Arenal Observatory Lodge: A Place of Beauty

Monteverde to Lake Arenal by taxi
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The taxi picked me up promptly at 7:30am at the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve.  When we went through Santa Elena a few more passengers joined us.  I was again fortunate to sit in the front seat where I had a wonderful view of the countryside.  The tour companies obviously had devised the taxi-boat-taxi transportation to the Arenal area as a shortcut and a way to compete with the bus company that charged so little.  This option cost $25.  I looked at it as much as a tour as I did transportation, and it was a cheap tour!

Curvy, bumpy road
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It was a long, curvy, bumpy ride to Lake Arenal, but it was an interesting one.  It would rain a while, and then stop.  Then the cloudy mist would descend around us, and then rise.  When we reached the lake, our boat hadn’t yet arrived; so I spent about a half hour birding the area and came up with more life birds.  The driver carried my 35-pound suitcase on his head down the steep path to the boat when it arrived.  Then he disappeared so quickly that I had to climb back up the hill to find and tip him.

Driving in the clouds
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The ride across the lake was peaceful—the water smooth as glass.  We could soon see the Arenal Volcano looming from the other side of the lake, shrouded in clouds.  When we landed, more taxis were waiting.  I was the only one going to the Arenal Observatory Lodge, and the taxi-boat-taxi service was door-to-door.  The only lodging within the Arenal National Park was the lodge where I was staying.  I had reservations for just two nights, but I ended up staying for four.  The lodge had a separate building where I would be staying, about 500 meters from the main building and restaurant.

Green mountains
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After I checked in at the main building, the taxi driver drove me back down the hill to La Casona, where I was staying.  I almost cried from the sheer beauty of the place.  The large front porch looked west toward Lake Arenal.  To the south and east were gardens, and to the north, a mere 1.7 miles from the Lodge, was the Arenal Volcano.  Walking into La Casona I found myself in a large, beautiful common area with a sofa, chairs, and a dining table.  There were five private rooms that shared a bathroom with two shower rooms.  In my room was a double bed complete with towels shaped like swans.  Two chairs faced a large picture window that looked directly toward the volcano.  There were nightstands, a table and chair, and a safe for valuables.  I was delighted with everything!

Across Lake Arenal by boat
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I wasted no time in unpacking, strapping on my binoculars and other gear, and climbing up the hill to the main buildings to explore.  By the time I’d made the 500-meter climb I was winded!  I made arrangements with the staff to pick me up every morning for breakfast; I could easily walk back down the hill.  The trails all began in the area of the main building, and that’s also where the pool, Jacuzzi, restaurant, observation tower and suspension bridge were located.  A guide was waiting in the lobby for a couple who had made reservations for a horseback ride.  I said I would like to go when they returned, so I went to have lunch in the restaurant and watch the volcano while I waited.  Every so often the volcano would emit a rumble, and boulders would roll down the side, picking up speed and finally breaking into tiny pieces before they reached the bottom.  I was told that they glowed red at night, as did the lava that trickled out; but it all just looked gray in the daylight.

Arenal Volcano, from the boat
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After lunch I went for my horseback ride, leaving my things at the front desk for safekeeping.  The guide let me decide which horse I wanted and I chose his.  He didn’t mind.  We walked down a wide path and then into the forest on a small muddy path, which took us to the river, which he said we were going to cross as an adventure.  The water almost reached my feet and did splash onto my legs, but it was worth it for the experience.  Later I asked if we could gallop and the guide spurred both horses on; but the one I was riding would only go at a slow walk or a very fast trot, which rattled my bones.  He said his horse was stubborn, so I asked if we could trade.  He didn’t mind at all, even though it meant shortening my stirrups and lengthening his again.   When I touched my horse’s flanks with my heels, she quickly went into a smooth gallop.  From then until we reached the barn, it was all I could do to prevent her from galloping or running.  What a great time!  The ride only cost $8, but I tipped the guide an additional $10; it was still cheap compared to what I would have paid back home.

View of Lake Arenal from front porch of La Casona
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I spent the rest of the afternoon walking through the gardens, checking out the pool and Jacuzzi, climbing to the observation tower, crossing the suspension bridge, and just enjoying the beauty of the place.