Athens and the Islands

Poros, Greece
see all photos »

July 10^th was a long day of travel over continental Europe. From my window seat on the plane, I viewed the famous places I would be visiting in the near future: the majestic Alps, Venice and mainland Greece. I have always had a fascination with Ancient History, particularly Greek history. During my previous semester at school, I had filled my last elective with a course on Greek history as a buildup to my trip. Unlike many backpackers I had little desire to go Island hopping throughout the Mediterranean (I’ll save that for my next visit) but was looking forward to visiting the mainland historical sites. While planning my trip I found a tour offering the best of Greece. Despite my new found fondness of solitary travel, I was looking forward to having some company as well as having all travel, accommodation and meal arrangements planned for me. I landed in Greece early in the evening and some how managed to explain to a bus driver where I was headed, in my rather pathetic attempt at the Greek language. An hour later I was dropped off at the front of my hotel – a four star gem. After my student accommodation in London this was a site for sore eyes. I also met my roommate for the duration of my Greek tour. Sara and I got along the instant we met and I believe it’s safe to say we both had a blast in Greece.

Chapel of Saint Nicholas, Aegina, Greece
see all photos »

Because of my evening arrival in Athens, I had not yet met the rest of my tour mates. They had been away on a Greek Dinner show when I had arrived. Therefore, as I headed down to breakfast the next morning I was also gearing up to meet my travel companions. I was one of the youngest of the group. Only two others traveling with their parents were younger than me. As I helped myself to the buffet breakfast I was greeted by one of the tour group with a big ‘congratulations’. Apparently they had enjoyed my performance the night before! This came as quite a shock considering I could not recall performing for anyone…I’m certain such a detail would not have slipped my mind. Brushing aside this interesting encounter I moved to an empty table to enjoy my feast. Suddenly a second member of the tour group approached me with a grin on his face. He told me he liked my dancing and thought it was kind of me to join them for breakfast. Now I was really confused. I grew up dancing but could not figure out how any of the people here would have known that and why was my presence at breakfast a big deal? When this individual’s wife came over to me, the look on her face was less jovial than her husband’s. She also noticed the perplexed look on my face. When the air of confusion spread to the gentlemen, he asked if I was the performer from the night before. Still unable to recall myself dancing for anyone the previous evening, I answered no. It turned out that the tour guests were entertained by a belly dancer at the dinner show the previous evening. Apparently I bore a striking resemblance to the dancer and thus the confusion. I was ensured that I should be flattered by the comparison, and I continue to chuckle to myself over the mix up whenever I see a belly dancer.

I loved Greece from that day on.

Mule on the island of Aegina
see all photos »

That day was a memorable one as I embarked on a three island tour. I boarded the boat early in the morning and found a spot on the top deck, front and centre. I was alone for a while as I sat looking over the massive city of Athens. The port at Piraeus is a smoggy expanse of development. The busiest port near Athens, throngs of tourists crowd the docks awaiting their boats to the Aegean Sea. My solitude was quickly shattered when others joined me on my top deck paradise as we departed the mainland. Pictures do not adequately convey the serene blue of Greek waters. We made our way to the tiny island of Poros; just a stones throw away from the mainland Peloponnese. I walked through the narrow streets of Poros happy to explore this new culture. The people struck as much more friendly than those in London, although their motives were somewhat obvious. As I walked up a set of steep stairs, shopkeepers guided me into their stores with a gentle push on my back. I declined their offers of sale as politely as I could and made my way up to the top of the Island and the famous clock tower perched on a cliff overlooking the sea. It was a breathtaking introduction to the country. With the blue water lapping at the harbour side and the white buildings covering the hills, it was everything the postcards of Greece tempt us with.

