Rivers and Mountains and Fireworks: Idaho

Desolate Landscape, Craters of the Moon
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Idaho had always been a state you travel through, not to.  Especially living next door in Washington State.  But in planning our first road trip in many years, it became clear that Idaho could actually be interesting!  Clearly an outdoor sort of place, we decided to focus on rivers, mountains and fireworks (the 4th of July was coming up!).

So with our Outback loaded up, we headed across the Cascades and the plains of Eastern Washington, entering Idaho just outside of Pullman, Washington.  Our first overnight stop was Riggins, at the confluence of the Salmon and Little Salmon Rivers.  Riggins exists for outdoor sports, primarily white water rafting.  Thus, it seemed odd that, in late June, it was hard to locate an outfitter willing to take us out for a half-day rafting journey.  But, persistance paid off and we had a 3 hour float with several white water interludes that pushed my personal comfort level.  But we survived, didn't get too wet (well, at least I didn't!) and checked off the first of many on-the-water experiences of this trip.

Replace the log structures with yurts and you would probably feel at home in the Mongolian Steppes.

Approaching Storm near Arco, Idaho
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One reason for going to Riggins was that it was enroute to McCall.  We had heard a lot of great things about McCall and were looking forward to our stay there.  Until we got there.  The McCall Hotel was fine, the new waterfront park lovely though a bit commonplace, dining was OK.  But it was all kind of mundane.  We could really have been at any other lakeside town.  So, we were glad that we had only booked one night and eagerly left the next morning for what proved to be a spectacular destination.

The Sawtooth Range, Central Idaho
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Crossing the Sawtooth Mountains, we stopped for a few supplies in the true frontier town on Stanley.  Located an a high plain, Stanley was just "out there."  Replace the log structures with yurts and you would probably feel at home in the Mongolian Steppes.  We then continued a few miles down the road to a most magnificant place - Redfish Lake.  It is here, at 6000 feet, that the last salmon navigating the Columbia/Snake/Salmon River system finally reach their spawning grounds.  With the Sawtooth Mountains directly west, the lake is truly picturesque.  And the Redfish Lake Resort, with its authentic (though hardly soundproof) cabins and lodge, makes a fine base of operations.  We canoed at sunset each evening, rented a motor boat for an around the lake excursion one afternoon and enjoyed by far the best dining of the entire road trip - fresh trout one evening, fine fine steak the next.  And BBQ for lunch!

Trail, Craters of the Moon National Monument
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But, seeing as how we were on a road trip, it was time to move on.  We passed through Hailey/Sun Valley - ski resort towns just aren't the same in the summer - enroute to Craters of the Moon National Monument.  Taking the loop road through the park, we hiked several short trails through the cinder stacks and the otherwise desolate landscape (part of the same geothermal area with Yellowstone National Park).  In the early afternoon, while having lunch at the Pickle Cafe in Arco, we were bombared with gigantic hail that turning the parking lot white and sounded like gunshot as it bouced off the cafe's metal roof.  Even the locals took notice.  We were then off driving through a torrential downpour to our next stop - Idaho Falls.

Among the Cinder Cones at Craters of the Moon
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The Fourth of July is a big deal in Idaho Falls - souped-up car parade, followed by a more traditional parade with floats and marching bands, and the throwing of candy, then a street fair and finally fireworks (billed as the biggest west of the Mississippi).  We did it all and, though a bit more patriotism than is my preference, what more appropriate way  to spend the 4th!

On the morning of the 5th, we headed out, crossed the next mountain range (the Tetons) and began the Wyoming portion of the trip.