Abu Simbel

Abu Simbel is the temple with the four colossal seated figures that was carved into the cliffs overlooking the Nile in southern Egypt. You know the one. When the High Dam was built to control the flooding of the Nile each year, Abu Simbel would have been under the water behind the dam. UNESCO organized an international effort to save this temple and 23 others. The temple was carefully cut into blockes and reassembled 100 meters up the hill side, where it now stands overlooking Lake Nasser. It is reassuring, given recent events, to know that international coalitions can be mobilized for such positive purposes as preserving cultural artifacts.

This is one of the sites I was really looking forward to visiting, as much for the marvel of engineering required to move it as for the original beauty of the temple itself. Well, I was even more impressed with the modern engineering after seeing the size of the temple and the seamlessness of the reconstruction. As false hill was even built around the temple to recreate the original appearance of the surrounding cliff. Truly a marvel of modern engineering. (Yay engineers!)

Unfortunately, I was less impressed by my visit into the temple itself. First, this is an incredibly popular site (up to 5000 visitors per day) and the place was packed. Second, I doubt that future generations will be able to visit at all if the behavior of my follow visitors was representative - climbing on the statues, leaning against the walls, touching the 3000-year-old wall paintings. I was so perturbed by all the flash photography (while the guards constantly shouted 'No flash!') that I had trouble concentrating on the artwork.

If you go, it is possible to visit Abu Simbel as part of an overnight cruise on Lake Nasser and you will have the chance to visit the temple before the planes arrive in the morning or after the last planes leave in the afternoon. Apparently, the temple retains its majesty and magic when viewed without the throngs. I hope so.

Photo Album: Upper Egypt

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