Andean Condors at Colca Canyon

January 22-23

(Amber)

We got up at 6:00am yesterday and hopped on a small van to the Colca Canyon. On the way out of town, we learned a bit more about Peru and Arequipa.

Arequipa has a population of about 675,000. It experiences very frequent earthquakes, and you can see the damage you see along the roads. But the locals know how to gauge the quake and vary their responses accordingly. Arequipa also sits in the shadow of several huge volcanoes, the Misti, the Chachani and the Pichupichu, and has only one road that could act as an escape route. So this ancient city´s position on the globe is a bit precarious.

We went with a group of about 11 others, including four Germans, two other Americans, a girl from Sweden, a guy from New Zealand, two from Australia, and one woman from Spain. Again, it´s not our pick to go in groups--we go to great lengths to avoid them most times--but it was really the only way we could make it to the Colca Canyon in time to see some Condors (if we were lucky) and get back to Cusco to take on the Inca Trail on the 25th. Our guide was a local Quechua woman named Judy, and she was great.

Scenery on the drive was amazing. See photos below. You can tell how many changes we saw in the ¨high¨Andes.

We were lucky enough to see many wild vicuñas at 3800 meters above sea level on the altiplano. Quick lesson on cameloids, since Peru has so many. They are descendants of camels and are believed to have crossed the Bering Strait and made their way to South America. There are four types - alpacas and llamas, which are widely domesticated in Peru, and vicuñas and guanacos, which are more often wild. So it was fantastic to see so many vicuñas living in the wild.

Cool facts - quiz to come.....

• there are 2 million alpacas and 1 million llamas in Peru
• all cameloids can survive 10 days or more without water
• best fiber is from vicuñas, which can cost about $600 per kilo and is exported from Peru to Italy
• to tell llamas and alpacas apart - llamas are more arrogant with their ears and tails up
• a llama is a pack animal in Peru, often used to carry supplies for barter between villages - if you put one kilo more then 35 on its back, it will lay down and refuse to move - try to make it move, and it will spit at you
• alpacas are mainly for meat (lean, tasty, and no cholesterol), leather, and wool (we ate some alpaca meat, and it was quite tender)

On the way, in addition to the vicuñas, llamas, and alpacas that covered the landscape, we also saw bright red flamingos in lakes. The Peruvian flag (red and white) was actually designed based on the colors of the Andean flamingo.

We also passed ancient burial sites, caves with paintings that are estimated to be from 6000BC, and many volcanoes. The highest point in the trip was 4800 meters, so we all chewed coca leaves and ash. This is an ancient tradition that is used throughout this part of South America to prevent and alleviate the symptoms of altitude sickness. Along the way, we stopped for coca tea and coca leaves. Notably, no one got sick.

During one stop, I went to use the ¨ladies room¨ behind some rocks and a large rodent with a curly rail that hopped like a cross between a rabbit and a kangaroo. After it scurried away, I found out that it was a viscacha. We continued to see these around Colca Canyon. I also found out later than the piles of rocks that acted as my shield from the road were actually offerings to the Pacha Mama, or Mother Earth, by the indigenous people of the altiplano. The tradition dates back to Pre-Incan times. You can see these in the photographs below.

We arrived in Chivay and did some light hiking in the mountains around town, including a visit to a Pre-Incan ceremonial site that is still used today. We then soaked in some steaming hot natural springs nearby. All very relaxing.

Matt was battling annoying stomach issues all day, and by the time we checked into our room (by far the nastiest yet - stinky with green mold on the walls and ceiling), he got REALLY sick. So I walked through the village, found a farmacia and bought him meds. My Spanish class must have paid off, because I did it with relative ease. I got home, medicated him, and went out to dinner with the group. Matt stayed in bed the rest of the night.

Now, the hunger strike ended briefly in Arequipa when we found an amazing wood-fired pizza restaurant. The photo of the oven is first in series. But food is still a bit of an issue. I´m not wanting to eat much. I WANT to, but my body is fighting me. You´ll see my meals....which included stuffed peppers and alpaca and ¨lomo saltado¨ among other things. Both plates were perfectly fine, but my system isn´t entirely on the wagon yet...it will be. I hope.

We woke up at 5:30 this morning to start the trip to Colca Canyon, where we HOPED to spot wild Andean condors. Andean condors are the largest of their type. They are scavengers, weigh about 12 kilos, and have wing spans topping 10 feet. They are majestic creatures, and we really wanted to spot one.

Matt was a bit better, thanks to the sleep and meds, but weak from no food. But he was excited about seeing the canyon (which is apparently the second deepest in the world behind another Peruvian canyon) and possibly seeing a condor. So he rallied.

After a breathtaking drive, we arrived at an overlook. After a couple of hours of patiently watching, we SAW CONDORS! The photos do them zero justice, but you can see...by comparing them to the people on the overlook point...that they are huge. Seeing them fly...alongside the mind-boggling canyon, complete with rivers, waterfalls, and Pre-Incan terracing......made the early mornings and queasy stomachs so totally worth it.

We head to Cusco tomorrow and prepare for our assault on the Inca Trail. I´m excited but a bit apprehensive. The ancient trail is 33km (not too far) but takes you over 3 mountain passes (actually...you have to take yourself) and climbs up to 4200 meters (which is 13,779 feet) before arriving at Maccu Piccu. It´s 4 days total. We´ll sleep and eat on the trail.

So be thinking of our tired legs and queasy stomachs. And we´ll write more from the other side. Here are our recent pictures:

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