Preikestolen hike

This is not the Lysefjord
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My stay in Stavanger was all about the Preikestolen hike. Off season, so the usual buses identified in my guide book were not running. Instead I had to take the ferry to Tau, a bus to Jorpeland, and then a taxi to the Youth Hostel at the base of the trail. Sounds complex, but was actually quite smooth.

Everyone I talked to about my plans responded with,

"What! You're going by yourself?"

This became a bit disconcerting after the 10th repetition, but I felt like I knew exactly what I was getting into, so wasn't (too) worried.  The friendlier construction-worker types (I had to borrow a phone to call a cab for the taxi part of the journey) even volunteered to go with me. This was a joke, luckily.  Though, it was clear that there was a strong, but low-key sense of pride in the area. They'd all done the hike many times. They all thought it was spectacular and genuinely hoped I would, too.

Almost back down
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Especially the taxi driver, who'd been up several times. When we reached the base of the trail (about 20 min. 130kr or so), there's a lovely bit of water, and I asked if this was a part of the Lysefjord. He got a cat-swallowed-canary sort of look on his face: "This is not the Lysefjord. You'll know". Implicit in his tone: "It'll knock your socks off".

So away I went. Looking forward to getting my socks knocked off. I asked the taxi driver to pick me up in 4.5 hours, adding a "please, please don't forget" for good measure.  Bit remote out here, this time of year.

Follow the red "T" markers
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And the actual hike? Challenging, but not too challenging. The trail is in very good condition, but wear good hiking boots and watch your step. The scenery starts out as wonderful, and abruptly turns into all-out spectacular. From a regular sort of trail for the first hour: along rocky paths and gnarly roots, across a marsh plain, and up a steep, old water route, you round a corner and then the bottom drops out of the world.

Looking ahead, there was a deep valley, filled with autumn-gold trees. A large waterfall cut deeply through the field of view, redundantly beautiful. Further to the south was the utterly amazing, goose-bump-giving, first glimpse of the Lysefjord.  I was deeply affected by the sudden, awe-inspiring view.  It was like opening your eyes and seeing, really seeing, how beautiful the world can be. But not just for a moment, it was an enormous sweeping view.

Kroggebaekmyrang - marsh plateau at 1.5km
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The second hour of the hike is actually much easier physically. Mentally? Challenging. For me, anyway. Turns out that hiking along really high cliff trails is my version of Fear Factor.  This wasn't actually news to me, but I had only thought it wouldn't come into play until I reached the rock platform.  I hadn't considered that I might also have to spend, oh say, 30 minutes hiking along a pretty spectacular precipice. A bit of adrenalin to really spice up the experience.

Kroggebaekmyrang - marsh plateau path at 1.5 km
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At some points, like where great expanses of barren rock rolled down in all directions, I became a little anxious about missing a trail marker. Possible, but unlikely. The trail is really well-marked. Sure, I obsessively kept track of those painted red "T"s, but it wasn't too hard to keep going. This is a very popular path that thousands of people hike each year. (I kept telling myself this). Though, I would take extra care in rain, fog or snow.

As it was the wind did not help.  At one point I actually dropped to my knees and crouched down, coat flapping crazily. Couldn't help but thinking about how I had just gone skydiving a few weeks earlier. The parallels were clear, and 600m was actually higher than our jump height. But it was really the no parachute part that kept me away from the edge. It made my knees wobble.

In case I forgot what I was getting myself into
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In total I saw a maybe 10 people on the trail.  5 were already exploring the rock when I reached it. Yup, the last 5 minutes were difficult. The trail narrows quite a bit when the distinctive jutting rock comes into view. I had to stop a few times, and sit down. It was the only way I could enjoy the view without the vertigo.

Interestingly, it's actually a relief to arrive at Pulpit's Rock. The platform is large (25m squared), and slopes up a bit toward the furthest edge.  I even felt comfortable walking to the edge here. Or maybe not. Very windy! So, like everyone else up there that day, I ended up crawling to the edge (cue impending sense of doom), and sticking my head over. 604m straight down.

Coming up to the steepest section
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Panic, vertigo, giddiness, euphoria. I loved it. But I could only work up the nerve to do it once. Still gives me the willies just thinking about it.  There are only so many "can't miss" things in this world. Add Preikestolen to your list.

Links to some really cool photos that I didn't take

Here's a shot of where the upper path runs out (into a rock face wall, actually). You have to step down to follow that bit of green that wraps around the south face and takes you to Preikestolen. Can I reiterate how awfully exposed it was? Did I mention the frightful wind?  But, actually, as you get closer, you realize it's not as bad as it looks from a distance.

My view of the world is about to change
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And for the sure-footed hikers in the world, there are even more options. Like the tough 5-hour hike that starts at Lysebotn (that's the far end of the Lysefjord) and takes you 1000m above the fjord.

Here are some more pics by Gard Karlsen. Link and scroll down.

1. First one is a great shot of Pulpit's Rock from above. Uniquely geometric on a grand scale.
2. Keep scrolling to the second picture. You may want to stop here, and exclaim to your nearest neighbour, "never in a million years would you get me on that thing".

This is the Lysefjord
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This is the Kjerag bolten. Umm. Maybe next time.