Parthenon
see all photos »

On our way to Hydra, my favourite island of the day, we were fed a Greek feast. Following our salad, they placed a large plate in front of each of us filled with various tasters of Greek cuisine: Ntolmades – vine leaves stuffed with currants, pine nuts and rice, musakas – fried eggplant and potato slices, minced meat and a savory sauce layered like lasagna, keftedes – a meatball type dish made with pork and fried in olive oil and other specialties. I managed to fill myself on these delights without realizing that this was just the first course. Soon our empty plates were replaced with a lamb dish with the dessert followed quickly behind. Upon arriving at Hydra I was stuffed. It was now mid-day and the temperatures topping 40 degrees Celsius. With my full belly I began to explore the island’s fortresses and marveled at the mules awaiting their use. There are no motorized vehicles on the island and citizens use mules for transport up the islands steep hills. As much as I loved walking the streets of Poros, that was nothing compared to this island. Turning down narrow alleys one was greeted every so often by statues, and intimate memorials. Shopkeepers made every effort to entice visitors into their stores with the promise of cold water and air conditioning. I had never felt heat so intense in my life. Although sad to be leaving this little slice of paradise, I boarded our boat thankful for some shade.

Erechtheion
see all photos »

The last stop of our tour was Aegina, the largest producer of pistachio nuts in Greece. Aegina is the most developed island we visited. I found my way to one of the many busy beaches and strolled through the warm waters of the sea. I marveled at the restaurants littering the water front, with their kitchens tucked away across the street. Hosts ran back and forth between the kitchen and the water front dining area in order to feed their guests. Octopi hung from long polls awaiting their date with the BBQ. Although not as picturesque as the other two islands, I enjoyed Aegina immensely. On our return to Athens I sat at the side of the boat watching the blue water pass beneath us. Two dolphins appeared in the distance hopping in and out of the water at a great speed. I loved Greece from that day on.

Corinth Canal
see all photos »

The next day was equally as memorable as I toured the famous Acropolis. Having studied Greek history a few times in the past, I was well aware of the famous monuments overlooking the city of Athens. It was with great shock that I ventured up the acropolis and noticed that the Temple of Athena Nike was missing. The temple was built around 426 BC to commemorate the Athenian victory over Persia. It has been rebuilt several times in the past, and the diminutive structure was once again being rebuilt in 2004. I learned that all structures on the acropolis were undergoing extensive renovations and the entire site was littered with scaffolding.

Epidauros
see all photos »

As one finds their way to the top of Athens the massive Parthenon commands all attention. Construction was completed in 438 BC when the temple was dedicated to the Goddess Athena. It was built to house a colossal statue of Athena made of gold and ivory. The temple has been for a variety of purposes including a mosque, church and an arsenal by the Turks. Given the renovation project underway, not all of the famous columns were standing. Many had been taken apart, piece by piece, and littered the area surrounding the temple. Its reconstruction has been described as a giant jigsaw puzzle that will take up to 10 years to complete.

The museum behind the Parthenon was filled to capacity with tourists attempting to get out of the intense heat. The small building houses three of the famous caryatid columns of the Erechtheion, the ornate temple adjacent to the Parthenon. The fourth caryatid is housed in the British Museum in London along with the Elgin marbles that once adorned the Parthenon. The structure was built on the site where Poseidon was said to have left his trident marks on a rock and where the Goddess Athena’s olive tree grew when the two fought for possession of the great city. Athena won the battle, thus the name of the city -‘Athens’. The Erechtheion is a beautiful building. Replicas of the caryatids stand in place of the originals and give the building its unique and memorable appeal.

That afternoon we left Athens for the Peloponnese, technically an island since the construction of the Corinth Canal in 1882. The canal itself is a site to see with its turquoise waterway slicing mainland Greece into two. After a delicious lunch at an outdoor café (Greek spaghetti is wonderful with an insane amount of cheese melted over top!), we continued on to the Sanctuary of Epidaurus. This was a large therapeutic and religious centre from the 6^th century BC to the 2^nd century AD. The highlight of the site is the massive 14,000 seat theatre built in the 4^th century BC known for its near-perfect acoustics. From the top of the theatre one can hear a performer clearly from their place on the stage. Standing at the place of the centre alter stone, you can hear your own voice echo back to you in a strange demonstration of the brilliance of ancient engineers. A wonder around the theatre and you are truly immersed in Greek history. With little modern development anywhere near the site you can truly imagine what a remarkable place this would have been to visit centuries ago.