Random Thoughts

Here are some not-so-random thoughts about this odd country:

* The so-called President Ilham Aliev is everywhere. You cannot walk or drive anywhere without seeing enormous billboards with his picture; his photo adorns most offices and many shops. He was “elected” in 2003 with an unlikely 77% of the vote; his most important qualification seems to be that his father ruled here as dictator for 23 years.

I took the subway just for fun. It was clean, fast, crowded, and very, very deep, like Moscow’s. People were complaining that the fare had just been raised 500%--to 25 cents.

Like all dictators, he has amazing wisdom, comes up with brilliant quotes, and is an expert in all areas of human endeavor from economics to sports to architecture. No wonder most public buildings, including the airport, are named after him or his father. His son is already being discussed as his natural replacement one day, as is his wife. Here as in most former Soviet republics, a people oppressed by the Russian boot for 70 years has simply replaced the boot.

* People here don’t smile for photos. They laugh and joke until someone holds up a camera, and then they become grim, as for a mugshot. This isn’t just for tourist pics; I’ve seen many families on outings where happy kids were admonished for not getting serious enough when their photo was taken. The only explanation I’ve found for this is that for most Azeris, the only time they used to have their photo taken was by the police.

* Almost all men here smoke. Everything smells from smoke, including my hair. Unlike in Europe, women here usually don’t smoke. Of course, as women here become more liberated, they’re smoking more, too.

* As in all major cities of developing countries, traffic here is a nightmare. But there’s a local twist—all drivers honk their horns constantly. My driver told me it’s because traffic only became really bad 2 or 3 years ago, and people are still confused and coming to terms with it.

* In two weeks of 75+ degree heat, I didn’t see a single man wear shorts. In keeping with local custom, I didn’t either, until my last day here, hiking in the wilderness. Women wear mini-skirts and tank tops—and practically never shorts, either.

* I took the subway just for fun. It was clean, fast, crowded, and very, very deep, like Moscow’s. People were complaining that the fare had just been raised 500%--to 25 cents.

* I’m eager to get home. I know that for a day, everything will seem magical. I’ll blog one more time before leaving—about my visit to a refugee camp, and to the 11,000-year-old petroglyphs in Gobustan.