Kathmando it! - UPDATED WITH PHOTOS!
From The Big Journal in Kathmandu, Nepal on Feb 19 '07
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Kathmandu... Hmmm seems a long time ago now....
Will try keep this one brief as its warm outside and the surf is up.
I've seen a man dressed in a sheet coax a cobra out of a basket!
Arrived back in Kathmandu after another long bus journey. Got passed the touts to our hotel, which was clean and tidy and located right in the guts of the tourist ghetto, Thamel. We made our way straight to Pashputinath and Hindu temple to everyones favourite Hindu God, Shiva.
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There was a big local market on and we were the only westerners there. We got some strange looks and it was a wierd feeling not see anyone else with fair skin and blue eyes! As we got closer to the temple we started to get hassle off Babas (so called holy men) who wanted money from us, and 'guides''. We saw a Hindu funeral in progress as a wrapped up body smouldered on the banks of the river, whilst all around us Babas got off their heads on Opium, Hashish and other stuff. It was like being transported back to India! Our senses were being bombarded and we werent given any space to take anything in. There were also not that many women about, so we got out of there pretty quick.
The following days in Kathmandu were spent looking around Patan, an old district of the City where people still bashed out ironwork, weaved baskets and generally made all sorts of interesting stuff. Durbar Square Patan was a really interesting people watching place. Even the touts here were friendly, wore a smile and took no for an answer. We had a drink on a rooftop terrace overlooking the square and people watched some more. After drinks we wandered around the backstreets of Patan, slightly off the gora (foreigner) trail.
Next day we went to another historic part of the City. We got talking to some lovely local kids who stayed with us for about an hour. They seemed so nice, and we suspected a scam, but couldnt see where it may be coming from. Then they hit us with it - come and see our art school, where their "teacher"tried to sell us some of his work. We resisted then ate a cheap lunch of noodles atop a pagoda in another square and got away from the scams for a while. For those interested in architecture (just me) the pagodas were orginal to Nepal and the style exported to China where it became common. How interesting...
Our final stop of the tour of Kathmandu, was the main square - Durbar square. An amazing place which was home to more holy men, tea sellers, market stalls, games of cricket, pagodas and snake charmers!! We walked back through the lanes of Kathmandu back to Thamel (we were getting our bearings by now) did some shopping and watched a particularly feisty political demonstration from a safe distance! Whistl we were in Kathmandu, elections were being held and you could sense a little tension in the air.
We befriended a local street kid over the course of our time in the City. We resisted his begging every day, but one day, we were stuck for a cash machine and he helped us to find one. To show him our gratitude we took hime shopping for a few bits and pieces and the effect was really heartwarming. Nat gave him a big cuddle and he stuck his arm around me like he would one of his mates.
Nepal itself seems stable for the time being, but restless and we got the impression that its a place where things could change quite quickly. Which, I have to say made me feel a little nervous whilst we were in the Capital. The Countries future looks far from certain. They cant get a majority government, the place is wracked by corruption and the Maoists are using their own special methods to gain support. Its such a beautiful place, the people are amazing tough, friendly types, but you can see a bit of a bumpy ride ahead for them.
We were sorry to be leaving Asia, but looking forward to the second leg of trip and to a place that had been such an attraction for so long - Australia!
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