Western United States & Canada

After 3 months apart, a California tanned Nen and a rather paler Sam were very happy and excited to be reunited across a crowded LA airport. This was of course after Sam had undergone serious LAPD style questioning from the strict US customs folk - "whaat were you doin in Thailaand maam?! Did you coornsuume aany naarcortics?! Aare you bringin in errny foreign plaaaant based produucts?" ("erm do Tetley teabags count officer?!")

We got the bus down the 6 lane highway to the Disneyland hotel (and were shocked to discover that our speedy progress was due to the fact that our bus was about the only vehicle using the dedicated carpooling lane! - with 99.5% of all vehicles containing only one person!) where we were met by our very kind relative Gillian who took us back to her home town of Irvine in Orange County.  Sam knew she was in California - the land of choice - straight away as we swung by the local drive in malls to pick up an apple pie (one of over 30 varieties) and a 'blend your own' ice cream with over 3000 possible combinations - talk about no room for indecision!  This very American dessert was the finale for a delicious and typically Mexican meal of tacitos at the home of Steve and Ange and their golden lab Genie - a fab introduction to the broad fusion that is Western US cuisine and culture.

Had a great time with Gillian, her husband Robin, daughters Caroline and Sarah and their 3 cats (Sam, Harley and Scooter).  Sam enjoyed the warmth of the Cali sun during a daytime stroll round the plushly landscaped suburbs, while Nen preferred the refreshing sea breeze when the Bradshaw gang took us for dinner to their fave pizza restaurant in nearby Laguna Beach.  A whirlwind day in LA followed - probably the most pedestrian hating city in the world! - but we just about made it without being squashed by a stretch hummer! In the morning Sam and Nen explored the pretty Santa Monica Pier and shopping boulevards, before catching up with lots of Nen's friends from camp who gave us an insider’s whistle-stop tour of the sights - the Hollywood hills sign, Hollywood Boulevard, the walk of stars and the Chinese Theatre, Rodeo Drive and the glam tree-lined streets of exclusive Beverly Hills (one of the crowd actually lives in the real 90210!) 

All too soon it was time to leave the OC and head on the train south to San Diego, which is 30 minutes from the US border with Mexico at Tijuana. San Diego was a city we loved from the start.  We stayed out in a cute little hostel by Ocean Beach and explored thoroughly, from the newly restored historic Gaslamp Quarter to the gorgeous green expanse and historic buildings of Balboa Park and vintage shopping in funky Hillcrest. A great day was spent at the famous San Diego Zoo, where we came face to face with a panda and her cub, hippo’s basking, giraffes feeding and our absolute faves – polar bears swimming under water – magic. Later, we were taken back to our student days but with an American College twist when we played ‘Beer pong’ with more of the Camp crew – if you manage to land a ping pong ball into a plastic cup then your opposition have to drink contents of said cup! – genius!

Sad to leave San Diego but incredibly excited to fly into Las Vegas, we knew we’d arrived, after a rollercoaster of a landing, when the airport lounge was jam packed with slot machines!  We rocked up at our hotel, Circus Circus, at 8pm to learn a famous American equation – [Vegas + Labour Day weekend = CHAOS!] – Free circus acts 24/7 added to the melee! – kids everywhere! O well, our room was a tranquil haven from the madness and we certainly weren’t complaining as CC was cheaper than most of the hostels we'd stayed in!  Time for a quick change and out to explore the Strip.  True to form the lights were bright, the pavements crowded and the warm desert winds were blowing – awesome to be there.

Vegas was slightly more sedate by day, but not by much. The city of choice and indulgence, its packed with malls, restaurants and bars. We spent many a happy hour exploring the cavernous interiors of the Strip’s hotel and casino complexes, each themed to within and inch of their lives! - ‘Paris’ boasting its own Eiffel Tower, ‘The Venetian’ – complete with Grand Canal and ‘Luxor’ – a huge glass pyramid construction plus sphinx! But of course our fave had to be ‘New York New York’ where we sat and had coffee on the sidewalk of miniature Greenwich Village, complete with its own trees, streetlights, ¾ size brownstone steps, and mock traffic lights – surreal!

We had to be up at stupid o’clock for our mega-tourist bus tour to the Grand Canyon – a 15 hour day but so worth it! On the way we stopped briefly at the vast Hoover Dam, then passed the miles to the South Rim watching films featuring the iconic Dam and Canyon. As we neared the Canyon, it was time for one of the highlights of our whole year – our first helicopter flight. And what a first! – a birds eye view of one of the natural wonders of the world. We took off over sparse bush trying to spot bear, deer or elk, then swept low through the endless red and winding canyon valleys and sculpted stacks of rocks, as the Colorado River glistened and snaked along the canyon floor. Sam was fortunate enough to sit up front by the pilot and the scale and beauty of this wild place was totally overwhelming - brought a tear to the eye.

The flight was over all too quickly so we made the short journey to stand at the edge of the South Rim. With the sun blazing down, against the azure blue of the sky, the russet curves of the canyon really came alive. We trekked a little way down the steep narrow trail towards the Canyon floor. We learned that this is the same route trodden today and for decades before by mule trains taking thousands of tourists the 8hour journey to the bottom. All this just helped to add to the sense of amazement at the vastness, age and raw unexplored wilderness of this most famous of nature’s creations.

