A Wet Vigo

Early morning at Campanha railway station
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Missed breakfast again because of the early start but at least the taxi driver takes us straight to the railway station where the sun is rising as we board the train. This is not the flash train we have been used to; its diesel powered not electric, basic seats and no frills like cafeteria service. In fact this is the first time we have just got on the train using our Eurail passes without booking a seat first. Just get on and sit where you like, the guards still checks we have tickets.

Porto to Vigo train
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Plenty of stops as we pass through the Portuguese countryside, which is quite attractive fields of corn, vegetables, vineyards, forested hillsides and small villages. To our surprise there are many plantations of gum trees on the hills as we pass by and plenty of saw mills. We get to the border station, still in Portugal I think, where the train guard changes, Spanish now, and our tickets are checked again. There is no obvious point where we enter Spain, no signs, and no barriers. Our Australian State and Local governments should take note, it’s just a line on a map and not that important. Think of the taxpayer’s money we would save, no signs saying this is my state, territory, council etc.

one with a death trap outside the lift door

Vigo harbour
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Vigo is grey and overcast as we arrive, rain is threatening and it's catch a cab again. This time we get done in not by the Cabbie but by a large running event being held in the centre of town meaning we have to do a circuit around the centre and approach from the opposite side to get to our hotel. Our driver is most apologetic but it's not his fault, costs us about double the normal fare, about 8 Euros instead of 4. Back to the Spanish again, no English in the Hotel Nautico where we are staying but the staff are as helpful as they can be.

It's raining in Vigo
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In Portugal in fact, everyone has a smattering of English and we had no problems communicating, in fact it's almost the second language unlike in Spain where they seem to be arrogant enough to think everyone should speak Spanish. The Portuguese regard the Spanish as prats because they expect the Portuguese to understand and speak in Spanish when they are in Portugal and they refuse to speak Portuguese. The Portuguese just get on with it and are quite multilingual. Portuguese to our ears sounded most like Russian with its zsh's and guttural pronunciation. We did learn the word "obrigardo" which means thankyou and is essential.

Vigo in the wet
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Anyway, checked in, we are starving and find a bar almost next door, we are not made welcome, it's almost afternoon closing time and we are an inconvenience. We persevere and get something to eat and drink that is served most grudgingly, we won't be back even though it's next door and the plate of sardines was excellent. After paying the bill we walk down to the harbour only a few hundred metres away, check out the tourist information booth before returning to the Hotel, fortunately there has been no rain. Our room is not large but adequate and is on the second floor facing the street with a small but accessible balcony. The bathroom is tiny, one person at a time definitely, but it has all mod cons. A masterpiece of design to get everything in and still be useable. Another Spanish Hotel lift, this time one with a deathtrap outside the lift door. I kid you not, the first step of each flight of stairs between the floors is directly in front of where the lift door opens, step to the right as you get out and you will go straight down the stairs! There is a big sign inside the lift warning you in Spanish before you get out.

Near Hotel Nautico
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 Breakfast the next morning is straight out of Faulty Towers, one waiter dressed like a hospital orderly, the other something like a waiter, the bread for toast is produced out of a sideboard draw, ask for one of something get two and vice versa, neither of them speaks any English and you get this long spiel of Spanish as you sit there uncomprehendingly which they then interpret as an answer even if you don't reply, it's quite a comedy.

It's been raining since we woke with the occasional flash of lightning and clap of thunder but undaunted we head for the port area and old city area to see what we can in spite of the rain. At times it buckets down but eventually it eases off only to come down again. It's a case of walking while it's driest and we manage to walk through the old town and up to the remains of some castle walls for a wet view over Vigo. On the way we shelter with the local grass cutter while it buckets down. After some quick pictures we retreat back down the hill to a cafe where we have a Spanish style hamburger, very good, and wash it down with some excellent Spanish red wine. The rain eases to a drizzle and we head for the hotel through downtown Vigo, which is quite attractive with its granite, faced buildings, in fact granite everywhere, the roads, paving stones, you think of it and they use granite.

After the large lunch we decide on a light tea and pick a nearby bar with plenty of people in it. Good choice, sitting down and ordering drinks, we get free tapas plus chips and olives, another drink more tapas and that's tea for the price of the drinks. To our amazement, while we are there three Policia come in, order beers, get their tapas and have another round as well. It's not as if they are off duty, fully uniformed, armed and with walkie-talkies sitting on the bar they enjoy their beers then head off. Bed for us and tomorrow more train travel.