Copacabana

Scott at the border crossing from Peru to Bolivia
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DAY 28, 31 DECEMBER 2007

We woke up on time and did our final pack before heading downstairs to checkout and have some breakfast.  The transfer from the hotel was right on time; the cab also contained a young couple from Melbourne who are also students.  We got to the bus terminal and tried to board the bus, but were briskly redirected by an armed security guard to the departure tax counter to pay our 2 Soles tax, then we were allowed to board.  Not everyone had to do this, but we aren't ones to argue with someone who is carrying a gun.

The Cathedral in Copacabana
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The bus trip was largely uneventful and we sometimes followed the shores of Lake Titicaca.  You get some perspective on how huge the lake is, plus how much it is used by the locals for irrigation, fishing, transport etc.

We were given plenty of instructions in English in ample time about the border formalities between Peru and Bolivia; kudos to the bus company Colectur.

The border itself was actually a small marker on the road and there were lots of people wandering back and forth lugging all sorts of stuff - apparently there is a big black market between Bolivia and Peru and Bolivia is heaps cheaper.  We crossed into Bolivia with no problems and managed to change some money into the local currency which we call BOBs.

Tracy atop the hill overlooking Copacabana
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Eight kilometres from the border, we arrived at Copacabana and easily found our hotel.  When we arrived Scott asked if they had our reservation; the negative reply did not bode well.  When Tracy mentioned that we had telephoned yesterday, something must have clicked and magically our reservation appeared.  The first room we looked as was positively grungy, so we changed rooms to a twin room upstairs which is a little larger, brighter and less noisy.

We did a small unpack then decided to have a wander around the main street and also booked bus tickets to La Paz and a tour of Isla de la Sol.  There are plenty of cafes, on the main strip and along the lakes edge which all serve the same menu at about the same price - bit like deja vu.  We needed to have some lunch but as there were very few people eating in the lakeside stalls - not surprising when you saw all the rubbish and smelt it, so we decided to head up the main street again where we had a tasty and very cheap meal in a small garden restaurant.

One of the local boats on a beach at Isla del Sol
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We then visited the local cathedral which is at the top of the town.  Like the other RC churches we have been to so far, this one is massive with art work everywhere, all dominated by a massive gold and silver alter.  Outside the cathedral were lots of highly decorated cars getting ready for a blessing.

We headed back to the hotel and did some washing before packing the day pack and putting on hats and sunscreen to head up to the lookout at the top of the local hill which was a very steep climb.  We also booked dinner at La Cupola restaurant on the way, the restaurant overlooks the city and the bay, luckily we ignored the street or should I say llama trail to the hotel which appeared to be a rubbish tip as well, so glad we aren't staying here as it would be almost impossible to lug any luggage here.

Scott on the trail to the Temple del Sol on Isla del Sol
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At the top of the extremely breathless climb, there were views of Copacabana and surrounding areas and this included the 14 stations of the cross.

We headed back down the streets and got ready for dinner, donning nice clean clothes.  We wandered up to La Cupola taking photos of the town at sunset etc.  The meal and drinks was very nice, very rich after what we have been used too.  There was a small electrical problem that one of the guys tried to fix with gardening gloves and pliers.  We wandered back to the hotel the long way and retired to the sounds of fireworks, which were no way as bad as Bundi last year.

Another day, another Incan ruin
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DAY 29, 1 JANUARY 2008

Well another year starts, although this one started very badly for us.  I forgot to put the clock forward yesterday as Bolivia is one hour ahead of Peru, so the alarm went off and we raced out of bed to get to the dock to find the boat wasn't there for another hour.  We headed back to the hotel to get more organised and dose Scott up on cold and flue tablets.  We had a take 2 and made it to the dock on time.

The tour company proceeded to literally pile as many people on the boat as possible and we finally pulled out of the dock at 0845am.  We decided to sit upstairs as it was a safer option, after all if we started to sink, we could at least swim to shore.  It was a slow and cold trip to Isla del Sol and the town of Challapampa. There wasn't much to see as the islands appeared to be uninhabited, although the water was crystal clear and you could see the bottom in places.

Tracy on the way back to Challapampa on the Isla del Sol
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The rain clouds looked like they would hold off, so we took the hour hike out to Templo del Sol where we saw the ruins and the ceremonial site.  We think we saw the Sacred Rock, but this must rate as pretty crap so far in the ruins stake.

We took a slower walk back as the views of the bays and scenery is really stunning.  The walk was interesting as it took you through the countryside with lots of terraced crops and tiny brick houses, with only one room at the most, all with livestock just outside the front door.  The walk was along the cliffs past the beach.  The sand is brilliant white, reminds you of the Caribbean, with colourful row boats except you are in a lake which is fresh water.  One thing that struck us was the number of dung beetles here which obviously leads to noticeable lack of flies.

Our bus with our luggage but not us. Thankfully all turned out well in the end.
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Once back at Challapampa we had a coffee before getting back on the boat to go to the next port of Yumani.  Where we cant be arsed to walk up another zillion steps to see a pile of rocks, so we sat on the law near the beach and watched the world go by.  Finally the time came to reboard the boat for an uneventful passage across the lake, back to Copacabana.

Back at the hotel for short nanna naps and showers before hitting the streets to find a place for dinner.  It was just starting to rain, so we chose a little Bohemian diner, where we didn't like the menu and it appeared service as virtually non existent.  We left there looking for something better, as the rain started coming down harder.  We settled on another place; which had two groups of locals having a very social evening.  Sitting at our table for a while with no signs of a waiter, we collected our own menus, just as the owner or bar man or chef or waiter shuffled back in through the front door with a crate of beer for the revellers.  Eventually the man took our orders and we waited for another 30 minutes or longer to be presented with our meals.  Tracys dinner was okay except it contained oranges.  Scotts chicken could be snapped, it was extremely overcooked, and cold.  Thoroughly dissatisfied with dinner we shuffled back to the hotel for an early night, but at least it wasn't raining on the way home.

Our first view of La Paz
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DAY 30 - 2 JANUARY 2008

Well we had a lazy start to the day and wandered into town for breakfast and a look through the market stalls near the Cathedral, buying handkerchiefs for Scott and water and papas fritas.  At the Cathedral there were again lots of cars all covered in flowers and money, small gifts etc and loads of firecrackers being set off.  The proud owners of the vehicles then sprayed the cars with alcohol, finishing off the contents themselves.  A priest came and blessed the cars before the occupants piled in and drove off with horns blaring, all dosed up on boose - this is some sort of blessing ceremony.  I think the pedestrians are the ones that need the blessing.

Giving the car a good wash in champagne
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We headed to the bus counter to find out there may be or may not be a bus to La Paz due to some sort of road blockade (not really sure as everybody is giving or getting a different story), so we headed to the main bus counter and waited along with everyone else.  Eventually being told there would be no buses to La Paz today.  So we decided to get a room and headed with a group of other travellers to check out a small hostal which was very hectic so we headed to the next hotel called Los Andes and looked at a nice clean room with a balcony and spotless shower, so we took it.

We walked back into town and used the internet and just wandered around aimlessly killing time.

We found a really nice small restaurant and SB shared a fantastic pizza with me.  It started to rain and rain and rain, washing the rubbish down to the seashore.

We retired early as we have done everything there is in Copa and just want to leave.  The shower in the hotel thought is the best we have had since arriving in South America.