Off to the Sauvage
From Jeff & Cheryl's Oceania Adventure in Rangiroa, French Polynesia on Mar 27 '07
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Off to the remote Kia Ora Sauvage on the isolated other side of the lagoon! I think Sauvage means wild and savage in French. There are only 5 huts here, and a max of 10 guests on this motu. There were only 6 the first day, and 4 the next. It was a 1hr boat ride across the lagoon to the remote motu, and we became acquainted with Yann from Tahiti and his daughter. Yann turned out to be one of our best resources for information and communication. He was of heroic physique and proportions, and had a gentlemanly courteous manner to match. We had many talks with Yann at dinner and on the beach with Yann who was an entrepreneur in Fitness and Suppliments. He seemed to know many of the people at the hotel we noticed the night before.
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The motu was a classic deserted island, about 200 Yards across, with rustic huts with no power or air conditioning or even fan, and we used kerosene lamps in the evening Our host on the island Bernard was fantastic – a seasoned Frenchman who had sailed around the world and started hotels in places like Africa and BoraBora. Now spending his time looking after the tiny sauvage island and guests. So many great stories from Bernard. The generator which powers the desalination system on the motu had broken down. We met another guy from Nuku Hiva, who had the wonderful daughter Christine, had had been sent along to fix the generator.
Laid back on a small isolated island with no electric
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We also met a honeymoon couple from Arizona who were staying from the night before.
Unfortunately all the cool things Frank (the guy we rented the house in Bora Bora from) mentioned about his Sauvage trip were unavailable on our visit. There was no coconut crab hunting, because all the crabs had been whipped out by over hunting. I have seen photos of these strange giant crabs and was really looking forward to at least seeing if not tasting one. The surge was too high for lobster hunting, and since a tourist was injured they are not allowed to pull the sharks on shore any more.
Overall, the coral was pretty damaged near the hotel motu and most other places in the lagoon. And the beach was better than the Kia Ora, but still largely gravel and coral. Yann said the lagoon coral suffers worst with the lagoons heating up, and the coral outside the lagoon was doing much better (like we saw in our dive), but unfortunately the area outside the lagoon is not accessible for snorkeling due to savage surf (really scary waves). When we first attempted to explore the coral garden of sharp coral sticking out of the ocean, the surge was too high, and one big wave, like a mini tsunami came over the ridge of the island, with a flooding surge – and I hoped we would not be broken free of the sharp razor blade like coral, and ripped to shreds in the surge. Headed out of there right after that, to return the following day under better conditions.
We both started feeling a little stomach upset/diarrhea after we arrived, and this continued for days.
Saw lots of sharks around the island, but they’re very cool sharks just like all we saw, and never aggressive. The beach huts were well maintained and a cool design, with coral gravel floor in the bathroom, twisting lacquered tree branches and other natural materials.
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