Chengdu Panda Research Base... The Massive Panda Pie

Today it was an early start, up before 7, which took some effort it must be said. But it was all going to be worth it, because we were going to the Chengdu Base For Giant Panda Research and Breeding. Our driver didn't speak any english, and we struggled to understand his chinese, so we sacked off any attempts to practice panda vocab on him. It was only a short 20 minute drive, and we were in the reserve soon after 8. Straightaway we headed down the winding paths, lined with forests of bamboo either side, to one of the adult giant panda enclosures. As we walked up the steps, we caught our first sight of this rare animal. The enclosure was pretty impressive, even more so when you consider the normal enclosures that you encounter throughout China. As we watched, the panda made his way over towards us, and sat down just a few feet away and began demolishing bamboo. Giant pandas have been around for some 8million years, and did used to eat meat, and be aggressive animals. But over time, they have changed, and become docile, lazy creatures who feast on bamboo. With bamboo being so full of fibre, they only retain 20% of it, with the rest being excreted, meaning they have to eat a lot, and quickly. We moved on, stopping to see the red pandas, so much smaller than their larger cousins, and more racoon like in appearance. And, a lot more active it must be said. At the sub adult closure, there was a list of pandas that had been namedand adopted by various companies and embassies. All had been given Chinese names, with the exception of two that had been adopted by Microsoft. These poor bastards had been called Microsoft and Unlimited Potential. This was only the first sign that there was a massive panda pie up for grabs to anyone who wanted some. As we made our way towards the cub enclosure and the sub adult one next to it, i stopped one of the workers to ask them in my rather dubious chinese 'carry panda, where?' Which they somehow understood. It was 400Y with an adult panda, or a massive 1000Y to hold a panda cub. Although i wanted to do it, i couldn't help but think that 'fuck me thats a lot of beers'. As we watched 7 panda cubs playing in their enclosure, playfighting, climbing, rolling around and lounging on swings, i began to justify the cost. Sort of. It had to be worth doing, a once in a lifetime opportunity. And the money was essentially a donation to the research being undertaken at the base. We spoke to one of the staff who over saw this part of the centre, and was told that it was actually 500Y not 400Y for the adult panda, and that if i wanted to told a panda cub, it would be for a minute, no more, that no one other than staff were allowed in, and that a member of their team would take 2 photos with my camera for me. Suddenly it wasn't so appealing, especially as i watched others hand over their bundle of 100Y notes to our driver not staff. Clearly, he was getting a slice of the panda pie. In spite of this, i still opted to pay the 500Y for photos with an adult panda. This wasn't done behind closed doors, so Rob was able to take photos, as well as a member of staff who was closer. To be so close to such an animal was pretty special, able to rest my head on its as it munched on some bamboo. Hardly life changing, but still something i won't forget. We were then led by our driver back towards the car, or so we thought. Instead we stopped at the Panda Coffee House for a short film about the work being done at the base, and offered drinks. Another moneyspinner. Then we went to the museum (i use the term loosely), complete with preserved panda babies in jars, ranging from 1 week old up to 3 months. Really nice. Then on the way out it was that staple of all museums, the gift shop. And just for good measure, a survey. I refrained from spending anymore money, even on cuddly soft giant panda toys. Finally we left and walked back to the car, our driver in deep conversation with another member of the wide reaching Panda Mafia, no doubt discussing their income and plans for the night. We put on our cynical hats on the return journey, and discussed the Panda Mafia, the massive panda pie, and those who get a slice of it, namely anyome Chinese who steps through the entrance. Our driver even had the panda equivalent of the grim reaper on his dashboard. Our cynicism was to the last the rest of the day, anything and everything being met with barely controlled skepticism from the both of us...