Back in Vegas, a man made wonder was the Freemont Street experience, a street enclosed by a vast canopy of moving lights, which every hour puts on multi-sensory shows with the lights making up giant graphics to illustrate iconic Americana tunes. We ended our stay in Vegas in style, seeing a live show at the opulent Mandalay Bay Casino – we chose Mamma Mia so were still humming the Abba sound track on our way back down the strip. Our night ended on a high as we timed it right for the renowned Bellagio fountains display, which are just beautiful all lit up and synchronised stirring symphonies or bombastic dance.

From Vegas we flew to baking Bakersfield (you could see the heat rising off the land), the nearest town to Nen’s summer camp, where we met some of her friends for a marathon Mexican lunch. After which we melted back into the car with Natalie, another Camp Counsellor, for the winding drive up to Jameson Ranch Camp’s 5000m elevation in the hills bordering the Seqouia National Forest. And what a warm welcome we got! Mia Jameson and her two girls had created a gorgeous birthday BBQ for Nat and we were all spoilt with Mia’s famous cooking. It was great for Sam to meet and spend time with all the camp crew who she’d heard so much about and see for herself why Nen found this place so special. Run by the Jameson family for over 40 years, the camp is almost entirely self sufficient with hand built sleep out shelters, barns and even its own lake. Somewhat quieter than the last time Nen was there, it was great to visit the outdoor drama stage, rope swing, dairy, vege garden and open air dorms which had weeks earlier been the scenes of so many laughs and stories.

Loathe to move on with so much to do and see around Camp, we nevertheless managed to persuade Nat to come camping with us in the Yosemite Valley National Park. And, as the heat of Bakersfield gave way to relative cool and green, I think she was glad she did. After a couple of hours drive, we reached the Park’s border, but it was another hour and a half of winding through dense pine forest before we found ourselves at our camp site. Nestled in the heart of the Yosemite Valley, right at the foot of the soaring granite cliffs which helped to make it famous, this is a truly special place. We were somewhat preoccupied however, by the bear warning signs which were prominently displayed on every surface. We duly stored our food, and any of our belongings which may have had a scent attached, in the gruesome looking bear-proof locker. It was just a shame that our tent didn’t look quite so bear proof!, with one entirely open side (open invite more like!). Needless to say that it was rather an interrupted nights sleep with our hearts racing at the slightest rustle or clatter (a bear had been sighted in the camp down the road just the night before – eek!)

A top tip from one of the park rangers, saw us onto one of the most beautiful walks we could imagine – to Dewey Point. Singing of Camp songs along the forest trails gave way to sharp intakes of breath as we found ourselves on a ridge where the Yosemite landscape suddenly opened out before us. We picnicked on the edge of the ravine as the lush valley wound out below us, presided over by the imposing Half Dome rock. Climbers on the sheer face of famous El Capitane looked like tiny ants and the majesty, scale and unspoilt beauty of the place really enveloped us. We’d only been going for 5 minutes on the way back when our haze of appreciation evaporated suddenly as we rounded a corner and came face to face (well 15metres away) from a wild black bear!!! Fortunately, after a brief stare out as we froze, it seemed more scared of our chatter, and turned tail and ran. We kept up our ‘Yo Bear!’ calls the whole way back however – apparently bears really don’t like to be surprised!

Our remaining days in Yosemite were spent biking around the valley floor, spotting more of the park’s abundant wildlife at close quarters (thankfully deer, fish and birds have rather less teeth than bears!) and marvelling at more of the stunning viewpoints which pepper every corner of the valley. Luckily our tent cabin for the next couple of nights had four walls and even its own door, which meant we began to really appreciate the pure air and peace of sleeping in the forest (well apart from the odd midnight bear scare!) Our last Yosemite wonder was a visit to see some of the oldest and largest trees in the park – Seqouias - true forest giants, just beautiful. Sad to leave Nat and stunning Yosemite, we hopped on a train for the few hours to take us back to the East Coast and San Francisco baby! Very excited to be there but it was a long haul with our huge and ever growing backpacks up the infamously steep streets to our hostel.

By morning we were revived and ready to explore. Sans-packs we loved spending our days wandering the many different areas which make up San Fran. First up we strolled down bustling Market Street, past the Tram Exchange where the trams cars are famously turned around by hand, to the old Ferry Terminal which is now alive with people enjoying smart, modern restaurants and cafes. Next was Disney-like Pier 39, packed with expensive and rather tacky tourist shops, redeemed by fantastic views of Alcatraz Island, and by being home to a rather special set of residents – the San Fran sealions. Stinky and noisy but totally endearing, these critters jostle for sunbathing space on the piers’ floating jetties and peer back inquisitively at all the camera toting tourists watching them. Back inland and up some more near vertical roads, to famously steep ‘Lombard Street’ – setting for many a movie car chase or action scene. The quirky coffee shops, dog bakeries and boutiques of Union Street led us to Presido Park, where we stumbled upon the beautiful ruins of the Palace of the Arts, before walking along the beachfront which framed views of iconic Golden Gate Bridge. We vowed to return another day to cross the bridge…

