Hills, Hills and more Hills

Still Thursday 19/2

All those readers who cruelly hoped our luggage was still in LA or in the care of St. Elswhere - sorry to disappoint you! Owners and Luggage reunited, although both looked a little worse for wear - baggage and owners - we headed out of the airport to find our transport from the airport to our B&B.

Welcome to San Francisco!!

We were dropped off at our B&B and our first impressions were "**** *** the right place?" (joke). Seriously, we did wonder if the driver had the address wrong - where was the B&B - we couldn't see it. It was nestled between on the one side a restaurant/bar and on the other a pub. The front-door was set back which is why it couldn't be seen. But it was definitely the right address - GULP! Heart in mouth experience - should we ask the driver to wait and take us somewhere else??

We pressed the intercom, and the door opened for us and we were met by a staircase that lloked like Everest (or at least like one of the hills that San Francisco sits upon). Between us we carried the luggae up to the landing (hoping that was our floor and not the one above with more stairs to climb). We had a system, wherby one of us carried the luggage in, while the other stayed on the street with the rest of the luggage - watching it carefully! Once we were all inside, we were shown to our room - on this floor (phew!) and although there was no stunning view - the room was more than adequate, and the B&B, we have to say, was first-rate - the staff extremely friendly and helpful, nothing too much trouble, the breakfasts were amazing, and cocktail hour 6pm-7pm every evening - well it meant you met other guests and we all had a story to tell - we would certainly stay there again!

It was about 1.30pm and with not having had any sleep - it was decided that we shoul simply leave the luggage untouched, and try and get some sleep. We didn't need to try (he says laughingly), we slept solidly for a good 4 hours, and woke in time for the cocktail hour. We chatted with the Inn-Keeper on duty and we given the low-down on the area and beyond. And then we headed off for dinner to Chow's on Church Street (see review). After dinner we sampled one or two of the local whiskeys (borbon), and feeling tired (and mellow) we retired for a good nights sleep and in a bed (not an aeroplane seat).

Friday 20/2

We surfaced by noon (horrid jetlag) and after a light breakfast and some planning of our day we were on our way to Sausalito, catching the 2pm ferry from the Ferry Terminal at the bottom of Market Street (using the underground tram the MUNI).

The crossing (tickets not to expensive - and can be bought as single or return) to Sausalito is no more than 20 minutes with good views across the Bay of San Francisco of Sausalito, of Alcatraz Island, of the Golden Gate Bridge and of Oakland.

Once on Sausalito, we walked along the front. It wasn;t that warm, and neither of us particularly dressed for the cooler temperatures. However, we continued our walk, and eventually came to two restaraunts, both of which Andrew had been to on previous visits to Sausalito, one called....which we didn;t go to - quite exclusive and pricey, whilst the other, 'Horizons' was in a very nice setting on the sea wall, with views across the Bay looking towards San Francisco. Our meal here was again of large quantity and well presented - delicious (see review - to follow)

After lunch, we wondered around the bijou shops, and still it got cooler - I succumbed and bought a fleece - a bit more wondering along the parade of shops and we came across a very nice handmade gift shop and among the items on sale were many various designs and concepts of kaleidoscopes - the prices too were many and varied! We went for a coffee to Starbucks (where Andrew became Angelo - long story) and whilst we decided whether or not Andrew could live with or without a kaleidoscope. The coffee that Angelo was drinking must have had something in it, because we were soon parting with our US$ for a rather nice but modest kaleidoscope. It was now dusk and beginning to rain, and having bought a single ticket for the ferry it meant we could choose our mode of transport back to San Francisco - so we opted for the bus. This took us over the Golden Gate Bridge and back to San Francisco. From the bus we jumped on the underground MUNI and headed back to the B&B.  For dinner we didn't venture far as it was a wet night. We stepped outside the front door of the B&B, crossed the road, and went to Home Diner - sadly this was not a good choice - and not a place we would choose to recommend or visit again - and by the way avoid 'collared greens' at all costs - the taste reminded Andrew of the smell of silage - and the taste was worse x10 (says me). Everything dripped in butter or was salted beyond what was reasonable to us, but obviously appealed to the local palate - apart from all the aforementioned - the noise was unbelievable, and you couldn't have a conversation without raising your voice to be heard. So to the B&B and to bed still jet lagged.

Saturday 21/2

Up and about relatively early, we had a good breakfast at the B&B, and we planned our day. It was showery with the forecast suggesting a better day ahead. We got ourslves organised and headed off on foot to Mission Dolores (see review).

We walked back to the street tram stop and caught the tram to Powell Street. Here we bought tickets for the cable car - we were off to Fisherman's Wharf! (See review). We will talk a little later about the street tram and cable car.

At the end of our visit to Fisherman's Wharf, we jumped on the Cable Car and headed for town, getting off back at Powell Street Terminus.  We dived into Walgreens (a larger version of Superdrug - although nothing like it really) for some toiletries, and then when we stepped outside a crowd had formed around a man with his three pets a dog curled up asleep on a blanket; across the dogs shoulders a cat also asleep; and across the cats neck - a white rat - also asleep (see photographs). It was a lovely scene of contentment - and if this scene could be translated into humanity - the world would be a greatly improved place to live for peoples of all creeds, colours and conditions!

Back on the MUNI we headed to the B&B for cocktail hour and although it had finished, we must have looked desperate so we were handed a stiff G&T! We met one or two of the other guests and then off to our room to change for dinner. Dinner tonight was at Asqew's - a Tex-Mex place. Food was ok - but nothing to write home about! So we won't.

After dinner, we headed back to the B&B in the pouring rain - for an earlyish night - still jetlagged and now very wet.

