Where the Mountains Meet the Sea.

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Leaving Syria was difficult because we met a great deal of friends while in Aleppo and Damascus.  But as the show must go on...so must we.  Now I had mixed feelings about going to Lebanon.  On one hand, my roommate Tania has told me countless times how amazingly wonderful and beautiful her country is, but on the otherhand the American media has made me fear the "dangerous" Beirut.  I'll be honest, I thought I was going to be afraid of every parked car on the road.  Especially the beat up ones that have the potential to be terrorist devices.  I soon learned that one should fear every moving car on the road due the agressive driving, and furthermore, there is no such thing as an ugly car in Lebanon.  It is truly the Paris of the Middle East.  All Audi, BMW, Porsche and Mercedes owners welcome.

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Now let me start the next segment of this entry by saying that Lebanon has now been added to my list of "countries I can live in."  The list is now Germany, Argentina, and Lebanon.  At this moment, the U.S. travel warning states that visits to Lebanon should be for necessary circumstances only.  Well if you are in need of fabulous beaches, mountains, food, nightlife, and good people than by all means your visit to Lebanon is necessary.

Well if you are in need of fabulous beaches, mountains, food, nightlife, and good people than by all means your visit to Lebanon is necessary.

Driving down to Bekka valley through the clouds.
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We arrived at Tania's incredible family home in Adma, Jounieh (about 20 minutes outside of Beirut) on Sunday afternoon.  The warm welcome we received by her family more than made up for the stress we experienced at the border.  Note to future Lebanon goers: it is better to fly into Beirut where you are greeted with a complimentary shot of whiskey than to cross by land where you are greeted with nothing but grief.  Either way you enter, it is more than worth it.

We spent our first night in Hamra (next to the American University of Beirut) drinking cold and delicious Almaza (Lebanon's national beer soon to be exported to the U.S.).  The rest of the week was spent exploring and lounging like Kings.  We visited the Jeita Grotto (a contender as one of the 7 natural wonders of the world) which is an underground cave full of stalagmites and stalactites.  It really is incredible.  We also saw an incredible view of the city by visiting the Basilica of Our Lady of Lebanon.  I have to add that Tania's home overlooks Jounieh Bay, I do not know how she possibly studied in high school.  Her parents were incredible hosts, and I am not sure how they were able to get us out of their comfortable house to sightsee everyday.  We also took a day to visit Bekaa Valley.  Baalbek (headquarters of a well known organization) was just another ordinary town that happens to have some of the world's most incredible Roman ruins.  The Temple of Bacchus should not be missed.  I was almost more impressed by Baalbek's ruins than I was with those found in Athens.  Sshh do not tell the Greeks I said that.  We also toured the Ceder reserves (Lebanon's national symbol) in the north.  The reserve is not nearly as big as the reserve in the south, but the drive to and from is spectacular.  The pleasingly built houses, mosques, and churches, coupled with the backdrop of lucious green mountains make the drive unforgetable and it looks straight out of a Swiss Alp postcard.  Not to mention that the mountains serve as ski resorts in the winter.

View from our bedroom...aka Tania's room.
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But you do not just get mountains in Lebanon, you get the Mediterranean Sea too!  Of course, we spent a day basking in the sun in Batroun (famous for its Lemonade) and another day at the pool (well because quite frankly evenings in Beirut can make you lazy).  The nights are even more fun.  Byblos (one of the world's oldest inhabited towns) has a styling nightlife...even on a Tuesday night.  It has beaches and ruins too if you fancy.  But the real fun goes down in Gemmayzeh in downtown Beirut.  Lots of bars and socialites to keep people of all ages smiling. Literally all ages. Its very common for youth and adults to go out on the town with friends for dinner or concerts any night of the week.  Even some dancing here and there.

Entrance to the ruins of Baalbek.
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Downtown Beirut was rebuilt after the 2006 war, and they sure did a great job!  Standing in the middle of downtown, you would not be surprised if somebody said you were in Paris.

As for the people, well not only did Tania's family show us what true hospitality is, but all of the people we encountered were very friendly.  Communicating with them is very easy because EVERYBODY knows English, French, and Lebanese Arabic.  All of the ads and street signs are in English.  I'm telling you...this country is the secret of the Middle East.  Of course it has been prone to random violence, but it is very isolated and rare.  Fear is not something that should prevent people from visiting.  Although it is not the best for the budget traveler.  Cabs and accomodation are expensive (both of which we avoided by staying with Tania's family). And if you are into shopping be prepared to pay higher prices than in the U.S. Food is decently priced, but we did go all out with some friends on a six course meal and wine that totaled $70 a person.  Not exactly our budgeted amount for dinner, but the steak was divine.  For the most part, we were spoiled with authentic dishes by the Bakhos family.  I am pretty sure I gained 3 kilos in one week!

Temple of Bacchus.
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Its strange because many of us probably picture Lebanon as a bombed out country when in fact its one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen.  So all in all, I truly enjoyed Lebanon and its people.  Thank you again to the Bakhos family and the unrepayable kindness they showed us.  Our stay would not have been the same without you...my tan would not have been the same without you. :)