A Hundred Pounds for a Mango!

Well who can believe it we’ve finally arrived in Japan and after 11 months on the road this is sadly our final destination before returning back to normality.

Every female under the age of sixty seemed to be wearing the shortest skirts imaginable coupled with tights and very high and impractical heels

We decided to start our Japanese journey in Fukuoka, a small but remarkably friendly city on Kyushu island. As usual we hadn’t booked ahead so upon arriving we found ourselves wandering the streets trying to find a little business hotel called ‘Amenity Hotel’ that Gary had previously stayed in. We had arrived into Japan on Golden Week (the big holiday week) but luckily there were still vacancies here.

Accommodation for backpackers in Japan is quite different from other countries. There are not many hostels and those few that do exist are booked out weeks, some times months, ahead and therefore don’t suit people looking for a bed upon arrival. On top of this hostels are, as expected, very expensive. We found that quite often you can stay in a business hotel for the same price or less than a hostel and without the fuss of booking ahead. This suited us perfectly especially as it meant we would have an immaculately clean room, private bathroom and peace and quite from other noisy travellers (so call us anti social if you like!!)

We spent our first day in Fukuoka accustomising ourselves with the Japanese way of life. Although there’s not many ‘touristy’ things to do here it’s still an interesting place and a great city to visit. We were both amazed at how friendly the locals were and loved hearing their shouts of ‘irashaimasse’ (meaning welcome) and seeing them constantly bow at us each time we entered a shop or restaurant.

If you want to see the Japanese at their politest then simply visit one of the many department stores located in Fukuoka. As you enter, two young bowing women will greet you and then as you walk around from department to department you will encounter constant bowing and excited screams of ‘irashaimasse’. At any one time you could find yourself with 4 or 5 different people bowing at you. The best response is simply to smile at every one of them.

Speaking of Japanese department stores – they are a great thing to see. It was here we first discovered how ridiculously expensive fruits and vegetables in Japan can be. Some of the most extravagant examples included – 1 mango for 100 pounds, 1 melon for 45 pounds and 5 peaches for 60 pounds. Besides these extreme prices the food section, always located in the basement, sells an absolutely amazing array of items ranging from really intricate salads through to sushi. The prices in general (as long as you avoid the fruit and veg) are actually very affordable and a great place for backpackers to grab a scrumptious meal.

Another thing that caught both of our attentions was the extremely high sense of fashion from the people in this city. Every female under the age of sixty seemed to be wearing the shortest skirts imaginable coupled with tights and very high and impractical heels. All the men in sight were also immaculately groomed and looked like they’d just finished a Calvin Klein fashion shoot.

Fukuoka was also the place that we first noticed how eccentric the Japanese are.  No longer did we have to deal with filthy Chinese style squat toilets, instead we were treated to heated toilet seats, buttons offering washing options such as ‘gentle frontal clean’ and automatic music used to hide any potential embarrassing noises you might make while doing your business.

The men in Fukuoka seem to have a slight obsession with prostitutes (or hostesses as they sometimes claim to be). The Tenjin area of the city is full of brothels and magazines advertising the different packages available complete with a picture of each woman and the price of her services. At nighttime the streets are filled with touts trying to drag men into one ‘club’ or another. Although prostitution is illegal in Japan the police are quite happy to turn a blind eye or maybe it’s just a way of keeping the peace, as it’s openly known that these establishments are owned and run by the local mafia.

The highlight for us in Fukuoka however wasn’t the women and their ‘special services’ but instead the ramen noodles that the city is famous for. We ate several times at Ichiran, a Fukuokan institution. Here, like with many things in Japan, you pay first from a vending machine. You then sit in your own private booth and fill out a form specifying what strength and flavour you want for each of the ingredients. Your  food arrives in front of you where a curtain is then pulled down giving you complete privacy. A great filling meal. We also discovered the food chains ‘Mos Burger’ and ‘Tully’s Coffee’ here, which were soon to become our favourite hangouts. What a brilliant start to a brilliant country!!!! Shannyn