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On the road again...

From Marc's Watson Fellowship in Sevilla, Spain on Jan 03 '07

Marc s Watson Year has visited no places in Sevilla
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Today was one of those days where everything kind of went wrong.  I mean, it's traveling, it's bound to happen, but still... not fun when it does.

First of all, I spent an uneventful few days in Cordoba with some kid named Josh from Minnesota.  We more or less wandered the streets, saw the big cathedral (big), the old alcazar (old), and the crumbling synagogue (crumbling).  I actually ran into a Jewish couple from New Jersey while I was in the synagogue, and we chatted for awhile.

It's weird because there's a sort of hierarchy when it comes to meeting people you can relate to.  At the very bottom level, there's someone who speaks English.  In countries that don't speak English, particularly those that don't even speak a language you know, this can be very satisfying.  Then there's American English-speaker, because the accent and the culture has sort of a relaxing effect after a long time away from it.  This is the person you can trade "Old School" quotes with and possibly have a few Facebook friends in common.  And finally there's the elusive New York American English-speaker, with whom you can speak in an impenetrable code ("It's on 22nd and 3rd.  Take the FDR and dump out on 26th.  It's after the Holland but before the George...") and feel a true kinship with.

Anyway, so that was Cordoba.  Today was a struggle to be sure.  Two hours on the bus here, then I got dropped off at the bus station with no real idea of where I was heading and all that stuff to carry along the cobblestone streets.  About an hour of walking later, I finally found Pension Vergara, which I then found out had been closed for months.  Incidentally, if you're thinking of buying a Let's Go guide, don't.

With much difficulty, I stumbled into the Hostal Buen Dormir (literally, "Hostel Good Sleep."  Creative, I know...) and set up camp.  It was downhill from there.  Couldn't find an internet place, couldn't find a place that could fix my watch strap.  Couldn't find the American pub that a friend of mine who studied here abroad had recommended.  Got hopelessly lost in the twisting and winding streets.  Got a headache.  Got frustrated.  Almost got run over by a Moped.  It would have been a Snickers-worthy day if I had been able to find somewhere that sold them.

I think the problem I'm having with Spain--at least the south of it so far--is that each city is exactly the same.  Once you've seen the alcazar at the Alhambra, it's hard to get excited about the alcazar in Sevilla.  A cathedral is a cathedral is a cathedral, and I can't really appreciate the differences between one cobblestone alleyway and the thousands that came before it hundreds of miles away.

Anyway, shabbat tomorrow (if I can find the synagogue).  The address I have for it isn't on my map, so this ought to be interesting.  Also checking out of the Buen Dormir and into what seems to be a much more lively backpackers tomorrow, if I can squeeze my way in there.  Maybe this will be another case of Casablanca/Rabat, and all I need is a good night's rest to sort things out.  I am, after all, in the Hostel Good Sleep, so it shouldn't be a problem.


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