Italia, Belissimo Italia

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Ah, I've entered the land of excellent food, beautiful views and good wine. It's also so nice to be in a place where I can actually sort of speak, understand and read a little of the language. I know just enough Italian to get into trouble (and hopefully out of it), order food, get prices, buy tickets and reserve rooms. My problem is that when I start in my mediocre Italian, I get longwinded answers back that I don't understand, but at least I'm trying. I realized today that Italy is the country that I've visited most in my life, which strikes me as strange since I speak French, but this is my 3rd visit here in the last 13 years, and the 2nd in 2 years -- having come for Christmas 2 years ago with the family.

I have enjoyed the food more than anything. I had a three-course dinner for 15 Euros in Assisi 2 days ago that was just lovely, including a 1/4 carafe of red house wine that was to die for. Assisi, for all you fallen Catholic friends out there would frighten you a little with its profilferation of churches and duomos, monks and friars and nuns. Home of St. Francis and Ste. Clara it remains a religious pilgrimmage site, but has wonderful artwork in the churches my famous painters like Cimabue and Giotto. I still don't understand why in this day and age all the reliquary items, like St. Francis's cowl and hair still maintains a signigicance to people and are recognized by the church since 95% of them must be fake OK Catholics I need a response here).

Both Assisi and Perugia are beautiful medieval hills towns and remain intact although the towns have grown into the valleys surrounding them. I sat and watched the Italy and Croatia game today and saw the Italians slink away in humilating defeat. World Cup fever has taken over here. The David Beckham hairdo is spreading as well as I saw one of the boys who worked at the restaurant had it (without the bleached blond top). Even on CNN, I can barely get news of the NBA. I checked myself into a ridiculously expensive hotel because I was so tired of wandering around yesteday with my ever-heavier pack and made sure they had a TV. I set my alarm for 3am to see if the Lakers game was on because usually the Italians like basketball and of course, no go -- World Cup action or Larry King Live on the Michael Skakel trial results (Ugh). Anyway I now know what's going on in the US thanks to BBC World and CNN World, but it's not any more interesting than when I left.

Tomorrow Florence. Ciao, Elizabeth