yoga school and life in an indian city

Hello! I have now been in Chennai for the past few weeks and will be here for one week more. I am taking a month long course called “Universal yet Personal” at the Krishnamacharya Mandiram. Krishnamacharya (who is no longer in his body) was a teacher whose intention was to bring yoga to the level of each individual, and therefore, modifying postures and sequences to meet specific needs. His son and grandson are carrying on his traditions and making them accessible to the Western world. The classes we are taking have a strong therapeutic approach and I am learning a lot. There are 27 other foreigners in the class, mostly American and European. We are in school about 6 hours a day and have physical asana (posture) class, yoga theory, philosophy, therapeutic application, and meditation. This is the longest and most in-depth yoga studies course I have done in my time here and I am really appreciating the opportunity to integrate all of these classes and reflect on the various other things I have learned in the other places I have been. I have seen that there is no one particular way that yoga is taught here in India, each place I have been has had different styles and emphasis on different aspects of yogic postures and lifestyle. Particularly, I have really enjoyed learning about Indian philosophy and yoga philosophy (yoga is only one type of India philosophy) and I think my yoga practice, teaching, and personal life will greatly benefit from all that I have learned.

Since I am here for a month, I found a little apartment to live in. The apartment search was not easy (nothing here is!) and the school did little to help students find accommodation. The first apartment I saw was near yoga school, but was overpriced, had no kitchen, and had a pigeon flying around in it! Luckily, I met a rickshaw driver who knew an apartment, took me to see it, and negotiated price for me. I am certain he got a cut of what I paid (even though he was boasting to me about his honesty and telling me how much I can trust him, that he wanted to treat me like his own daughter), but he still helped me out tremendously and I am very happy with my place, so it all worked out. The building is occupied by all Indian families and living there has definitely given me insight to the normal functioning of Indian family life. Especially because the family of the building manager has completely taken me under their wing and takes care of me like I am a family member too! They bring me dinner every night, which I did not expect when I moved in. The first day, when I did not finish all my dinner and said I would take it for lunch, they insisted that if I were going to take food for lunch, that I take fresh rice that they would cook in the morning! I protested but they insisted that they cook for their husbands and the school children at that hour anyway, so that they would just add me on. So now every morning, I stop by their apartment at 6:30 to pick up freshly cooked food packed for me in a little tin. They also do my laundry and come and clean my apartment once a week. I did not expect any of this, but am very thankful. I am most thankful for their sincerity, care, and attention. It is nice to come home and have them care that I am home safe, and care if I have eaten or not. I know you all at home care about me, but in your absence, it is great to come home to smiling faces who care about me daily all the way over here! Most of the women in the building stay home all day and take care of the small children and their houses (which are immaculate). They take pride in their work in the home and I think this is why they are happy to also extend their work a little to take care of me. The husbands go off to work around 7 in the morning and do not return til 10, and only have a half-day of rest on Sundays. They are all very hard working people.

Because yoga school is a little distance from my apartment, I take a rickshaw in the morning and take the city bus home to save some money. The bus is a whole adventure in itself. It really is like you have probably seen in movies. The bus is packed full and at least 100 people are also standing squished together in the aisle. Just when you think no one else can fit on, 10 more people get on, and some are even hanging out the door. I rarely get a seat and therefore stand squished among all the others. Luckily, the bus is separated into a woman’s section in the front and men’s in the back, so at least I am usually squished in close to women and the men can not try to touch me! I am the only foreigner on the bus every day, and all 200+ people on the bus notice me and usually stare at me. The bus takes about 30 minutes; I usually look out the window and study the people on motorbikes. Motorbikes are very common here. I am always amazed to see complete families riding on one bike (I have now seen families of 4 and 5 on one bike). I am also amazed to see the women in the beautiful clothing riding calmly on the back of a bike with their husband, often not touching the man (since that is slightly looked down upon). I have no idea how they stay on and how they seem so calm throughout the noise and chaos of the traffic. This is just one of many examples of how Indian people practice yogic ideas of not letting the outside world disturb the peace and calmness they feel inside. Also, I see many women riding motorbikes on their own. They always look so cool and strong to me, I only wish I could be brave enough to ride like them even back in my own city where the traffic is not nearly as bad!

What else? Well, I have an official return date now of April 10^th. I extended my ticket slightly mainly so I could go and work with a Dr. in the north who is doing work with yoga and people with HIV/AIDS. I will spend a week or so with him. I have no idea if I will volunteer or just observe, but he has welcomed me to come and I am open for anything. It seems like an incredible opportunity and very full circle, especially since when I started practicing yoga 7 years ago, it was with people living with HIV/AIDS back during my internship at AIDSCare in Chicago. Before I go to the Dr. I want to get into the Himalayas. I feel a strong desire to be near the mountains and to have some time in nature. I don’t mean to have expectations, but I am craving a peaceful walk in a forest! I desperately miss the peace and nature of the lake and forest at home. I might also go to Darmasala; the Dali Lama is doing teachings there in March that I could possibly attend. I am excited about the extra time here but a part of me is also getting tired and starting to get excited to come home. I miss you all and many aspects of my life at home. This trip has really made me realize many of the things I love about home and I know I will have a deeper appreciation for them when I return. At the same time, then I will probably be desperately missing many things about India!