instead.

It really does seem to be a lovely day and the boat trip is excellent.  We are all pack on board and head off towards Staple Island, pausing on route to visit some of the Farne Islands other famous residents - the grey seals.  As we approach a set of rocks that are slowly being reveled by the tide, we suddenly notice heads popping up out of the water.  It's hard to tell who's watching who as seals are extremely curious creatures.  As we get closer to the rocks we realise that they are covered with seals lounging in the sun.  Everyone goes mad trying to get the perfect photograph and my binoculars are in high demand from my friends.

Eventually, and somewhat reluctantly, we leave and head on towards the Island.  The first thing you notice are the enormous number of seabirds covering the low rocky island.  The second thing you notice are the human visitors.  Our boat contains about 50 people and there must be five or six similar vessels around us.  Quite what the bird think about having their home invaded by these strange visitors every morning is a mystery.

Eventually we all pile off the boat, where we then have to pay our landing fees (unless you are a National Trust member).  This isn't a cheap trip, the boat costs £12 and then there's another £5 to land.  It's also worth noting that you only actually land for 1 hour.  However there are no complaints, it is a truly wonderful experience and a privilege to be there.  They even seem to have a team of three friendly puffins who seem to be watching the National Trust warden as he takes our cash.

The real magic comes from being so close to completely wild birds.  They simply don't have any fear of people, so you can get within a few feet of them.  There are some restrictions as to where you can go and certain areas are roped off so that you don't disturb the wildlife too much.  It's a really wonderful experience to see all these birds at such close quarters and everyone has a huge smile on their faces. 

Everyone also seems to be wearing a hat.  This was a top tip we had picked up before coming and are therefore similarly attired.  Whilst the birds are reasonably tolerant of our intrusion, they will tackle anyone who oversteps the mark by spitting regurgitated fish at them, or bombing them with droppings.  So be warned, things can get messy but in fairness we all return to the boat completely unmarked.

Our hour passes so quickly that it is obvious we have really enjoyed our visit.  Eventually we drag ourselves back to the boat and load up.  However the trip is far from over, we are given a full tour round the island and its neighbours, getting extraordinarily close to the rocks.  They aren't always able to do this, but sea conditions are so good, they really make the most of it.

Eventually we return to the harbour at Seahouses, after a full three hour trip.  We are all really elated by what we've seen, but the others are glad to be back on shore buying postcards of puffins.  Once we are back on dry land we decamp to a nearby tea room. After a quick lunch we split u - Y, M and J are heading off to Caster in search of Kippers. I’m getting another boat back out to Inner Farne.

Sadly the weather turns at this point and I find myself in a sudden hail downpour – luckily I have my coat! The weather seems to delay our departure and we all stand on the slipway with lumps of ice bouncing off us. However it gives us the opportunity to watch a boatload of divers struggling back up the harbour with all their kit. I had never realised how heavy the oxygen tanks are, the divers were bent double with the effort of lifting them. Apparently diving is the other reason people come to Seahouses, there are plenty of wrecks to dive as well as the opportunity to swim with grey seals.

This trip follows the same routine as this morning, but the birds on Inner Farne are very different. Here the Arctic Terns are the stars, or divas might be more appropriate. They nest wherever they want on the island, including right next to the footpaths. If they feel you are a threat to their eggs or chicks, they dive bomb you. This is why you need a hat on the Farne Islands. Their sharp pointy beaks can and do draw blood as they peck at the top of your head. “Vicious little bleeders” according to one lady I pass.

As with Staple Island, we only stop for an hour in total. However it is long enough to see everything the island has to offer, including a tiny chapel containing a memorial to Grace Darling.

After another quick boat ride, I arrive back on the mainland and wander around the harbour area watching the kids rock pooling. I make it round to a funny little stone hut built on one side, but sadly there’s no explanation as to what it is. I sit here for a while writing postcards and soaking up the last of the suns rays, which has finally put in an appearance.

As the others are unlikely to be back for a while, I make the most of an unexpected birdwatching opportunity. The tide is out and the small harbour in front of me is covered in tiny wading birds. Ringed plovers, dunlin and turnstones are all scuttling about in the harbour mud looking for food.

I head back to the B&B to meet up with the others and get ready to go out for our evening meal. They arrive about half an hour after me, having had a lovely walk around Caster. They haven’t found any kippers, but know where to find some in Seahouses that we can have delivered. J’s hoping she can do this so that her husband receives and eats them before she makes it back – she can’t stand the smell!

We’ve booked a table tonight at the Seafields Fish Restaurant that we visited on the first day. Funnily enough it doesn’t seem quite so good the second time around, but maybe we just needed it more last time? I have a monkfish fillet with stir fried vegetables, but there’s just too much. Still it doesn’t stop us getting puddings as well. I think we’ll try somewhere else tomorrow.