Cape Horn & Beagle Channel

Our ship the Mare Australis and the last piece of luxury
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So after a long weekend in Ushuaia, toughing it out on steak and local beer we decided it was time to put to sea and explore the Beagle Channel.  Various options were available, but in true spirit of adventure we turned our back on the local fishing boats (where they pay you 100 pesos a day and all the mackerel you can eat) and instead we boarded the biggest "gin palace" we could find in the harbour. I think you have to try and experience both ends of the spectrum when abroad, and I'm pretty sure I know whcih end of the spectrum I like.

view from or cabin
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The MV Australis, our ship, was about the size of a small frigate, and fully kitted out with double bed cabins, enormous windows and  even bigger bars. We were joined on a our adventure by about 200 north americans, mainly elderly New Yorkers, who were seeing the extremes of the world from air conditioned and heated splendour, and good for them I say.

the gift shop at the end of the World.

Anyway there was no messing about on this ship, I´d hardly had time to down my third Pisco Sour, before we were being briefed on a early morning landing on Cape Horn. We would be departing the ship in rubber boats at 0700 and we're told to wrap up warm.

Arriving at cape horn & the tribute
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Cape Horn is an iconic place most mariners, a small island at the very bottom of South America, before the Suez Canal was built all shipping at to go around it get from the Atlantic to the Pacific and in the last 400 years over 900 ships have come a cropper on it. You´d have thought that after the first couple of hundred wrecks people would have started to give it a miss, but apparently not.

At 0700 on a morning in early November, the "Horn" as we mariners call it  (or was that the name for somerhing else..... I forget) was looking pretty grumpy, the wind was up and there was horizontal rain.  We few hardy souls who bumped over the sea in the rubber boats were rewarded with a stiff climb up a cliff face, only to be met by fierce winds and rain blowing off the Southern Ocean, and then a tramp through mud and bracken to the End of the World (reminded me of Rhyll). Having grabbed a few photos in the spirit of all great explorers we decided it was time to go to gift shop for some tea and postcards.

Chris trying to stand up - with the Cape in background. How wet was it !
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Yes, the gift shop at the end of the World, is nowhere sacred? Now I know how Scott felt when he saw the Norwegian flag flying over the South Pole, mind you it´s a hell of a commute for the shopkeeper. I bet he kicks himself when he forgets the milk.

Anayway, back to the MV Gin Palace for more Pisco Sour and a trip up the Beagle Channel, a loverly spot of water.  Snowy moutains and glaciars on both sides with clear blue water and the odd dolphin frollicking, as they do.

eat your heart out Kate Winslet
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Next stop Puerta Natales in Chile where it will be time to leave the comfy duvet behind and prepare ourselves for treking, meaning: carrying heavy packs over rough ground and sleeping in a tent, apparently people do it for fun.  We will see.