The Secret Life of Us - the beach suburb of St Kilda

Melbourne is boom city.

As I travelled down the St Kilda road today on a rattling tram the skyscrapers that flanked it looked new and impressive. There is money here in Melbourne. Roads that had low key 20th century buildings recently find themselves squeezed between skyscrapers. Any institution here in Melbourne whether they be Victorian, Edwardian or Art Deco now finds itself squeezed between the glass domes and atriums of modern skyscrapers. Australia seems such a new country sometimes - it occasionally seems that the wrapper was taken off only yesterday.

St Kilda in early spring with its cloudy sky and nibbling chill had a satisfying feeling of melancholy about it.

Its also considered one of the worlds most liveable cities. It tops the charts on public transport, childcare, real estate costs and that pernicious argument "quality of life" (you make your own in my experience). I think if I came from a wet mining town in Yorkshire this would be paradise. But I am a European romantic - I like my narrow lanes and corner pubs, my hidden cathedrals and city walls. The problem probably lies with me and my expectations rather then Melbourne.

But I do like it and was to see one of its more charming corners today. I used to love that imported Australian series "The Secret Life of Us" back in the nineties and St Kilda was where it was set. I have a weakness for Bohemian corners of cities ie Islington in London, Travestevere in Rome or Santa Theresa in Rio. And this is Melbourne's.

But it is a good city.When I waited for the tram at Federation Square a uniformed "greeter" was there to tell me which tram to catch.The people on board told me how to stamp my ticket and so we clanked for ten minutes, past the Shrine of Remembrance and the Kings Domain until we pulled into Fitzroy Street which leads down to the beaches. Fitzroy Street is very trendy, an old train station has been turned into a noodle bar (the food is good in Australia). You could feel money was being pumped into the area. It was early in the morning in a beach resort out of season (Buzios and the Venice Lido all over again?). But I got a feel for the place. Fitzroy Street has hostels, cafes, restaurants and bookshops stretching down to the sea. But it does have a seedy edge - strange characters appear at night. Backpackers and drunks spill out of the racuous clubs and pubs. The during the day off season it was the epitome of calm.

I had a delicious bacon on toast at a nearby cafe then down to the esplanade and Port Phillip bay.The esplanade followed the curve of the bay where small sandy beaches led down to the water. From where I stood I could see a breakwater/pier which extended into the bay and housed a yacht marina. At the start of the pier is a wooden gate entrance in cream coloured wood dating from 1921. The view from the pier towards Melbourne and the CBD and its skyscrapers were gorgeous.

So I spent the rest of the day walking the esplanade and resting in cafes. St Kilda in early spring with its cloudy skill and nibbling chill had that little touch of melancholy about it. There was life even at this time of the year. The beaches were empy and were small with strewn seaweed. But there were people out jogging and walking their dogs. One man saw me taking pictures of the bay and engaged me in conversation.How did I find Melbourne? Did I like their cafe culture? Have I tried their wines? They are obviously proud of their city and there is nothing wrong with that. Its a commendable attribute. And it is good that they have the friendliness to chat with complete strangers.

After getting the tram and train back to South Yarra I thought I would check out the Melbournian gay scene. One of the reasons I picked South Yarra was that it was close to Commercial Street. So about nine o'clock I set off. There seems to be a small gay village down there but it seems in retreat. There were only a couple of bars including the Xchange hotel. As soon as I walked in people spoke to me. I thought this was refreshing and friendly but as the night progressed I realised I was "new blood" and was seriously hit on.

Perhaps a little TOO friendly?