Hammerhead vs Crocodile

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We had read just about every guidebook and internet link about this park. We had been back and forth discussing whether or not we should do it. Most information convinced us that this death march would see us battling crocodiles, ploughing through neck deep rivers that swarmed with hammerhead sharks, and clambering up jungle trees to avoid the savage jaguars. If we were so lucky as to make it to the camp after the almost impossible hike, we would be met with unwelcoming guides, expensive, inedible food, and a plethora of harmful bugs. The decision was made to not go. Then a very recent Rough Guide, borrowed from a visiting friend, described the hike as more of a gentle stroll along picturesque beaches, surrounded by splendid, frolicking wildlife, where you could camp on the beach. You could set up tent anywhere you felt like it along the way and peacefully marvel at the parks beauty and safety. Clearly marked paths would ease your walk, making it possible for even a child to do. Our decision wavered. We visited the park office in Puerto Jiménez hoping for some clarification. We didn’t come away with much, but had committed ourselves with what we thought were camping reservations at two of the park stations. It turned out that half the park had been shut down, so what we had, in fact, were two nights reservations at one park station. Not that they told us this at the park office though.

Skulls.
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After deciding that all guidebook information we had uncovered was, at most, third person information and that none of the authors had even so much as attempted the hike, we set off in defiance. In the back of the truck on the ride to the parks entrance, a few fellow adventurers and ourselves were able to piece together that it would be about an 6-8 hour, 16k hike to get from Carate to Sierena, where we could camp. We shared stories that alluded to the San Pedrillo trail being closed (the one that we had hoped to hike, up the coast to Drake Bay). By the end of the trip we had concluded that there were two equally influential reasons for this closure.

Jaguar tracks were in the sand all around us...

The flight crew.
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Reason number one: It seems that a large number of Columbian, err, “cigar boats”, sail up along this shore and when they bump into the coastguard a certain “cargo” is dumped into the ocean. Now, Matt and I couldn’t really see why this was such a route closing problem however, but the rangers uttered brave words about them scouring the coast and protecting us from the armed Columbians who were returning for their stash. Either that or the rangers just didn’t want any happy-go-lucky backpacker stumbling over their potential loot. Dammit.

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Reason number two: Reason number two makes me feel quite hardcore, considering that we had every intention of walking this trail. It also makes me feel quite grateful. Since the trail had been open to the public, the rangers were rescuing an average of 6 out of 10 hikers that attempted it. 6 out of 10!! Basically they didn’t like having to do this and so shutting the route was the only option. The only option, until you consider that the reason so many people needed to be rescued is because 99% of the hike is on the beach and through thick sand (if you have never hiked this type of hike, you don’t know what hell is). Truth be told, if the rangers worked on creating any type of trail at all, rather than watching TV and sleeping in their hammocks all day, then the route would be walkable and no rescues would be needed. Not that I am passing any judgments, of course.

the blue tent leaks...
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Ignore all guidebooks and park info. The truth about the hike through Corcovado National Park is as follows. There are no maps that make any sense, not ones that you can buy anywhere that is. Take the over-photocopied, pencil sketched map that the rangers will offer you. It looks like it was created by a visually challenged five year old, but it has a tide chart on the back that appears to be correct. Tides and daylight are really the only things you need to worry about. Oh, and the impossibly poorly marked trails. But not to fear, I am sure that your $8 daily park entry fee and $4 per person, per night camping charge is all going towards improving the trails….

Anteater.
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Firstly, we discovered half way through the hike that we had done it backwards (thanks for the heads-up and the Park “Information” Office), basically this meant that the second section of park, from Sirena to Los Patos, would be mostly up hill for us. So, bare in mind, when the San Pedrillo path is closed due to drug smuggling, you should walk from Los Patos to Sirena and then on to La Leona, and finally Carate. Information about taxis, buses and collectivos is hard to come by and when you do, it mostly appears to be wrong.

I had read a few times that the beach hiking is hard. The word hard here is a gross understatement. I would like to make all these authors walk for two hours in the blistering sun, on deep soft, sinking sand and then create for me a paper describing the word hard. That said, once you have passed the La Leona station, it is said that you shouldn’t need to spend more than about 15 minutes walking on the beach. Unfortunately for us, we lost the trail and ended up doing a few hours of beach slug. Great for the thighs. The walk is beautiful and although I am sure that the park is awash with nature, we felt as though we had seen more in other areas of Costa Rica. No complaints though. Huge blue morpho butterflies floated around our heads, macaws screeched in the tree tops, bugs and spiders the size of my fist crawled about the undergrowth and we even had a run in with a few cotamundi’s and lesser anteaters. Jaguar tracks were in the sand all around us, often muddling themselves with tapir pawprints.

There are rivers to cross on this hike, and they are pretty nasty at high tide. Make sure to get a tide chart and work out the best time to cross. There is also a section of beach that has to be walked on, there is no jungle trail here and the backdrop is a vertical cliff. Getting stuck in this spot at high tide could be challenging or even rather deadly. A friend of ours got smashed by the first wave of high tide here, whilst walking back. He finished the hike alive but soaked to the skin.

The beaches stretch for miles and miles here, a beautiful sight until you realize that you have to walk them. Ocean swimming is not recommended however, to say the least. Hammerhead sharks patrol the waters and strong rips wait to drag you out. Certainly not worth the cooling dip.

Camping at the ranger station was not the most comfortable situation, although we didn’t help ourselves, having rented the worst tent ever constructed and not even thinking to bring pads to sleep on. Our food supply consisted of bread, nuts, cookies, and candy. After 3 days, this gets tedious. Meals are served here, by reluctant rangers, although they insist that you reserve months in advance. Every person we spoke with had reserved, confirmed their reservation, then turned up to be told they had none. I wouldn’t rely on much.

There is the option of flying into and out of the park. Tiny grass airstrips make the trip an adventure of its own and we decided to take the opportunity to fly back to Puerto Jiménez. We split the cost of the flight with a lovely German couple we met at Sirena, with whom we had spent the last couple of nights (one of which had been my birthday) just craving a nice cold beer. Needless to say, when we had to touchdown in Carate, half way though our 10 minute flight, we were quick to hunt out the tiny Soda stand and share a few beers on the beach whilst waiting for our plane to return. This stopover is not a regular occurrence. Bad weather moving into the region meant the pilot had to hurriedly lift out another pack of hikers to make sure they didn’t get trapped. The flight was also initially about 2 hours late. A pregnant woman, having difficulty with her delivery, had to be rushed to hospital and the plane was the only option. This was either a fantastically dramatic day, or the best flight delay excuse I’ve ever heard!

After the initial confusions over the conditions and possibilities of the hike, we found the trip to be enjoyable, a challenge but not impossible. Being prepared is a must and be sure to check the tides, time of sunset, distances and make camping reservations. Having one water bottle is adequate as there are plenty of places to fill up along the way. You’ll need a flash light more than once, so make sure yours is reliable and fully charged. Good walking shoes are imperative, watching a hiking companions cheap replacements of his stolen boots, fall to pieces along the way, was painful. Deet is a must as well. Ticks and billions of other pests are rampant here and we’ve found high concentrated Deet to be the only thing that keeps them at bay.

I was amazed at the amount of people we saw in the park, most of them boated in by tour groups and spending just a day in the park, but nonetheless, there were certainly more human faces than animal ones. If you are expecting a jungle wilderness, this is close but not quite as desolate as you might desire.

-Kate Coats