Sunday 22/2

Disaster! Jetlag finally got the better of both of us - it was noon and the Mass at Mission Dolores had been and gone - as had the alarm on my mobile 'phone. The best I could offer the Lord today was Morning Prayer and an abject apology! One Sunday in 18 years where I've not managed Mass because of sleeping in isn't bad - I don't think!

A late breakfast, now brunch, we decided because of the awful rain (it was worse than rain at home, with 2" today) we decided on some RnR - well at least we would be dry. Hours later, laden with bags....now we are panicking as to how much our luggage may be overweight when we eventually head home - only kidding! Mind you, I still haven't managed to get to an Abercrombie and Fitch Store (Coppings take note - hope you are impressed that I remembered).  After our 'shop 'til you drop' diversion because of the weather, we headed back to the B&B for cocktails and then it was time for dinner.

Have you noticed a trend - eat, drink, shop, sleep...eat drink, shop, sleep.... yes we've noticed it too.

Dinner was a bit of a disaster. Still raining, we popped round the corner to a Mexican Diner - it was a bit spit and sawdust (the food) and the surroundings - well they wern't any better. 4/10 - 2 marks simply for being on the doorstep! Still raining, we had a drink in a local pub or two, and then headed back to the B&B for some sleep.

Monday 23/2

We seem to be jetlag free (at last). We were up at about 830 and so had our breakfast. After the ablutions were all done, we headed off for our final day in SF - today we were going to Alcatraz Island (see review).

Coming back to cable cars and street cars...see the review for cable cars.

Re: The street cars

San Francisco has a collection of wonderful old electric trams still in working use and which MUNI uses on the F-Line between Fisherman's Wharf and Castro. A MUNI pass allows you to hop on and off as often as you wish for more information and a history look at:

http://www.sfmta.com/cms/mfleet/histcars.php

To get to Alcatraz, we took the Underground MUNI to Embarcadero then one of the historic trams (not the fastest form of transport) to Pier 33 (note this - it wasn't immediately obvious to us or to many others). Costs included ferry crossing and return, visit to the island and penitentiary, audio tour (US$26/person). There are no cafe's etc on Alcatraz but you can get water. All food must be eaten on the ferry landing and before your visit commences. Part of the National Parks Department, we had an introductory talk from a Ranger before being let loose on the audio tour which was fine. It was 25 years since Andrew had last visited (don't think he was an inmate)...he said that although the audio tour was good and thorough - when he had visited 25 yrs ago it was small groups and much more hands on e.g. visitors could if they wished be locked in the segregation block cells!!! I think Andrew may have left me there...so probably aswell this has disappeared from visits in 2009!

We boarded the ferry for our return to SF and decided we would like to try some Dim Sum in Chinatown - we walked from the ferryport to Chinatown so were ready for something to eat. Unfortunately, the 'restaurant' (I use the word loosely) was not the best, but for US$6/person, and as much food as you could eat - what could you expect. The foods we tried we were familiar with - eating them regularly at home and elsewhere, however, these foods tasted nothing like what we were used to, and as for appearence -??? Quickly moving on!!!!

Leaving there, we walked through the streets of this area and came across a sort of Catholic Truth Society Bookshop - which turned out to be a shop in the crypt of the former, now old, Old S. Mary's and it was the Paulist Center! The Cathedral above had (you guessed it) closed for the day. It's main work seemed to be missions to the homeless and socio-economic problems of the population. Well we thought we would catch the bus to the Cathedral of Holy Virgin (see review) - and you guessed right agian - it was shut - and it was only 5.15pm - I simply couldn't understand this. At home most of our cathedrals have Sung Evensong or Vespers and so are open until at least 6.00pm-6.30pm.  Oh, well it wasn't to be. We walked back down the hill to Market Street and caught the tram back to Church Street.

I mentioned above the homeless. I think it is worth mentioning that there is a lot of good work going on across SF with the homeless and with those who maybe facing tis dreadful life. However, unlike home, where we are well aware of the existence of homeless people, somehow or other, it doesn't seem as overt in the UK. Here in SF, people literally are 'on the street' - e.g on the pavements where 'joe public' walk - so to paraphrase the Good Lord 'You always have the homeless with you' seems more striking - you can't deny their existence if they are so overtly present...and this I feel is a good thing....I watched many people giving the homeless money (and I do believe that in many cases it would buy a coffee or a sandwich)...although there is always the exception and the monies go to drugs or drink...as we were told by one of the volunteers at The Mission who discouraged the practice of giving money. For me the striking image of so many homeless against the backdrop of the thriving city which is a part of the so-called civilised USA and the most powerful nation on earth and dare I say most developed ..... yet it doesn't seem to have got to grips with its homeless people - or those with special needs. When I think of some of the people whom we all know at home in the UK with special needs both in the community and more personally, here in the USA, they would, without a shadow of a doubt, be on the streets - and they are vile places to be! Thank God for the albeit imperfect system we have at home....it does go some way to protecting the vulnerable.

Our last night in SF was spent packing and then dinner where it all began - Chow's - see our review. On returning to the B&B, after a stop off for an adult beverage, we completed our packing and set the alarm clock for 3am (yikes) wake up. It was about midnight now.

At 3am we woke...somehow Andrew managed to shower...I had showered the night before. We packed one or two last things and at 3.50am the taxi-van pulled up outside - and I think it was Mr Grumpy's American cousin - or is it a pre-requisite of the job? Soon we were on our way to the Airport (via one or two pickups who weren't ready - see Mr Grumpy fume!!!) and then we arrived at the Domestic terminal and we checked in our luggage - we were leaving CA, and soon we would be on our way to FL with a stop off in JR Ewing country (Texas) - though we wouldn't see oil or him...shame!!!!