Cascada de las Animas

Before the Descent
see all photos »

Cascade of the Spirit or Waterfall of the Spirit is the literal translation for Cascada de las Animas. How lovely and how much a departure from all of our city dwellings.

We arrived early afternoon and checked into our room at the hostel. Ours was the only room on the second level and had a huge balcony that looked out into the vast sky and beyond to the mountains. Absolutely ravenous, we walked the few blocks back to Cascada to check out the restaurant and were pleasantly surprised. We had sammies that included fresh greens, tomatoes and homemade bread. Afterwards we headed off for a dip in the spring-fed pool (brrr!!) and to absorb a little sunshine before it dropped behind the mountains for the night. The water was crystal clear and beautiful. Back at the hostel, we unpacked and sat outside for awhile before heading back to hike around the grounds a bit and grab dinner at the restaurant. The place is tree covered, thoughtfully laid out and welcoming. We hiked up to a mirador (view point) accompanied by two of the dogs roaming around Cascada. They showed us the best route up and down and sat nearby as we contemplated the loveliness.

Self Portrait - Cascada de las Animas
see all photos »

We ambled back down the hill and set off for the restaurant for a beer overlooking the river before we filled our bellies with Thai Salmon & veggies and delightful spinach raviolis. A Canadian/Australian couple chatted us up a bit, introduced themselves and made a tentative date for midnight as there was to be dancing to reggaetron (?) into the wee hours. Turning up a little after twelve, the music was bumping but the place was not. We joined Chris & Danielle at a table for a rum & coke and hot chocolate, talked about our trips, home and wine, decided the party was not ever going to get started, bid them adieu and headed back to the hostel a little before 2am.

Self Portrait - Todd in Glass with Dog
see all photos »

Waking a little later than expected, we had a hurried breakfast and ran off to Cascada for a ten o'clock hike to the waterfalls. As usual, we were about fifteen minutes late and the group had already gone. There would be another hike at noon.

The hike up was hot and gorgeous. The terrain is varied with cactus, evergreens, flowers in bloom and mountain streams. All of the water at Cascada is supplied by runoff from the mountains - clean and clear. The falls were awe-inspiring and there was a leisurely stop for a half hour or so to enjoy the beauty and the cool water. Aiming to get back for a rafting trip at 2pm, we rushed to the front of the group and crossed the bridge without waiting for the guide. We stopped in to let them know we would be back in fifteen minutes and booked it to the hostel to put on suits, make a sammie for the road and guzzle some water. Fortunately, we were not the latest for the rafting trek, although, once again, we were the oldest amongst the group. :)

Mountain Spring-fed Pool
see all photos »

They gathered us around for the safety talk and my heart began to pound a bit when they reached the part about tumbling into the river and how to react properly. Lots of details. Lots to think about. Would I remember if I was the one?! We donned wetsuits (sexy!), windbreakers, lifevests and helmets and loaded the bus that took us to the starting point. Here we were broken into two groups of six and Todd and I were sent off with four young German friends. Simon was to be our fearless leader and he began showing us the ropes. Forward! Back! More power! Left side Ho! Get Down! We practiced for ten minutes or so and I must admit to not being confident in the abilities of our fellow groupees. One girl in particular seemed a little, well, wimpy. The group lugged the raft down to the waters edge, boarded in position with Todd and the German guy up front, the four ladies in the mid-section and Simon at the helm. Forward! How exhilarating and frightening all at the same time! I held my space solidly, determined not to go overboard. Todd was great as the leading rower, only sometimes diverted by trying to snap a few pics with the water-proof camera. The team actually worked well together and held up to even the monster rapids. Up Paddle! (This is where we all hold our paddles together and whoop it up after making it through a rough spot.) As an aside, I think there must be a requirement of outdoorsy hotness to become a rafting guide. About an hour later, we paddled to shore and disembarked from that particular journey. I felt accomplished for doing something we had never done before and for conquering fear at the same time. Oh, and the fact that none of our group tumbled into the river (unless it was on purpose). Up Paddle!

Self Portrait - Mirador on Cascada grounds
see all photos »

Exhausted from the hike and rafting, we took our dirty selves back to the hostel, showered, rested and headed to the sauna for the massages we had booked. Divine. We emerged an hour later with an oily blissful afterglow and agreed that it had been the best massage we had ever had. Floating towards the restaurant, it became apparent what a quiet night it was at Cascada and we were one of two tables for dinner. Food and wine were welcome friends. We marveled at the clear, starry skies from our balcony before falling into bed after such an invigorating day.

Our First Dinner at Cascada
see all photos »

Rodrigo and Ingrid were our hosts at the hostel and made a lovely breakfast each morning. We slept in and ate late before our horse (cabalgata) trip at 2pm. Our guide spoke only Spanish and even then, was a man of few words. Both being horse novices, it took a little time before getting comfortable in the commanding position. Mine tended to lag behind until I understood that I wasn't going hurt him with a little kick and a "vamos!". We trekked our way up to the meseta, a full on prairie/plain at the top of a small mountain. It was quite enchanting - green fields, grazing animals and a forever view. This time the sense of accomplishment came too soon as the trek back down was treacherous and much more difficult for the horses. Todd's steed was being completely uncooperative and wanted to stop often to take pressure off of his fore legs from the uncomfortable ride down. Sensing my concern for Todd and my fear of plummeting off the edge, our guide offered to pull my horse. This seemed to work better and I spent the time keeping an eye on Todd and reassuring my horse. We, of course, made it down safely and thanked our guide profusely for ensuring we did so. Although a wonderful overall experience, I think we will keep future horse treks to beaches and other flat terrain.

Wheelbarrow
see all photos »

Back at the hostel, we cleaned up, rested and had sammies before our trip to Las Colinas Thermas, a natural hot springs up in the mountains a good hour plus beyond Cascada. Rodrigo serenaded us with his guitar playing and singing while we waited for our ride and washed down the tortas de jamon y queso con una cerveza fria. We set out for the thermals around 7:30 and survived the windy, rough earthen roads to arrive a little after 9pm. We had the place to ourselves aside from two chatty Chilean locals. It will be virtually impossible to describe the beauty of sitting in a natural hot bath with the one you love underneath a cloudless starry sky and an almost-full moon surrounded by snow-capped mountains and crisp, clean air. Oh, yes, and not forgetting the bottle of wine. Perfecto! We soaked for an hour and a half before heading back to the van to wake Patricio for the ride back. We eased our relaxed bodies into the seats and rode home in silence.

Maipo RIver
see all photos »

Our time at Cascada de las Animas has been an incredible experience and good for our body, mind and spirit. Juan picked us up at the hostel at 2pm to deliver us to the bus station in Santiago in seemingly serendipitous time to purchase our tickets to Valparaiso and board the bus that left five minutes later.