And return we did, in our own unique style – on a tandem bike! 2 Woods plus 2 sets of peddles = total comedy! After a fair few spills and thrills we finally got in-sync and wobbled our way across the bridge. Great views looking back towards the city. Back on two feet, we sampled famous Bourdin sourdough and clam chowder in their seaside restaurant, before trekking across town to the picturesque ‘Postcard Row’ – a street of impossibly quaint Victorian houses which perfectly frame the elegant skyscrapers of the modern SF cityscape. Next we were delighted to explore the charming Noe Valley region and funky Mission and Castro districts on our way to the home of a lovely family Nen had met at Camp – the Jacobsens. Rebekah (13) had loved Camp and was excited to show off her home town to Nen. She did a great job as tour guide and guided us amongst the gorgeous wee shops and bakeries of 24^th Street – a window shopper’s dream. A lovely afternoon was finished off by sampling super tasty Mexican and crowned by experiencing the local legend that is’Mitchell’s Ice Cream Shop’ for ourselves – Grasshopper flavour won out overabundant competition – mint choc chip, with brownie and fudge pieces – only in America! - yum!

There’s so much to experience in San Francisco that our wee feet were aching most days and I’m sure we didn’t cover the half of it. The vibrancy, noice and colour the city’s Chinatown reminded us of all the markets we’d explored in Asia, and the delicious aromas wafting from the Italian district of North Beach transported us back to our first backpacker forays in Milan – rude not to stop for a coffee! Talking of being transported back to the days, we were very excited as we were due to meet one of our best friends from home, Sarah, who was over visiting her boyfriend Dan who is studying at Stamford Uni, about and hour out of SF. After a happy reunion at the airport, S and D took us for a fab night time tour of the historic Stamford campus. The next day we had a great road trip with them as a small taster of the West coast section of famous ‘Route 66’, stopping for a lovely stroll along the beach (thanks guys). After Dan definitively thrashed us at backyard basketball (3 against Dan yet still!) and failed in getting us to understand American Football (sorry Dan!), it was time for us to accept defeat and head back to the airport – excited to see our first glimpse of Canada.

And what an experience it was flying into Vancouver – cradled between the sea, snow capped mountains and blue blue sky, the city’s sleek glass apartment buildings, pristine parks and well planned boulevards emit a sense of privilege. Our slow sweeping approach allowed us an aerial view of Vancouver’s balance between the urban and the natural, between its historic routes and modern day achievements – felled logs floating down the waterways meet the million dollar yachts bobbing in the harbour. Smiling and friendly customs officials welcomed us to Canada, a slight difference to LA, and our hostel was a backpacker’s dream – right in the heart of Granville Street surrounded by the buzz of cheap eats, live gigs, and quirky discount stores galore.

With so much to cover in Vancouver, we made a big list of the sights (shock – Wood girls writing lists! – never!) and split it into North and South sections of the city. So the first stop was the waterfront at Burrard Inlet where we watched sea planes skim and land, followed by delightful Stanley Park, a huge green expanse at the Northern tip of VC, where we hired bikes and pedalled along the sea wall, stopping off along the way to admire the incredible carvings and vibrant designs of the traditional totem poles, as well as the beautiful sculptures which periodically punctuate the waters edge. Later we biked into the expansive interior of the park, complete with cultivated forest, lakes and nature reserves. Returning our bikes we again strolled the sea wall, which we shared with myriad joggers, rollerbladers, cyclists and dogwalkers all enjoying the sun and fresh sea air. We headed south this time to beautiful golden beaches, with the most genius Canadian alternative to ugly sun loungers, parasols and windbreaks – logs! – people propped themselves up against, sat on top of, or sheltered alongside giant timbers. Continuing southwards, beaches gave way to pristine marinas, full of desirable waterfront apartments and restaurants, green open parks, and landscaped precincts – more public spaces than any city I’ve seen and all seemingly well used and appreciated by the locals and tourists alike. As we circled back towards our hostel we found a spot in Chinatown for a yum authentic dinner.

The next morning we wandered through the smart loft conversions of traditionally arty Yaletown, before getting the tiniest ‘ferry’ we’ve ever seen (more like a bathtub with an engine!) – very cute, across to Granville Island. Granville is actually a peninsula and is a famous centre for local arts and produce, and a poplar spot for coffee. Great fun exploring the colours and aromas of Granville Public Market, and seeing the work of local art students before marvelling at the Wood gallery with some truly unique pieces carved or constructed from timber. From Granville, we walked through tranquil Vanier Park by the water to upmarket Kitislano, where we browsed the bookshops, delis and home stores. After a long hike across town, we watched the sun set from the view point at Queen Elizabeth Park, which boasts a view to die for back over the city to the sea and mountains beyond.

The next day meant great excitement as we got the bus down to Seattle (only about 3 hours) to catch up with newly married friends we met in Nepal – Jules and Quinn.